pc_light
Enlightened
On another thread member Number21 asked about drop-ins for old 2-AA Maglites, I mentioned a mod I'd done using an AA and member LiftdT4R was interest in details, so rather than to hijack the original (any more than I already did) I created this thread so that I could provide details here.
Yes, I know there are better lights out there for the money.
Yes, there are easier ways to upgrade a minimag AA.
And finally, why bother? - because we can, it was fun and I'm a flashohic
I didn't intend to create detailed step-by-step instructions so I didn't take photos of the progress as I was working. Frankly I just followed along the recommendations of some earlier threads, that did a better detailed explanation. FWIW, here is my take on the steps, nothing new or novel, just sharing what I recall.
(Apologies original author for not including reference to their thread, I can't seem to Search/find it anymore.)
Here are the list of materials -
One more item I purchased was a large 1/2 shank drill bit to make light work of the required boring (<$10). The other/previous mod threads recommended using a 25/32" drill bit but I opted for something smaller (23/32") so that my fit could be more snug. The size is variable depending on how much one intends to file/reduce the brass pill. Even the drill bit is argeably optional, since one could dremel or sand the inside to achieve similar results.
Step 1 -
Completely dissassemble the guts of the MiniMag AA. The switch where the bulb is inserted can be disassembled by prying off the bi-pin holder and simply punch the remaining portion down into the battery tube. When done we have an empty bezel head, and battery tube.
Step 2 -
Prepare/resize the brass "pill" (second from the left). I filed & sanded until all threads were gone and walls smooth/straight and overall round. In my case, I re-sized the diameter down to the previously mentioned 23/32".
(Empty P60 Assembly)
Step 3-Dry fit or rough assemble the brass pill, LED driver and LED/mcpcb. Mount the TIR optic and take a measurement of the overall height of this light engine assembly (from bottom edge of brass pill to top surface of optic).
Temporarily replace the old/original plastic reflector into the head and make a note of the height/distance or how much it sticks up from the top of the reflector to the top edge of the head (e.g., 1.4 mm). Whatever that measurement is subtract this number from the combined height of the assembled light engine. This measurement is the bore depth for the next step.
In other words, when the final light engine assembly is inserted into the finished bored bezel head, it should stick up by this same amount so that the glass and retaining ring fit as original.
Step 4 -
Prepare/resize the Minimag bezel opening (from the Glass end, with glass and ring removed) to 23/32" diameter (or matching the brass pill diameter). This can be done fast using a the drill bit or with a some time/effort using a dremel/sanding/etc.
NOTE: Remember not to bore all the way through. Leaving a slight lip/ledge will provide the pill a place to rest when inserted into the head. The exact depth of the bore varies depending on the height determined in the previous step.
Step 5 -
Assemble LED light engine (driver+ small spring (item on far right of P60 assembly picture at top)+pill+LED on MCPCB+TIP Optic). Place into bezel/head and replace glass/retaining ring. The head is now complete. There is one more step, to prepare the battery body.
Step 6 -
Since the minimag does not use a tailswitch (or even if it uses an after market clicky) the next and final step is required to enable the battery to make contact with the driver. One must sand the end of the battery tube so that bare metal is exposed. This exposed metal is needed to make contact with the outer ring (negative/cathode) of the driver to turn On/Off.
NOTE: Be careful NOT to sand/expose metal on the thread sides of the battery tube and/or to the extent possible avoid exposing metal on the threads of the head. Doing so will result in a closed circuit which means the light will not be able to be turn off. Similar to all twisty lights, anodizing is required on the thread surfaces to electrically insulate and keep the circuit from unintentionally closing.
Here is the business end of the completed light and resulting beam (my rough estimate, about 250 lumens). In my case I chose a medium throw optic, one can optionally choose a narrow, wide or even mule (i.e., no optic) depending on the desired results.
If you do this mod. please remember to share your results :twothumbs
Yes, I know there are better lights out there for the money.
Yes, there are easier ways to upgrade a minimag AA.
And finally, why bother? - because we can, it was fun and I'm a flashohic
I didn't intend to create detailed step-by-step instructions so I didn't take photos of the progress as I was working. Frankly I just followed along the recommendations of some earlier threads, that did a better detailed explanation. FWIW, here is my take on the steps, nothing new or novel, just sharing what I recall.
(Apologies original author for not including reference to their thread, I can't seem to Search/find it anymore.)
Here are the list of materials -
- AA Minimag Incan Host (I started with an old Minimag but they can be found at close-out from Walmarts for like $5-7 these days)
- $2 AA 800mA Linear Boost Driver from FastTech
- $1 20mm Acrylic Optic from FT
- $5 XP-L V5 4500K from FT
- $2 Brass P60 Pill from FT
- $3 21mmx1mm Glass from eBay
=========
$13 Total +host
One more item I purchased was a large 1/2 shank drill bit to make light work of the required boring (<$10). The other/previous mod threads recommended using a 25/32" drill bit but I opted for something smaller (23/32") so that my fit could be more snug. The size is variable depending on how much one intends to file/reduce the brass pill. Even the drill bit is argeably optional, since one could dremel or sand the inside to achieve similar results.
Step 1 -
Completely dissassemble the guts of the MiniMag AA. The switch where the bulb is inserted can be disassembled by prying off the bi-pin holder and simply punch the remaining portion down into the battery tube. When done we have an empty bezel head, and battery tube.
Step 2 -
Prepare/resize the brass "pill" (second from the left). I filed & sanded until all threads were gone and walls smooth/straight and overall round. In my case, I re-sized the diameter down to the previously mentioned 23/32".
(Empty P60 Assembly)
Step 3-Dry fit or rough assemble the brass pill, LED driver and LED/mcpcb. Mount the TIR optic and take a measurement of the overall height of this light engine assembly (from bottom edge of brass pill to top surface of optic).
Temporarily replace the old/original plastic reflector into the head and make a note of the height/distance or how much it sticks up from the top of the reflector to the top edge of the head (e.g., 1.4 mm). Whatever that measurement is subtract this number from the combined height of the assembled light engine. This measurement is the bore depth for the next step.
In other words, when the final light engine assembly is inserted into the finished bored bezel head, it should stick up by this same amount so that the glass and retaining ring fit as original.
Step 4 -
Prepare/resize the Minimag bezel opening (from the Glass end, with glass and ring removed) to 23/32" diameter (or matching the brass pill diameter). This can be done fast using a the drill bit or with a some time/effort using a dremel/sanding/etc.
NOTE: Remember not to bore all the way through. Leaving a slight lip/ledge will provide the pill a place to rest when inserted into the head. The exact depth of the bore varies depending on the height determined in the previous step.
Step 5 -
Assemble LED light engine (driver+ small spring (item on far right of P60 assembly picture at top)+pill+LED on MCPCB+TIP Optic). Place into bezel/head and replace glass/retaining ring. The head is now complete. There is one more step, to prepare the battery body.
Step 6 -
Since the minimag does not use a tailswitch (or even if it uses an after market clicky) the next and final step is required to enable the battery to make contact with the driver. One must sand the end of the battery tube so that bare metal is exposed. This exposed metal is needed to make contact with the outer ring (negative/cathode) of the driver to turn On/Off.
NOTE: Be careful NOT to sand/expose metal on the thread sides of the battery tube and/or to the extent possible avoid exposing metal on the threads of the head. Doing so will result in a closed circuit which means the light will not be able to be turn off. Similar to all twisty lights, anodizing is required on the thread surfaces to electrically insulate and keep the circuit from unintentionally closing.
Here is the business end of the completed light and resulting beam (my rough estimate, about 250 lumens). In my case I chose a medium throw optic, one can optionally choose a narrow, wide or even mule (i.e., no optic) depending on the desired results.
If you do this mod. please remember to share your results :twothumbs
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