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Thread: HDS Systems EDC # 20

  1. #391

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    The reason I ask is because I had a light with a drained cr123 in it. I keep it in my car and last used it several months ago and was pretty sure the battery was about 80%.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    Yes. But it is so small, you will grow old and gray before it kills a battery sitting idle. That has not changed with the low vs high runtime developments - unless it got even better than it was in the older lights.

    Oh, and you can just untwist the head a little and stop even that, if you are so inclined.

    Just know that if you have a half dead rechargeable cell in there, when you re-tighten it you will have done a soft reset, and it might mistake that for new primary cell.

  2. #392

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    FWIW, I've had the same 16340 in my HDS for 6mo to 1yr and periodically test voltage - the parasitic drain has been imperceptible to me. That said, when electronic circuits start to go bad they often start consuming more power/parasitic drain, and some theorize that constantly powered circuits tend wear out faster. But the HDS is covered by one of the best warranties in the business.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    Yes. But it is so small, you will grow old and gray before it kills a battery sitting idle. That has not changed with the low vs high runtime developments - unless it got even better than it was in the older lights.

    Oh, and you can just untwist the head a little and stop even that, if you are so inclined.

    Just know that if you have a half dead rechargeable cell in there, when you re-tighten it you will have done a soft reset, and it might mistake that for new primary cell.
    The HDS electrical path does run through the threads, so at least the circuits in head will be powered up unless you remove the battery, or separate the head from the tube. A partial untwist of the head only breaks the electrical path for the electronic tail clicky circuit (the little brass wire on the inside edge of tube). This allows the electronic clicky to be mechanically locked out without a soft/battery reset when next used.
    Last edited by reppans; 03-09-2018 at 10:15 AM.

  3. #393
    Flashaholic* Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by redryder View Post
    The reason I ask is because I had a light with a drained cr123 in it. I keep it in my car and last used it several months ago and was pretty sure the battery was about 80%.

    Is it a "Legacy" light? Those are the ones that look like the current model with the big stainless bezel, but have the older "V" shaped threads, not the square ACME type threads.

    Those had a big bunch with a bad component that caused this. I had to send mine back to Henry to be fixed, and it is fine now. But of course, that does not mean it is impossible for a newer light to have the same problem.

    Good point on the different current paths, reppans. I thought for about two seconds if the level of drain might be different with the switch locked out, then thought about how small it is and stopped bothering to wonder over it.

  4. #394

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    It actually has the ACME threads. I'll probably put a new battery in it and check in a few months.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    Is it a "Legacy" light? Those are the ones that look like the current model with the big stainless bezel, but have the older "V" shaped threads, not the square ACME type threads.

  5. #395
    Flashaholic* Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Sounds like you may have a problem. The component that went on mine, I want to say a capacitor, should normally have a defect rate of say 1 in 10,000 or whatever. But the batch Henry got when he was building the Legacy lights was more like 1 in 10. But there is no such thing as zero defects in electrical components.

    If you have a RCR123, you can speed it up a bit. Let it rest and get a stable voltage that is not changing day to day, then put it in for a week. It will drop measurably if it is like mine was. That was how I confirmed it before sending mine in. Lost like 0.1 volts in a week, terrible.

  6. #396

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by redryder View Post
    Is any power being used when the light ISN'T on?
    As I understand it, the parasitic drain in HDS lights is less than the natural discharge rate of a battery, which is to say that all other things being equal, a battery in an HDS will discharge at the same rate as one sitting on the shelf.

  7. #397

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Maybe the heat from being in the car and/or possibly defective battery is the cause.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    Sounds like you may have a problem. The component that went on mine, I want to say a capacitor, should normally have a defect rate of say 1 in 10,000 or whatever. But the batch Henry got when he was building the Legacy lights was more like 1 in 10. But there is no such thing as zero defects in electrical components.

    If you have a RCR123, you can speed it up a bit. Let it rest and get a stable voltage that is not changing day to day, then put it in for a week. It will drop measurably if it is like mine was. That was how I confirmed it before sending mine in. Lost like 0.1 volts in a week, terrible.

  8. #398

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    Is it a "Legacy" light? Those are the ones that look like the current model with the big stainless bezel, but have the older "V" shaped threads, not the square ACME type threads.

    Those had a big bunch with a bad component that caused this. I had to send mine back to Henry to be fixed, and it is fine now. But of course, that does not mean it is impossible for a newer light to have the same problem.

    Good point on the different current paths, reppans. I thought for about two seconds if the level of drain might be different with the switch locked out, then thought about how small it is and stopped bothering to wonder over it.
    I was afflicted with the infamous bad capacitor with my first HDS flashlight. I noticed the problem when my battery would drain completely in a few days with minimal use, so it wasn't hard to tell there was something wrong.

  9. #399
    Flashaholic* Lithium466's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    Standard models were only guaranteed to run 30 minutes on high back then.
    Not even! The very first 60 (generally the basic models) were given for 20 min minimum...imagine how far we've come !
    Want DC-fix? PM me!

  10. #400
    Flashaholic* thermal guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    God I remember thinking how nice it was to have 60 lumens for 30 minutes in my HDS.when Fenix came out with there P1D people lost there minds. Lol
    If i had one day left to live i would want to be at my workplace.Because every day is like a frickin eternity.

  11. #401

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by thermal guy View Post
    God I remember thinking how nice it was to have 60 lumens for 30 minutes in my HDS.when Fenix came out with there P1D people lost there minds. Lol
    And 65 lumens was "tactically bright" and 120 "White Scorcher" was just an insane amount of lumens... even though it killed 2 123's in 20 minutes. Now 250 is not bright enough. LOL!
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  12. #402
    Flashaholic* thermal guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Hogokansatsukan View Post
    And 65 lumens was "tactically bright" and 120 "White Scorcher" was just an insane amount of lumens... even though it killed 2 123's in 20 minutes. Now 250 is not bright enough. LOL!
    +100 on that. I on occasion will carry one of my u60 at work and itís more then enough. Smaller in size then hds lights are now as well.
    If i had one day left to live i would want to be at my workplace.Because every day is like a frickin eternity.

  13. #403

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Hogokansatsukan View Post
    And 65 lumens was "tactically bright" and 120 "White Scorcher" was just an insane amount of lumens... even though it killed 2 123's in 20 minutes. Now 250 is not bright enough. LOL!
    Ha ha... my high CRI Rotary is "only" 120 lumens, but it's plenty bright enough for the majority of my needs.

  14. #404

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    I actually had one of the first SF M6 lights. 250 lumens for an hour on 6 123 batteries and 500 lumens for 20 minutes with the other bulb. I remember thinking how insane that much light was... and how insane the cost of batteries was. There was no "constant output" either. The incan just dropped the second you hit the switch... until it couldn't drive the bulb anymore or the bulb blew (which was about every 10 hours of use). We have come a long way from that.
    I find my 200 lumen High Noon and 3 O'clock High are plenty bright enough for what I use a flashlight for. My 120 Novatac is still plenty bright enough.
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  15. #405
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Is it possible to buy MPCB board for led separately? And is it possible to buy flashlight without that glue on MPCB board?


  16. #406
    Flashaholic* Lithium466's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    I wish we could buy the MPCB separately !

    As for the glue, itís very easy to remove...and I doubt HDS will sell lights without it, but really really easy to temove so really no prb.
    Want DC-fix? PM me!

  17. #407

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Romanko View Post
    Is it possible to buy MPCB board for led separately? And is it possible to buy flashlight without that glue on MPCB board?
    That glue is like rubbery silicone stuff and comes off really easily. Lightly scrape it away from the screws and edge of the PCB to desolder it.
    That looks just like my orange clicky that had the XPG 200 lumen, it now has a 219B sw45k R9080.
    Whatever 3535 sized LED you go for it's well worth the upgrade and not that tricky.

  18. #408

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    So I have an HDS EDC Ultimate 60 XR and I want to have upgraded. I either want it to closely resemble an incandescent light with an extremely warm tint... or I want it to have a much better throw like my LX2 Lumamax. Ive heard that upgrading the emitter to a Seoul P4 (I think) is a good choice but I'm not sure if thats going to have the effect that I want. Is there a way to have a better runtime too? Does anyone have any experience with this? And if so, can you tell me people that I can contact to help with this? I'm not new to HDS but I am new to flashlight modding...

  19. #409

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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    No message.
    Last edited by RCS1300; 03-12-2018 at 12:23 PM.

  20. #410
    Flashaholic* Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    The Seoul P4 is a direct drop-in for the Luxeon III you have now. Because the heat sink is anodized, you don't need to worry about insulating the bottom of the LED, which would otherwise cause a short. You may like one of the HCRI versions if you can find it, but I have not seen them in particularly warm CCT. Mine is fairly neutral, maybe 4500 - 5000k.

    As far as runtime goes, it won't change for any given level, but because it is brighter, you can program lower levels to your presets for the same tasks, and then your runtime goes up.

  21. #411

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Will Henry release a single AA HDS light?

  22. #412

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by gurdygurds View Post
    Will Henry release a single AA HDS light?
    +1

  23. #413

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    The Seoul P4 is a direct drop-in for the Luxeon III you have now. Because the heat sink is anodized, you don't need to worry about insulating the bottom of the LED, which would otherwise cause a short. You may like one of the HCRI versions if you can find it, but I have not seen them in particularly warm CCT. Mine is fairly neutral, maybe 4500 - 5000k.

    As far as runtime goes, it won't change for any given level, but because it is brighter, you can program lower levels to your presets for the same tasks, and then your runtime goes up.
    Thanks Hondo. Looks like the Seoul P4 is what Iím after. Do you know of anyone who can do this for me?

  24. #414

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by gurdygurds View Post
    Will Henry release a single AA HDS light?
    The problem with a single AA is that an alkaline or nickel metal hydride battery will not run the current electronics, so a completely new power supply (electronics) would have to be developed for it to work. A 14500 lithium could run it, but what good is that if you can't use other single AA size batteries.
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  25. #415

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by gurdygurds View Post
    Will Henry release a single AA HDS light?
    That'd be great.

  26. #416

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    Quote Originally Posted by Hogokansatsukan View Post
    The problem with a single AA is that an alkaline or nickel metal hydride battery will not run the current electronics, so a completely new power supply (electronics) would have to be developed for it to work. A 14500 lithium could run it, but what good is that if you can't use other single AA size batteries.
    While it seems unlikely Henry will develope a new driver, other than firmware updates and minor hardware tweaks to his existing driver, I'd really like to see a single AA powered driver.
    A single AA (~2V max.) high CRI clicky would be the ultimate HDS for me. I do however realise that I'm likely well in the minority here.

  27. #417

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    I'd be in for that. I love being able to use a (more) common battery.

  28. #418
    Flashaholic* Grijon's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    So we know how damage-resistant an HDS is due to extensive testing courtesy of our Hogo, and accidents including industrial mining situations and house fires.

    And we know that the lights are built for maximum durability with ACME threads and masterful design features that allow the LED and electronics to last for nigh on forever.

    My hope for discussion with owners: What's the closest you've come to wearing out an EDC? What part of the light is/was the most worn? How long have you had the light?

    And a side question: How many years (aging) and how many clicks (use) is a rotary's McClicky good for?


    PS
    I'm very pleased to announce that I've received my first HDS (via private sale), and am very very happy with it!

  29. #419
    Flashaholic* thermal guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    I wore the threads out on my 70TR twisty. Not that anyone now has to worry about that as they are no longer made but took 5 years and many many fun filled trips to do it. It is currently in the hands of my machine shop to see what can be done.
    If i had one day left to live i would want to be at my workplace.Because every day is like a frickin eternity.

  30. #420
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC # 20

    I would think other than boots and maybe an o-ring now and then, you'd be good to go with the current offerings. Maybe, eventually, a switch?

    Edit- I have replaced boots on a few lights, HDS clicky included. All were after several years of hard use. Only one actually split, the rest were worn smooth and replaced "early" to avoid the splitting...
    Last edited by scout24; 03-13-2018 at 06:26 AM.
    "Rage, rage against the dying of the light..."

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