Help On New Multimeter

MR Bulk

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Arrrghhh -- just came home with a new digital multimeter from R/S for $19.99. Featured autoranging, so I thought I was set.

But upon trying to measure milliamps from the back of one of my flashlights, it kept "OL"-ing, or overloading/overranging. Then I read the instructions and find out the max DC ma capacity is only 400!!!

Any recommendations for something with greater capacity, yet still in the same price range?
 

vcal

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Charlie, are you absolutely sure that thing doesn't have a 10A seperate plug-in jack--like most of 'em do.??

Edit: (I've Never seen a DVM yet that had current meas., but not that 10A jack).
rolleyes.gif

Even the $11.00 one I have does.
 

MrAl

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Hi there,

Nice web page remuen!

When i want to measure current that is
more then about 100ma or so, i use
a resistor in series with the current.
Then, turn the circuit on and measure the
voltage across the resistor. Because of
Ohm's law (see remuens page) the voltage
measured across this resistor tells you
exactly how much current is flowing in
the circuit. The added benefit is that
you dont drop as much voltage as you do
with a typical multimeter.

For example, lets say we use a 0.1 ohm resistor.
You wire this resistor in series with the
LED and connect your volt meter across the
0.1 ohm resistor. Now you turn on the power.
If you read 0.1 volts across the resistor that
means you have 1 amp flowing in the circuit.
Here is a short table:

0.01 volts -- 0.1 amps
0.02 volts -- 0.2 amps
0.03 volts -- 0.3 amps
0.10 volts -- 1.0 amps

Inspecting the table above shows that really
all we have to do is multiply the voltmeter
reading by ten (10) and we know the current
flowing through the circuit.

This is by far the better choice for measuring
current especially in switching circuits.
One note of caution though is that the tolerance
of the 0.1 ohm resistor should be 1% or better
if possible, and it should not be a wire wound type
if you intend to use it in switching circuits.

If you cant get a 1% resistor, you can 'calibrate'
your chosen resistor by connecting it in series
with another meter (set to read milliamps) and
hooked up to a circuit that draws about 390ma.
You then measure the current on the one meter and
the voltage across the 0.1 with your original meter and compare the results and come up with
a 'calibration' factor.
Lets say you measure 380ma with the current meter
and you see a reading of 0.040 volts across
your 0.1 ohm resistor. Multiplying 0.040 by
10 (as shown above) results in seemingly 400ma
of current flowing, but the current meter reads
380ma. This means we need to compute a
calibration factor for this resistor:
We simply take 380 and divide by 400 and we get
0.95 as our calibration factor.
Now, when we use this resistor ( and this resistor
only) in a circuit to measure current we have to
multiply by 10 to get the approximate current,
and then multiply the result by 0.95 to get the
more exact current measurement.
With the above reading of 0.040 volts, we would
thus get:
0.040 times 10 equals 0.400 amps,
and this times 0.95 equals 380ma.
380ma is the real current flowing through the
circuit.

The 'calibration' factor will usually range
from about 0.85 to about 1.15 for most resistors.
If you end up with a calibration factor of exactly
1.00, you got lucky and have found a resistor
that is exactly 0.10 ohms (or close enough).
It is of course entirely possible to buy
several 0.1 ohm resistors and try each one untill
you find one that has exactly 1.00 cal factor,
or if you find one that is slightly higher you
can parallel a much higher value resistor
untill it comes down to 1.00 exactly. In this
way, you dont have to compute a calibration factor
and so it makes making measurements a little
faster.
Also, if the cal factor comes out to close to
1.00 but not exactly, the small error may not
matter for most measurements anyway.

Good luck with your LED circuits,
Al
 

sunspot

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Thanks Al. You tell it in a way I can understand.

MrBulk. I have a Fluke 23 Autorange that has a plug for 300ma that works great. It also has a 10A outlet that I can't get any reading on (? pilot error). So I fall back to using a Weston Milliamp meter made about 40 years ago. A big huge monster of a meter. The dial is about 8 inches across with a paralex mirror under it. Max current is 600ma which is great for my use.
 

MR Bulk

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Hawaii
Wow, all these great and very technical replies. Thank you all, but I guess I just wanted a system where I can simply remove the back caps from a bunch of flashlights, stick the leads in (blk. to neg. end of battery and red to tube body) and get quick relative readings between several lights, as when comparing similar units in a production run. Thus an accurate reading to the exact Mah is not necessary since they would all be measured the same way (without needing a .1 ohm resistor)...
 

PsycoBob[Q2]

Enlightened
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Apr 9, 2002
Messages
518
R/S has something on the clearance rack- I just bought the local one out. $4.99 for an analog 0-500/0-1000mA DC meter. I got 2 of them, mostly for my LS-experiments. (my old DMM died, and my $400 fluke got the ampmeter part fried by a ZLT circuit.... the fuse didn't blow fast-enough. Fortunately, replacement cost is down below $175, and I don't use the ampmeter for much.... other than the LS.)
 

MR Bulk

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Hey PsychoBob, thanks, I'll check that out. Because otherwise (since it's autoranging) I like the meter just fine for its simplicity in all other uses.
 

Albany Tom

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Aug 18, 2002
Messages
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Location
Albany, NY
Originally posted by MR Bulk:
Wow, all these great and very technical replies. Thank you all, but I guess I just wanted a system where I can simply remove the back caps from a bunch of flashlights, stick the leads in (blk. to neg. end of battery and red to tube body) and get quick relative readings between several lights, as when comparing similar units in a production run. Thus an accurate reading to the exact Mah is not necessary since they would all be measured the same way (without needing a .1 ohm resistor)...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Try this:

Buy another set of leads for your meter. Solder a 6.8 foot length of 22 gauge wire (stranded) from the black banana plug to the red banana plug. This is your .1 ohm resistor. Set the meter to VOLTS, and you've got an amp meter. Just multiply the volt reading by 10 to get amps - your 400ma lamp would read 40mV.
 

MrAl

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Hi there again,

Albany Tom:
That's not such a bad idea really, for measurements
with dc or low freq ac.
The resistance only changes about 4% at an
elevated temperature of 18 degrees F above
the ambient that the wire was calibrated at.

I get 3.8 feet though for 0.1 ohms (not 6.8 feet)
at 29 degrees C.

While we are on the subject, brass makes a good
shunt material because it's got four times
the resistance of copper. You can get
flat brass strips at a hobby shop.

Flat strips are about the best shape because for
the cross sectional area the surface area is high.
This means the heat is dissipated better then
with round or other shapes. The more heat that
stays in the shunt means the less accurate it
is as the current level increases.

Good luck with your LED circuits,
Al
 

Albany Tom

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Location
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hmmmm...

Was using the copper wire table at http://www.brimelectronics.com/AWGchart.HTM

That was one of my 2am posts - did I wreck the math, or is 14.732 ohms/1000' incorrect?
(100' divided by 6.8' is about 147, so 147 x .1 ohm = 14.7) But I've been known to be bad at simple math!

Oh, and Mr. Bulk, keep in mind that a DMM has an accuracy typically specified as +/-xxx% +/- x digits. So if it says 4mV you could be looking at 3, or 6, or something, if the lowest range is 2.000 volts.
 

MrAl

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Hello again,

Im glad you mentioned that because what happened
was when i was doing a previous calculation
i was using #24 gauge wire and so i ended up
using that instead of #22 gauge wire for the
calculation. I keep several formulas handy
in my TI85 calculator so all i have to do
is enter the wire number and the length and
the ambient temperature.
It's kind of good that this happened though,
because i ended up looking at other references
and found the resistance of wires can vary quite
a bit, especially with stranded types.
14 ohms (per 1000) feet is kinda low, and
17.2 is a high. This leads me back to thinking
that the only way to get reasonably good readings
is to take the time to do a calibration step.
Check the reading with another meter before
assuming any length will be correct. Also, it's
a good idea to make sure the ambient temperature
at which the measurements are made are done
at approximately the same as that as when the
calibration is done.

Good luck with your LED circuits,
Al
 

Slick

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Apr 24, 2002
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Location
Nor Cal
When you make a purchase at Circuit Specialists over the internet, they'll throw in a free DVOM that they normally sell for $30.

Since they had the best price on the Wavetek/Meterman LM631 light meter at $84 I went for it. Was I suprised to actually get a pretty nice meter. It handles up to 20A and has a push-button on/off. I now use this meter more than my Wavetek because I hate ratcheting through a dozen settings everytime I want to take a quick reading.

I guess since you already have the LM631, you'll have to find something else you need
grin.gif
grin.gif
I've been holding off on the IR thermometer since you can get another free meter after 30 days..
shocked.gif
 

MR Bulk

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Hawaii
Hey Slick,

That $60 Radio Shack IR thermometer I just reurned is now ON SALE for $39.95. I shoulda waited instead of buying that Craftsman, the R/S model is so small and the shape is so handy...
 
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