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Thread: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

  1. #1

    Default First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    I just received my first HDS Rotary, a CW XP-G 200 from 2011

    Factory presets are
    A Maximum
    B Rotary
    C 10 lumens
    D Slow Strobe (Bike Flasher)

    Force Preset B is ON
    the next 2 settings had been customized by the Previous Owner:
    Triple Click Button Lockout is ON
    Pseudo Momentary is ON and uses the Rotary dial position

    I measured the output on my homebrew meter
    minimum 0.08
    maximum 180 (10% error, my meter reads low)

    First Impressions
    The dial is deliciously smooth in both directions
    Knurling is pleasantly smooth and non aggressive, which I prefer

    The Crenelations of the Bezel are not overly sharp, which I also prefer
    The button is a little squishy, but it is completely recessed and tailstanding is perfect

    My iPhone Camera and my Video Camera, detects NO Flicker on the lowest mode, nor on any other mode.. YAY!

    Tint is white hotspot, green around the corona of the hotspot, then violet in the spill, and then a brighter ring around the outer edge of the spill. I actually like the outer ring, it lets me know where the edge of the beam is, more easily than a spill that fades in a diffused way.

    there is a cross shaped donut hole in the hotspot if held closer than 3” away from the surface Im illuminating

    Reflector has a slight orange peel texture, which I like

    The LED is perfectly centered, like!

    When I rotate the dial to increase brightness I find the steps a bit disconcerting, feels a bit like a strobe


    Next I enabled Customized Programming

    Enable Customization
    20click press hold until light turns off (displays ramping up brightness and then turns off)
    now customization is enabled
    I leave it enabled because I like the ability to change brightness presets and Options

    Change Preset C to about 20 lumens
    turn on, double click to reach C
    double click press hold release, click to advance one step at a time, do this twice
    my light meter said 18.8 lumens, press hold until light turns off
    done, C is now about 20 lumens

    Change preset D to Strobe:
    triple click to reach D
    double click press hold release to reach brightness presets
    click through to the strobe
    press hold until light turns off
    now strobe is enabled

    Turn off triple click button lockout
    from on do a triple click then hold release, this enters the option menu
    click until reaching the triple flash
    press hold until light turns off
    button lockout is now off

    Turn off Momentary
    go to options menu (triple click press hold release)
    single click to advance through the Options menu
    find the long flash short flash that indicates Pseudo Momentaryd
    press hold until off
    momentary is now off

    My Customization Results:
    A Maximum
    B Rotary
    C 19 lumens
    D Fast Strobe

    Force Preset B is ON
    Triple Click Button Lockout is OFF
    Pseudo Momentary is OFF

    Pics, Left to right 4000k N219b 9050 90 CRI, 4500k N219b 9080 90 CRI, 6000k XP-G 70 CRI






    the only way I have been able to see, with my naked eyes, the PWM or Flicker that maukka has documented,
    Quote Originally Posted by maukka View Post
    I noticed some flicker on the lower levels 1-6 on my light.
    ...
    The flicker on the HDS will probably never be visible in normal use.
    is to wave the light on lowest mode, which is not something I do in normal use:
    Last edited by jon_slider; 11-06-2018 at 08:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Flashaholic* thermal guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Now EDC it and enjoy. They are great lights.
    If i had one day left to live i would want to be at my workplace.Because every day is like a frickin eternity.

  3. #3

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Im really enjoying learning about it.. So glad it finally is dark LOL :-)

    I found the correct Manual, V1

    I did a Factory Reset to confirm the Default Presets are
    A Max
    B Rotary
    C 10 Lumens, I changed this to 19 lumens
    D Bike Flasher aka Slow Strobe I changed this to Fast Strobe aka Tactical Strobe

    with the following Options Menu sequence and defaults, and the Customizations I chose
    1. TurnOnPreset–indicated by<longflash> default is ON B Rotary
    2. ButtonLock–indicated by<threerapidflashes> default is OFF
    3. AutomaticTurnOff–indicated by<bright-to-dim-ramp> default is OFF, I turned it ON, I confirmed the timer lasts 10 minutes
    4. LocatorFlash–indicated by<dimflash> default is OFF
    5. Momentary–indicated by<longflash, shortflash> default is OFF
    6. Burst–indicated by<brighter-dimmer> default is ON, confirmed the step down one level after 40 seconds on Max
    7. Customization–indicated by<dim-to-bright-ramp> default is OFF I turned it ON w the 20 click

    and I did the process to determine the firmware version
    I got binary number 00010100 which converts to 2.0 in decimal format (from March 2011)
    Last edited by jon_slider; 11-06-2018 at 10:08 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by thermal guy View Post
    Now EDC it and enjoy. They are great lights.
    Youre right!
    All specs and pics aside, in actual use, This thing is way cool!

    It is plenty bright to reach out to the fence in my back yard, it feels great in hand, the Rotary UI is freaking fantastic, and as Im now starting to slow down when I spin the dial, Im loving the steps, so I can tell when I have made a small incremental change.

    I have it set up the same as my Novatac, except when I want to change my low mode preset B, I dont have to use morse code.. yet I still have a triple tap to strobe, double tap to medium, and press for too much light!:-)

    the HDS is slightly taller, and notably more slender, by a smidge, than the Novatac.

    Next comes Tint Play:

    Quote Originally Posted by indigon View Post
    I've had good luck with the older V2 & V3 HDS 200 XPG & 250 XP-G2 (Angry Blue-Green tint as Hogo mentioned) by using a Lee filter #162 Amber (Pale-Amber-Beer color). Changes the XPG into a neutral 4600°k-ish with realistic true color rendering. The XPG is originally around 6300°k 73 CRI. Now I have to re-think this whole HiCRI thing. My new 219B 4500°k HiCRI which I like a lot (slightly) enhances the colors, particularly the reds and browns, but they are not the true colors as I see them in daylight, the colors are actually a little richer at night with this HiCRI 219B 4500°k.

    If you have an older HDS and want to fool around with the tint these Lee filters are worth a look:
    (You just cut one out the size of the lens and place it over the reflector).
    https://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm


    http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-list.html
    I have started testing the Bastard Amber Filter 162, and comparing it to the half minus green and quarter minus green.. I have not tried removing the bezel and lens yet, but I can see why you like the Amber. I agree it is a nice Tint.

    Also agree the 4500 219b oversaturates, it is quite unique in several ways. I especially like that it is neither yellow nor green, even if it is a bit overly pink :-)

    Thanks for the suggestions and links.

  5. #5
    Flashaholic*
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by jon_slider View Post
    I just received my first HDS Rotary, a CW XP-G 200 from 2011
    Great your Rotary arrived! Also cool you like it. I am Pretty sure that will not be the last one.

    Maybe you will have the luck getting one of the "Low K" Rotaries from the legendary Hogo run. I like the 2700-3500K versions a lot.

    On your beamshot the tint of your Rotary does not look that good if it is compared to a 4000K or 4500K 219B. But in my opinion, at least it is the case with my 250 Lumens, the tint is not bad for a cool White LED.
    Still looking for Surefire G2 in Orange.
    If you have one you don't like please PM me.

  6. #6

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by WarriorOfLight View Post
    in my opinion, at least it is the case with my 250 Lumens, the tint is not bad for a cool White LED.
    I agree the XP-G2 is a great LED.

    The XPG has a lot of great features to it also, mostly it looks white and I dont mind the slight green tint at all.

    Im enjoying getting to know the light in stock form, no rush to change anything, though I do have an SW45 set aside for it.

    Like you, I also like the warmer LEDs, and the 3500k 219b is very interesting.. it is a wonderful time to be into LED lights, and Hogo is doing an amazing job sourcing special options in High CRI.

    For the warmer lights I think the diffuse reflectors create a great option as well.. I was very happy for you to get the UV glow also.. congrats!:-)
    Last edited by jon_slider; 11-07-2018 at 12:29 PM.

  7. #7
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Congrats Jon on a fantastic light, the rotary UI is one of my all time fav’s.

  8. #8

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by jon_slider View Post
    I agree the XP-G2 is a great LED.

    The XPG has a lot of great features to it also, mostly it looks white and I dont mind the slight green tint at all.

    Im enjoying getting to know the light in stock form, no rush to change anything, though I do have an SW45 set aside for it.

    Like you, I also like the warmer LEDs, and the 3500k 219b is very interesting.. it is a wonderful time to be into LED lights, and Hogo is doing an amazing job sourcing special options in High CRI.

    For the warmer lights I think the diffuse reflectors create a great option as well.. I was very happy for you to get the UV glow also.. congrats!:-)
    There should be some other interesting emitter options coming in a few months.
    One of them I am particularly interested in but I'm not going to post what it is for several reasons. First and foremost, I'm a dick... Actually, it is because of the "stir" it might create... which it will anyway, but it will just make folks who don't understand bin codes gnash their teeth and make unintelligent comments (much like politicians) and I've heard quite enough of that over the last couple of months (from politicians), so people will just have to wait as I don't wish to deal with that sort of thing here. Let's just say it took Henry and I (well, I sat there as Henry explained aspects of bin codes and black body radiator lines, and a host of other things that pretty much flew over my head the first 4 times he explained it, but the fifth time... I understood. Then it was calling various suppliers to have them check their emitters to find out exactly what bin codes they have (which makes them upset because they have to go check the reels and then call us back in a few days as they don't put the numbers we need on their web sites), and then we have to hope they have the particular one we are looking for (most don't, but that is why we call), and then we (actually Henry) tries to get them to split a reel and sell us some for the exact bin we are looking for. Easy peasy...

    More to come later... most likely in it's own thread.

    In the meantime, enjoy that Rotary!
    Last edited by Hogokansatsukan; 11-08-2018 at 12:45 AM.
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  9. #9
    Flashaholic* RCS1300's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by Hogokansatsukan View Post
    There should be some other interesting emitter options coming in a few months.

    How about a 4 hour Black Friday LED emitter special? Nothing says Happy Holidays like a new and special HDS light.

  10. #10

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by Hogokansatsukan View Post
    ... in a few months.... unintelligent comments

    In the meantime, enjoy that Rotary!
    LOL! thank you.. Im enjoying it greatly, in actual use I cant tell the tint is green and the CRI is Low.
    The HDS tight hotspot beam is outstanding, and I Love the option to change modes without using morse code

    but
    I can't wait, so let me be the first to say something unintelligent,

    the LHD351D has Green Tint.. ;-)

    warning, I have a European Sense of Humor, no offense to anyone, including Europeans
    Last edited by jon_slider; 11-08-2018 at 12:45 PM.

  11. #11
    peter yetman's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    None taken, by this European.
    P

  12. #12

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    LOL
    Im lost

    So Im turning on my Locator Beacons ;-)


    and hiding a crib sheet here, for the different Options Menus in different HDS years:
    Last edited by jon_slider; 11-08-2018 at 07:28 PM.

  13. #13
    Flashaholic* Lithium466's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Nice light, you got yourself a keeper
    Also glad to hear you can do a factory reset, I thought the very first rotary had the bug that prevent the factory reset to be done...but it must have been corrected without changing the firmware version.

    Also good to hear new emitters are coming. Samsung, Luminus ? We'll see when time will come!
    Want DC-fix? PM me!

  14. #14

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    thanks, yes the factory reset made C 10 lumens and D a bicycle flasher
    later years put flasher on C and Strobe on D, which is where I like it, as that is consistent with my Olight UI also

    this year firmware makes C and D rotary dial only
    I can see how that can be less confusing

    sometimes after a double click, that I customized to 20 lumens, I turn the dial and nothing happens.. LOL

    Im having so much Rum I feel Giddy, I mean.. Fun!

  15. #15
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    My brand-new HDS Rotary doesn't exhibit PWM. Maybe there's a way to get the firmware updated in your older model.

    Also, mine has a mostly-smooth reflector that appears to be made of lathed stainless steel, but despite not having orange peel the beam is surprisingly smooth. I'm not sure if this is because of the larger emitter dies used in newer LEDs, or if someone finally figured out the magic formula for shaping smooth reflectors that don't produce rings and other artifacts in the beam.
    Last edited by fyrstormer; 11-08-2018 at 08:53 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Glad you are enjoying your light and reflector.. congrats

    Yes a firmware upgrade to 2.18 is also an option

    Im considering whether I want anything in the new FW version, before proceeding with a mod to N219b sw45 9080

    The process of upgrading firmware, includes recalibration to stock.. any lumen gains from the High CRI upgrade (if there are any) will be lost

    Im very impressed by the tight hotspot the HDS reflector produces
    Im hoping it plays well with the relatively small N219b

  17. #17
    Flashaholic* thermal guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Well look at the bright side. Bet ya with the pwm you guys are getting runtime has increased 😂😂
    If i had one day left to live i would want to be at my workplace.Because every day is like a frickin eternity.

  18. #18

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by thermal guy View Post
    Well look at the bright side. Bet ya with the pwm you guys are getting runtime has increased 😂😂
    LOL!
    What you cant see, wont hurt you.

    Lets definitely NOT argue about PWM.. it is what it is.
    and no, the runtime has not increased since the Acme era started in 2011.. your U60 wins the runtime race hands down!

    fwiw
    HDS has been using PWM below 500Hz since at least 2007:
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...=1#post1901201

    and they still do today
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...t=#post5236123

    but like I said, if you cant see it, you cannot be harmed by it
    just dont wave your light like a madman, and all will be well

    now back to our regularly scheduled program.. observe the marvels of the Rotary interface, and my superior technique ;-) (thats a joke)
    Last edited by jon_slider; 11-10-2018 at 01:17 PM.

  19. #19
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    I'm not arguing about the benefits or drawbacks of using PWM. All I'm saying is the HDS Rotary Custom that I ordered a few weeks ago shows no visible PWM on any setting, and I know my eyes are good enough to see PWM on other lights I own. They must've improved their design in recent years.

    As far as adjusting the light, I prefer to maintain an overhand hold on it, since that's what's necessary to operate the power switch in the first place. Then I adjust the knob with my thumb and forefinger, rather than holding the knob in the palm of my hand and turning the rest of the light as you did.

  20. #20
    Flashaholic* Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by jon_slider View Post
    I have started testing the Bastard Amber Filter 162, and comparing it to the half minus green and quarter minus green.. I have not tried removing the bezel and lens yet, but I can see why you like the Amber. I agree it is a nice Tint.

    I have used the Bastard Amber on quite a few lights, but note that due to subtle tint differences of the particular light, what looks good on one might not be so good on another.

    What I like to do is pick several of my lights that I like, that make other lights look bad when the beams are crossed, and tailstand them along the length of a table. Then I pick out a bunch of prospects from the swatch book and fan them out so I can move the light from one to the next. By comparing with the beams on the ceiling, I can find the one that best gives what I'm trying to achieve. It's the ultimate "beam crossing"!

  21. #21

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    I do enjoy playing with Lee Filters, but I really prefer High CRI, over Low CRI plus filters.

    I did some testing, and decided to get the LED in the Rotary replaced to N219b 4500k instead of using filters, which rob a significant amount of light, and still dont make it High CRI. Focus on the Red Beads in the middle, see how the Low CRI LED makes the red brown, only the N219b has positive R9 CRI. And imo, the minus green makes the beads redder than the amber filter.

    top row l-r Gold Storm w N219b 4500k, stock HDS Rotary w CW XPG
    second row l-r HDS Rotary w XPG plus half minus green #248, 28% loss, HDS Rotary w XPG plus bastard amber #162, 22% loss


    what remains to be determined is the lumen loss going from XPG to N219b.. with XPG2 to N219b the loss is 28%

    after that, the light might visit Henry for firmware upgrade and recalibration (unless the lumens go UP with the High CRI N219b, which ime is unlikely)

  22. #22
    Flashaholic* thermal guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    I think that is why I’m not very interested in tint and color and temp. Because to me those pictures above all look basically the same. Yes I can see very Subtle difference in them but in the end they look very much the same
    If i had one day left to live i would want to be at my workplace.Because every day is like a frickin eternity.

  23. #23
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by thermal guy View Post
    I think that is why I’m not very interested in tint and color and temp. Because to me those pictures above all look basically the same. Yes I can see very Subtle difference in them but in the end they look very much the same
    Those examples aren't very helpful, unfortunately. All the colors are bright and monochromatic to begin with. To really see the difference between a normal LED vs. a Hi-CRI LED, you need photos of something with lots of color gradients, like paintings or outdoor landscapes. The difference is much more striking in those examples, because it will be obvious that certain colors are abnormally dark relative to a reference image lit with an incandescent light.

    However, all name-brand LEDs made in the past few years are worlds better than name-brand LEDs from 2010 or so. Go back to a warm-tint Cree XR-E and you'll really see the difference compared to the Nichia 219b, and it will be much more obvious why people were so excited about Hi-CRI LEDs.
    Last edited by fyrstormer; 11-11-2018 at 06:22 PM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    since the beads proved confusing (I was ONLY talking about the RED ones), let me show in another way, the difference between High CRI and Low CRI.. focus on the RED bar



    Low CRI lights have Negative R9, no amount of added filters can ADD red that does is not being produced by the LED

  25. #25
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    How did you measure this? I've never seen readouts like that before.

    In any event, the zero-line on that graph must be a relative value, because it's impossible for any light source to emit a negative amount of light in any color.

  26. #26
    Flashaholic* Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    I don't think those are his measurements, those are likely from a supplier/manufacturer.

    A negative value sounded wonky to me too, so I had a read. If you look here: https://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildin...-factsheet.pdf you'll see on the third page a set of R9 values, and for a high-pressure sodium light, R9 is actually -214. The red looks like mud. Who knew?

    Something else I learned, is that R9, or any kind of actual red, is not included in the colors used to determine CRI. That explains why the CRI numbers for the 219B 9080 LED's are not much better than many other high CRI LED's, yet things look much better with them when there are reds and colors with significant red in them present. jon figured this out a while back, and I was not fully aware of why he was asking about R9 content for various LED's then, but I get it now.

  27. #27

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
    How did you measure this?
    I suggest you familiarize yourself with the reviews by maukka
    here is one:
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...-RCR123-16340)
    scroll down the page and you will see comprehensive charts, that include the graphic I posted for the XM-L2 with negative R9

    you will also find similar measurements here:
    https://www.virence.com/product-page...21at-nvswe21at

    the N219b 4500k chart came from virence.com , and I believe it was also done by maukka

    I have no expertise by which to answer questions about how it is possible to report a negative R9 value, but, as you can see, it exists

    feel free to contact maukka directly, and or do more googling to learn about CRI measurements

    bottom line is there are various different categories of CRI, Ra being the one most typically reported, and CRI R9 being the one that I personally have a very strong interest in.. the Red bar.
    Last edited by jon_slider; Today at 12:17 PM.

  28. #28
    Flashaholic* Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    And just to circle back to what started this little tangent, selecting filters:

    They are just that, a filter to remove something you have too much of, like green. Taking green away does not add red, it only reduces the ratio of green relative to red, so it looks "more red", but it's really less green, and also less bright to achieve that.

    But, when I don't have the motivation to put a better LED in an otherwise nice light that does not see use due to an "icky" beam color, a filter is a quick way to put it in contention with some of the lights I consider "very nice". That is not to say it will be as good as something like the best 219's, but at least I can enjoy using it, especially when I don't "cross the beams". Also, since the brightness levels of modern lights are so much greater than what I normally use, the minor loss of lumens from the filter is a small price for me to be able to really enjoy using more of my lights.

  29. #29
    Flashaholic* maukka's Avatar
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    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    My floor is a great test for CRI and especially R9. It's just much more vibrant with a good LED.

    Images unaltered from a phone.

    CRI80 (219C 5000K)


    CRI90 (219C 5000K)

  30. #30

    Default Re: First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

    Quote Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
    since the brightness levels of modern lights are so much greater than what I normally use, the minor loss of lumens from the filter is a small price for me to be able to really enjoy using more of my lights.
    good points.. a filter can definitely improve an otherwise unacceptable beam

    fwiw, the lumens loss from a filter is, to me, not minor. For example the Amber 162 reduces lumens by 22%.
    A 1/2 minus green #248 reduces lumens by 28%.. which is similar to the lumen loss from swapping in an N219b in place of an XP-G2

    I agree a filter is definitely a valid option, when changing the LED is not convenient...

    I personally put such a High Priority on Red Rendering, that for my personal needs the Amber 162, and the 1/2 minus green leave me dissatisfied, because I DO cross the beams with my N219b 4500k 9080..

    definitely do NOT compare a Cool White LED with a filter, to a true High CRI LED, or you will end up being a Tint Snob, like me.. LOL

    since I have the choice to use N219b 4500k 9080 in my Gold Storm, my XPG Rotary is currently not in use.. If anyone can recommend a modder to swap the LED for me, I can provide the N219b 4500k 9080.. I just need someone with modding skills.. please PM me any modder suggestions

    I wanted to LOVE the Rotary interface, but I do not. The jumps between levels bothers me. But the bottom line is I personally care much more about a High CRI LED than I do about the make, model, and UI of any light that I use... thats just me.

    I do respect that a Cool White light has many valid uses. I also respect that some people have different priorities than I do. I respect different people have different needs, preferences and priorities, and in no way do I intend to make those whose choices are different than mine, wrong, for their needs. For example, I have seen several people mention that they care more about runtime at minimum levels, efficiency, than they do about tint or CRI..

    Enjoy your lights, in whatever way makes you happy, and I will do the same :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by maukka View Post
    My floor is a great test for CRI and especially R9. It's just much more vibrant with a good LED.
    Im glad you have ways to decide what you like.. Someone else will come along soon and tell you they cant see any significant difference in the two photos you posted..

    I like to use the palm of my hand to compare CRI.. it is very obvious, to me, when I am looking at a hand that looks pink and alive, vs green and zombie dead.. but, to my suprise, some people dont care about the colors of their floor, hand, or food the way you and I might.

    I am extremely grateful for all your contributions to my understanding of CRI, Tint and CCT. Your posts are full of information that I find extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share your tests and images.
    Last edited by jon_slider; Today at 01:10 PM.

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