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Thread: Mr. Bulk Update

  1. #1

    Default Mr. Bulk Update

    Recently picked up a lot of Mr.Bulk parts, and added a 18650 to it. The light had previous been modded to a SSC P7 some years ago.

    NOS 18650 Chameleon body w/ lionhead


    DarkZero SSC P7 mod w/ glow epoxy


    Epoxy removed to reveal just the emitter package


    Driver prior to removal


    LED removed and wires pushed down


    Switchcover removed


    Driver was glued down, put a paperclip through a through-hole and coiled it to pull out the driver


    Soldered in silicone wires for the main leads


    Increased hole size to allow the silicone wires to fit comfortably


    P7 came apart during removal


    Focal height is pretty good with just the MCPCB


    Superglue mix to tack down the board and prevention any reflections from the shiny board in the beam. May have to redo this down the roads since it only fits the Lionhead now.


    Great beam with cozy warmth and good color. The 219C runs way cooler than the SSC P7



    Direct album link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cwfqZnCIYcz9ylaD3
    Last edited by Thetasigma; 05-13-2018 at 07:41 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    I have so many questions, but the main one is when modders like you do emitter swaps but don't touch the driver, how do you know it will be compatible? I guess a better question is: do you take the time to look up the spec sheets for the driver (if you can even find it) and the previous emitter and compare it to your new one? And can that sometimes lead to less than desireable effects? For example, we can assume the emitter you replaced is less efficient. Let's say the old driver had a L-M-H and it drove them at 9%, 50%, and 100%. The new high will be brighter which is a good thing but the new low might be really bright with the new emitter, which is a bad thing.

    How did you decide which emitter to replace it with? How did you know the existing reflector would work and you didn't need to raise or lower the emitter? I am just surprised that so many of these straight swaps "just" work.
    Peace!
    Sygyzy
    www.sygyzy.com | Hall of Fame: js, MrBulk, Litho123, Dark Zero, Lips, Milkyspit, StarHalo

  3. #3
    Flashaholic* Paul6ppca's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    Wet nice. Can you give more detail on removing the driver?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    I have so many questions, but the main one is when modders like you do emitter swaps but don't touch the driver, how do you know it will be compatible? I guess a better question is: do you take the time to look up the spec sheets for the driver (if you can even find it) and the previous emitter and compare it to your new one? And can that sometimes lead to less than desireable effects? For example, we can assume the emitter you replaced is less efficient. Let's say the old driver had a L-M-H and it drove them at 9%, 50%, and 100%. The new high will be brighter which is a good thing but the new low might be really bright with the new emitter, which is a bad thing.

    How did you decide which emitter to replace it with? How did you know the existing reflector would work and you didn't need to raise or lower the emitter? I am just surprised that so many of these straight swaps "just" work.
    LED selection is easy, I like 219Cs and had one on hand, though I may redo with an XP-L HI at some point. Mr.Bulk lights were designed around 3V LEDs, and replacement with another newer 3V LED should be a non-issue from an electronics perspective. A higher high is a desirable outcome, however levels don't really matter with these drivers as these are ramping UI drivers, and the first I am aware of with that UI and a side switch. Biggest trouble could have been the reflector, since the height of the die could be in a difference spot, however in this case the die of the 219C on a MCPCB matched the die of the P7 in its own package directly on the heatsink, and the beam was satisfactory, so I left it at that.
    As far as drivers go, Mr.Bulk stuff is one of the few cases where I wouldn't replace a driver with something newer, the integrated side switch is excellent, the UI is fantastic, and it fits. The other cases would be something with a proprietary dual voltage range like a AA/14500 light or CR123/16340.


    Driver removal on Mr.Bulk stuff will vary, some will just be fit in there, some that have been modded may have been glued, or they may have a spring ring holding it in place. Ideally if glue is not used, you would want to lift the driver opposite the switch side.
    This one was glued down, so as it says above, I inserted a paperclip (thin stiff wire) through one of the through-holes on the side with 6 in a group since there are fewer components to risk damaging there, and as I inserted it, I bent it such that it would coil up on the inside and act as a hook.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    That's like the ultimate modern retro look light with the 18650 tube....

  6. #6

    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    Quote Originally Posted by mcbrat View Post
    That's like the ultimate modern retro look light with the 18650 tube....
    It is awesome.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    I believe what you are referring to is the emitter’s Vf, or “forward voltage.” Ton of info on CPF regarding this topic.

    Dang it.. didn’t do the quote thing for Sygyzy’s post. I suck...
    Last edited by Dirty wage guy; 05-14-2018 at 08:18 AM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    Very nice workmanship. It takes steady hands to do that kind of work.
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  9. #9
    Flashaholic*
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    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    I have so many questions, but the main one is when modders like you do emitter swaps but don't touch the driver, how do you know it will be compatible? I guess a better question is: do you take the time to look up the spec sheets for the driver (if you can even find it) and the previous emitter and compare it to your new one? And can that sometimes lead to less than desireable effects? For example, we can assume the emitter you replaced is less efficient. Let's say the old driver had a L-M-H and it drove them at 9%, 50%, and 100%. The new high will be brighter which is a good thing but the new low might be really bright with the new emitter, which is a bad thing.

    How did you decide which emitter to replace it with? How did you know the existing reflector would work and you didn't need to raise or lower the emitter? I am just surprised that so many of these straight swaps "just" work.
    You don't always know how things will work out, but looking at the LED's data sheets will tell you a lot.

    Starting with driver / LED compatibility:

    a) Vf (forward voltage)
    - Look at the Vf for the two LEDs - they should be about the same
    - Nominally 2.5 - 3.3 volts is close enough
    - Most single emitter LEDs fall into this range. It isn't until you get into multiple die in a package wired in series that this will change substantially.

    b) Current
    - If the new LED can handle equal or higher current than the old one, you are good
    - One thing to watch - if the new LED can handle a "lot" more current, then it might not be driven hard enough to have sufficient surface brightness - which will show up in less throw.

    c) LED height
    - Look at the data sheet for optical properties - usually it is there.
    - Sometimes shimming is needed.
    - If you look at that reflector, it is fairly stippled vs a mirror. That tends to smooth out the beam and fix small problems.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Mr. Bulk Update

    Quote Originally Posted by HarryN View Post
    Very nice workmanship. It takes steady hands to do that kind of work.
    Thanks, and thank you for the contribution below

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