• You must be a Supporting Member to participate in the Candle Power Forums Marketplace.

    You can become a Supporting Member.

Sold/Expired WTB: Modified Mag "C" or "D" body

Dr_Joe

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
618
Location
New Jersey, USA
I just got a TXOK star mounted on a heat sink intended for direct drive with a 3C Maglite using a 2 degree Carclo optic. (from Silviron)

I was wondering what other battery options I had and was hoping someone here would have the answers if not the actual modded body. (or be willing to make one for me :poke: :grin2: )

I'd like this to be as short as possible.

3 x AA ??
4 x AA ?? (6 volts.....too much ??)
2 x CR123 in a "C" body ? (6 volts again, I think this set up might fry the star)

:help: :thinking: :huh2: :shrug:
Anybody have any ideas ?
 
Last edited:

Silviron

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
2,477
Location
New Mexico, USA
Just PMed you with a little more info before I read this post..

Just wanted to mention that it is a TXOK bin you have, not a J... (no resistors in the module, pulling 1.1A on three fresh C alkalines) That makes a difference in what the other guys may recommend.

Unfortunately, you can't get 3 AA cells side by side into a C Mag battery tube, even with machining some grooves.. so you are looking at a complete new custom tube to do it that way.

And your heat sink is too long to fit into a D cell head and still have room for the optic.

I'd go with a single 18650 (or 18500 or 17670) rechargable LiIon to achieve what you are asking. You will want to put a 1 ohm/2 watt resistor in the circuit somewhere for safety's sake to drop the current from the ~1.5A your module will draw with the LiIon.

Actually, I have a 1 ohm/2W "insert" already made for a C battery tube I'll give you if you find somebody to cut down and thread a M*G battery tube for you.. (They will need to allow .471 extra length for the insert.)

Now, you COULD get three AAAs side by side in a C tube... You could even use a battery carrier out of a Dorcy or Garrity Walmart LED light to do it easily... But runtime would suck, and your LUX output would only be about 60% of what you get with 3Cs.
 

Dr_Joe

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
618
Location
New Jersey, USA
Thanks for all the info Silviron :thanks:

How about 6 AAA's (3+3 in series) 4.5 volts, 2/3rds the length of 3C (would this fit into a stock 2C body ?)

This is going to be more complicated than anticipated :ohgeez:

I didn't realize there was a significant depth diference between the C and D Mag heads. :stupid:

It's going to be a long term project :crackup:

I think I'll put it into a 3C body until I get a better idea.
 
Last edited:

Silviron

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
2,477
Location
New Mexico, USA
Joe--- If you want to send back the module or the whole kit for a refund, I won't be too upset...

Or, since a D M*g will let you use 3AAs side by side, if you want to trade the C module for the next T**K D cell module I build (it'll be a while though) we can do that (and I can build in a resistor if you want to do something weird as far as the battery configuration.

Or you can trade down and get some cash back for the SWAK D cell module I still have in stock, and have something to work with sooner, with still decent throw..... And more LUX / lumens than running your TXOK on Alkaline AAAs would produce.

Sorry this is so frustrating for you. Had I known what you wanted to do before you bought, I could have given you advice.

The 6AAAs in series - parallel is possible but impractical IMHO, and since AAAs are ~44MM in length rather than a C cells ~50mm you would have to take up some extra space with the holder, or use a spacer in a 2C tube or do a custom cutdown tube.... Actually, now that I think of it, the resistored insert I have is just about the right dimensions to make up the difference in a 2C. using a series parallel AAA battery pack.

Just for reference there is about a .180 in. / 4.5 MM difference in the depth of C & D heads... You can use a D sink with a spacer (and lose 30% of the heatsink mass) in a C head, but the reverse won't work.

I could have just built everything with D thickness (.280 inch) sinks and used spacers to put them in C heads, saving myself a lot of fairly expensive aluminum stock... Or even cheaper is to cut them out of 1/4 inch thick flat stock saving money and lots of lathe time and other hassles. But overdriving the Luxeons with direct drive on three cells I opted to go with as much mass as practical.... The larger the mass the slower it will be to heat up and the better it will dissipate heat... and heat is the greater enemy to Luxeons than current / voltage are IMHO.


Apparently, you want to stick with using primary batteries, ???? since you keep NOT commenting on my suggestions of LiIons, which would give you the best, most practical way to achieve the size of light you are wanting without wasting a lot of "lumen potential".
 
Last edited:
Top