I took a break from my modding queue today and started tinkering
with my McLuxIII PD HA Natural. With some help from dat2zip
who created the board, I got it to do 3 stages 30 / 400 / 950 !!!
Sorry Don, I "broke" kilroy's nose with a dremel!!
Then I isolated one of kilroy's connections and added a sense resistor.
Now I have a 3 stage PD with all three levels fully regulated!
Yay! On high, it breaks 2000 lux!
Please don't ask me to mod your PD cuz my queue is long right now...
I need to shorten my list and I'll be back with some picts [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ] Kiessling said:
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]
Pics would be cool!
Do you think this mod will be reliable over long usage?
bernie
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't see why not as each leg of kilroy takes the same amount of
flex as before... actually i adjusted it every so slightly so that
each stage is exactly 60 degrees apart - exactly the distance of
each of the flutes [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
If I'm not mistaken I think that's something that Don toyed with early in the design stage. Nice to hear that it actually works. Nothing like tearing apart perfectly-working equipment! That's my favorite thing to do too! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
I have thought about a contact that kilroy would hit prior to the final contact of the piston sleeve with the contact ring but have not visited it. I think for strictly twisty, three levels is very doable and dependable when the adjustment is set right. For the momentary switching, it can get a bit more difficult to induce enough resistance at each level to allow you to keep from overshooting but I admit to little bench testing on that proposition; a couple tail switches some time ago and that's it.
How is your mod with the momentary piston activation? As long as the individual kilroy legs don't bind up or get torqued, I think you will be fine on service. If there is no sharp edge to gouge and stick, you should be good to go! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
If you are getting 900 mA then I assume you are using a Li-Ion?
Where are those pics? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I am waiting for 15 minutes now ... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]
bernie
I have thought about a contact that kilroy would hit prior to the final contact of the piston sleeve with the contact ring but have not visited it. I think for strictly twisty, three levels is very doable and dependable when the adjustment is set right. For the momentary switching, it can get a bit more difficult to induce enough resistance at each level to allow you to keep from overshooting but I admit to little bench testing on that proposition; a couple tail switches some time ago and that's it.
How is your mod with the momentary piston activation? As long as the individual kilroy legs don't bind up or get torqued, I think you will be fine on service. If there is no sharp edge to gouge and stick, you should be good to go! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
If you are getting 900 mA then I assume you are using a Li-Ion?
[/ QUOTE ]
After I spaced out the contacts so twisty is 60 degrees apart, I can
easily control the brightness tactical style - I believe the spring
resistance isn't linear so it FEELS like you have to push even harder
to reach 900. But it's not any more difficult than the two stage
setup. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I filed down the kilroy cut with a triangular file and then went over
it with 900 grit sand paper so it's as smooth as sugar.
Yes I use li-ion exclusively... I have a huge collection of primary
cells that I never use (that came with lights). I believe I've
only used up one primary lithium ever... and that one came with a
light [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
The 400ma is quite nice as it extends the runtime a bit more.
It still breaks the 1000 lux mark. I wish between 400 and 900
there would be more gap, but I did try 1.6A but it was a bit
excessive and only lasted in regulation for about 10 seconds
before it started flashing.
[ QUOTE ] Kiessling said:
Where are those pics? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I am waiting for 15 minutes now ... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]
bernie
[/ QUOTE ]
Sorry... It can't be tonight because of an evening engagement.
I used a HUGE sense resistor that isn't necessary, but thats
what I had on hand at the moment... If I even do these for folks,
it'll be nice and clean...
bernie if you can imagine... all I did was make an incision with an
exacto knife to isolate the right kilroy leg (nose pointing you)
and connect that leg with led- with a .15 sense resistor [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Then I cut the nose of course.
Thats all, but it takes some precision and patience. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Hey ... just kidding [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Sounds great !
Do you get a significant difference between mid and high to justify the labour invested in this?
Hm ... forget the question ... I'll wait for the pics tomorrow, have fun tonight [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
I have thought about a contact that kilroy would hit prior to the final contact of the piston sleeve with the contact ring but have not visited it. I think for strictly twisty, three levels is very doable and dependable when the adjustment is set right. For the momentary switching, it can get a bit more difficult to induce enough resistance at each level to allow you to keep from overshooting but I admit to little bench testing on that proposition; a couple tail switches some time ago and that's it.
How is your mod with the momentary piston activation? As long as the individual kilroy legs don't bind up or get torqued, I think you will be fine on service. If there is no sharp edge to gouge and stick, you should be good to go! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
If you are getting 900 mA then I assume you are using a Li-Ion?
[/ QUOTE ]
Hey Don, didn't you show me your 3-stage tailswitch at SHOT Show 200-FOUR, or a year-and-a-half ago? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]
In fact it was around that same time I was coming out with the VIP, and to your credit you did say you weren't pursuing it due to the difficulty (as you also stated above) of accurately attaining three levels without over- or under-shooting them...unless of course you use two hands...[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif[/img]
Aw man this is way awesome!!! I'm never going back to direct
drive junk! This is the way LED's should be driven!
I just made some runtimes off my r123's rated 700mah.
The medium power ran just shy of 2 hours!! With a flat output
just over 1000 lux! (I have a UWOJ in it mind you [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] )
On high it lasted 40 minutes before it started flashing!
And it broken 2000 lux! (I had to cool it with a fan)
I used to think direct drive was so cool. Now there is no way on
earth I'll ever settle for unregulated lights anymore - even with
newest fad for PWM junk found in the latest lionheart and lioncubs
(which isn't even worth running below 30% duty cycle because it comes
to like 40% efficiency and counting down - also emitters will die a
horrible premature death) Don's PD actually worked out of the box unlike what I experienced in the the aformentioned lights
By the way, the switch feels silky smooth just like before. I spaced
it out enough so it's quite comfortable to twist one and even tactical
I can control the 3 levels without any effort!
This one's going to be my edc for a long time. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Glad I am not the only one tearing apart perfectly good lights.
It will be interesting to see if the 3 level twisty or the electronic switch designed by George and used in Bulk light becomes the standard. I can see merits in both.
Dang you 4sevens!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
I guess I will have to mod one just to see for myself! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img] Unfortunately, unless one is using Li-Ion cells, I don't think there is enough range in lumens to really justify the three stage since you are limited at about 600 mA at the top end. I would suppose perhaps a 20/150/600 might make sense. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif[/img] Wayne and I briefly discussed two Kilroy contacts at one point but I am not convinced that three stages are called for until you break the 1 amp barrier on high. When the K2 comes out, I think the story might change. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ] McGizmo said:
Dang you 4sevens!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
I guess I will have to mod one just to see for myself! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img] Unfortunately, unless one is using Li-Ion cells, I don't think there is enough range in lumens to really justify the three stage since you are limited at about 600 mA at the top end. I would suppose perhaps a 20/150/600 might make sense. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif[/img] Wayne and I briefly discussed two Kilroy contacts at one point but I am not convinced that three stages are called for until you break the 1 amp barrier on high. When the K2 comes out, I think the story might change. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif[/img]
Because of your wiz2 buck/boost setup, the li-ions work wonderfully
and approach runtime that you get out of cr123 primaries!! I recommend
AW's newest protected r123's rated 750mah. 10 cycles and you've
made your $ back on a pair of cells and a nano charger!
Like I mentioned before, it doesn't stress anything anymore that the
stock setup ... it feels just the same.
Charlie,
Yes, you saw a 3 stage that was pre the McE2S switches. I made a few that worked great and an equal number that didn't. Trying to keep the three stage in compliance with the E xeries tail cap architecture was just too much; at least for me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
4sevens,
If I used the rechargeables, I would be more interested to be sure! I have so many lights that with the exception of one or two, most benefit from the long shelf life of the primary lithiums and would suffer from self discharge if Li-Ion before they were drained from use! Now I would play with the Beast a lot more if it were Li-Ion! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif[/img]
I do have a HD45 that is powered by either an 18560 Li-Ion or 2x123 and it is worth trying a three stage on this one. Since it is strictly a twisty and the killroy spring(s) will be in contact with the rotating battery tube, this will also be a good test for stability of the single leg in contact with potential forces of torque on it.
Since you opened this can of worms, you can feed them! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ] McGizmo said:
4sevens,
If I used the rechargeables, I would be more interested to be sure! I have so many lights that with the exception of one or two, most benefit from the long shelf life of the primary lithiums and would suffer from self discharge if Li-Ion before they were drained from use! Now I would play with the Beast a lot more if it were Li-Ion! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif[/img]
I do have a HD45 that is powered by either an 18560 Li-Ion or 2x123 and it is worth trying a three stage on this one. Since it is strictly a twisty and the killroy spring(s) will be in contact with the rotating battery tube, this will also be a good test for stability of the single leg in contact with potential forces of torque on it.
Since you opened this can of worms, you can feed them! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually Don, you would be surprise by how low the li-ion self-discharge
rate really is! I charged up some 18650's right up to 4.25v and forgot
them somewhere. When I discovered them two months later, they read
4.19v Not bad at all. No nicads and nimh's are another story, but
li-ions can probably sit for a whole year can still give you 85-90%
of what they got!
Now that HD45 is a beast we're waiting for. I'm going to sell off
my A3 and A1 to get it! I'm sure the forces on the secondary
spring will be greater with a rotating body. The PD doesn't suffer
as much from it since it rests on the lighter weight and freely
rotating piston! You definitely may want to bulk up mr. kilroy
for the HD45!
[ QUOTE ] McGizmo said:
Charlie,
Yes, you saw a 3 stage that was pre the McE2S switches. Trying to keep the three stage in compliance with the E xeries tail cap architecture was just too much; at least for me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, I was impressed nonetheless, especially since you already thought of it so long ago and discarded it as impractical. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ] MR Bulk said:
[ QUOTE ] McGizmo said:
Charlie,
Yes, you saw a 3 stage that was pre the McE2S switches. Trying to keep the three stage in compliance with the E xeries tail cap architecture was just too much; at least for me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, I was impressed nonetheless, especially since you already thought of it so long ago and discarded it as impractical. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Charlie,
These points you keep bringing up is irrelevant because
Don's McLuxIII PD a complete different light than his E series.
(which I can only assume you have not had a chance to play with)
The activation switch for the PD is in the head versus the
Aleph/E series which has the switch in the tail.
In the E series resistance is applied between the battery and the
circuit. It is hard to find a good resistor for each drive level
and does not give a flat output like in the high setting.
Plus, there are big efficiently losses when not on high.
Whereas the PD has the resistance applied in the buck/boost chip.
The biggest advantage is that the different levels are truly FULLY
regulated and produce a FLAT output on all levels!
Of course why would you care anything about flat and regulated
outputs. You lights are begging and screaming for mercy. Even
on the lowest levels because they're getting slammed way beyond
their designed specifications. Obviously you don't give a rat's
breakfast about regulated lights.
Oh I forgot you encourage people to use LED's like light bulbs!
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crackup.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ] 4sevens said:
[ QUOTE ] MR Bulk said:
[ QUOTE ] McGizmo said:
Charlie,
Yes, you saw a 3 stage that was pre the McE2S switches. Trying to keep the three stage in compliance with the E xeries tail cap architecture was just too much; at least for me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, I was impressed nonetheless, especially since you already thought of it so long ago and discarded it as impractical. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Charlie,
These points you keep bringing up is irrelevant because
Don's McLuxIII PD a complete different light than his E series.
(which I can only assume you have not had a chance to play with)
The activation switch for the PD is in the head versus the
Aleph/E series which has the switch in the tail.
In the E series resistance is applied between the battery and the
circuit. It is hard to find a good resistor for each drive level
and does not give a flat output like in the high setting.
Plus, there are big efficiently losses when not on high.
Whereas the PD has the resistance applied in the buck/boost chip.
The biggest advantage is that the different levels are truly FULLY
regulated and produce a FLAT output on all levels!
Of course why would you care anything about flat and regulated
outputs.
You lights are begging and screaming for mercy. Even
on the lowest levels because they're getting slammed way beyond
their designed specifications. Obviously you don't give a rat's
breakfast about regulated lights.
[/ QUOTE ]
Whoa there, David - okay, so you obviously don't like the LionHeart driver. And you also said in an earlier post in this same thread:
[ QUOTE ]
"...PWM junk found in the latest lionheart and lioncubs (which isn't even worth running below 30% duty cycle because it comes to like 40% efficiency and counting down - also emitters will die a horrible premature death)..."
[/ QUOTE ]
And yet - here you are modding several lights using these very same LionHeart drivers:
Plus I seem to recall you putting a LionHeart driver in one of the small Arcs, either the AA or AAA...
So - you dislike the LH driver, yet you use them in at least several of your own light mods.
So which way is it?
Could it be that it is whatever sells? I say this because I notice you also sold these lights to others, these lights that are, "begging and screaming for mercy", the ones that are, "PWM junk found in the latest lionheart and lioncubs (which isn't even worth running below 30% duty cycle because it comes to like 40% efficiency and counting down - also emitters will die a horrible premature death)".
Yet you sold them to unsuspecting fellow CPF'ers, for prices as high as $350? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif[/img]
That ARC4+ he modded was an expensive light to start with, and a pretty good amount of work went into the modification.
Trust me, I know first hand.
The ARC4+ light wasn't that efficient to start with, especially on high, since it was originally designed for lower current. You should know this. Foursevens mod fixed several deficiencies in the process.
As a "competitor" who makes mass quantities of lights in comparision, it is not very nice at all, to go in and thrash your "competitors" products, and imho, a lack of class.
Heck, he is just a modder, not a manufacturer, altering a light to improve upon the light's original design, as some would see it. Those same folks are purchasing the improved version.
Mr. Bulk, with your choice of emitter bins, it has been shown some of your LionCubs are slamming 1.76 Amps into the emitter. Now, do you know in fact that foursevens picked the same ill advised (imho) Vf bin that you did? Could it be that he chose a higher Vf bin that does not slam so much current into the emitter? Personally, I don't know what he choose.
So 4sevens, have I got this clear. You start to twist the head and the fist kilroy leg contacts the piston. This is low power.
Now turn 60°and the remaining kilroy leg touches the piston and you have medium power. And the final 60° turn brings the piston into contact with the 'main' contact ring for full power.
Very clever.
In an early thread there was some discussion as to how long the kilroy legs would stand up to the flexing. Any thought on the longevity of this mod as regards reliability?
Also could someone direct me to a link, if one exists, to the benefits/ differences of DD versus regulated drive. Seems to be two camps on this but there surely are merits for both?
[ QUOTE ] MR Bulk said:
So - you dislike the LH driver, yet you use them in at least several of your own light mods.
So which way is it?
Could it be that it is whatever sells? I say this because I notice you also sold these lights to others, these lights that are, "begging and screaming for mercy", the ones that are, "PWM junk found in the latest lionheart and lioncubs (which isn't even worth running below 30% duty cycle because it comes to like 40% efficiency and counting down - also emitters will die a horrible premature death)".
[/ QUOTE ]
Hmm.. I didn't intend for for this thread to got his way, but
you seem to have trashed the direction of this thread.
I have one simple question for you... Do you see me liquidating
any of my other quality lights? Hmm... Ask yourself this
question, why am I not selling off other lights?
Truth is, half a year ago, I like you bought into this method
of PWD DD lights and I bartered with the maker of LH/LC for
a few sets of these uC for my modding services. I've got a
handful of these chips that I still need to liquidate before
everyone jumps the PWM DD ship (note the recent mass sales of
your lights - which will inevidibly increase). I am merely
recovering my time and energy from my custom mods - unique ones
which noone else is doing. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
There you go... I keep my nice lights [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Trust me, when I've done with these sets of LH/LC circuits, I
won't be going back.
[ QUOTE ] 4sevens said:
I have one simple question for you... Do you see me liquidating
any of my other quality lights? Hmm... Ask yourself this
question, why am I not selling off other lights?
Actually all anyone has to do is a search of the Mod B/S/T and they will find you selling McGizmo Alephs and in fact even a U-binned PD. Is that not a "quality light"?
Please Dave, stick to the facts. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif[/img]
Because of the recent unfortunate events that seem to need more than one venting place this thread will be kept open, at least if it doesn't degrade any further.
[ QUOTE ] NewBie said:
Mr. Bulk, with your choice of emitter bins, it has been shown some of your LionCubs are slamming 1.76 Amps into the emitter. Now, do you know in fact that foursevens picked the same ill advised (imho) Vf bin that you did? Could it be that he chose a higher Vf bin that does not slam so much current into the emitter? Personally, I don't know what he choose.
Thoughts to consider.
[/ QUOTE ]
Already considered'em. Here's 4Sevens' own quote when asked if the TWOH(!!!) he chose to swap into his LionHeart was in any danger:
"TWOH is just fine. I've gone through 4 complete cycles with the TWOH and it's just as bright as ever. Brighter than a TWOJ I tried and even brighter than the TYAJ it came with."
"...as bright as ever." Due to your own theory about Luxeons dropping their Vfs, no doubt.
But don't take my word for this quote, you can see it for yourself in this THREAD.
Hello, please forgive my intrusion here. When walking amongst giants it's best to watch where they are going rather than where you are going.
First I'd like to apologize in advance for going off topic.
Second I'd like to ask where is Raggie, his interjection is needed here asap. Please take a step back folks.
Third Enjoy the holiday folks. My oldest son does not enjoy the bang part of fireworks, but he sure as heck loves flashlights. They make no noise (well most of the time anyway), they are bright as heck (the ones I own and mod and allow him to utilize) and they last a lot longer than any fireworks show I've ever seen.
Good luck and I hope we as a community can work this out.
Ctechlite ... you are right. We do not want this style of thread in the McGizmo forum. I will close it now ... the first thread closed because of a trainwreck in this forum [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
It is beyond repair I think and has strayed far away from the original topic.
4sevens .... feel free to start a new one about your mod anytime here.
McLuxIII PD modded three stages!!!
