Mc2s resistor values***UPDATE***

[K-T]

I was going to create a table with the used resistor values in combination with driver and LED used but failed in doing it via InfoPOP. Nevertheless I think it would be wonderful if these who own one of his MiracleTailcaps (M2S they are called I believe) would post their combination of resistor value, driver, led, battery setup and short description of beam quality/usefullness in low/high setting.

My goal will be to setup a table either here or via link accessable for these still in search for the right resistor value.

What other additional info is useful to catalogue the
resistor values?

Let's make this a useful database. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Klaus.

UPDATE 16.09.2004

[McGizmo]

K-T, [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img] that would be great! In numerous E-mails, I am also asked about expected runtimes on low. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif[/img] I admit to doing a few runtimes but I don't have the time, batteries or patience (let alone combinations) to try to do this myself!

Thanks and I hope members can contribute to this!

[K-T]

No problem, Don.

I, too, rely on our members to contribute what they have experienced here as I don't have any of these.

[McGizmo]

K-T,
Well we *should* do something about that! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]

[K-T]

Already saving the pennies - but that's not subject of this thread. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Hmmm, hopefully by tonight when I'll check on this thread it'll be more than a conversation between you and me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif[/img]

[McGizmo]

Hey, It can be *our* special place! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif[/img]

[kj]

I was going to provide some guesstimates based on my measurements, but now I think it would be better to leave this place to you guys [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[McGizmo]

kj,
Get your a$$ back here! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]

I'll start off with what I decided I thought worked best:
1x123 with boost driver -15 ohm
2x123 with step down & Lux III - 60 ohm
2x123 and boost driver 5W - 22 ohm
3x123 and step down driver 5W - 30 ohm

[kj]

OK. I guesstimated the runtime and lux@1m using magic formulas (don't ask [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]) You may think it's too vague, but I want to be on the safe side [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

You may check out my McE2S page for the data I used for this estimation.

2x123, Downboy, Luxeon III, PR/PR-T/Aleph 1
==================================
15 ohm: 7~11 hours, 750~1150 lux
22 ohm: 10~15 hours, 550~850 lux
30 ohm: 13~21 hours, 450~650 lux
60 ohm: 27~41 hours, 250~350 lux

Badboy, 1x123, Luxeon III, PR/PR-T/Aleph 1
=================================
15 ohm: 11~18 hours, 150~250 lux
22 ohm: 16~25 hours, 110~180 lux
30 ohm: 23~35 hours, 80~120 lux
60 ohm: 48~73 hours, 30~45 lux

Badboy, 2x123, Luxeon V, PR/PR-T/Aleph 1
================================
15 ohm: 4~7 hours, 130~190 lux
22 ohm: 6~9 hours, 80~130 lux
30 ohm: 8~13 hours, 60~90 lux
60 ohm: 17~26 hous, 25~45 lux

KL4, 2x123
========
15 ohm: 5~9 hours, 80~120 lux
22 ohm: 8~13 hours, 60~90 lux
30 ohm: 11~18 hours, 45~65 lux
60 ohm: 23~35 hours, 20~30 lux

I'll update this table as we get more actual data.

---EDIT---
(9/2/2004) Lowered the L4 lux readings because Don's chart reminded me that my L4 would be 30~40% brighter than average L4's.

[4x4Dragon]

[ QUOTE ]
kj said:
OK. I guesstimated the runtime and lux@1m using magic formulas (don't ask [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]) You may think it's too vague, but I want to be on the safe side [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

You may check out my McE2S page for the data I used for this estimation.

2x123, Downboy, Luxeon III
=====================
15 ohm: 7~11 hours, 750~1150 lux
22 ohm: 10~15 hours, 550~850 lux
30 ohm: 13~21 hours, 450~650 lux
60 ohm: 27~41 hours, 250~350 lux

Badboy, 1x123, Luxeon III
====================
15 ohm: 11~18 hours, 150~250 lux
22 ohm: 16~25 hours, 110~180 lux
30 ohm: 23~35 hours, 80~120 lux
60 ohm: 48~73 hours, 30~45 lux

Badboy, 2x123, Luxeon V
===================
15 ohm: 4~7 hours, 130~190 lux
22 ohm: 6~9 hours, 80~130 lux
30 ohm: 8~13 hours, 60~90 lux
60 ohm: 17~26 hous, 25~45 lux

KL4, 2x123
========
15 ohm: 5~9 hours, 100~150 lux
22 ohm: 8~13 hours, 75~110 lux
30 ohm: 11~18 hours, 55~80 lux
60 ohm: 23~35 hours, 25~40 lux

[/ QUOTE ]

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thanks.gif[/img]

[sebast]

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif[/img] Exactly what I looked for!
Could you estimated runtime and brightness with Pilas?It would be very useful!
Thanks ! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodjob.gif[/img]

[K-T]

kj, your list made my work much easier - thanks a lot.

The lux readings are very useful to compare each light, neverthess a subjective description and maybe comparison to some known lights could be useful, too. What do you think?

Sebstien, do you want to know the runtime on the low setting? Brightness shouldn't be different no matter if you use 123A cells or Pilas, it just depends on the driver and if a strange setup of batter-driver-luxeon could drop into DD instead of regulation.

Klaus.

[kj]

Sebast,

I don't have Pilas. Sorry.

K-T,

I believe that both the brightness and runtime will be different between 123A and Pila. As you said, the Badboy and Downboy will be in direct drive when resistered. This means that the LED will be driven at BatteryVoltage - Current x SwitchResistance - VoltageDropAtConverter. The battery voltage is the primary factor here.

JFYI, Madmax converters will not be in direct drive even with these range of resistors.

[K-T]

That's what I was trying to say - the knowledge and experience was just missing. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[McGizmo]

kj,

You are the MAN! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] At some point soon, I want to give you a "sticky" that will be your thread and none of *us* will be allowed to post! With the proper threat of the wrath of Darell and other means of intimidation, thethread can be left open but only you will post images, evaluations and observations! K-T will also be allowed in to bring the fruits of this thread along.

[Kiessling]

I have only this to contribute:



sorry, no runtimes on low ...

Don, dito for KJ's thread!

bernhard

[K-T]

kj, your webpage is impressive. Tons of useful information about the M2S with excellent and helpful pictures. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/clap.gif[/img]

More interesting than runtime on low is useability of the Low-setting in my opinion. I see the M2S as a feature or addon. The light came without it and there is only one output level and runtime depends only on the time the light has been left switched on. By adding the M2S I am rather looking for an additional lowoutput than to push my runtime. The increased runtime could be seen as a positive sideeffect of course. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Klaus.

[sebast]

Thanks K-T and kj for answers [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
I'll order somes differents values and test on pilas.

[akula88]

Anyone not shy enough to post Pila 150s or 168s or 17500 values? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

[The_LED_Museum]

I have a McE2S with a 22 ohm resistor, and obtained the following intensity values on a SureFire KL4 with known-new BatteryStation CR123A cells:

KL4 on "high": 500,000mcd
KL4 on "low": 52,400mcd

Let me throw a Pila 168S rechargeable cell with unknown prior usage in there and remeasure...BRB...

KL4 on "high": 490,000mcd
KL4 on "low": 13,000mcd

The "high" value is almost the same as it was on disposable cells; but the "low" value is considerably lower.

[McGizmo]

Where are the Pila guys???? It seems to me that these guys are playing with from 7.5 ohms up to 22 ohms. Since we are dropping from ~6 volts with the 2x123 and only ~4 volts with the Pila's less resistance is required. You also have the overdischarge protection in the cell to play with. Sound of Pila gents! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[albert]

Don,

What resistor value should i be looking at if i want to acheive a 10:3 effect on a Badboy, 1x123, Luxeon III, PR/PR-T/Aleph 1?

Thanks in advance for any info.

[McGizmo]

Albert,
Take a gander at kj's graphs. I haven't a clue off hand. Bear in mind that the low from the resistor will be the same regardless of the current bias on the high! You have not specified what drive the BB is so how could I determine the low?!?!? The resistor does not provide a porportional drop based on the high level of current to the LED.

As I have mentioned numerous times for those who want to dial in their own resistor value, get some resistors from an electronics store and short the battery to battery tube with them and evaluate the resulting beam. When you find a level you like, choose that for your resistor value. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif[/img]

[albert]

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
Albert,
Take a gander at kj's graphs. I haven't a clue off hand. Bear in mind that the low from the resistor will be the same regardless of the current bias on the high! You have not specified what drive the BB is so how could I determine the low?!?!? The resistor does not provide a porportional drop based on the high level of current to the LED.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's a BB500. The one you made for me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodjob.gif[/img]

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
As I have mentioned numerous times for those who want to dial in their own resistor value, get some resistors from an electronics store and short the battery to battery tube with them and evaluate the resulting beam. When you find a level you like, choose that for your resistor value. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Can't do that, i have zero electronic knowledge. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/stupid.gif[/img]

[albert]

Don,

Just to let you know. The McE2S-60ohms on your E2D-PR-T-DB917 is just too dim on low for my liking, i have changed it to a 15ohms and i like the result a lot.

Now i'm starting to think the same for the BB500 which currently uses a 15ohms McE2S which is also too dim on low.

[Darell]

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
With the proper threat of the wrath of Darell and other means of intimidation

[/ QUOTE ]
I'm all over that plan! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/xyxgun.gif[/img]

[McGizmo]

Albert,
You might want to try a 7.5 ohm in that case.

Darell,
I knew I could count on you! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[Billson]

Don,

Since the 2-stage switch doesn't work with the newwiz converters, will it affect the full power performance if we don't use the low setting.

Likewise, can we order the switch from the shoppe without the resistors since it won't work anyway.

[McGizmo]

Billson, I haven't given up on two stage yet with the wiz 2 but to answer your question, the resistor doesn't harm the circuit and full power is still full power. The PCB can be shorted in that the resistor can be replaced by a wire jumper and then you will get full power in both low and high conditions. The guts from a SF LOTC can also be used in the McE2S cap for single level output.

[Billson]

That's what I was thinking but I wasn't too sure. Thanks for the clarification.