How to tell one LE from the other?

Hello Don.

Let's asume I would own several Aleph heads with several LEs. And I'd like to swap them around because I am such a guy.
Of course I forgot to think about that before, so ... how can I tell my different LEs apart? Are they marked somehow?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

bernhard

P.S.: of course your sales could skyrocket with lots of fried LEs out there ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But bernhard, I would rather talk and type about these than actually make them! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif

If someone orders one, they will get it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif In the mean time, I am getting caught up on facing battery tubes, prepping more tailcaps for the anodizer and on and on.

To your question, I have been engraving the lip of the ES-Can with a current drive level and voltage range or approximation of range, like I have done with the PR's and PR-T's. I have also been trying to remember to engrave the side of the can with the LED bin. The drive level and voltage can be read on the LE while it is in the head. To read the LED bin, it must be removed.

A nail polish code could also be implimented but I sniff enough of that crap doing the switches and ahem... conformal coating over the solder points that are exposed. Besides if there were a code, you would need a code book! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

You can usually get a good idea of what you have by reading the type of converter and looking at the type of LED. The only question then would be the current setting. (as opposed to a past setting?!?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif )

Short answer: they are marked but in my hand so good luck reading the markings! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Bernard, Don has done as before. He has ingraved the V and the mA on the bottom of the LE.

mut

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif.. just what I had hoped.
thanx! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
bk

McGizmo Code Book - that sounds cool /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

But it has to be a secret to gain the maximum X-factor!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
bernhard

I am wrestling with this question as well. When I build a PR or PR-T head, I usually write the driver type, current setting, emitter bin code, and build date inside the head just below the window. With the LE system, writing this data inside the head isn't optimal since the LE can be changed out so easily.

From a purely technical standpoint, this information isn't really necessary, since you can tell what type of driver and what type of emitter (i.e. III or V) is in the LE just by looking at it, but it's nice to know the details.

[ QUOTE ]
Kiessling said:
But it has to be a secret to gain the maximum X-factor!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
bernhard

[/ QUOTE ]

..till when you want to sell it & the buyer asks - what bin, what convertor, what draw? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/oops.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh2.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

well, it's easy ... just lie! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif
bk