UPDATE: The GatLight is born. We got the first REAL PROTOTYPE IN - so no rendered images this time. Go to this latest thread to see the images here
BRIGHTEST AND SMALLEST
How about a[*]-R123 rechargeable powered [*]-constant current regulated (Fatman)[*]-Luxeon 5W (120 lumen)[*]-NX01 optics (or similar sized other one)[*]-1 inch diameter, less than 3 inches long[*]-heat sinking area that is larger than a Mag2D head[*]-dramatic design that allows to touch battery and reflector[*]-WATER PROOF[/list]
Think that's impossible. Here are some pictures (renderings) and the story, why it is possible (patent pending).
Next to an AA battery
Here is the story
The goal was to make an R123 battery light that can drive a 5W Lux. An R123 light is basically a rechargeble lithium ion 123 sized 3.7V -700mA cell that can deliver 5W. Problem with so much power in such a small package is heatsinking. So I tried to find new ways to increase heatsinking. (what follows by the way is patent pending)
I thought when I could use the inside of the light for heatsinking this would double heat sinking area. Problem with using the inside of a battery case for heatsinking is then the battery isn't water sealed anymore. So I though isn't a a battery in itself already water sealed.
An email to energizer whether a battery is waterproof provided the answer - here is there answer:
Thank you for contacting Energizer and also for your inquiry. At the end of production, the cells are actually washed in a mild Boric Acid solution. This removes any residual caustic that may have splashed onto the cans during production. Because the batteries are sealed, nothing would happen if a battery is accidentally dropped in water. Just wipe off the moisture and continue using the cell.
However, if the battery is immersed in water for an extended period of time, rusting may become a factor.
Thank you for contacting Energizer. Should you have any other questions feel free to contact us again.
Energizer Technical Support
So I asked myself why water sealing something that is already water proof. The same is true for the optics. Why water
sealing the entire optics when the optics are water proof (for example NX01).
So the goal was to design a light where optics and battery are not sealed. But where the emitter and driver plus positive battery contact are water sealed. Sealing is achieved by pressing optics and battery against an ORings = perfect sealing for emitter, electronics and battery plus contact.
The result is a design that has the heat sinking of a Mag2D head, but in a package of 1 inch diameter and a length of less than 3 inches. The design allows to touch battery and reflector (the one rod was purposely left out to make the design more dramatic). The light can be produced (3 milled out parts)
Regarding Driver, a slimed down version of George's fatman (taskled.com) would be used - the driver doesnt exist yet, but if there is enough interest in this light George would make one. At this moment no diming is possible for this setup even though the driver would allow it with a pot(haven't found one that could be made to fit)
However another feature that could be implemented (would increase the price though) would be an extendable battery case to accomodate for 2x 123 batteries without adding any new parts. If people think they would pay extra for this feature I could change the design to accomodate this feature. The price of this light will be at about USD 150 if we can get a large enough group interested in this light.
So for now, there are three questions for you to answer:
<ul type="square">[*]1) Would you buy one for USD 150 (120 lumen, constant current regulated, water proof)[*]2) Would you pay $40 more for an extendible battery case to accomodate 2x123 batteries. This would allow the extend the case without adding any new parts.[*]3) Provide a name for this light.[/list]
Last edited by mobile1; 03-11-2006 at 10:17 AM.
Reason: adding link to NEW THREAD
Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design
[ QUOTE ] mobile1 said:
[/ QUOTE ]
umm, from what I see, you turn on the light buy pressing the 'suspended/dangling' metal to the negative side of the battery. am i correct?
but what happened when you submerge it in to water, will the light be on immediately as water is a good conductor?
Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design
only downside i can really see is, looks like you have to take out a all the screws to get the battery out. That would be a serious pain in the @$$. Or is there an easier way to get the battery out?
Also, the light would either have to be 1x123 or 2x123, Having it interchangable would mean you'd have to do some funny stuff eith the bars. because the bars attached to the light end would not meet the end of a 2x123 tube, I suppose you could make bars on the 2x123 tube that would come up and make up the distance but how would you secure them to the other bars? The only thing i could think of was thin pins on the end that slide inside the screw holes, and just hope that removing and reinstalling over and over doesnt strip the holes of their threads.
At last, a fresh, new idea in flashlight design! It is totally unique - I like it! I really like the simple-complexity of the rods and plates. Contrasting dark plates and "gold-like" rods (or the other way around) would be beautiful.
Of course, it is much thicker than any other light in its class, and to some, this would make it impractical, but I think it looks great. If I could get the right combination of anodized and polished metals I would just have to have one. (Please make the screw heads either torx or female-hex heads; not slotted or philips.)
As far as the galvanic corrosion issue, I understand that some people would have a concern here, but it wouldn't matter to me, because I would never have it in water. This may have been covered already, but aluminum boats have the same galvanic problem. That's why they do not use the body of the boat to carry either side of the current. Each connection to every electrical device on the boat has its own positive and negative wire. I'm sure you could do the same with this light somehow. (I don't know - make one of the rods hollow with the negative wire running through it.)
You could offer different combinations of metals - one for the people who want to use it under water, and another combination for those that don't.
I haven't read much of this thread yet. Is there a list started yet?
Ok last days of my vacation - finally some internet access again. I have rendered some examples of which parts to gold plate and which parts to HA black or some dark grey color. Here is what this would look like. I like 1 and 2 the best.
However this requires me to change the design where the rods are seperate. The cool thing would be everyone can then decide themselves whether to use gold/or grey rods or any other combination.... However the design change would involve an other extra rod missing on the back, since the center sandwich holes for the rods would be too close to each other. I would have to change the design where the holes are open towards each other. Which requires to leave out another rod. Regarding naming, lets call it the gattling light... I think that is most appropriate.
Let me know whether you would like a gold/dark grey-black HA combination, or whether uni color is prefered.
Then some answers to questions:
rwolff Thanks for the corrosion issue of copper screws. I guess I'll then have to go with what you suggested. Need to find out how this changes the look.
lightchucker The corrosion issue in the back has been resolved by redesigning the back and adding an extra ORing. I don't think the light is much thicker then other lights in its class (3W @ 1000mAh. It is 1 inch thick which is about the thickness of an Arc LS2. I think the later Arc models were a bit thinner. I havent started an official list yet. If you post your interest in this thread, you will be contacted when I will be taking orders.
ok back in town... Gattling is fine. Doing it grey all the way is fine and actually doesnt require me to change the design. I tried the green HA core look but it doesn't look that great. The dark grey and green somehow doesn go well together. Now is it possible to do a green neon HA? Never heard of that. But if that's possible I can ry to render one to see what it looks like.