McE2S for C/M bodies - prototype evaluated !!!

[wquiles]

John,

You are correct - I can't think of a better light for your working conditions - most excellent choise!

Will

[wquiles]

Since this is now part of a stickie/FAQ, I re-wrote the very post to make it easier for folks to buy their own parts from the Shoope and assemble their own two-level switch for "C" bodies

If anyone finds errors or areas that needs further clarifications, please let me know so that I can keep the first post updated properly.

Thanks again to Don and Wayne for making this switch upgrade a reality

Will

[jtice]

This is probably a stupid question, oh well, wont be my first....

I want to add a 2 stage switch to my L5.
Which has a great clickie switch,
does modding it to 2 stage eliminate the clickie?
Is there any way to have it clickie and 2 stage?
I would like it to work just like stock, but also be able to tighten it alittle for low, and tighten it all the way for high.

~John

[wquiles]

Unfortunately, this does not work for the clickie type switch, since the guts are completely different. I had one clickie switch break and I have the left over parts to know first hand that the push-to-press and the clicke are trully different

However, the L5 would be absolutely awesome with a two level push-to-press switch. It would be just like an Aleph on steroids

Will

[jtice]

Thanks Will, bummer

I figured that though.
I guess I will still do the 2 stage, but MAN I like the M2/L5 clickie !!!!!!! :cry:

Wonder what ohm I need though.
I will be running it off Pilas and 18650s

~John

[wquiles]

John,

I have a self-made/home-made/whatyoumighcallit L5 by using a bored-out L5 body (to fit an unprotected 18650 cell), a BugOutGear 5W module (but using it with the 3W reflector so that it will fit on a regular "C" series head), a shock-isolated M2 bezzel, and the two-level switch as shown in this post (with 30ohms).

I really like the combo for inside the house use a lot!. True, I don't have the higher-drive of the L5 (the 5W BOG module is under-driven, even more so from a 4.2v cell), but it works great becuase of the flood-type beam comming from the 5W. I also have pretty much no heat and LONG runtimes

To give you an idea, this underdriven 5W on low is more-or-less like the lowest level on an U2 that I used to have. So on your L5 is will probably at least one level higher. Of course on high it is simply back to your normal L5 levels. I trully beleive that it will make your L5 a lot more practical since you don't have to use at full level all of the time.

If you try it, please let me know how it went

Will

[rmacias]

I just ordered the McE2S for my L5. Does anyone know what the lumen output will be with the 22 ohm resistor?

Robert

[wquiles]

Given that measuring LUMENS requires an Integrating Sphere ($10-20K !!!) I doubth that you will get an specific answer. If you look at the FAQ:
FAQ: McLux-Aleph Series ...

you will find a table with several 5W LED's with various resistor values and the relative power based on the battery combination. That should give you an "idea" of what you will get.

By the way, I personally feel that your L5 with a two-level switch will be an awesome light

Will

[rmacias]

Given that measuring LUMENS requires an Integrating Sphere ($10-20K !!!) I doubth that you will get an specific answer. If you look at the FAQ:
FAQ: McLux-Aleph Series ...

you will find a table with several 5W LED's with various resistor values and the relative power based on the battery combination. That should give you an "idea" of what you will get.

By the way, I personally feel that your L5 with a two-level switch will be an awesome light

Will

$10-20K Ouch! I didn't realize that measuring lumens could be so expensive.

I've been researching on here for a torch that could be the ultimate universal tool and have concluded that a 2-stage L5 would be the ticket.

SUREFIRE ARE YOU LISTENING!

Thanks for the link, this diagram describe the switch nicely.

[leukos]

After using this 2-stage tail cap for a few weeks now in my G2 w/ BOG, I think this will be a permanent setup for me. I did have to tweak it a little to get it to operate smoothly. For one, I think the o-ring that fits in the battery tube is just a bit too wide. I swapped it with one that doesn't drag so much. I also removed a little of the battery spring to make it behave a little more like the two-stage action on the A2/L2. I also added some foam inside the rubber boot for a little more solid feel. And of course a little loctite on the threads. Now I think it is just perfect. Thanks McGizmo!

[genuinedraft]

Need some advice on which resistor setting to order for a two stage switch for a SF KL3 running on both a single 17670 and two 17670's. I would like the lower setting to be used for lighting my way when walking the dog or lighting up the inside of the tent on a camping trip. Enough light to see and navigate close up but not bright enough that it totally destroys my night vision. Any recommendations?

[wquiles]

The problem is that the "right" value with one 17670 cell might give you too much light with two 17670 cells, so I would recommend to start with 30 ohms. For a few bucks you can always buy additional resistor boards which you can change yourself, so if the 30 ohms is too bright or not bright enough, you can pick a different resistor value (larger resistor value will make it dimmer).

Will

[Lunal_Tic]

Will this require additional steps to install into a G2? It seems a couple of posts mentioned extra steps but weren't clear. IIRC Illuminated made a whole new button top for his.

Also are these going the way of the Dodo and Aleph? I just got my first light together with one in a SW01 and it works well. I'm hoping I'm not in a time rush to pick up another one.

-LT

[wquiles]

I though Don stated that the G2's were different and that it would not work without some custom parts? I do have a G2 at home but I have not tried getting the switch out and dissasembling it. Maybe when I get home from my current business trip ...

Will

[Lunal_Tic]

Thanks Will,

If you could give it a try I'd appreciate it. Any word on availability?

-LT

[Illuminated]

I made a new button top for mine because a fat O-ring just didn't seem to work the best for me in the G2 rubber cap. YMMV...

John

[cy]

bump for some nice info...

my L6 really need two stages.. thanks,


edit: arggghhh the shoppe is out of stock...

[KDOG3]

Oh man. I did hear they were going to stop making them I don't know why they would though. Maybe someone will sell you theirs....

[leukos]

edit: arggghhh the shoppe is out of stock...

Still looks like a dozen or so left if you don't mind assembling them yourself: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...cPath=48_56_70

[cy]

thanks for the link... just ordered a set with extra parts.

not doing too good... finding things at shoppe???

Still looks like a dozen or so left if you don't mind assembling them yourself: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...cPath=48_56_70

[Lunal_Tic]

Aren't these slated to hit the chopping block? IIRC these are destined for the history pages as are the Aleph parts.

-LT

[benighted]

They're sold out and I need one...

[Xygen]

Are there any alternatives? Or hope for resupply?

[PhotonAddict]

Thought I'd revive this thread rather than start a new one with my question.... I noticed that the Shoppe has 2 type of McE2S switches - a "2 stage DIY kit" and a "2 stage FLAT DIY kit". http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...8_56_58&page=2

Does anyone know the difference between the two and can either one be used for this mod?

[leukos]

The FLAT McE2s is for the Flat Aleph tailcap. The other McE2s works with SF E series tailcaps. To use the McE2s on a C or M series tailcap, you will need a classic PCB contact board: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...cPath=48_56_70

[starfiretoo]

The FLAT kit uses a flat boot. See this link: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=569

The regular kit uses the domed boot that you see in the picures. http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=407

Use the "2 stage DIY kit".

Important to order the right value resistor for the convertor used.

Thought I'd revive this thread rather than start a new one with my question.... I noticed that the Shoppe has 2 type of McE2S switches - a "2 stage DIY kit" and a "2 stage FLAT DIY kit". http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...8_56_58&page=2

Does anyone know the difference between the two and can either one be used for this mod?

[PhotonAddict]

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

[yoyoteen]

just ordered an assembled MCC2s for my C2, only waiting for shipped, but when i tried to pull out the core from existing tail cap, seems dosnt work even with force...... can anybody gimme help...

[wquiles]

Have you already looked at the pictorial at the beginning of this thread (post #1)? Which step is not working for you?

Will

[yoyoteen]

Will,

my problem is on step 2(picture #1), after removed spring, i use a needle nose pliers and try to pull out the core , but dosnt work, anything i miss?