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Thread: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

  1. #1
    Flashaholic* Phaserburn's Avatar
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    Default Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    For various reasons, which I won’t belabor (well, not now, anyway…), I have always liked the SL-20X. It’s stock lamp, however, well… sucks! Its output has always made me think “anemic”, a real letdown. What would’ve been great is WA1160 brightness, but with a MOP type of beam. Enter our hero… js.



    I sent my light to Jim, and he performed “Un-Suck” surgery on it: an 1160 ring-potted lamp installed in a Carley orange peel reflector. Aaaah, finally! After long lamenting, my SL-60 was born! Once the lamp was fixed into the reflector and tooled a bit by Jim, it dropped in nicely to the stock SL-20X.



    Seriously, folks… this light has gone from “pretty good” to “awesome”. Now, realize that I was running a 35X lamp in my 20X already, which wasn’t bad at all. Not stupendous, but a major improvement over the 20X LA when being driven by my 4Ah nimh battery stick. The 35X gets left in the dust by the 1160/Carley combo. MC60 output but with a wider, virtually artifact free beam. I can’t say enough about the improvement to the SL-20X. And, it still gets over an hour runtime. Far more output and throw than the 35X and with a whiter beam to boot.



    Now the very best part: js is selling the ring potted 1160/Carley reflector combos for your SL-20X! Even with the stock battery, this drop-in is jaw-dropping! This is THE mod you’ve been looking for if you own an SL-20X and want to just drop in some major improvement. Jim liked the results in my SL that he went out and bought one for himself right away.



    Note: I have the dimmer/flasher tailcap from Streamlight on my SL-60. This has been a total CPF sleeper. This tailcap is great; it offers electronic continuous dimming/brightening, flashing, and the ability to turn the light on at it’s lowest setting without having to dim it. No one else makes anything like this. The SL-60 is so bright that even on it’s dimmest setting, you’ll have plenty of light to navigate, perform close up tasks, etc. Also makes a great candle mode as it’s flat and stable.



    Jim may be able to provide pics for this mod, and more info for availability. This mod gets two thumbs waaaay up and the Phaserburn seal of approval.

    The Phaser: A nice EDC with great throw; heat and runtime can be issues.

    Best Diffusion Film!

  2. #2
    Flashaholic* Schuey2002's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    >>"I sent my light to Jim, and he performed “Un-Suck” surgery on it:"<<

    Hahahaha!

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    Flashaholic* Paul_in_Maryland's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Just when I thought it was safe to go back to saving...

    Any idea how it compares with the brightest (750-lumen) version of FiveMega's 3x168 Stinger HP Mod?
    My lights, all AA, neutral or warm: 3 Fenix TK20s; 2 Malkoff M30WFs; 2 Shiningbeam Romisens (5A); Dereelight XP-G R5 (close enough); UK 4AA incan.

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    Flashaholic* Paul_in_Maryland's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    The digital tailcap is Streamlight Part Number 20271, Digital Flasher/Dimmer Tailcap. Under $30!
    My lights, all AA, neutral or warm: 3 Fenix TK20s; 2 Malkoff M30WFs; 2 Shiningbeam Romisens (5A); Dereelight XP-G R5 (close enough); UK 4AA incan.

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    *Flashaholic* KevinL's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    NO NO NO!!!!

    All of you leadeth me into temptation and my Paypal accounts are violently objecting!

    Now wait, what were you saying about the digital dimmer? That is really interesting... variable power control has always been a Good Thing(tm).

    How does the SL20 body compare to the Magcharger body? Does it have charge-in-place capability like the Magcharger has? It seems, that for me, it's just going to come down to which body I like, because if I get either of them, I'll be modding them anyway.
    Celebrating the ROP.. 5 years of history

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    Flashaholic* Unicorn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    It does charge in place, but it's not as easy as the Mag for that. You can't just slap it in any 'ole way. You have to put it in a certain way. Not a big disadvantage.
    The MC does seem to have an advantage if you want/need a spot beam for further throw, or an adjustable beam. If not then either fits the bill. I think you can get stipled or orange peel reflectors for the MC as well. I personally would prefer the Mag because either way, stock reflector or aftermarket modded one, you just have to get the bulbs, and bare bulbs are going to be cheaper than ones that you have to have potted. Just my opinion.


    Quick question about those dimmers. Do they reduce the life or brightness of the bulb? I don't mean do they do their job of dimming, I mean the dimming of a bulb due to undervolting it so it builds up that black inside the glass. The lack of a complete halogenisation cycle or something like that.

  7. #7
    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    First off, I should mention that bwaites was the first person to do this mod. He got me to pot up some 1160's into fixture-rings for him, then modded a couple Carley 1940 reflectors to fit the SL-20X head. He also bought some of the 4AH 5 1/2 D sticks. This all went into upgrading some LEO friends SL-20X lights, and they were very pleased with the results.

    So I knew this was something I could do, and when Phaserburn PMed me many months ago about upgrading his SL-20X, I told him I could do the same thing. Well, after all those months went by, I decided to go ahead and see if he still wanted me to do this mod. I knew it wouldn't require much time on my part, and I needed to do at least a little something different than M6-R work and USL packs, if only for a few hours. Plus, I already had to ring-pot some lamps for a TL mod owner, so I just filled in the rest of the jig spots with 1160's. The mod for the 1940 just involves turning down the outside radius of the rear nub, and rounding off the transition to the side. Note that I do NOT reduce the length of the nub, nor touch the rim, nor widen the bore. The bore must remain untouched in order to accept a ring-potted lamp.

    The end result is just a drop-in LA for your SL-20X using an 1160. The geometry of the 1940 isn't as tight as the MC reflector, and the 1940 has more divergence, so it won't throw as far, but the beam has fewer artifacts and is smoother and broader, while still throwing quite far. Phaserburn has a MOP 1940.

    The one issue was that the 1940 is too loose in the SL-20X head for my taste. It can be used as is, but would be more prone to breakage due to shock and vibration. So I tried a number of different methods to find a good way to secure it in the head and protect it against vibration and shock. Strangely, the best performing solution was to take an overly large o-ring and push it down inside the head. Imagine looking down on the SL-20X head from above, and superimpose compass points on it. I pushed down the o-ring at the N and S, making it catarpillar up at the W and E. (I used a 2 1/4" o.d. 1/8" thick buna-n o-ring, BTW). These catarpillar loops hold the reflector in place and push it up against the lens and prevent it from contacting the head. And the buna-n will take the heat just fine.

    The SL-20X has wires with molex type connectors on the end which just grab the .028" pins of a WA or stock SL lamp. Thus, just like the TL, there is no plastic pedestal or socket to melt, and the lamp doesn't wander in position with every bump of the head. You can run your SL60 non-stop for a full burn (or more) and not melt anything or have any heat issues whatsoever. This, in my opinion, is its major advantage over the MC60.

    The other MAJOR advantage of the SL60 is that flasher/dimmer cap! I have to say that when I first pulled Phaserburn's SL-20X out of the box and saw that dimmer cap I was like "Eh. I probably won't use that at all. Oh, well. It can't hurt, I suppose." But boy did I have a change of opinion. This dimmer cap is one of the most useful accesories I have ever experienced. People talk about "piss yellow" incans all the time, but I have to say that I found the dimmed down light to be "golden yellow" and "sunset orange". It was simply very, very useful to be able to dim the light down to only a small orange glow. I could see the rocks at my feet and still not ruin my night vision, and I could operate in stealth mode and not call attention to myself. People are quite aware of a spot-light level powered light being beamed around, but hardly notice a mag-a-like dim beam. This can be very useful at times. And having a dim beam that you KNOW can turn almost instantly into 450 lumens of bright white light is much different than having a dim, artifact filled beam that you know will not ever get any better. It just is.

    So anyway, all you need to do to get your own SL60 is just buy some ring-potted 1160's from me, and a modded 1940 in MOP or Smooth. I will provide the o-ring needed to secure the 1940 in the head, and the allen wrench needed to focus and secure the ring-potted lamp in the 1940. (Although the first 1160 will already be installed and focused in the 1940 for you). The rest is just pushing in an o-ring, connecting the lamp lead wires, and turning down the bezel.

    Oh, and you will of course need to get one of the shock isolated 55 mm UCL's or other appropriate glass lens for your 20X or 35X in order to avoid melting the stock lexan lens.

    Also, a better NiMH stick is recommended over the stock pack, but is not necessary. I will be back later tonight with pictures of the 1160 LA and o-ring installation and to provide more info and discussion.

    But for now, that's an intro to the SL-20X.

    Oh, one advantage of the 20X over the MC that I just remembered, and which I was first clued into by Phaserburn is that it is MUCH easier to operate the switch with winter gloves on.

    Oh, and the dimmer/flasher cap can be used to either dim the light down after you've turned on normally, or--and this is SO cool--to TURN ON in dim mode. If you push the tailcap membrane switch and hold and then turn on the light, it comes on in dim mode. If you want to go as fast as possible to full brightness, just turn off and turn right back on again --a "double click" as it were-- and this can be done rather quickly once you get used to it. Also, a double click on the membrane switch puts you into a flashing mode, which will get attention in a hurry, I'm sure.

    Turning on in dim mode would also be great for those considering an SL85! A 9 1/2D stick in an SL-35X with a ring potted 1185 and modded 1940 would make the SL85 (!). And the dimmer tail cap would allow you to avoid the instaflash issues associated with running the 1185 on 9 1/2D's.

    I have a report on the charging circuit situation, too, but I'll save that for later.
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

  8. #8
    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by Unicorn
    It does charge in place, but it's not as easy as the Mag for that. You can't just slap it in any 'ole way. You have to put it in a certain way. Not a big disadvantage.
    The MC does seem to have an advantage if you want/need a spot beam for further throw, or an adjustable beam. If not then either fits the bill. I think you can get stipled or orange peel reflectors for the MC as well. I personally would prefer the Mag because either way, stock reflector or aftermarket modded one, you just have to get the bulbs, and bare bulbs are going to be cheaper than ones that you have to have potted. Just my opinion.


    Quick question about those dimmers. Do they reduce the life or brightness of the bulb? I don't mean do they do their job of dimming, I mean the dimming of a bulb due to undervolting it so it builds up that black inside the glass. The lack of a complete halogenisation cycle or something like that.
    Running the 1160 in dim mode will not cause darkening of the glass envelope. The lower the temperature the less the halogen cycle works to pull tungsten atoms from the glass, BUT the lower the temperature, the less the filament vaporizes and spews out tungsten atoms in the first place. In most modern "halgoen" lamps, these two factors have been balanced against each other. I have run a good amount of dim time on my 1160 and so far, I can see absolutely no darkening. So no. No problem.

    Also, I'm betting the AWR is going to show up here and say how inefficient an underdriven incan is. Well, yes, that is true, but you still gain in runtime in a significant way. You can extend your runtime to 3+ hours in dim mode, at least, although I suspect it will be even more. This is something I will leave others to test.
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

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    Flashaholic* TonyBPD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    My SL-20X is collecting dust in my closet right now. I would definitely be interested in this mod. Where do I sign up?

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    Flashaholic* Phaserburn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Also, remember that dimming an incan cannon is for either a) an emergency where you suddenly need longer runtime and have no other options b) brief periods where full output is blinding, like up close work or c) using the light in candle mode indoors. All three circumstances are extremely useful to have as an option and really makes your SL much more than just a single dimension light. The rapid flasher feature, by the way, is extremely attention getting, blowing away any strobing led lights.
    The Phaser: A nice EDC with great throw; heat and runtime can be issues.

    Best Diffusion Film!

  11. #11
    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by TonyBPD
    My SL-20X is collecting dust in my closet right now. I would definitely be interested in this mod. Where do I sign up?
    Signup in the 1185, 1111, 1160 & 1274 ring-potted lamps for TL & SL upgrades B/S/T thread.

    But please keep in mind that my M6-R and USL work will take priority over filling these orders. I will be able to fill the first handful of orders right away, but after that I can't give a time frame. There could be a delay of up to 2 or 3 weeks, depending. Especially if this mod becomes really popular, because then I will need to order more 1160's, and that will delay things. I think I have more than enough reflectors on hand, though.
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

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    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_in_Maryland
    Just when I thought it was safe to go back to saving...

    Any idea how it compares with the brightest (750-lumen) version of FiveMega's 3x168 Stinger HP Mod?
    I wish you hadn't asked me this.

    I am very tired of being the CPF fair and equal lumens assessment gadfly and I will no longer play that role. If people want to go around thinking that their 1185 mag mods are 1200 or 1300 lumens, or that 3 rechargable 123 li-ion batteries will power an 1185 to 10.8 volts, they can do so, unhampered by my attempts to bring things back to reality.

    Here's what I will say: you need to find out the following information, in my opinion, in order to make a best guess at how many lumens any given mod is putting out the front of the torch:

    1. Mid-point voltage under load of the batteries. What are they actually delivering to the load, --and I'm not talking about voltage loss through switches even. Just what you would measure across the battery pack or battery holder halfway through the run, while driving the given lamp.

    2. Rated lumens and voltage of the lamp. Re-rate according to Lr = (Va/Vd)^3.5 * Ld. Where Va is the MPV from (1) and Vd is the design voltage and Ld is the design lumens and Lr is the re-rated lumens.

    3. Take the re-rated lumens and multiply by 0.65 to arrive at torch lumens.

    That is how I would figure out a lumens total that would start to approach reality. I am, apparently, one of the few people to do things this way. And I don't know why everyone just ignores me. Because, I'm sorry NT, but no, your Mag35 with "Super" reflector is not 1200 lumens. Not if the SF M6 is 500 lumens. I'm refering to this post.

    It's fine if people choose to use bulb lumens, but they can't also then compare them directly to SureFire lumens. Please! Let's be fair and real, here!

    So in that spirit, I would rate the 1160 on 6 good NiMH or NiCd cells at 450 lumens. It is not as bright as the M6 HOLA, but is just noticeable brighter than the M6 LOLA. So, yes, SureFire under-rates their lights, even going by torch-lumens.

    Or if you don't trust my estimates, let me just put it this way: the SL60 is about a 24 watt light, and its driven reasonably hard, but not as hard as the SF M6 or A2 or Tiger11.
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

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    Flashaholic* TonyBPD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Paypal sent! Thanks js

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    *Flashaholic* bwaites's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Come on Jim, you are uniquely qualified to BE the CPF "fair and equal lumens gadfly"!!

    You work or have worked on all the series of lights that are most commonly modded, you have, uniquely, created mods no one else has considered or that no one else has felt possible, and you are familiar with all the the lamps!!

    My vote is that you, and you only, remain the "CPF fair and equal lumens gadfly".

    In fact I confer upon you the title "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Monitor".

    If you desire though, I will be happy to change your title to "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Fairy" or "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Guru" or "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Angel" or even "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Gadfly Extraordinaire"!

    However, someone with your standing MUST continue to carry the torch of equal and fair measurement and statements, and I vote for you!!!

    Bill
    Only a virtuous people are capable of freedom. As nations become more corrupt and vicious, they have more need of masters.
    Benjamin Franklin

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    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Bill,

    Well. Alright. But only if my title is "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Ogre."

    On another note, I realized that I forgot to mention how the SL-20X/35X dimmer cap actually works!

    If you turn on the light just like normal, it comes on at full brightness, just like normal. If you then push the button on the end of the dimmer cap, (which is a membrane type button, but which also has a definite positive "click" feel when you activate it) then the light begins to dim, continuously and moderately, until after about 5 or so seconds, it has reached its dimmest point. This is pretty dim, but I wouldn't be able to say about how many lumens it is or anything. I think Phaserburn has a better idea about this than me. Now if you keep holding on to the button, it starts to brighten until after 5 seconds it is at full brightness again. If you were feeling psychedelic you could just keep holding it and trance out to the dimming and brightening cycle. hehe.

    If at any point you let go, the light stays at whatever brightness you had reached. If you push again, it will pick up where it left off, going in the same direction as it had been going.

    If you hold the tailcap button while you turn on, it starts at the dimmest setting and will begin to get brighter.

    If at any point you want full brightness for sure without having to think about it, just turn off the light, then turn on.

    If at any point you want to really freak yourself and others out with a light show, just click twice on the tailcap switch. Turning off or double-clicking again will return the light to normal running at full brightness.

    StreamLight, or whoever they contracted to do this dimmer cap, really got this one right. It is a PWM, uC controlled, rather sophistacted piece of work, and has got to be about 99 percent invisible in normal running. At first I was confused as to how it must get its power to operate because it is only connected to batt - and has no direct connection to batt +. Or so I thought. Then I realized that when you first turn the light on, it has a connection to batt+ through the filament (!). This must, I suspect, charge a capacitor which is used to power the uC and raise and lower the FET gate. When the voltage of the capacitor falls enough, the FET must stay closed again just long enough to charge the capacitor. And so on. Although it is probably happening very many times a second, but only for a fractional percentage of total on time.

    Anyway, however it works, it works well and I was pretty impressed with it. So much so that, just as Phaserburn says, I ordered my own SL-20X and dimmer cap after I sent his back. I just missed it too much. It's a great walking light. I also strong armed bwaites into giving me one of the much coveted and now rare 4AH Aero sticks for it.
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

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    Buttrock Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Some time ago, received a potted WA bulb and a smooth reflector and a peeled reflector from someone on CPF. This was supposed to be used in a Tigerlight.

    Anyways, I just put it in my aging SL-20x (and I have a dimmer tailcap) and it works fine.

    I'm using a stock battery stick (6v, 2500MAH). I was using a hi-cap. stick, but it was too unreliable and "dumped" too early; one of the cells is bad.

    I have some of the powerstream 1/2D cells, but haven't had the chance to use them, lately, or with this combo.

    --dan
    There's more to a light than its output.

    CPF Member 13...

  17. #17
    Flashaholic* moraino's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by Phaserburn
    Note: I have the dimmer/flasher tailcap from Streamlight on my SL-60. This has been a total CPF sleeper. This tailcap is great; it offers electronic continuous dimming/brightening, flashing, and the ability to turn the light on at it’s lowest setting without having to dim it. No one else makes anything like this. The SL-60 is so bright that even on it’s dimmest setting, you’ll have plenty of light to navigate, perform close up tasks, etc. Also makes a great candle mode as it’s flat and stable.

    I have been waiting for two years of this switch review. Many thanks to you and Jim for the good report.

    I am wondering if the thread of the tail cap the same as Mag D. I am pushing my luck I think. But it would be good news for those who has Mag1160 if it fits...

    Henry
    Last edited by moraino; 11-22-2005 at 11:55 PM.

  18. #18
    *Flashaholic* KevinL's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    You sickos are making me want an SL20X.. WITH the upgrades.
    Celebrating the ROP.. 5 years of history

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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    The SL-20/35X dimmer/flasher cap will NOT fit any of the mags. Sorry. But someone like DSpeck or McGizmo or tvodrd or FM could make a thread adaptor ring probably.

    dano,

    Yes. That was me. It is a 1274, which is a 7.2 volt lamp. It will be rather underpowered at 6.0 volts, I'm afraid. You will be MUCH happier with an 1160, and since you already have the reflector, that's all you need: one ring-potted WA1160 from me. I will also provide the fit o-ring. Do you still have the 5/64th allen wrench? That will be needed to install and focus, and/or remove a ring potted lamp into or from the reflectors.

    Drop me a PM or something (or post here).
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

  20. #20
    Flashaholic* Phaserburn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    The tailcap is slick, elegant and works like a champ, no question about it. Especially when you consider what many of us do burrowing tailcaps with resistors to get a simple two stage light.

    Quote Originally Posted by moraino
    I have been waiting for two years of this switch review. Many thanks to you and Jim for the good report.
    The Phaser: A nice EDC with great throw; heat and runtime can be issues.

    Best Diffusion Film!

  21. #21
    Flashaholic* Phaserburn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinL
    You sickos are making me want an SL20X.. WITH the upgrades.
    The Phaser: A nice EDC with great throw; heat and runtime can be issues.

    Best Diffusion Film!

  22. #22
    Flashaholic* Phaserburn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    I wanted to say officially that this work done by Jim is first-rate. Jim considers, ponders and then solves problems that not only didn't I see, but didn't even know existed. Major kudos to an engineering job well done, and done creatively!



    On minimum setting, I estimate the SL-60 puts out maybe 20-30 lumens or so. This is completely subjective on my part, but will give you a good ballpark. At least you know you're not getting L4 output on min (too much) and you're not getting Arc AAA output (too little) either. You can definitely use it for upclose work without blinding or glare problems. Is it lower color temp? Yes, but in a "major throttling back of a powerful monster" kind of way, instead of an "weak, decrepit orange my light sucks" kind of way.

    The FELO = Fair & Equal Lumens Ogre
    Last edited by Phaserburn; 11-23-2005 at 09:54 AM.
    The Phaser: A nice EDC with great throw; heat and runtime can be issues.

    Best Diffusion Film!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Will this bulb and reflector work in an old SL-20 or just the SL-20X?
    I think the bezels and lamp assemblies are the same.

    I'm looking to breathe new life into an old light and this is just the ticket.

  24. #24
    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by NotRegulated
    Will this bulb and reflector work in an old SL-20 or just the SL-20X?
    I think the bezels and lamp assemblies are the same.

    I'm looking to breathe new life into an old light and this is just the ticket.
    NotRegulated,

    I don't know, but I suspect that if the lamps and bezels are the same that, yes, it would have to work. But I can always put it back on the lathe again and trim it a little if it doesn't (free of charge). Or you can send me your whole light to begin with just to be sure. I've never seen (or even heard of until now) an SL-20. Interesting. What actually IS the difference, anyway?
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

  25. #25
    Moderator js's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    OK. One day late, but here are the pictures! First I have a pic of the modded 1940 with WA1160 ring-potted lamp installed next to a head-on view of the SL-20X head with fit o-ring installed. Notice that it is pushed down at the top and bottom and catarpillars out towards the camera at the left and right, sort of like the peremiter of a lays potato chip. The 1940 is modded more or less the same as for the TL head except that I don't have to touch the rim, and I remove more thickness from the outside of the nub/bore. Note that the inside is NOT touched, nor is any LENGTH removed from the reflector. This is necessary in order to allow use of my ring-potted lamps.



    Next is a picture of the old and new tail caps. The new, dimmer/flasher cap is on the right in front of the package in which it came.



    And here is a not so good picture of the inside of the dimmer cap (with spring removed). It was hard to light it without getting either glare or shadows. I chose some glare. It was lit by my USL, by the way. hehe.



    As for the (so-called) charging system of the SL-20X and 35X, I really don't feel like going over how lousy it is right now. So I won't.

    Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

    Oh, and Phaserburn, thanks so much for the kudos! I don't deserve such high praise. Really. Just doing my part to spread the lumens. But thanks!
    Last edited by js; 07-29-2014 at 12:49 AM. Reason: fix image links
    -Jim Sexton, creator of the M6-R, the TigerLight Upgrades, Fixture-ring lamp potting, the SL60, co-designer of the B90 Upgrade, and proponent of the SF A2, the SF M6 X-LOLA, Titanium, the Haiku, and the LunaSol 20

  26. #26

    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Quote Originally Posted by js
    NotRegulated,

    I don't know, but I suspect that if the lamps and bezels are the same that, yes, it would have to work. But I can always put it back on the lathe again and trim it a little if it doesn't (free of charge). Or you can send me your whole light to begin with just to be sure. I've never seen (or even heard of until now) an SL-20. Interesting. What actually IS the difference, anyway?
    Jim,
    Streamlight's SL-20X was preceded by the SL-20 model. I bought mine in 1982. It's pretty banged up with nicks, gouges and scratches but it works perfect. It has a different on/off switch than the 20X but the switch is in the same location.

  27. #27
    Flashaholic* John N's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Can someone point me to a source for the 4k mah battery packs, or higher capacity 1/2 D cells from which to make one?

    Thanks,

    -john

  28. #28
    *Flashaholic* bwaites's Avatar
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    John,

    There aren't any. Ginseng is working on a group buy in the Group Buy forum, but it's been delayed several times, since the distributor had to change manufacturers.

    Bill
    Only a virtuous people are capable of freedom. As nations become more corrupt and vicious, they have more need of masters.
    Benjamin Franklin

  29. #29

    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    SL20x & SL20 use the same lamp assemblies and battery packs. The SL-20 swith was a push down for monentary, and slide forward for continous. It's charger had a piece of double sided circuit board that slid into the slot at the rear of the switch under the movable part.

    SL20X left, SL-20 Right



    Very nice upgrade JS.

  30. #30
    Enlightened
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    Default Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!

    Jim,


    Do you have any beam shots of an SL-20X before and after the modification? Also, if I were to send you my SL-20X along with the tail cap you mention, how much would it cost and how long would it take to modify my light?

    Thanks,
    Gary

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