Mag2D to 4C (5w/Fatflex) Mod

For the Ghost Mountain Get Together I did a Mag2D to 4C mod. I always thought there is so much space wasted in a Mag 2D - specially in the back as well as where the switch is. The goal was to squeeze as many batteries as possible into a Mag2D while getting rid of these space wasters.

This is what I came up with. A Mag 2D to 4c adapter made of acrylic. That is utilizing the space where the switch is - for a total of 4 rechargeable C batteries (each 5,000 mAh)



I have had the acrylic 2D to 4C adapter made. You can see the groove for the tactile switch and in the front the holes where the wires from the switch connect to the driver. The groove was a little bit too short so I had to use a dremel to lengthen it a couple of mm.

I have 4 more adapters left (and I could have more manufactured). However since the FatFlex isnt available yet I don't know what the interest is at this time.

In the back, I removed the extra bulp (since this light is using a Luxeon V), and shortened the spring.


Then I have been bugging George (Taskled) for the past half year for a FatFlex board. He finally let me borrow his excellent prototype board. Basically a Fatman with an NFlex core - a really amazing driver - 5 brightness levels, regulated....more details are in the FatFlex thread.

The hardest part in this mod was probably soldering the wires onto the FatFlex. Since its a prototype board I didnt' wanna ruin it - so I tooks me like 3 hours to do the soldering....


The FatFlex went into a Hotlip - which was previously treated with some nailpolish to prevent shortcircuiting. The LED is a Luxeon V (5W) driven at 700mA.


From the outside the stock Mag-switch-rubber is used, so that the light looks exactly like a regular Mag2D light.


...except that the bulky space wasting Mag switch was replaced with a tiny tactile switch that goes into a groove of the 2D to 4C adapter.


I then added some weatherproof glow paint (had some left from the GatLight batteries) to the front of the bezel as well as to the Hotlip area around the Luxeon. For reflector I used the stock 2D mag reflector (cylinder tube at the bottom of the reflector cut off)


Then here to finish a beamshot comparison between a regular Mag2D light and this modded Mag2D-to-4C mod (LuxV/FatFlex).


I really like the result, it's very clean, looks and feals exactly the same as a Mag2D (except for the glow painted bezel), but has a LuxV, brightness regulation and 4 reachargeable C cells. I haven't tested Runtime yet but it is likely to be 5+ hours or more on the brightest setting and probably several days on the lowest.

THANKS TO GEORGE who made this mod possible with his excellent FatFlex driver.

Nice work.

- Chris

Well done!

Very nice! I like the acrylic battery holder and how you squeezed in the switch but kept it stock looking. Bravo!

Wish I had gone to Ghost Mtn with you guys.

I have also been patiently waiting for the FatFlex (See my sigline) because I have a sweet Cutdown 1D Minitrois that I made with ModaMag. It runs 4AA nimhs and only has one regulated level right now. TWOH x3 makes it a pretty bright light with about 1hr runtime but I would love to get my hands on a UWOJ or H to turn it up a notch.

Anyway, do you think that there would be enough room to run an 8AA adaptor in the cutdown 2D by removing the switch assembly and rigging the switch like the one you did?

Great work. I love the way you used up the mag switch place.

Well my original goal was to put 3 D cells into the 2D light. This would have actually worked, if you would use a Carclo 2 degree optic (and something custom to put the LED on since the hotlip would be replaced with a battery). Also to make 3D in a 2D work, you would have to find a way to put a tactile switch in there while having a D Cell underneath the switch (I don't know - there is like no space, you would have to cut a groove in the inside of the case to run the cables of the tactile switch - also the tactile switch would have to be really really tiny and something else would be needed between switch and battery to support it). The same would be true for your cut down 1D.

The problem with D cells is that the threading in the back is too large to slide in part of a D-cell - so the only way for more room is moving the D cell into the reflector area by replacing the stock reflector with a 15mm thick Carclo 2 degree optic.

Someone really skilled might be able to pull the "tactile switch on top of a D-cell" off - however its beyond my skills.

So these are the options to my opinion if you want to do a 3D in 2D, or your suggested 8AA in a cut down 2D.

sweet!

FatFlex prototype, eh! lucky!

Awsome.

I've just tried fitting 8AA with holder into a cut down 2D mag and found out the battery just flush with the end of the tube so there is no room for the end cab to screw in. My heart sunk.

But, by removing the retaining ring which stops the original switch will yield enough room for the battery to move forward. I see the light. The Fatflex can be inside the heatsink of course. The new groove can be made later for the retaing ring. I hope it's not to hard to do with HAND tools.

My problem with nFlex is it's square body which can not fit inside the heatsink. So I have to fiddle around hoping EVERTHING will fit in that small chamber. I have to make sure the nFex won't be a flatten sandwitch between heavy battery pack and heatsink if the light is dropped head down.:sweat:

My bet for the coming bbFex is that it be round and small enough to fit inside the heatsink. Post your result if anyone manage to fit 8AA into that Cutdown 1D MAg. Thanks for Bobile1 for the inspiration. :thanks:

Henry

I used some epoxy to glue the 2D to 4C adapter to the case. Maybe someting similar could protect the nflex. I tried once to fit an nflex inside of a hotlip. I think it could be done if you use a dremel and cut away some of the walls at the bottom of a Hotlip - I think it would go right in there - I think the nflex needs some rounded edges just a tiny bit and I think it would work.

You are right about the nFlex fitting in the Hotlip. I am gona roll up my sleeves this weekend and get ready for the aluminum dirt, or magic powder.


The next issue is fitting the micro switch on side of the battery holder at the right position so it can be accessible from the switch hole.

Well, 2 x 18650 is easier for the swith setup like yours. But I like the idea of 8AA so I can drain the alkline batteries. We'll see what I came up with later.

If all fail, I'll just do what you did because I still have two MAG 2D waiting to be modified. One is already running WA1274 with excellent result. I like that sleeve of yours.

Henry

Oooh, FatFlex...drool...

Well I have some extra sleeves - if you want one let me know I could sell you one.

I have been testing the fatflex for several hours now...and I must say it works beautifully!!! No glitches no nothing.

The FatFlex works beautifully I have been playing with this thing the entire week... I can't wait for the FatFlex to come out, so I can build a couple of those for some friends.

Today I let the light on until it shut down (full power). Battery lasted about 4+ hours (however I have been playing with it ever since I built it. Very solid driver and light... It works like a champ, no bugs, no nothing.
Can't wait until George starts selling these FatFlex drivers. I guess I am gonna hand out a couple of those as gifts to family.