Looking for a replacement for my old discontinued light

jbg23

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I haven't purchased a new light in a while and have been out of the loop. I was looking to replace a light that had with me every single day. It was a nitecore D10 piston driven light with infinitely adjustable output. I tried a Fenix E12 as I have owned fenix lights previously and they were decent lights. Well, this e12 is pretty disappointing. The switch is finicky and sometimes doesn't work at all. When it's working, it's ok, except there seems to be very little noticeable difference between medium and high output. Low could be a little lower for my liking as well. What I'm looking for is another D10 or similar. It's the ui that is appealing to me, and I like the 1aa size and convenience. I have a fenix E12, thrunite T10, fenix hl23, and some sort of energizer 1aa and they all simply aren't what I'm looking for. I have an abundance of 18650 lights etc, but am looking for 1aa recommendations. The ability to run a lithium 14650 would be a bonus.

Thanks in advance for any help
 

Need a Light?

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It looks like the D10 is a twisty aa light about ten years old with 40ish lumens on aa and 75ish on 14500? I don't know any aa lights at this point (last I owned was an sc52w l2) but while it's different, the zebralight sc5w mkII runs on nimh, alkaline, or lithium primary aa. It gets 500+ lumens max on turbo and can do over 150 lumens for almost 3 hours. Not bad?

Your use case would help a lot. If it has to be that small I'm sure others can help you more. Otherwise 18650 opens up the best world for lights, I'd let us know what you need in a light and what you use it for.
 

jbg23

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The D10 was a single power AA light, that wasnt a click nor a twisty. It had a "click" type piston on the end of the light that turned it on and off. Holding in the piston would ramp up or down the output, while a quick double press would go to low mode and double press and hold went straight to high. It was intrinsically safe which is important for my needs. I like that I could put it in my front pocket and forget about it until I needed it. The single AA size and form is what I am really looking for. The D10 was perfect and it really is a shame that the concept has not been improved upon with newer LED's and such. That piston driven system was ahead of its time
 

Need a Light?

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Ah. Yeah I'm far from the most knowledgable. But I've never heard of the piston system. So I doubt there are many, if any that exist in a modern light. Basically your light was 50-70 lumens max, intrinsically safe, single aa size, and a unique interface?
 

jbg23

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Russ, glad someone else remembers the D10. I'll check out the light you suggested. Thank you. I haven't been on here since 90% of led's were state of the art and 5mm
 

Timothybil

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I think Nitecore has one intrinsically safe light, but it's probably larger than what you are looking for. Streamlight has a lot of IS lights in several sizes you might want to look at. I think Pelican has some as well. You can always Google Intrinsically Safe and see what comes up, then check the finds for reviews, etc. Happy Hunting.

If it wasn't for the intrinsically safe, I was going to recommend the new Lumintop AA 2.0. It is pocket size, and will run on either an AA or a 14500. Due to the lower output, the modes when using an AA aren't separated all that much. But when one drops in a 14500 it turns into a really nice little light.
Another really nice AA/14500 light that I EDC is the Nitecore EA11. I really like it and its small size is ideal for belt carry.
 

Fad1200

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I would recommend the streamlight protac 2aa 250 lumens.I have had a good experience with streamlights. Another option would be the olight I3T. I always have this one on me as it is really small and only takes 1aaa and puts out 180 lumens.
 

Russ/TN

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5mm LEDs......I remember those.
There are a lot of nice lights out there.
If you could be more specific about the safety requirement, that and a budget will probably help with recommendations.
I bet you could learn to really like a Zebralight SC53W, but is 60 bucks too much?
If accurate color identification is important, one of the high CRI lights might be called for.

Careful! ....folks get addicted up in here!

Oh, and welcome back!
Russ
 

jbg23

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60 bucks is fine. I suppose I would like to stay under $100. I get into some areas where explosive gas is an issue more than a need for crazy bright inspection lights. I just need to see where I am walking typically so color temp isn't all that important. I have bigger lights that I usually have to run back to the truck to grab when time is not on my side, so that little D10 in my pocket was real convenient. I do have a Fenix E12 but the medium and high look the same to me and it bugs me. I don't think it is explosion proof either.
 

jbg23

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Ah. Yeah I'm far from the most knowledgable. But I've never heard of the piston system. So I doubt there are many, if any that exist in a modern light. Basically your light was 50-70 lumens max, intrinsically safe, single aa size, and a unique interface?

That sounds like a pretty accurate assessment. I wasn't sure of the output
 

Paul6ppca

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If you look on the for sale section you can fund one. Post a WTB. Want to buy and get another D10. I still use my D10 with Golden Dragon led. The green tritium still glows in its tailcap!
I agree, I wish they kept that design alive.
 

ZMZ67

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The D10/EX10 were special. lhave a couple EX10(CR123 version) with Golden Dragon LEDs and I am not aware of anything that would compare that is available right now. Paul6ppca probably has the best advice in posting a WTB. The Sunwayman V10R/V11R(no personal experience with these lights) might work as an alternative to the EX10 since it has a variable control ring but like the EX10 it is CR123 and I don't think there was a AA alternative. Seems like no one is making continually variable output now,everything is some form of set modes.
 

archimedes

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Although not exactly comparable, for any number of reasons, would any of the newer torches with the "Narsil"-based UI (such as the Emisar series) possibly meet your needs ?

EDIT - just noticed the "intrinsically safe" requirement you listed above, so that wouldn't work :caution:

There are very few IS-certified flashlights, and if that feature is critical, that will severely limit your acceptable options.
 
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Paul6ppca

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I'm sure if you post a want to buy, someone will help you out!
BTW I like the UI
Narsil that's one big reason I like my Emisar so much. If you click and hold it will always come on low and ranp up but it is 18650. Not sure if they make aa size. Check mountain electric website.
If your open to new upgrade I would look at Zebralights. I always wanted one. Another good choice is Olight.
 
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Paul6ppca

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I haven't purchased a new light in a while and have been out of the loop. I was looking to replace a light that had with me every single day. It was a nitecore D10 piston driven light with infinitely adjustable output.

Thanks in advance for any help

It looks like three just sold this evening. Have I seen them earlier I would've p.m. you. Keep an eye on for sale or what's new. I'm sure you can find one.
 

staticx57

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How about an HDS Rotary? One the best UIs in the business and bomb proof. Many many many many levels of brightness...all access in the simplest method, turn the tailcap.
 

Fireclaw18

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Ah. Yeah I'm far from the most knowledgable. But I've never heard of the piston system. So I doubt there are many, if any that exist in a modern light. Basically your light was 50-70 lumens max, intrinsically safe, single aa size, and a unique interface?
"Piston system" is basically a metal button in the back of the light.

However, instead of having a switch in the rear of the light, the button actually consists of bare aluminum sleeve that slides along the inside of the body tube, with one end closed and a spring inside. The "button" is actually the bottom of this sleeve. Pressing the button pushes the sleeve forward until its open edge touches contacts on the back of the driver closing the circuit. There's also something done so that both of the battery have electrical contact even when the battery is not depressed. I'd have to open up mine to see how they did this.

In feel, a piston is a lot like any other tailcap pushbutton, except that it has absolutely zero wobble since the entire battery tube stabilizes it. In function, they work just like any other e-switch.

Or at least that's how my one piston-switch like works. I don't have a D10, but I assume it works the same.
 
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