1xAAA chinese e-bay light partII

voodoogreg

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First off i sure am sorry for even starting this uproar in the "other" thread.
I am a major devotee of PG's AAA-P and have given them a good workout
on my last (music related) tour. I am happy with them and had talked to peter
Of my intent of being a sorta of ambassador in showing it to tour supply business's, crew, tech's, roadies tour managers to gauge interest and maybe open a new market for ARC.(not had a chance to call him with report but if you see this peter will do so tomorrow)
So I never would put up that thread as a subsitute for a real deal ARC. since lights with the ARC/peak form factor have been very poular since i joined CPF little over a year ago, I there have been many close knockoff's, but I agree this one (other then lack of appearent quality) is obviously a copy.

My first good LED light was a infinity ultra bought well before joining CPF. one must admit it sure bears major resemblance to the ARC AAA, but in AA size.

Is it possible that peter took a good idea, and made a smaller, better, brighter unit? I don't think that's wrong, many great product's have been done that way! And incedently love the peak's i have too (ultra po AAA lug bod, and N cell pocket) but gransee's light really cut's through and the blue'ish tint seem's to work better in fog (stage fog) is brighter then any 1xAAA 1xled i own, and is other then a few personal niggles built so good and so small it transends it's simplicity.

So I would never try to muscle a knockoff to you my bro's on this of all forum's!!!!
My feelings were as stated in the closed thread (good call empath BTW)
was for a light to give as presents or cheap gifts to turn on friends on to small LED keychain lights once the bug bites, as we all have learned :naughty:
that once you see benifit's paying 40 bucks will make sense for a
people that think a solitaire is to much dough.
so for this i do apologize to Peter, and the CFPer's I angered.
But with one caveat:
I have never seen outcries from us when a knockoff of a m@g, or
other light deemed a copy or inferior, are often brought up here. (esp If as one argument goes Some of our fav light's do have foreign parts, a mag i believe is built in and uses all american part's.)
that does bug me a bit. If your gonna have ethic's apply them equally. Ok thats sermon w/apology is made, and my commentary too,
If you wish to talk abut the light in question please do so in a nice manner.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Finally-1-Watt-...Qcmd ZViewItem



again my apologies to peter and anyone offended by me inquiring about this light.VDG
 
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Lunal_Tic

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Do you have the means to check the mA going to the LED? If it's not too wicked one of those 35K LEDs would be pretty nice. At least it's not potted, that's what's kept me from modding my Infinitys.

Also is the case really steel? Can a magnet connect to it?

-LT
 

voodoogreg

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Lunal_Tic said:
Do you have the means to check the mA going to the LED? If it's not too wicked one of those 35K LEDs would be pretty nice. At least it's not potted, that's what's kept me from modding my Infinitys.

Also is the case really steel? Can a magnet connect to it?

-LT

Not sure if you meant me, but I don't own one.VDG
 

balazer

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O.k., you made me run downstairs and do a bunch of tests on my SE FL319 flashlight. (that's the brand and model number on the package)

With the stock LED, this it's not as bright as the Dorcy 1AAA, but it's whiter. I destroyed the stock LED (intentionally), so I don't have any current measurements for it.

LED Vf seems to affect LED current using this boost circuit. I tried several different LEDs, and found the current through them to be between 30 and 50 mA when powered with an NiMH AAA. Battery voltage made a difference too. Doubling the battery voltage (2 x AAA) made the current through the LED more than triple.

Using a TW0H Luxeon III, LED current was 49 mA, LED voltage 2.67 V; boost circuit efficiency 58%; battery voltage 1.25 V (NiMH).

Stock, this is a pretty good light. For modding, I prefer the Dorcy 1AAA, even though the Dorcy is a bit bigger. The Dorcy boost circuit does about 70 mA through the LED no matter which LED I use (on 1 AAA NiMH); it's easier to open; it has a "real" reflector, which could come in handy for some LEDs. The Dorcy boost circuit has similar efficiency: 54%.
 

balazer

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A magnet will not stick to it. It seems too strong to be aluminum. I don't know what it is.
 
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Lunal_Tic

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Scarily enough, you can't stick a magnet to all types of steel. (Berkley Point Clips are made from one of these steels.) Unfortunately I don't know how to test further to find out what it is.

I was interested in the magnet to try and put on my refrigerator, front door and other metal places to keep it in one spot rather than rolling around in a drawer. Of course some steels will work some won't as mentioned above.

-LT
 
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notrefined

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Might be plated brass? We've seen that on some less expensive (though not this cheap) pocket lights.
 

balazer

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I don't think it's brass. The finish is knicked up enough that I would see through the plating if it were. I think it's probably some kind of steel.
 

nerdgineer

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It'd be cool if it was a non-magnetic stainless steel. I'd get one if it was made of 310 or 316 but I'd doubt it in such an inexpensive light.
 

Elliot

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I just got mine today. The only part that's steel is the keyring. :)

It is made of a very light metal (maybe Al). My sample was well machined and has an o-ring seal. The beam is perfectly round and smooth. It is a beautiful warm white. I probably paid too much at 9$, but I didn't look around. I was expecting steel, but the I think this may be a better, beacuse it is really light weight. My alkaline battery weighs 14 grams and this light weighs 8!

The only light I can compare it to is my five year old Photon II (new batteries). The center of the beam in this AAA appears a little less bright than the Photon, but better in color and far larger (about nine times the area). The beam itself is wide and smooth, there is also a large smooth corona. A very nice map light - easy on the eyes, it would be perfect with a lithium in the glove box. Don't be like me. Don't pay too much.

Elliot
 

IsaacHayes

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I'm thinking about getting this and dropping a NichiaCS and give it away as a gift. It would have great output then!
 

balazer

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Why do you think it would have better output with a Nichia? It's pretty good already. Nichia is not the brightest or whitest LED you can get.
 

balazer

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Just for reference, here is the part 1 thread about this light: (beware the inflammatory argument that took place)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/94182

Here is a run-time graph and mini review by chevrofreak:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/89632#post1069540

The_LED_Museum discussion and review:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92842#post1092537

Vincent's comparison with a real Arc AAA:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95273


I've confirmed the importer of these lights.
SONA ENTERPRISES
7825 SOMERSET BLVD #D
PARAMOUNT, CA 90723-2366
562 633 3002
562 633 3583 (FAX)
800-338-7662

Part no. FL319; price is $2.50; sold in multiples of 10; minimum order $100. They ship UPS. You can pay with credit card. They will sell to individuals, but be sure to tell them that you are purchasing the lights for resale.
 
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notrefined

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I just got one of these, and I'm impressed....I've dropped it several times from a 3rd story landing, and chucked it as hard as I could against some concrete steps a few more. Minor cosmetic damage, and it forced the head in once (cross-threading it), but it's still perfectly functional. a bit of teflon pipefitter's tape helps with the loose threads.
 

balazer

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Mine is not attracted to a magnet at all. Is it possible that your magnet was being attracted to the battery inside, instead of the light itself?

I don't know what the case is made of, but it seems plenty strong, and it's very light and thin.
 

UnknownVT

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balazer wrote: "Mine is not attracted to a magnet at all. Is it possible that your magnet was being attracted to the battery inside, instead of the light itself? "


Yes, you're right - how embarrassing - it was the battery that was strongly attracted by the magnet.....:ohgeez:

However there still apears to be some slight magnetic attraction,
but not enough for a strong'ish magnet to pick the body tube up.

I did remove the split-ring as that is steel and is very attracted to the magnet -
just to show how strong - when attached the split ring jumps at the magnet and the whole assembly can be picked up by the magnet.
 

justsomeguy

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Hi Vincent,

Despite being only slightly magnetic, it could still be steel, as claimed by the seller. Stainless steel is nonmagnetic or only slightly magnetic, depending on the specific alloy. Some alloys of stainless are quite cheap and workable.

We need some engineer or student with access to a mass spectrometer to scrape a sample and burn it.

Steve
 
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