Hi all,
There has been a lot of people emailing me about mods (once again) for the 110 pointer (the one with the red LED on it). I haven't got one to experiment on at the moment but I did work out a small resistor mod on the last one I had.
With thanks to 'bootleg2go' for the excellent driver board images. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Front:
Back:
Looks easy to work out doesn't it...thats what I thought /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif
I might try feeding the circuit into Tina Simulator to see if I can come up with anything.
What we know so far:
1. The red and black wires that disapear into the diode are the wires for the feedback module - cutting these WILL disable the pot completely - so don't do it!
Some info on the feedback assembly here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=lasers&Number=771382&fpart=&PHPSESSID=
[ QUOTE ]
(Just a quick word of warning - if you have this model, remove the clear plastic cap for the LED from the housing before removing the circuit board or you will snap the button of like I did but just a bit soldering put it back on again.)
[/ QUOTE ]
I think the feedback module is there for better constant/stable output as you'll notice the removal of the IC chip on the back of the board. I can certainly confirm that the model I had made the needle on the meter jump all over the place without the FM. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif
2. The pot on these models turns CLOCKWISE for extra power the opposite of the 105's.
3. The red LED acts like a fuse and is quick to blow with too much current.
The single pin on the diode (back of the driver board) is the cathode or positive/case of the diode.
The two pins on the opposite of the diode (front of driver board) - the bottom is NC and the top is the anode from the drive circuitary.
The No Connection pin I have read is for an un-used photo sensor of some sort.
As always the post is an educational reference only and I take no responsibility for damage to yourself, others, or the pointer - I still have yet to verify this mod - (it worked the first time round). The mod is provided as my other posts as a free exchange of information between myself and others who are fascinated by the technologies. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
***To modify I have no idea what to do about the feedback module but to get a boost of current of about another 50-80ma - short the resistor marked 102 on the right of the pot. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Cheers!
Edited, wrong resistor...sorry I didn't have the board to hand.
There has been a lot of people emailing me about mods (once again) for the 110 pointer (the one with the red LED on it). I haven't got one to experiment on at the moment but I did work out a small resistor mod on the last one I had.
With thanks to 'bootleg2go' for the excellent driver board images. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Front:
Back:
Looks easy to work out doesn't it...thats what I thought /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif
I might try feeding the circuit into Tina Simulator to see if I can come up with anything.
What we know so far:
1. The red and black wires that disapear into the diode are the wires for the feedback module - cutting these WILL disable the pot completely - so don't do it!
Some info on the feedback assembly here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=lasers&Number=771382&fpart=&PHPSESSID=
[ QUOTE ]
(Just a quick word of warning - if you have this model, remove the clear plastic cap for the LED from the housing before removing the circuit board or you will snap the button of like I did but just a bit soldering put it back on again.)
[/ QUOTE ]
I think the feedback module is there for better constant/stable output as you'll notice the removal of the IC chip on the back of the board. I can certainly confirm that the model I had made the needle on the meter jump all over the place without the FM. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif
2. The pot on these models turns CLOCKWISE for extra power the opposite of the 105's.
3. The red LED acts like a fuse and is quick to blow with too much current.
The single pin on the diode (back of the driver board) is the cathode or positive/case of the diode.
The two pins on the opposite of the diode (front of driver board) - the bottom is NC and the top is the anode from the drive circuitary.
The No Connection pin I have read is for an un-used photo sensor of some sort.
As always the post is an educational reference only and I take no responsibility for damage to yourself, others, or the pointer - I still have yet to verify this mod - (it worked the first time round). The mod is provided as my other posts as a free exchange of information between myself and others who are fascinated by the technologies. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
***To modify I have no idea what to do about the feedback module but to get a boost of current of about another 50-80ma - short the resistor marked 102 on the right of the pot. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Cheers!
Edited, wrong resistor...sorry I didn't have the board to hand.