I have been doing MODs for a long time now, and I have just finished my fully ground up custom. It started with some 'defective' CR123's (thanks AW), I LOVE the idea of Direct Drive and I wanted to make something with them. I also wanted something swappable, like 2 heads, 1 for CREE hi-out white, and for CREE UV. I found some copper fittings at Home Depot that were really close. I got a 1/2"x 2 1/2" nipple, a 1/2" endcap, and a 1/2-3/4 reducer. It takes ALOT of work when the only real tools you have are a drill and a dremel tool. Anyhoo, I bored out the nipple so the battery would fit, cut half the threads off and ground the ridges down on the threads (inside and out) so the ends could mate well. I put a 4 position rotary switch in the tailcap (off, 10mA, 80ma, and DD ~500mA). The top side of the battery tube has a piece of copper board soldered in the end with a spring on both sides. The head has a copper board with a small metal cap to hold the spring. The CREE heatsink sits on the inner copper ring which provides decent sinking. The white CREE was the one that had the 'bubble' come off, it has been glues back on but now there is more blue leakage out of the edge (see last pic). There is also ALOT of glow-poxy in the front to hold it together. I can also (in a bit) make the UV head for it.
Jeff
Just put a new battery in my meter and corrected the current ratings.
The white hotspot is about 2 feet diameter at about 3 feet distance.
Cool! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] Efficient, multi level output with a very useable beam pattern! You covered the bases well! I am willing to guess that for most of your likely needs, this light will provide better function and service than a light you could spend hundreds of dollars on! And the best part is you made this light yourself!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif[/img]
Thanks Bradlee and Gizmo!! One question, since this is copper with a 220grit "brushed" finish, how fast will it corrode, and is there someway to protect the finish?
Jeff
Naw, it's copper. 1 I was able to solder easly to it, and 2 the package said copper. The pics shifted the color a bit so its hard to tell by that.
Will clear coat flake or peel off, and will 'brasso' work on copper, and will it protect it?
Jeff
The switch was a 1P10T I had in a box, I just moved a pin so it could only move a total of 4 places. The lens was from my box of lens(es), most of witch were salvaged from OLD ..... OK remember in school, the old filmstrip thingies?..."then Peter said to Jon, catch this ""DING"" {advance film}" those things, I had access to a bunch of those and I saved all the optics. I am not sure of the focal distance as it was the shortest one I had.
Jeff
That's cool, Jeff! As to finish, I'd recommend leaving it "natural," and predict your pocket will keep it nicely-polished. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
cy, I found an extra switch and was able to get the part number. It is a GRAYHILL 56D'P'(i think)38-01-2-AJN...9113, hope this helps. I just recientally tried cleaning it up with some metal polish...WOW, the center part has almost a mirror finish, and the other parts are VERY shiny but still retain some the the angled marks. I then put some turtle wax on to protect it.
Jeff
Great mod! I love the "found object" type of mods and this one is particularly nice.
To really give it a nice finish, I'd go with 600 grit, then 800 grit, then 1500 grit than finally Flitz metal polish. The Flitz will give that mirror finish as well as protect from corrosion.
My FIRST fully custom flashlight
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