McE2S Disassembly Question

I finally got around to trying my second PCB in my McE2S. Rather, I got around to trying to try it.

As I understand the disassembly instructions (courtesy of Chop from another thread):

Very easy with a 3/32 hex wrench. All you need to do is pop the switch module out of the tail cap and then use the hex wrench to unscrew the two halves of the module. Just take note of the orientation of the PCB and the PCB spring. Replace the PCB and replace the screw. Pop the module back into the tail cap and you're off.

It all works until the "unscrew the two halves of the module" part. Mine won't budge. I have a long T-handle hex wrench, so I'm getting plenty of torque. I even tried gently gripping the bottom half of the module in a pair of pliers.

Any suggestions on how to get take this thing apart?

Thanks, and happy holidays to all!

Are you gripping the bulb half or the disk half with the pliers? Try gripping the bulb half. There is a lock washer on there and it just may be a bit too tight. If you have a vice, you could try putting the bulb in the vice with something to protect it from the jaws.

The bulb half acts as sort of a nut that the screw screws into. Hope this help.

Like Tony has said, the button is threaded and serves as a nut that the socket head cap screw threads into. After a couple people stated that their switches came apart, I went to using a lock washer under the screw in the asembly.

Thanks for the quick replies!

I was using the wrong tool. I started out with needle-nose piers, which couldn't grasp the assembly well enough. When I switched to channel locks, it came apart just fine.

Turns out my 30-ohm PCB may be bad. When installed, I get no low output -- it just goes straight to high. I double-checked my assembly, and the 15-ohm works fine with the PCB and spring oriented the same way.

No point in replacing it, though, since even the 15-ohm is a bit too dim on Pilas for my purposes -- about the same brightness as an Infinity Ultra. I'll read the threads again and see what others have to say, and probably order whatever is the next resistance value down from the 15-ohm in the next few days.

Thanks again!

Yeah, sounds like your resistor board may be shorted. If you have a DMM, check it from the inside to the outside of the contact surface and see what you get.

10 Ohm is the next logical step down for resistance, BTW. That's what most of us have typically been using for 1x123 lights lately.

Mike,

Which converter are you running? If you are running a NexGen with either a high bias or a lux with a K or higher Vf, then the Pila should work fine with either 10 or 15 ohms. If you are running at Wiz2, you'll need about 4 ohms for the Pila to give you a decent low mode.

All of this is assuming that you have a Lux III.

If you can tell me the configuration of your LE, I could probably give you a good idea of what you need with the Pila. I mess with them a lot.

Darell,

Unfortunately, I don't have any sort of electronic test equipment. Maybe someday....

Tony,

I'm running my McE2S with a completely stock Surefire L4 and a 168S Pila cell. Do you think 10 ohms will give me a nice low level?

Mike,

From what you've said, it sounds like 10 ohms will probably do it for you. If 15 ohms is just a bit too dim, then Darell is right. 10 ohms is the next logical step. It really depends on how bright of a low mode you want.

Just keep in mind that tailoring the resistance for use with a Pila will probably mean that it won't work very well when you go back to 2X123. The "standard" resistance for a 5W light running a boost converter is 22 ohms.