1. Introduction
The purpose of this document is to provide a step by step guide in order to build a 240+ lumens Tri-Star and/or a 360+ lumens Quad-Lux. The build processes are almost identical for a MagLite C | D host.
1b. Difficulty level (3.5 / 5.0)
Minimal experience with soldering is required.
Total time requires ranges from 1-2 hours depending on skill level.
2. Tools & Parts List
Required Tools:
- 1x Soldering station
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key
- 1x Needle nose pliers
- 1x Wire stripper
- 1x Razor blade (MagC only)
Required Parts:
- 1x MagLite C | D (new version)
Serial # must begins with a "C" or "D"
- 3x Luxeon Stars (for PTS)
- 4x Luxeon Emitters ( for PQS)
- 1x PTS or PQS heat sink
- 3x-4x IMS S020XA reflector (Sandwich Shop)
- 1' 24 gauge wires
2b. Host & Battery configuration
Tri-Star Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Quad-Lux Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion in parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series/parallel (2x2) *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Tri-Star Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag4C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series
Quad-Lux Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 3x14500 Li-Ion in series - Luxeon in series
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag5C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series
* Recommended for reasonable performance/size
3. MagLite Disassembly (5 minutes)
Let's start with the removal of the light head. Rotate the head counter clockwise for 15 rotations, and then the head should just fall off.
Next is the removal of the stock MagLite switch assembly. Depress the button to the ON position then pinch the rubber switch cover to remove it (Figure 3-1). Alternatively, you could also use a needle nose plier to pinch the rubber cover. With the Allen key, place it inside the switch hole and rotate counter clockwise to loosen the setscrew (Figure 3-2). The switch assembly should easily slide out the rear (Figure 3-3).
* Figure 3-1
* Figure 3-2
* Figure 3-3
4. Switch Modification (30 minutes)
Using the Allen key unscrew and remove the focusing wheel (Figure 4-1).
Pull out the metal grounding strip with the needle nose plier.
* Figure 4-1
* Figure 4-2
For the MagLite "C" only
Using a small razor blade, gently pry open the switch assembly (Figure 4-3). Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.
* Figure 4-3
Remove the front contact piece with needle nose pliers.
* Figure 4-4
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip ¼" of the Teflon shielding, then insert the wire into the front contact piece previously removed (Figure 4-5). Apply some solder on the wire so that it does not slip out.
* Figure 4-5
Install the contact piece into the switch body and reassemble the switch core.
* Figure 4-6
For the MagLite "D" only
Push the switch core out of its housing. Disassemble the core by separating the blue from black cover. Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.
* Figure 4-7
Remove one of the two metal leaf spring and sand down the "V" section in preparation for soldering.
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Solder the wire to the leaf spring.
* Figure 4-8
Optional: Using a hacksaw (or band saw), cut off the switch pedestal. This will provide more space inside the light head for the converter or other electronics.
Now reassemble the contact piece and the switch core and switch body.
For either MagLite "C" or "D" body
Cut the metal grounding strip, sand the tip to make it easier for soldering then bend it into an "O" shape.
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Place the stripped wire inside the "O" and apply solder.
Now reassemble the metal strip with setscrew to the switch assembly.
Cut a small ¼" section of shrink tubing to hold the two wires together.
Optional: Strip the wire and using a crimper (or needle nose pliers) to connect to the female end of the bi-pin connector.
* Figure 4-9
5. Light Engine Assembly (30 minutes)
Thoroughly clean the heat sink (PTS | PQS) with alcohol.
Mix the two part thermal epoxy then apply a thin coat to the back on the Luxeon. Note: A single drop of epoxy will go a long way.
Place the Luxeon inside the heat sink recess pocket. For the PQS, just rotate the emitter it will lock itself once it falls in the pocket. DO NOT ATTEMPT to line up the emitter leads to the vertical epoxy relief channels on the PQS. Those channels are designed for the excess epoxy to escape out. The emitter leads should be 45° off axis.
* Figure 5-1
Optional: If you plan to use this with a converter then place the Luxeon so that they the word "Lumileds" point in one direction for PTS. This will reduce the need of extraneous wiring which will decrease efficiency of the circuit.
Place the assemble heat sink into the light head. Install the SO20XA reflectors and the lens. Tighten the lens retaining ring so that the reflectors no longer move around. At this point there should be enough force between the lens and heat sink to press the Luxeon in place.
* Figure 5-2
Let it cure for at least 20 minutes.
Optional: If you're using the bi-pin connector then it's time to prepare the male end. Connect the negative wire of the bi-pin header to the negative end of the Luxeon and v.v. for the positive.
Apply solder to the six solder pads closest to the center hole. Strip and cut two pieces of wires to form connecting bridge between the pads. Hint: Using a needle nose plier to hold the wires while soldering will prevent the wires from rolling.
* Figure 5-3
* Figure 5-4
6. Final Light Assembly (20 minutes)
Install the switch assembly back into the light body. Center the button. With an Allen key tighten the set screw. Reinstall the rubber switch cover.
Optional: If you are using a converter such as BadBoy, Downboy, Fatman or nFlex, it is recommended that you pot the converter against the light body to help cool the converter.
Recommended: Apply a generous amount of thermal grease (Artic Silver) to the outer body thread then screw on the light head without the heat sink or reflectors (Figure 6-1).
* Figure 6-1
Apply generous amount thermal grease to the shoulder of the light head (Figure 6-2).
* Figure 6-2
Connect the bi-pin connector male & female end. Insert the light engine so that it's seated squarely on the shoulder. Rotate the heat sink half a revolution counter clockwise for the wires to fold internally. This will also help spread the thermal grease evenly around the heatsink.
Install the three IMS SO20XA reflectors.
Install the lens and tighten the lens bezel retaining ring.
Hint: To avoid the lens from rotating and getting scratch, use a cloth and your finger press down on the lens.
* Figure 6-3
Note: If for any reason your UCL is not "Ultra Clear", I recommend cleaning it with a little Windex and newspaper. Try to avoid direct hand contact with the UCL because your hand will leave a layer of oil on the glass.
7. "Let There Be Light!"
Congratulation, the light is now finish. It's time to have fun. Just don't look directly into the light.
* Figure 7-1
======================================== ============== Side Notes ==================
Excellent guide, very clear and easy to follow! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
And just one humble suggestion/question--I remembered reading somewhere that George's board(nflex or uflex?)might not required potting, and IIRC, potting actuallly might make it not work properly(?). I did a few nflex without bothering to pot them in the past, but what did your experience tell you? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
If you pot, make sure to use Artic alumina, as the others can be slightly capacitive and mess up the electronics. Potting also keeps it from knocking around. You can also use plain 2 part 2ton devcon epoxy to pot with too.
If you are direct driving, then wiring the luxeons will look different than what is shown here. What is shown here is hooking them up in series for a driver that supports that.
Typically most of George's drivers (fatman, nflex, and VIP) are very efficient 90%
With single Lux type it's not much of a problem. In the worse case scenario LuxV @ 1000 mA would only mean ~0.7W of heat thru the converter. If you don't run it for a long period of time (10+ minutes) it's no problem.
With multi-lux it's another story. For 3xLux (TW0J) @ 1000mA it's 11W of power. with over 1W of heat accumulating on the converter. It will heat up much quicker. When the thermal shutoff circuit kicks in you'll get a strobing effect (if you're lucky) or even potentially frying the switcher.
My experience have only been with fatman for multi-lux. I still have not did a multi-lux FlexMag yet but I figure the affect would be the same.
What kind of beam pattern do those IMS reflectors put out? I'm looking to build a multi LED, flood type light. If I want throw I've got a Mag74 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
I like the bi-pin connector - makes it easy to swap things around. I've had Tri-Star mod on my "to-do" list for some time. I think it's time for me to increase its priority [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Silly question, will a tri-star run off 2D cell NiMHs and a Fatman driver or is it best to use 6xAA NiMhs? (i'm guessing the current draw would be too high with the former)
I have nearly got all the parts together to do this mod - I have a nflex and am concerned now with the amount of heat produced and how it is possibly going to damage the switch or nflex.
Are there any tested/proven methods to avoid costly damage through heat build-up?
Thanks guys - and Moda: AWESOME JOB on the guide!! I was looking for something just like this. I need a step by step help through this, could you please possibly add a couple of detailed pics of the ideal way/position of mounting the driver?
I'd prefer a non-messy solution, no grease all over the components if possible, though I'll do whatever is most recommended.
i think you overrated the difficulty , i was able to do the Tri-Star mod, with a hammer and a bandsaw [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hahaha.gif[/img]
now if you had had this tutorial up when i did mine, it might have been "normal"
Required Tools:
- 1x Radioshack 3$ 25W soldering gun
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key
- 1x Old roach clip
- 1x Wire Stripper, or front teeth, whichever you can find
- 1x steak knife , sharp
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ] VidPro said:
Required Tools:
- 1x Radioshack 3$ 25W soldering gun
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key
- 1x Old roach clip
- 1x Wire Stripper, or front teeth, whichever you can find
- 1x steak knife , sharp
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Strange...I needed a box of bandaids after I finished mine. Soldering irons are hot and X-ACTO knives are sharp. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
VWTim IMS SO20XA provides one of the most useable light beam. It's a compromise btw throw & flood. If you want more flood use the 17mm counterpart.
PhotonAddict: You answered it yourself [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] BTW fatman have a Vin min of 2.4V [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif[/img]
Pila_Power: I pot my driver directly on the side of the Mag light. BTW the PDF version is here .
VidPro: I rated the difficulty level as follows:
1. Drop in module. eg. sandwich, Diamond
2. Light assembly/dis-assembly. eg. Mag74, Mag85
3. Soldering, minor electronic understanding.
4. Soldering, dremeling, lathe, mill, converter assembly.
5. Complete light design. eg. tvodrd & PEU & Endeavor
You just crack me up Wire Stripper, or front teeth ... . I try to keep this light inexpensive. With your recommendation my dentist will become a millionaire (if she's not already one!).
Does the bottom of the sink need to be beveled to get it to sit down all the way in the mag head?
I'm starting to find a few maglite c cells that have, a not so squared landing for the heatsink, preventing the heatsinks from both you and b2eze from sitting down all the way into the mag head lately.
These have been 2c and 3c black Maglites that have been real wierd about this thus far.
The D cell PTS units I got from you a while back did sit down all the way into the D cell unit's head perfectly.
In fact, cpf'er idleprocess reviewed a 3x3 TYOH with one of your pts heatsinks that fit PERFECTLY. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
The poor overdriven TYOH stars have not failed me yet in that one. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
Edit:
Photonfanatic now has thermal compounds as well to go with your emitters/stars for these kits. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
PhotonAddict: or you could go with 3C NiMH in your 2D mag. That's what I did. Direct drive, I used 3 TXOK luxeons, and wired them all parallel. With the 3 NiMH Direct Drive is just about perfect. You need to make sure your luxeons are "K" Vf. You use a 1" PVC pipe to sleeve the batteries, and cut the stock tail cap spring so it fits where the spare bulb did. Then you grind off the anodizing at the bottom of the tailcap for the spring to make contact...
Just a thought... No convertors, and you can use 5,000mah NiMH C's... That's what I run, works great [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Hey modamag, did you ever see my "prolight" rgb thing?
i used your Tri-star sink on it.
Prolight "stars" UFO type round stars, and luxes will all fit that thing. so its versitile too [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubb...;Number=983965
That's very good point for considering the efficiency and the potential of higher heat buildup damaging the board. I still havn't used the Tri lux sink from you yet, and am waiting for the Fatflex to complete the story. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
As for single lux III/V nflex mods, with usages of more than 30-60 min at highest drive level(1A) at a time, I had so far observed no heat damage/problem for the nflexes without the potting amongst the few that I have built. And one of my friend did a Tri-lux III with a nflex a while ago, and it seems to be ok so far without the potting...but I never did a fatman modded yet, so it is great to have read your article here about your approach.
Btw, best of luck to you with your current projects and your upcoming 'big' project! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Great tutorial.. i have a feeling more and more people will have a 3 or 4 lux mod in their mag... those PQS and PTS are a work of art... the only alternative suggestions i have is that it's possible to do this mod with zero mod to the light.
this picture shows how i supply the ground path and hold my fatman driver in a 'can' i made from 3/4 copper tubing (dremeled in a little 'llp' to hold it).. 'look ma, no wires'..
Now with this design i had to remove the anodizing from the inside of the battery tube, but in my next one i'll have that little copper spring soldered to the ground pad on the fatman and bent in an 'L' shape to touch the side of the PR base.. for this to work.. the total height of the fatman 'can' and contact has to be less than 9mm.. but it's a 'no mod' solution.. don't have to take apart the switch or grind on the mag body.
In my design, the board of the fatman is heat-sinked to the emitter sink, which has plusses and minuses.. the switcher chip has some insulation from the outside world, so it is possible to get my light into 'blinky' mode where the switcher chip overheats.. but i'm running about 18W or more through 4 emitters from one driver.. i have a feeling that the 3-emitter solution and less than 1000mA would not even have a problem.
Hope a bunch of people make quads and tris out of this now... it is 'the bomb' and one of the hardest things in the process is getting the emitters lines up purdy... when at the shop get some of those TV1J stars that are on sale and use the PTS.. it could not be eaiser to wire or assemble than that.
that is just beautiful to see that copper hand-made heatsink.. it's why i love CPF so much.. seeing the inventive creative stuff that people do..
hope that pot is logarithmic.. it is very nice to have dimmer control, huh? I have a digital-pot solution that i hope i can share with the world soon.. still one of my 'top secret' developments.. i made my VIP 8-levels using a special logarithmic digital pot, and i'd like to incorporate it into the fatman solutions as well.. but i don't like the added dial.. prefer twisting the head, so still working on solutions for that..
in the mean time, check out my RT4 thread.. it shows a hint of my control mechanism.. it has a bar that goes through the fatman can... like the aluminum cylinder i see on the back of your heat sink.. and presses on something as the body tube comes toward the heat sink.
That is an old solution the new solution is much cleaner.. i need to get it all incorporated into just the heat sink so it is purely plug-n-play.
you are welcome on the fathack.. did you get the low-volt cutout incorporated too? make sure you see the latest entry on my RT4 page about that.. needs some tweaking to get the value set correctly.. i will have a better idea soon what value is needed... if you see that post later i will have an update of the exact values i used for 3 LiONs.
Modamag - Thanks for the walkthrough and also the helpful PMs you replied to...I just finished my Tri-Star (3xTW0K DD on 3C in a 2D Mag) and was amazed at the brightness of this thing, even on half-used batteries! Gotta go to the store and get a DMM and some good C's - anyone got a favorite? Thanks again Modamag - great work!
I was trying to think of a way to run the Tri-Star in a short body on a small number of cells - 3C in a 2D seemed like a better fit for me than 8AA in a 2D wired in series. I agree - this thing is amazing - and darkness is falling outside...
Great minds must think alike. I just picked up a silver 2D mag from Target's sale a few hours ago along with some Duracell C's, and ordered all the remaining parts from modamag.
Another nice feature using the 3C in a 2D body is that you have good battery flexibility. If you cut the spring down just right, and use the bottom half, you can now use D's or C's in your light. Push the spring upside down all the way into your de-anodized tailcap to use your 3C's for good brightness. In a pinch, though, you can flip the spring to its stock orientation, take out the sleeve, and use 2D's to power your light at a lower but still respectable level. This would be handy when camping, during power outages, etc, where you've run down your supply of C's and can only find D's. Also, D's taken from someone else's incandescent flashlight will still power up the LEDs after the hotwire goes dead. You've got to cut the spring just right to be able to seat 3C's deep enough and also retain enough spring to properly tension the 2D's.
Got mine built this afternoon, Excellent is all I can say.
FWIW: Current draw
3C Duracell Alkaline's in 2D body
3x TWOJ wired in parallel
DD, no resistor
Cap draw test netted 2.4 amps after settling down for ~20 seconds. 800mA's each, which sounds perfect in my book
Awesome. I am building another because the first I did was a 3xTW0K which turned out to be a bit too safe - 1.5A at the cap. I am shooting for ~700mA and the parts are en route for another DD 3xTV1J - sounds like I will be able to hit it. I pulled the 3xTW0K Tri-star out to put on a Fatman.
Tri-Star | Quad-Lux Build Tutorial
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