Switching McE2s modules to Z52

I got a 10-ohm black regular McE2s switch going together with my Aleph3. I find that the 10-ohm resistance would be a little low for 2xCR123, with the low mode only a little 'different' from high mode.

Last week, I switched the innards of the switch into a Z52 and used it on my KL1-E1e which is my pouch-EDC. I'm pleased with the low mode. But I found that there is a gap between the body and with either the modified-Z52 and nuttered-McE2s switches. Is there a way to modify the 2-stage module to remove the gap?

Regular Z52 on engaged mode {NO GAP}

modified Z52-Mc2Es module installed : high-mode engaged {note the gap}

McE2s tailcap with the regular Z52 innards. {note the gap}

Filing/sanding the jam nut can tweak the gap, but realize that it moves the switch assembly relative to the tailcap and the rubber boot. There's a limit before you run into the boot.

There is also the consideration that removing too much material will keep the jam nut from functioning at all.

I'm trying to remove the gap on my McE2S in E2D shrouded tailcap, as the o-ring is a mite exposed when off. I'm using the stock clickie boot, which has plenty of extra room. I need to remove a LOT of material, so I'm thinking about putting in a plastic washer of appropriate size, since I don't need the threads.

You could try trimming the spring a bit.

The best solution I've come up with is snapping an o-ring in the groove. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I use o-rings to fill in all sorts of gaps. I have about a million of them now, so I've gotta use them somewhere!

what i did was remove the white spacer ring that goes between the jam nut and the rubber boot. Then you twist down the jam nut some more and it reduce the gap. If you play with adjusting the jam nut you can get it to were you want it.
jimmy

The spacer washer is not required with the current jam nut and it will increase the gap needlesly. If the jam nut is tight against the boot, the gab should not be so great. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

I followed some of your advice - sanded the jam nut and the bottom of the rubber boot a bit. I also smoothen the metal parts. Reassembled it and firmly increased the torque when tightening the jam nut. The gap of the E2-BK and Guarded McE2s is no longer discernable. The gap on the 2-stage-Z52 and E1e body is also satisfactorily reduced similar to using a Z57 clickie.

Problem solved! Next...