L4 e2s questions

Hope this is in the right forum. If not, someone please move it.

Onward!

Ok, I've got an L4 that I use with pila 168s cells. I really like this setup.

I've seen a lot of people talking about the 2 stage tailcap for the L4 called the e2s. Apparently McGizmo is making and selling these.

I'm leaning toward getting one, but need some info first.

My current setup runs about 45-55 minutes before dying. This is a guess as I have never measured it. Supposedly it outputs 60-65 lumens in this config.

I'm leaning toward a 2 stage that runs at about half this level. What runtime can I expect? What resistor value would this be?

Finally, could I just use a 2 stage tailcap off an A2?

For half the brightness of the L4 the McE2S probably isn't the right candidate ... it works by kicking the converter out of regulation and this will result in a significantly dimmer low-level. Unfortunately I have no lumen ratings (for obvious reasons), but it is certainly less than 30lm.

Runtime is measured in multiples of hours though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Don't think the A2 cap will work.

bernhard

I use the 30-ohm resistor in my L4/Pila/McE2S setup. The resulting output is substantially less than half of the default high-level output. This output is perfect for close-range tasks, or for use with dark-adapted eyes.

I haven't tested runtime, since I just got the Pilas this week, but given the substantially reduced brightness, I would imagine a runtime of several hours on the lower setting.

I too have the 30 ohm McE2s on my L4. Output on low is more or less like an Inova X5, which I think is just right. I'm running 2xCR123 right now, so I assume that low output will diminish (maybe greatly) on a 168S.

best regards

Toss the A2 switch idea. Won't fly! The A2 switch chooses between two circuits for one thing... and the circuits are in the A2 light body.

You won't get exactly half the brightness, but a 30 ohm resistor will make the light useful in many situations and will substantially increase your runtime.

The only bad news is that the driver is still trying to boost, so this is the same situation as a 1x123 and NG or BB driver. Not as elegant as dropping a buck driver, but it still works quite well, and will probably give you what you're looking for.