1xAAA chinese e-bay light partII

[voodoogreg]

First off i sure am sorry for even starting this uproar in the "other" thread.
I am a major devotee of PG's AAA-P and have given them a good workout
on my last (music related) tour. I am happy with them and had talked to peter
Of my intent of being a sorta of ambassador in showing it to tour supply business's, crew, tech's, roadies tour managers to gauge interest and maybe open a new market for ARC.(not had a chance to call him with report but if you see this peter will do so tomorrow)
So I never would put up that thread as a subsitute for a real deal ARC. since lights with the ARC/peak form factor have been very poular since i joined CPF little over a year ago, I there have been many close knockoff's, but I agree this one (other then lack of appearent quality) is obviously a copy.

My first good LED light was a infinity ultra bought well before joining CPF. one must admit it sure bears major resemblance to the ARC AAA, but in AA size.

Is it possible that peter took a good idea, and made a smaller, better, brighter unit? I don't think that's wrong, many great product's have been done that way! And incedently love the peak's i have too (ultra po AAA lug bod, and N cell pocket) but gransee's light really cut's through and the blue'ish tint seem's to work better in fog (stage fog) is brighter then any 1xAAA 1xled i own, and is other then a few personal niggles built so good and so small it transends it's simplicity.

So I would never try to muscle a knockoff to you my bro's on this of all forum's!!!!
My feelings were as stated in the closed thread (good call empath BTW)
was for a light to give as presents or cheap gifts to turn on friends on to small LED keychain lights once the bug bites, as we all have learned
that once you see benifit's paying 40 bucks will make sense for a
people that think a solitaire is to much dough.
so for this i do apologize to Peter, and the CFPer's I angered.
But with one caveat:
I have never seen outcries from us when a knockoff of a m@g, or
other light deemed a copy or inferior, are often brought up here. (esp If as one argument goes Some of our fav light's do have foreign parts, a mag i believe is built in and uses all american part's.)
that does bug me a bit. If your gonna have ethic's apply them equally. Ok thats sermon w/apology is made, and my commentary too,
If you wish to talk abut the light in question please do so in a nice manner.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Finally-1-Watt-...Qcmd ZViewItem



again my apologies to peter and anyone offended by me inquiring about this light.VDG

[Lunal_Tic]

Do you have the means to check the mA going to the LED? If it's not too wicked one of those 35K LEDs would be pretty nice. At least it's not potted, that's what's kept me from modding my Infinitys.

Also is the case really steel? Can a magnet connect to it?

-LT

[voodoogreg]

Do you have the means to check the mA going to the LED? If it's not too wicked one of those 35K LEDs would be pretty nice. At least it's not potted, that's what's kept me from modding my Infinitys.

Also is the case really steel? Can a magnet connect to it?

-LT

Not sure if you meant me, but I don't own one.VDG

[Lunal_Tic]

My bad, I thought you had one.

-LT

[balazer]

O.k., you made me run downstairs and do a bunch of tests on my SE FL319 flashlight. (that's the brand and model number on the package)

With the stock LED, this it's not as bright as the Dorcy 1AAA, but it's whiter. I destroyed the stock LED (intentionally), so I don't have any current measurements for it.

LED Vf seems to affect LED current using this boost circuit. I tried several different LEDs, and found the current through them to be between 30 and 50 mA when powered with an NiMH AAA. Battery voltage made a difference too. Doubling the battery voltage (2 x AAA) made the current through the LED more than triple.

Using a TW0H Luxeon III, LED current was 49 mA, LED voltage 2.67 V; boost circuit efficiency 58%; battery voltage 1.25 V (NiMH).

Stock, this is a pretty good light. For modding, I prefer the Dorcy 1AAA, even though the Dorcy is a bit bigger. The Dorcy boost circuit does about 70 mA through the LED no matter which LED I use (on 1 AAA NiMH); it's easier to open; it has a "real" reflector, which could come in handy for some LEDs. The Dorcy boost circuit has similar efficiency: 54%.

[balazer]

A magnet will not stick to it. It seems too strong to be aluminum. I don't know what it is.

[Lunal_Tic]

Scarily enough, you can't stick a magnet to all types of steel. (Berkley Point Clips are made from one of these steels.) Unfortunately I don't know how to test further to find out what it is.

I was interested in the magnet to try and put on my refrigerator, front door and other metal places to keep it in one spot rather than rolling around in a drawer. Of course some steels will work some won't as mentioned above.

-LT

[notrefined]

Might be plated brass? We've seen that on some less expensive (though not this cheap) pocket lights.

[balazer]

I don't think it's brass. The finish is knicked up enough that I would see through the plating if it were. I think it's probably some kind of steel.

[nerdgineer]

It'd be cool if it was a non-magnetic stainless steel. I'd get one if it was made of 310 or 316 but I'd doubt it in such an inexpensive light.

[Elliot]

I just got mine today. The only part that's steel is the keyring.

It is made of a very light metal (maybe Al). My sample was well machined and has an o-ring seal. The beam is perfectly round and smooth. It is a beautiful warm white. I probably paid too much at 9$, but I didn't look around. I was expecting steel, but the I think this may be a better, beacuse it is really light weight. My alkaline battery weighs 14 grams and this light weighs 8!

The only light I can compare it to is my five year old Photon II (new batteries). The center of the beam in this AAA appears a little less bright than the Photon, but better in color and far larger (about nine times the area). The beam itself is wide and smooth, there is also a large smooth corona. A very nice map light - easy on the eyes, it would be perfect with a lithium in the glove box. Don't be like me. Don't pay too much.

Elliot

[IsaacHayes]

I'm thinking about getting this and dropping a NichiaCS and give it away as a gift. It would have great output then!

[balazer]

Why do you think it would have better output with a Nichia? It's pretty good already. Nichia is not the brightest or whitest LED you can get.

[balazer]

Just for reference, here is the part 1 thread about this light: (beware the inflammatory argument that took place)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=94182

Here is a run-time graph and mini review by chevrofreak:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...32#post1069540

The_LED_Museum discussion and review:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...42#post1092537

Vincent's comparison with a real Arc AAA:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95273


I've confirmed the importer of these lights.
SONA ENTERPRISES
7825 SOMERSET BLVD #D
PARAMOUNT, CA 90723-2366
562 633 3002
562 633 3583 (FAX)
800-338-7662

Part no. FL319; price is $2.50; sold in multiples of 10; minimum order $100. They ship UPS. You can pay with credit card. They will sell to individuals, but be sure to tell them that you are purchasing the lights for resale.

[notrefined]

I just got one of these, and I'm impressed....I've dropped it several times from a 3rd story landing, and chucked it as hard as I could against some concrete steps a few more. Minor cosmetic damage, and it forced the head in once (cross-threading it), but it's still perfectly functional. a bit of teflon pipefitter's tape helps with the loose threads.

[UnknownVT]

Compared to classic ArcAAA (2003)

1LED 1xAAA "clone"?

The body is definitely steel - as it is strongly attracted by a magnet.

[balazer]

Mine is not attracted to a magnet at all. Is it possible that your magnet was being attracted to the battery inside, instead of the light itself?

I don't know what the case is made of, but it seems plenty strong, and it's very light and thin.

[UnknownVT]

balazer wrote: "Mine is not attracted to a magnet at all. Is it possible that your magnet was being attracted to the battery inside, instead of the light itself? "


Yes, you're right - how embarrassing - it was the battery that was strongly attracted by the magnet.....

However there still apears to be some slight magnetic attraction,
but not enough for a strong'ish magnet to pick the body tube up.

I did remove the split-ring as that is steel and is very attracted to the magnet -
just to show how strong - when attached the split ring jumps at the magnet and the whole assembly can be picked up by the magnet.

[justsomeguy]

Hi Vincent,

Despite being only slightly magnetic, it could still be steel, as claimed by the seller. Stainless steel is nonmagnetic or only slightly magnetic, depending on the specific alloy. Some alloys of stainless are quite cheap and workable.

We need some engineer or student with access to a mass spectrometer to scrape a sample and burn it.

Steve

[chesterqw]

bright for something that as small and cheaper then arc aaa ^_^

the one on ledmuseum was 30,500mcd

[TrueBlue]

If you realize that the clone lights are not even close to the quality of an ARC or Peak light then you will be satisfied with one of these lights. The clones are bright and they might be durable. With a battery installed the clones would probably survive a run-in with a car tire. The brightness of the clone lights is close to the brightness my high power Peak lights. The tints of the clones are whiter than the snow tint of the Peak lights and much a much whiter tint of the standard Peak emitter. I’m impressed with the output and tint of the clone lights. One other advantage to the clones is that the use a common AAA battery.

That is where the quality ends. The bodies of the clones are very thin- crushable thin. On both clones the LED is not centered and shows egg shaped beams. The clone lights have knurling that is only fair. The smooth knurling is more for looks than for grip. The tails on the clones have rough machining marks. The circuits are exposed inside the light. There is some kind of goop is used to partially protect the circuits from being damaged. Both of my lights have a very annoying intermittent connection that causes a lot of flicker. Both lights share loose threads. I wouldn’t consider these lights to be reliable in a serious situation.

While the clones are useful no one would mistake the lights for an ARC or Peak light. Because of the bright for a 5mm emitter and the decent tint of the emitter the clone lights would make good stocking stuffers for Christmas and would probably thrill the general public. In my case, because of the cheap price and substandard quality of the clone lights, I wouldn’t cry a lot if I lost them.

[UnknownVT]

justsomeguy wrote: "Despite being only slightly magnetic, it could still be steel, as claimed by the seller. Stainless steel is nonmagnetic or only slightly magnetic, depending on the specific alloy."

Yes, I agree it's probably still some steel alloy.

However just a point of information - I think it's the otherway round -
that MOST stainless steels are actually magnetic - steel in any form including stainless is mostly ferrite/iron - and it's all that ferrite/iron content that is magnetic -

I used the same magnet to test some of the most rust resistant known stainless steels I have - like Swiss Army Knives (both Victorinox and Wenger) and even the 18/8 stainless on flatware/table cutlery - they all were very strongly attracted by a magnet. Please try a magnet yourself - that's how most people test if something is made of steel including stainless.

However there is a special class of "austenitic" stainless steel that have special heat treatment which alters their structure that are claimed to be non-magnetic - please see this helpful page -

Is stainless steel magnetic?

[paulr]

It might be pot metal, which I think is an alloy of copper and tin, or something like that.

[rdshores]

I took a file to the lug end and it's been plated....it looks like nickle over copper plate. Then under the copper it looks like steel. For as thin and strong as the body is, it seems like it's stainless steel, but I don't know why they would go to the expense of plating stainless.

[balazer]

The bodies of the clones are very thin- crushable thin. ...The tails on the clones have rough machining marks. The circuits are exposed inside the light. There is some kind of goop is used to partially protect the circuits from being damaged. Both of my lights have a very annoying intermittent connection that causes a lot of flicker. Both lights share loose threads.

The light seems plenty strong to me. I don't know why anyone would want something any stronger.

The threads and LED centering are fine on my light, and there is no flicker.

As for the exposed electronics, they're not really exposed. That's the inside of the light. But consider the design trade-off: this is a VERY small and inexpensive light. They've not wasted a bit of space, and the result is the the most compact AAA light anywhere.

I'm not convinced that the SE has any kind of meaningful waterproofing in the head.

Whether this light is better or worse than the Arc depends on what you want. If you want something extremely durable and reliable, of course get the Arc. If you want something cheaper, lighter, smaller, and whiter, get the SE. It's less than 1/6 the cost!

[Moat]

It might be pot metal, which I think is an alloy of copper and tin, or something like that.

Hi, Paul. I believe "pot metal" is Zinc (like carburetor bodies, cheap cast jewelry - a white and soft, low melting temp metal), and Copper/Tin alloys are Bronze (gold-colored machine bushings/bearings, Bronze sculpture).

If it appears slightly magnetic (but you're not sure), a small sliver or file spec of typical low-cost stainless steel would stick to a strong magnet, I'd think.

This looks like a nice little "no big deal if lost" keyring light. Decent runtime and curve, too. I just wish they were a little easier to buy!

[balazer]

.

[UnknownVT]

balazer wrote: "I called Sona Enterprises. At least according to their description of their FL319, it sounds like it's this light. (single LED, AAA)"

That's the model number on my packaging - and the "brand" seemed to be "SE" -
see comparison with classic ArcAAA - 1LED 1xAAA "clone"?

[txmatt]

I'd be willing to buy 10 if we wanna see if we can get enough together.

[notrefined]

I'd be in for 10