Need help with little 3w homebuilt

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
Hello,
Ever since the LH got out of my grasp i've been looking for a way to make a replacement of sorts. i want to make a light like this:

Fatman driver set to 750ma,
3w Lux,
Small-ish,
runs on 1x123
at least 80 min runtime
IMS 20mm reflector

Im woring off a design involving copper pipe and pins/solder - remember i have no lathes etc

neg

[EDIT: Updated criteria to latest]
 

andrewwynn

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Fatman is boost so unless you want to have 3 emitters, nFlex will be the one you want.. somebody put an nFlex into a C body, they needed to trim it a little and put it in at an angle.

I'm thinking you'll get a lot more than an hr runtime and i HIGHLY recommend the IMS 27 reflector.. although.. if you want a more practical light, use the 20 or 17.. much better close-up light..

I have some beamshots here that show exactly the difference between the 17 and 27.. i think the 20 would be a great compromise between the two.

The lights making those beamshots are here. the 27 is fun for showing of, the 17 is way more practical and useful.

-awr
 

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
OOH! if the Fatman is a boost circ, then 1x123 here i come. i couldnt work out if it was boost or buck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

i think i'll go with the IMS 20mm reflector.....looks like the best. still small enough to make a pocketable torch, yet useful. ok, well that's settled.

i'll want 80mins minimum at 100% - any suggestions as to how to make the dial unobtrusive? i wonder what charlie would charge for a LH driver board.......

this is gonna be hard, i know.... any thoughts as to how to do it? im thinking about working off a previous design using copper piping, solder and pins....

remember that i dont have any lathes etc

neg

P.S. main post updated with latest criteria
 

KevinL

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Hate to disappoint you, but 80 minutes on 1x123 with a 750mA 3W Lux isn't quite going to happen... it's the same challenge that faced those modding the KL1 and other 1W/1x123 lights.

In a best-case scenario, even if you get a really good J Vf, something in the middle would be approx. 3.4V, x 0.75A = 2.55W. The driver may be extremely efficient, say 90%, but it'll take a little bit of power, so 2.55/0.9 = 2.83W.

2.83 / 3V = 0.94A, assuming no voltage sag. Realistically, it's going to draw more than 1A from the battery, let's take it as 1A. Duracell's datasheets say no more than 60 minutes max, and probably more like 50 minutes in regulation before voltage plunges. The LH is getting those runtime numbers because of the use of larger, more powerful Pila rechargeable lithium ion batteries - benefiting both from higher voltage and lower voltage sag.
 

Hallis

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What if he uses JSB's protected 4.2V 123's? I just got mine in and ive got mixed feelings about them. They look kinda funny, look at my pic in the review section thread. But, they seem to charge right on the money. They came off the charger at 4.15v & 4.17v. Just my 2 cents worth.

Shane
 

andrewwynn

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agreed on the notion of runtime... I still think that size matters.. i'd rather have a dial that lets me change the power.. the fatman has an input option of a 50k audio pot that will let you control brightness.. you can dial down to 2.5W or what it takes to get the runtime you desire, but have full power on hand at a moments notice.

for the control.. the thing i personally was looking into using the fatman in a project of mine was a thumbwheel (like the old am radios).. you can't maintain water-tight integrity with that solution is the main problem.. other possibilities: a thumb-switch (has up/down buttons.. and outputs BCD mechanically.. that could be hooked up with resistors.. advantage.. could be covered with a rubber boot.. and holds the setting better).

on megasonic i use an audio pot with a switch.. it would add a bit of length and make tail standing complex.. but you could have the switch out the tail.. i just realized. use a big enough knob and it can tail stand on the knob... this solution is fairly water-tight.. definitely rain/splash worthy, i wouldn't say 'dunkable' unless you find a very special pot.

Oh.. being 'boost' can be an issue for fatman... not quite sure what it does when Vbatt is over Vf.. so you may need a high Vf emitter to have regulation behave reliably.. i think it just mostly goes to DD in the case, but means you can't control power 'til the Vbat drops below Vf. (there will be some intrinsic voltage drop in the ckt, so it just has to be 'close'.. just a FYI.. my solution: series emitters.
 

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
1hr is still fine. i was saying 80min as an optimistic hope. isnt the vf of a lux III 7v or so???? if so, then 3v in is well below.....

hmm, i guess the thumbswitch is like the SCSI ID switches on my external HDDs, two little clicky things that you press to change the number on the disp and the SCSI id of the drive.... all i'd need is 9 resistors really, cos on level 9 would be 0 ohms and 0-8 would be resistored, that would give me 10 levels.... not quite the 64 of the LH, but still good. looks like i've got my birthday money spent on a fatman, a switch and a TWOJ LS....

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

keep ideas coming please,

neg
 

andrewwynn

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the thumbswitch is exactly the switch used for scsi ident. I was guessing you'd more likely be using IDE with windohs.. SCSI was much more popular on mac (all we used for a decade).

Lux 3 is between 3 and 4V Vf... my little AAA light uses a J bin emitter and takes only about 3.25V at a watt.. but my big light measures only 3.2V/emitter x 4 emitters at 850mA, not exactly sure why.. the emitters came at the same time.

Look at the details on fatman... if you can get a high-Vf like T bin for both brightness and Vf, i think you'll be golden.
 

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
i use windows, but im the admin on a server for my devleopment network and it uses SCSI drives /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

hmmmm, so im gonna need a TWOT emitter, seeing as i want t bin bright ant WO bin tint

neg
 

KevinL

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[ QUOTE ]
Hallis said:
What if he uses JSB's protected 4.2V 123's? I just got mine in and ive got mixed feelings about them. They look kinda funny, look at my pic in the review section thread. But, they seem to charge right on the money. They came off the charger at 4.15v & 4.17v. Just my 2 cents worth.

Shane

[/ QUOTE ]

I haven't even gotten mine and already I'm not impressed by what others are saying - these cells just don't seem to have anywhere near the capacity of traditional CR123s, or even Pilas - they're less than half of what the Pila 150S even.

I dunno.. guess you may be even better off with unprotected cells because of better capacity. After seeing your pics I'm quite convinced it's a hack job that they sat on till the last minute - no wonder it had to all be done "by hand". So much for "setting up the machinery"..

The cells may be in by this week, I'll do my tests and report back. I expect a normal SF123A to stomp all over the R123 in my KL1.
 

andrewwynn

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sounds about right... I have scsi selector switches and almost used one for my latest project (universal LiON charger)... but bought a rotary 2P6T switch instead. double-check the fatman limits of Vin and Vout.. i'd fire off an email to taskled.

-awr
 

Hallis

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[ QUOTE ]
Neg2LED said:
HEY! this thread is NOT for discussion over R123s!

HIJACK!!!

neg

[/ QUOTE ]

You're right, this is a thread asking for advice on how to build a 3-watt light. And potential power supplies are part of that discussion. At leat i would think so.

Don't see how that can be considered a hijack /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Shane
 

KevinL

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[ QUOTE ]
Hallis said:
[ QUOTE ]
Neg2LED said:
HEY! this thread is NOT for discussion over R123s!

HIJACK!!!

neg

[/ QUOTE ]

You're right, this is a thread asking for advice on how to build a 3-watt light. And potential power supplies are part of that discussion. At leat i would think so.

Don't see how that can be considered a hijack /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Shane

[/ QUOTE ]

Maybe we should have just said "ain't gonna happen" and walked away, but that tends to **** people off and it's against the CPF spirit. Or should we? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bottom line: if R123s can't keep a KL1 tickin' for an hour, what more a 3W LED at 750mA drive current. Two cells may be better.
 

Hallis

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And with 2x123 li-ion rechargables you could use a DownBoy and have tons of runtime. But in multaple cell scenario you want one with protection aginst overdischarge. Which currently only JSB's cells have. Oh well. My advice on the matter is concluded Kevin since niether yours or my opinions matter.

Shane
 

andrewwynn

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don't get so defensive, shane /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

What's wrong with rechargeables, Neg? they are such a bargain.. yeah i have noticed there is a lower WH rating of course, but look at the amp ratings.. i have noticed that the rechargeables can handle quite a lot more current than primaries, and when you can build a charger for $2 or $3US..

I had little interest in rechargeables before i used one to solve 'the impossible'.. though i have less WH from the rating... I can output twice the power in my AAA light using LiON.

All that said.. 'chill' on the whole 'hijack' thing.. we are all here to help... primaries or rechargeables (or either is best)... fatman probably will mix much better with primaries and a single Lux 3.. btw... you really want a lower Vbat than Vf.. LiONs are a PITA when it comes to a single L3 trust me, it's been the biggest thorn in my side.

-awr
 

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
Well, it just so happens that for me Lithium Ion Rechargable 123s cost $30au a pop! bit spensive. still. anyone got ideas as to how i can make the body without a mill/lathe?

neg
 

andrewwynn

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how much for primary 123? or just internet deals (i've seen $1.25 to $2.00 US).. but in stores.. like $7 a pop.. they pay for themselves quickly (rechargeables).. in any event.. i think you'll want to use primaries to you can use a boost ckt.. get a high Vf lux3 and use primaries with the fatman...

usually you'll have to start with some other flashlight as host if you don't have tools to machine... but people have made them out of pipes and such.. if you make it out of Cu, you will have no problem conducting the heat away since it's 2x as conductive as aluminum.. it's scary how fast heat moves through copper.. try cutting a piece with a dremel while you are holding it! youch.

I think it'd be cool to make a light all out of Cu pipes.. you could even use a fitting meant to neck down the size to get a traditional 'bell' shape.

For the ends.. people have put in rivets and a notch so you do a 1/4 turn to lock on the bottom.. Cu also is better than Gold for being electrically conductive.. i think only Silver beats it.
 

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
Ooh! hmm, it sounds do-able. i think ill settle for 2 brightness levels for now, using a 2way toggle switch. ok, well next weekend im going to the hardware store to buy some pipe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. rivets, here i come. better pick up some dremel discs too :p

neg
 

Neg2LED

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'straya, mate!
Whoops, sorry. for me, a Energizer Lithium 123 costs $10US. so i stick with battery station packs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

neg
 
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