McE2S for C/M bodies - prototype evaluated !!!

[Lunal_Tic]

Are all the same pieces included in the classic switch kit versus the assembled switch?

You can find both at: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...ywords=classic

-Mike

I'm interested in this question too. This kit is basically a drop in correct? Has anyone tried one of these with a Bug Out Gear LED drop in for Surefires? I've got one in a C3 and I'm thinking about using one of these 2 stage switches with it.

-LT

[McGizmo]

Guys,
You need to place these Q's in the shoppe forum. I am not clear on what Wayne and Cindy are calling what but to the best of my knowledge, you will need to provide your own host and use the existing boot and boot jam nut(after modification) to make a complete switch. ?!?!?!?

[wquiles]

Folks, these parts are for the modder and the Shoppe is not selling these as a completed assembly with the host. The assembled vs. un-assembled reffers to the actual guts of the switch - it does not refer at all to the actual completed assembly with the host.

So basically you need to start with an excisting switch, you need to dissasemble the switch and then replace the guts with the kit from the shoppe. Key here to remember is that you still need your own host (original switch) and need to do the final assembly as shown in my pictures earlier in this post.

Will

[270winchester]

I see. No problem there.My 6P wouldn't mine a little gutting...

[Lunal_Tic]

Folks, these parts are for the modder and the Shoppe is not selling these as a completed assembly with the host. The assembled vs. un-assembled reffers to the actual guts of the switch - it does not refer at all to the actual completed assembly with the host.

So basically you need to start with an excisting switch, you need to dissasemble the switch and then replace the guts with the kit from the shoppe. Key here to remember is that you still need your own host (original switch) and need to do the final assembly as shown in my pictures earlier in this post.

Will

Thanks for the info, I pretty much understood the need for a host tailcap hence the "drop in" comment in my post. I was just wondering about parts, additional to the host tailcap and assembled switch, needed to make everything work.

-LT

[wquiles]

LT,

The kit is not exactly a drop-in, but it is not hard to do at all. Besides the host switch and the new kit from the shoppe, you need nothing else except some patience and some basic hand tools.

As you can tell by my pictures, I started with a the host switch from an L6 and the assembled new guts - I then had to dissasemble the host, modify the plastic ring with a file, and fit everything back together.

I have used this new switch with the following combinations and it works great:
- L6
- BOG 3W module first gen, on 2xcell and 3xcell configurations
- BOG 3W module second gen, on 2xcell configurations
- BOG 5W module, on 2xcell configurations
- M4 with Turbo Head and LED lamp replacement module

Hosts bodies used:
- L6
- 6P
- L5
- G2

So yes, I have personally tested this with this modifications should work great for you as well

Will

[Lunal_Tic]

Excellent info. I'm thinking either the C3 on 123s or Pilas with the BOG 3W 2nd gen. I figure a 30ohm resistor would be good.

Out of curiosity what resistor did you use in the L6? Do you use Pilas in it?

-LT

[270winchester]

Hi Don:

How did you manage to remove the Jam Nut from the plastic retaining ring? I think it's an allen wrench but couldn't get it out....

Nick

[McGizmo]

Nick,
The jam nut and retaining ring are one of the same?!?! If you have the older style with allen screw, you need to pinch the boot to keep the button from turning as you remove the allen screw. Not sure I follow your question here, though.

[270winchester]

Hey Don, I'm just having trouble taking out the plastic ring after extracting the metal piece... It's like locked in place by force of the plastic...

Nick

Edit:

oops, I looked at the pics more carefully and realized that they are threaded in place, so i just took the plastic ring out wit hthe hel pof two pennies and a plier. THanks DOn, those pics are worth a thousand words....

[McGizmo]

Nick,
I put them in the electric furnace at 175F and that *usually* breaks the bond. I have had a couple not give it up though.

[wquiles]

Excellent info. I'm thinking either the C3 on 123s or Pilas with the BOG 3W 2nd gen. I figure a 30ohm resistor would be good.

Out of curiosity what resistor did you use in the L6? Do you use Pilas in it?

-LT

LT,

I no longer have the L6, but the module shown here has a 30 ohm resistor. Yes, I used two PILA 150S with the L6 at some point and this modified switch did work fine.

Will

[Lunal_Tic]

Do you suppose that one of these would work in the SW01 tailcap. That is the non-clickie one. I imagine that the internals are the same but don't have one to take apart . . .yet.

-LT

[tylerdurden]

If I already have a "standard" McE2S, do I just need the $2.00 "Classic Contact PCB - Surefire" item at the shoppe to convert it into a McC2S?

[wquiles]

If I recall correctly, there were 2 or 3 parts different between the two kits (E vs C) with the larger PWB being one of them.

Where is Don when you need him?

Will

[McGizmo]

Tyler,
Yes, the only difference in the switch module itself is the resistor PCB. You do need to "punch" out the classic jam nut to 3/8" to allow the putton to pop through. Obviously you need the classic host of which this jam nut is one of the components.

[wquiles]

Thanks Don - I obviously got that one wrong

I guess I should not trust to much to my "aging" memory

Will

[270winchester]

Hi Don:

I just got my assembly from Wayne and slapped it together, and it works like a charm. WIth 30ohm My KL3 has as much throw and a bigger hotspot than most lights with 40+ lumens, I love it!!!

Nick

[270winchester]

Update, just did a run time test on my KL3, it ran for 25 hours on a set of semi used battery before the light on low became significantly dimmer...Can't complain there...

[McGizmo]

[Kiessling]

This was the old style KL3 I guess?

And will this thing work in the SW02 and Z48 tailcaps?
And if yes ... can one with two left hands install and build it?

bernie

[McGizmo]

Bernie,
It works well with the new KL3 also. Those switches shown are clickies and I have not attempted to gut any of them but have doubts as to modability. You need old LOTC switch.

[270winchester]

Hey bernie:

the run time is on a new KL3, and with the optics the lower output is extremely useful in lighting things up with limited amount of output.

I love this thing

Nick

[Kiessling]

Thanx guys! Feels good to be dumb !

Don, e-mail inbound ...

bernie

[kongfuchicken]

One question: is the TK model from the shoppe come in HA only?

edit: never mind.

[wquiles]

kongfuchicken,

Unless the Shoope started recently to offer a full kit with the host included, the shop's TK classic switch means that the guts of the switch come already assembled vs. providing you with the individual switch pieces. As such, the host switch outer shell (the part that is normally HA or Black) is not included.

If you look at my initial posts of the prototype, the TK kit would be just like the one I showed in my photo - guts already assembled, but lacking an outer shell. You still need a host switch housing (a donnor part) which you will gut out and replaced with the new parts from the Shoope.

Will

[leukos]

I just installed mine in a G2 with a 3watt BOG. I think I have the 60ohm resistor with 2 RCR123. I think this will make a great beater/work light. I think I'll need to add a little loctite to keep it from unscrewing itself. After spending all the $$ on this I probably could have just got one of Don's A2's, but I do like nitrolon. Cheers!

[StoneDog]

Only a certified flashaholic would see a G2 (~$35) with a BOG 3W module (~$35) not to mention a custom two-stage tailcap (>$40?) and bleeding edge R123s (~$24/kit) as a "beater/work light". Sounds like a great light and durable too. And, when/if the Nitrolon gets to beat up you can always put the internals into a new specimen.

Has anyone tried one of these with an L5? The L5 has been calling my name lately...

Jon

[tylerdurden]

My M3T is soooooo happy now.

[Illuminated]

StoneDog,

You make a good point about us flashaholics - but I EDC this G2 http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=85109 because it is non-conductive. I frequently find my hands (and flashlight) inside confined enclosures having exposed 480VAC 3-phase terminations, and usually shorting phases together or to the grounded metal enclosure results in injury or death (bummer...)

I suppose I could just buy an off-the-shelf nonmetallic light for this need - but where's the fun in that??

I love this stuff...

John