Soldered Tabs???

Dukester

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With the exception of building a pack in parallel configuration and even then you can do without tabs if you build your pack with copper bars is there any other benefits of having soldered tabs?
 

Ginseng

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Feb 27, 2003
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1. Solder tabs are nickel strips that are resistance welded directly to the battery can. Because of this and the inherent flexibility of the strips, the connection is tough and handles flex stresses well.

2. The nickel takes to soldering very well and minimal prep is required.

3. Soldering tabs keeps heat away from the cell body itself.

When I have to use cells with tabs, I usually solder the cells together (via the tabs) into a set so I can charge the string all at once. Once they are broken in and equalized, I yank off the tabs and direct solder. Primarily this is for a stiffer joint but also provides for lower overall resistance.

Wilkey
 

Dukester

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Do you have a preferance when building stick packs? Flat tops or tabbed? I finally got my BatteryPack Jig made, unlike yours (free) mine cost $4 and change. Our HomeDepot out this way even charges for scraps, they call it Culled. I plan on purchasing six GP3700 Cells & Heat Shrink from Mike @ CheapBatteryPack next week and this will be my first attempt. Thanks for all the advice given.

Dave
 

Ginseng

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Dave,

Flat tops are the way to go for soldered packs. I don't see any reason that spiral-wound nimh cells of flat or button tops should react to soldering differently but the joints just seem more stable with flat tops.

I would not try to solder GP3700's as my first pack. Honestly, get yourself a bunch of dead alkie cells, Ds or Cs and practice on those. Believe me when I say it takes quite a few practice joints before you get the technique down. Also, if you haven't done so, I'd recommend you search out and read Jim Sexton's (js) excellent post on pack soldering. I forget what forum it's in but it is essential reading.

One of the most important things to do well is surface prep of the cell pads. The most difficult skill to master is bringing the cells together with just enough force and speed to create a thin, solid bond without splashing the solder.

There are lots of nuances to the operation. Do you peel the cell wrap and re-shrink them after soldering? How do you set up a pack that's a brick versus a stick? When do you attach connectors? Etc.

Oh, and buy an extra cell. I always buy at least one more than I need. In the extremely rare case that you get a bad GP cell, you'll have a backup ready to go.

Best of luck to you.

Wilkey
 

Dukester

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ok... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick2.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif Thanks...
 

Ginseng

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Hehe,

Bill, soldering little chemical bombs is man's work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick2.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/str.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Christo_pull_hair.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif

But seriously, once you get it down, it's straightforward and satisfying. Really, being able to roll your own packs is liberating. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hmm, maybe I DO need a vacation from this flashlight stuff. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Wilkey
 

N162E

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Jul 30, 2002
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Warren, MI
[ QUOTE ]
Ginseng said:
I yank off the tabs and direct solder

Wilkey

[/ QUOTE ]

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