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Which converter would you use?

pedalinbob

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Dec 7, 2002
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I will be building a few lights for family members at their request.
I will be converting their beloved 2D mags to LED.

I have considered doing a simple resistored 3C w/LuxIII...but, I would rather keep it in 2D format, so a converter is needed. I may build a smaller 2C for grandma.

I would like to drive-to-spec or "overdrive a bit" a nicely binned LuxIII, so...which converter should I use?

There is a BB750 (Rev 4), a BB1000 (Rev 4) and the MM Plus Wide Open.
I think there should be plenty of heatsink for the hotter-running Badboys.

Which would you use, and why?

Thanks,
Bob
 

knifebright

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Never mind the badboys. Go with a NexGen1000 with a lux3. It would never really be in full regulation but in safe mode with the 2 d-cells. It would probably max out at about 850ma and run for ever. The nexgen in safe mode behaves similiar to a madmax only better cooler and more efficient. Go for it you wont be disapointed.
jimmy
 

IsaacHayes

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What do you pot these with? I just made one with 2D and a BB750. I potted the driver in the o-sink with 2ton clear epoxy and that's it.

I went with the 750 as the 1000 would be too much for alkaline batts.
Why not go with a NG750 then? It might stay in regulation for a while...

Doesn't the NG have a lower max input current too, or higher turn on voltage? That's why I went BB as I figured input current would be high since were only starting with 3volts...


Also, when choosing your luxIII, get a J vf or H vf if you can. The lower Vf will give you more runtime as the driver won't have to work as hard.
 

Icarus

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If you are going to use Alkalines I should opt for the MM+ WO.
...and of course J or H Vf would be best. :)
 

knifebright

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If you pick up an e-can from the shop it fits inside the o-sinks. So you can pot the converter in the e-can and pot the whole thing inside the o-sink. Your right about alkaline but d-cells have much lower internal resistance so they can actually give quite a bit. Yes a 750 would be in regulation for a bit but the safe mode of the NG may not be true regulation but you'd be hard pressed to see a difference without a light meter. A badboy does take lower start up voltage but its far less efficient than the Nexgen. In fact i believe the safe mode to be more efficent than a badboys regular mode. A NG750 would be nice but you wont be disapointed with the NG1000 either.
jimmy
 

IsaacHayes

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Icarus - I almost went for that driver. What current does it run at approx with a luxIII say K Vf? 500ma?

knifebright - I potted it in the o-sink on one side. Normal epoxy is ok no? On used alks it's pulling ~1.6amps and I've ran them for 2 hours so far. The lower startup voltage will help me suck down (or use) near dead batteries better than the NG right?
 

knifebright

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Ya regular epoxy should be ok but the badboy's do run hotter than NG's. I think you'll suck batterys down well but i really love the NG safe mode. I've seen nexgens light up with batts that wont even flicker from other lights. The start up voltage you speak of is only relavant in full regulation. Yes the badboy will start up with less voltage but the nexgen will run for longer once its started. Also a nexgen will be much brighter in safe mode than a badboy that is not in full regulations. So instead of just having FUll Reg-moon mode, the NG give you an intermedate light level as in Full mode-safe mode-moon mode. The saft mode is kindof like a Madmax in the way it will give all the power it can for as long as it can. Best of both words in those NG conveters.

jimmy
 

wquiles

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Man - this is a very usefull thread!

Let me ask another specific question since I have been meaning to build me another 3W M*g light: For a 3D light, driving a 3W LED, using Alkalines only, which driver will run the longest and drain the batteries the most, with a drive of about 750-900mA?

Will
 

IsaacHayes

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With 3D you'll be above the Vf of the led (unless L bin) and then you'll be below it. So you need buck/boost. Wizard2 917 or whatever drive level you want is the best bet.
 

asdalton

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IsaacHayes said:
With 3D you'll be above the Vf of the led (unless L bin) and then you'll be below it. So you need buck/boost. Wizard2 917 or whatever drive level you want is the best bet.

I have a 3D Mag mod using a TV1J emitter and a Wizard2 set at 937 mA. It was definitely worth the effort in putting this mod together. The throw and usefulness outdoors--even with ambient lights--is outstanding.
 
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