Foxfury Scout
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 36

Thread: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

  1. #1

    Lightbulb River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    River Rock 0.5watt 2x AAA from Target for $9.99


    It's available in this semi matte black and a shiney silver alumium.

    Size compared to some known lights -


    Heads -


    Vs. gen 2 MJLED drop-in for MiniMag 2AA


    Vs. Nite-Ize LED Drop-in for MiniMag 2AA


    Vs. 8LED 1AA "Xnova" New


    Vs. Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium)


    Current draw at end of beamshots -
    2x Duracell AAA supplied with light
    Open-circuit = 1.552V and 1.553V
    Current draw ~75mA.

    Comments: in daylight when I first got the River Rock 0.5w the beam seemed very purplish-blue, at first I thought it had a very purple tint. I've now gotten used to it, and it doesn't seem so purple any more.....

    Not shown in the beamshots the central hotspot does have a donut ring of purplish-blue.

  2. #2
    Flashaholic Skyclad01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    The Great L.A.
    Posts
    274

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Such a nice little light, isnt it?
    Nitecore D20 & NDI/Eagletac T10C2/Olight T20M/Dorcy 2D 4W/Dorcy 220 Rechargeable/Taskforce 2C Cree/Ray-O-Vac 3W & 1W 2aa/Coleman Max 3aaa Cree/Sharper Image Q3/Pelican M6 2330/Elektrolumens XM-3 (Thank You CPF)/Dorcy 3D & 3AAA Super 1W/Brinkmann 3W 3AAA/Golston V1 7W/LEDBeam/Fenix L1P, L2P & L0P

  3. #3
    Flashaholic*
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Brooklyn NY
    Posts
    3,836

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Mine has a slight darkspot in the beam, but hey it rocks!

  4. #4
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,266

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I bought three, ended up giving one away and keeping one. Took the other back. I wasn't that impressed with the dimmer two. Mine is ok. Mine does have and fairly decent hotspot and ok brightness for a 2AAA. I use mine on nights when I deliver pizza to see numbers on doors and when I'm walking between buildings and such. The other two were slightly dimmer, mostly flood with slightly dimmer less noticable hotspots.

    The momentary on button on mine has cracked in half, but it still works. Going to send them an email asking for a replacement tailcap.
    Last edited by InfidelCastro; 11-23-2005 at 08:38 PM.

  5. #5
    *Flashaholic* PlayboyJoeShmoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Shepherd, TX (where dat?)
    Posts
    11,043

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I had two, and gave the brighter one away to a coworker. Very VERY nice lights for 10 bucks!!!

    And if you think that's nice... go back and get one of the headlamps!!!
    http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2640/usflaghalfmastmdwht.gif

    PBJS



  6. #6
    Flashaholic goldenlight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Right here....
    Posts
    404

    Wink2 Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Mine has a somewhat irregular (a little blotchy) hotspot, and is quite blue. but is quite bright.

    It has found a home in the cupholder in my car. I've got several lights in the glovebox, and I EDC at least 3 now that it's cold out (coat pockets!) But I am finding that I use the little RR 0.5W 2 x AAA quite a lot, since it's so handy. My glovebox doesn't have an internal light in it, and it's pretty full of stuff, so i use the little RR light to find stuff in the glove box or under the seats, a lot. The color put me off a bit at first, but I'm used to it, now. (Hey, it was $10!)

    I don't lock out the tailcap, since it's nearly coming off the barrel when locked out. I decided to get a silver one, and that was a good decision, since it makes it easy to find in the dark. I like the looks of black flashlights much more, but really, it's not as practical as shiny silver, or bright yellow. That's why about 95% of my flashlights are black or natural HA III. Go figure....

    But for $10, the little RR 2AAA is a good bargain, and cheap enough to consider disposable. I'm storing it head down in the cupholder, and so far it hasn't fallen out. Nice little light, for the money.
    "Whoever is careless with the truth in small matters cannot be trusted with important matters".
    -Albert Einstein

    "La vengeance est un plat qui se mange froid"
    Pierre Ambroise Francois Choderios de LaClos (1741-1803)

  7. #7
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,266

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    My River Rock 2AAA is also quite blue. But I'd also say it's quite a bit brighter than my 2AA Mini-mag with Nite-Ize. Maybe twice as bright. The pictures above seem to paint a different picture.

    Course as I mentioned, it was also the best of three.

  8. #8

    Lightbulb Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    InfidelCastro wrote: "My River Rock 2AAA is also quite blue. But I'd also say it's quite a bit brighter than my 2AA Mini-mag with Nite-Ize. Maybe twice as bright. The pictures above seem to paint a different picture."

    Color/tint sometimes can give an impression of higher brightness, especially blue in normal indoors (incandscent) lighting - where it is predominately yellow - so the blue is more visible due to the higher color contrast.

    Also the River Rock 0.5w is pretty well focussed so its hotspot is more concentrated than the wider more "flood-like" hotspot of the Nite-Ize, its better throw would also make it look brighter.

    My River Rock 0.5w (although less bright) holds its own quite well against the 1watt Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium) - which shows that the River Rock 0.5w should be at least a good to average sample.

    Just an anecdote -
    when I first got up this morning in the bright sun-lit room I turned on the River Rock 0.5w and the hotspot really looked blue to me - almost like it was a blue LED.

    Now shining it around in a room lit by both daylight and a warm fluorescent coil bulb it looks pretty white (with some blue tint) - no where like it was a blue LED......

    There was another thread River Rock 2AAA Beam changes that asked if the beam tint/color changes.

    I think in my case it's simply my eyes/brain adapting -
    but could there be a tint/color shift as well?

  9. #9

    Question Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Just did a current draw measurement in comparison with the Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) and both the results were surprisingly LOW

    Current draw of this River Rock 0.5w 2x AAA = 60mA,
    with 2x AAA alkalines both with open-circuit readings of 1.495V
    (note this is lower than my earlier current draw measurements - as the batteries were new/fresh then)

    Compare this with the Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) = 144mA
    with one of the same AAA alkaline battery with Open-circuit 1.495V

    River Rock 0.5w 2AAA is pulling from the batteries a total of only 0.18 watts
    Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA is pulling from the battery a total of only 0.22 watts

    Even going back to the higher initial measurements on the River Rock 2xAAA -
    Current draw at end of beamshots -
    2x Duracell AAA supplied with light
    Open-circuit = 1.552V and 1.553V
    Current draw ~75mA.

    This is still pulling from the (fresh) batteries a total of only 0.23 watts

    We know that the step-up cicuits are no where near 100% efficiency -
    so the power at the actual LED has to be even lower.....

    So are these LEDs under-driven, or is the 0.5 watts rated some other way?

  10. #10
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,266

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Quote Originally Posted by UnknownVT
    Color/tint sometimes can give an impression of higher brightness, especially blue in normal indoors (incandscent) lighting - where it is predominately yellow - so the blue is more visible due to the higher color contrast.

    Also the River Rock 0.5w is pretty well focussed so its hotspot is more concentrated than the wider more "flood-like" hotspot of the Nite-Ize, its better throw would also make it look brighter.
    The sidespill alone is brighter than my NightIze Minimag.

  11. #11

    Question Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    InfidelCastro wrote:"The sidespill alone is brighter than my NightIze Minimag."

    WoW! that is dramatically brighter.

    I don't know what to say - I'm pretty sure the 2 Nite-Ize drop-ins I have are pretty normal and comparable in their brightness.

    The one sample of River Rock 0.5w 2AAA again seems good/normal - as shown by the side-by-side comparison beamshots - especially how it holds up so well against my Fenix L1 v2.5 1watt Luxeon.

    I recall you had more than one River Rock 0.5w 2AAA - was this bright one substantially/dramatically brighter than the others?

    Please also see my bit (above in Post #9) about the current draw and total power consumption of these "Nuwai" 0.5watt (including 2 samples of the Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) ) -
    they seem surprisingly low in the range of only 0.18 - 0.23 watts at the battery(s)

    Can you please do a current draw measurement (as well as the open circuit voltage of the batteries) on your bright River Rock 0.5watt 2AAA?

    Thanks

  12. #12
    *Flashaholic* Icebreak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    by the river
    Posts
    5,001

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    The beam shots show it to be similar in brightness to the Fenix.

    Is this true?

    I have the River Rock and was considering a Fenix.

  13. #13
    Flashaholic* zespectre's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Shenandoah Valley
    Posts
    1,902

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I bought one RR as an EDC... and have since purchased 10 more as gifts for others. It's going to be a BRIGHT Christmas!
    "Notorious collector of things that glow, shine, or blink"
    CPF # 9435

  14. #14

    Exclamation Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Icebreak wrote: "The beam shots show it to be similar in brightness to the Fenix.
    Is this true?"

    In a word - No -
    one has to be careful looking at beamshots - even ones that are side-by-side in the same photo - the first full exposure is a kind of "average" optimized exposure attempting to show the beam characteristics the best a camera can.

    The shortcoming is the limited dynamic range of the camera (or even film) as the hotspots are normally so bright - that they are grossly over-exposed so even if one hotspot is brighter than the other - the photo can't show it.

    That's the reason for the -2 Stops Underexposed shot which attempts to show the difference - again the hotspots are still over-exposed which cannot show the difference, unless they are quite dramatically different - the side-spills are better represented in the Underexposed beamshot - and tends to show the difference a bit better.

    Having said that the River Rock 0.5w 2AAA does hold up quite well against the Fenix L1 - but the Fenix is definitely brighter, and its beam is much smoother, it has a much, much nicer tint - and please remember mine is the Non-Premium model so a P(remium) model should be even better in tint.

    Just on sheer beam quality and brightness I would rate my Fenix L1 much higher than the River Rock -
    but for $10 the River Rock is great value - and I thought highly enough of it that I bought 2 of the Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) the smaller single AAA sibling 0.5watt and am very pleased with those too (see the linked comparison review).

  15. #15

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I recall getting about 100mA draw from my RiverRock 2AAA with
    fresh batteries. With NiMh, I get somewhere between 70 to
    90mH. One morning I left it on for 5 hours and it was still
    at the same brightness!

    If yours is not pulling close to 100 on a fresh cell, then
    it is not putting out enough light.

    Interestingly, the Nichia CS (Grmpy's group buy) in a photon
    clone comes surprisingly close to River Rock 2AAA. I have MJled
    cut in 2AA MiniMag on alkaline which is very similar to RR.
    Vincent, do you any trick to get useable bim shots from
    Canon ELF series digital camera?

  16. #16

    Exclamation Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "I recall getting about 100mA draw from my RiverRock 2AAA with fresh batteries.
    If yours is not pulling close to 100 on a fresh cell, then it is not putting out enough light."


    Ah! this really depends on the scale used on my digital multi-meter (DMM) -
    initially when I didn't know what the likely current draw was I used my normal 10A scale - and that showed 0.10A (that's 100mA) -
    being as that is less than 200mA - I moved it on to that more sensitive scale - and that's when I got ~75mA with fresh batteries. The current reading did vary a bit that's why I put the ~ sign in front to the figure, it jumped about a bit between something like 80+mA to 70mA.

    But my eyes and beamshots (eg: against a brighter Fenix L1) show that it is not underperforming - it is pretty bright - obviously not as bright as the one that InfidelCastro describes - which seems exceptionally bright.

    Even allowing for a 25% less current draw - that should not give a very dramatic difference in brightness level.

    Perhaps you'd be kind enough to please do some more current draw measurements with the batteries currently in the River Rock and see if it is still drawing 100mA? and please tell us what scale/sensitivity you're using?

    Thanks,

    BTW- even allowing for your 100mA with 2 AAA that's 3.0v x 0.1A = 0.3 watts which is still significantly below the rated 0.5watts, and that's at the battery only and not even allowing for the step-up circuit which we know is not 100% efficient.

  17. #17
    *Flashaholic* Icebreak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    by the river
    Posts
    5,001

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    UnknownVT -

    I'm usually a little better at reading beamshots. After reading your reply I studied them again and can now make more sense of them. Thank you. That is some good work and the effort is appreciated.

  18. #18

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I always use the 10A scale on my DMM. I trust those number more than the one I get at the lower range. The lower range goes upto 400mA. Also on my DMM, 10A input is different and is fuse protected. It must be lot less less load on the cicuit to use the 10A scale. I will try to find fresh alkaline AAA and see what readings I get. Edit:- Just measured 2AAA, each no-load 1.567V, input current 120mA. I have also momentarily ran it on 3AAA NiMh (3.6V), the current goes to 200mA and it become much brighter.

    I am little bit concerned that your beamshots show that River Rock is approaching your Fenix. Yes, your Fenix L1 is brighter, but it does not seem to blow River Rock out of the water. Am I expecting too much from Fenix?

    If it is a camera trick, can I request you to underexpose 2nd shot more?
    Last edited by Vikas Sontakke; 12-01-2005 at 07:39 PM.

  19. #19
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,266

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Quote Originally Posted by UnknownVT
    InfidelCastro wrote:"The sidespill alone is brighter than my NightIze Minimag."

    WoW! that is dramatically brighter.

    I don't know what to say - I'm pretty sure the 2 Nite-Ize drop-ins I have are pretty normal and comparable in their brightness.

    The one sample of River Rock 0.5w 2AAA again seems good/normal - as shown by the side-by-side comparison beamshots - especially how it holds up so well against my Fenix L1 v2.5 1watt Luxeon.

    I recall you had more than one River Rock 0.5w 2AAA - was this bright one substantially/dramatically brighter than the others?
    No, I wouldn't say substantially. The sidespill is about identical. It is noticable though, mostly around the hotspot. It has a little bit more throw than the other two had at the expense of more artifacts in the beam, especially around the hotspot. But yea, the ambient light is basically the same.

    Can you please do a current draw measurement (as well as the open circuit voltage of the batteries) on your bright River Rock 0.5watt 2AAA?

    Thanks
    I sure would like to, could you tell me an easy way to do this? I have a couple of multimeters. Want to be careful not to burn out the fuse.

  20. #20

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    My Nuwai 2AAA .5w lights are definately blown away by my Fenix L1P. There is no comparison except that the beam patterns are similar. The Fenix is WAY brighter than the 2AAA .5w.

    I've been carrying the Nuwai since I got them last January and have been carrying both the Nuwai and the Fenix since I received the Fenix.

  21. #21

    Arrow Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    InfidelCastro wrote: "I sure would like to, could you tell me an easy way to do this? I have a couple of multimeters. Want to be careful not to burn out the fuse."

    To get the current draw of the River Rock 0.5w 2AA -

    Unscrew the tailcap of the flashlight.

    Set your multimeter to a range that can take at least 200mA**.

    Place the negative probe on the negative end of the battery -
    now touch the positive probe to the body tube end - make sure you make good contact.

    The multimeter should be giving your the current draw reading.

    These simple steps apply to almost any flashlight -
    except ** the range chosen -
    often Luxeon LED lights can and will draw 300 - 1,000mA (sometimes more for higher powered Luxeons) - so choose the range that is capable of handling those currents. If in any doubt start with the 10A scale - take the initial reading - the resolution may be too low to get enough significant digits if the reading is below about 100mA - once the initial rough reading is known - switch to the more appropriate scale/range if necessary, to get the better resolution.

    Of course if you have an auto-ranging Digital MultiMeter - then you don't need to set the range - other than to make sure the current range can take the estimated current you're about to measure.

    For the River Rock 0.5w 2AAA - this should be more than likely < 200mA - ie: in the range of about 60 to 120mA.

  22. #22

    Exclamation Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "I always use the 10A scale on my DMM. I trust those number more than the one I get at the lower range. The lower range goes upto 400mA. Also on my DMM, 10A input is different and is fuse protected. It must be lot less less load on the cicuit to use the 10A scale."

    I use the 10A scale alot too - but when a current reading goes below 200mA I switch to my next scale which is 200mA.

    The problem is the actual resolution using the 10A scale - 100mA is 1% of the full scale - this is about the margin of error specs for meters ie: a 1% error of the full scale of 10A is actually +/- 100mA - so the reading may well be pretty dubious, or even meaningless, as 100mA is exactly the rated 1% error
    So strictly the reading is 100mA +/- 100mA -
    which means it could be anywhere between 0 to 200mA......

    Whereas using your 400mA scale 100mA is now 25% of the full scale and if the margin of error is still 1% then your resolution will be +/- 4mA

    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "I will try to find fresh alkaline AAA and see what readings I get. Edit:- Just measured 2AAA, each no-load 1.567V, input current 120mA."

    I don't doubt your reading on the 10A scale, since I also got 100mA on my 10A scale with fresh batteries.

    Please just humor me and please take a reading on your 400mA scale?

    Also I would like to know what you measure for the current draw for good but not fresh batteries - ie: ones that have been used - but the light still looks bright to you. Again please use the 400mA scale.

    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "I am little bit concerned that your beamshots show that River Rock is approaching your Fenix. Yes, your Fenix L1 is brighter, but it does not seem to blow River Rock out of the water. Am I expecting too much from Fenix?
    If it is a camera trick, can I request you to underexpose 2nd shot more? "

    There is no camera trick - why on earth would I do that?
    Please read my explanation of the River Rock vs. Fenix beamshots in my preceding post #14 - the one immediately before yours.

    Here on the one hand you're saying my River Rock is underperforming because of my current readings -
    then the River Rock is not blown away by my Fenix L1 -
    so is the River Rock all of a sudden brighter? -
    or is the Fenix underperforming too?

    Please make up your mind.

    I do take time and effort to get my beamshots right -
    I do side-by-side comparison beamshots because then the exposures are on the same shot -
    to eliminate problems about different exposures, focus, framing, scale, and color balance.

    and yet I am still accused of possible camera trickery.........
    I can't win, can I.......

  23. #23
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,266

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    The current draw on mine (the one with the brightest hotspot) fluctuates from 115-120mA on the 200mA scale. Mostly seems to hang around 118-119mA.

    I'll have to check the other one next time I get a hold of it, but I assume it's the same. Will check to make sure though.

  24. #24

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I apologize if I came across as doubting your camera
    skills. That was far from my mind. You have the best
    beamshots in this forum, bar none.

    The "camera trick" was bad choice but was not intended
    as an insulting comment.

    I do not have Fenix but itching to buy one. You have given
    explanation about the 2AAA and Fenix comarison shots. Even
    at -2 stop underexposure, 2AAA seems to be comparable to Fenix

    When I compare 2AAA with either Costco 2AA or S1801 in my
    house, there is NO comparison.

    I will use the 400mA scale later over the weekend.
    From observing my DMM, the 10A scale seem to have 10mA
    resolution. I agree with you that the acuracy is probably
    not as good as 10mA but the relative repeatability should
    be very good. To put it another way, I do not expect 10
    different readings taken on 10A scale for one specific
    configuration to vary more than 10mA. Further along
    the line, if S1801 is taking 500mA on the same scale, I can
    be quite confident in stating that it is indeed taking 5 times
    the current than the 2AAA. So for relative comparson, I
    stick with the same scale.
    Interestingly, couple years ago, I had opportunity to use
    very expensive Fluke DMM at my work and my cheap DMM matched
    the readings quite well.

    Once agin, I really feel bad that you felt maligned but
    I can assure you that was the furthest thing on my mind.

    - Vikas

  25. #25

    Arrow Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "I apologize if I came across as doubting your camera skills. That was far from my mind. You have the best
    beamshots in this forum, bar none."

    Hey, no problem, I wasn't angry. So don't worry about it.


    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "When I compare 2AAA with either Costco 2AA or S1801 in my house, there is NO comparison."

    Ah, OK, with the S1801 and Costco 2AA you have a very good idea how the Fenix is likely to perform. These are very much in the same ballpark of brightness inspite the fact the Costco has very different beam characteristics.

    I find at closer distances like less than about 9feet the River Rock 0.5w 2AAA holds up quite well against the Fenix and any of the other 1w you've cited.

    But go beyond 10feet or more then the 0.5w River Rock will seem to be "blown away".

    Since 9feet is like standing in the middle of an average large'ish room - the 0.5w River Rock would seem to at least to hold its own against most 1w Luxeons.

    BUT if you go to the end of the room and shine them right across the full length - then the 1 watters are very obviously brighter.

    My beamshots are taken at short distances (9" or so) to be able to show the full side-spills on two lights - so that would be their limitation.

    Vikas Sontakke wrote: "From observing my DMM, the 10A scale seem to have 10mA resolution. I agree with you that the acuracy is probably
    not as good as 10mA but the relative repeatability should be very good. Further along the line, if S1801 is taking 500mA on the same scale, I can be quite confident in stating that it is indeed taking 5 times the current than the 2AAA."

    You have corroboration of about 115-120mA current draw as measured by InfidelCastro the post above yours.

    Like I said I also got 100mA on my 10A scale - but for some reason when I switched to the 200mA scale it read 75mA on fresh batteries - so maybe there is something wrong with my 200mA scale. I'll do some more measurements.

    Just a side comment - if your S1801 draws 500mA - that's the same as my readings (obviously on the 10A scale) so it would appear that our DMM's somewhat agree.


    I just posted this in the Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) thread -

    It would appear that the River Rock 0.5w 2AAA might be fully regulated -
    as the same light is sold under the Nuwai label -
    0.5 Watt LED Flashlight (Nuwai 2AAA batteries) N2FX-TM311H - the AmondoTech.com webpage claims -
    "DC/DC circuitry maintains stable light output for maximum duration, light output does not drop off like unregulated LED. "

    However I just seen Roy's reply Post #10 - where his runtime plots seem to refute this.

  26. #26

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Even with the Fluke DMM, I used to get very different
    readings on the two scales. Does your DMM use different
    physical plug for 10A? Mine does and because of the low
    resistance introduced in the circuit, causes least disturbance.
    I recall that once I had noticed less bright light when I
    used the 400mA scale.

    A while ago, Peter G of Arc had given very nice explanation
    of different kind of regulation and the compromises involved
    in choosing one over the other. The voltage boost circuitry
    in 2AAA (or 1AAA) can be designed in such a way to minimise
    the drop in the brightness agaist the battery strength. For
    example, 25%drop in battery voltage might drop the voltage
    supplied to LED by 15% etc.

    I am eyeing Orb, Jill, Fenix, Q3, SL ProPoly but will have
    to select at most one. My better half is already fed up
    with my fetish and I need to choose very wisely.

    - Vikas

  27. #27
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,266

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Mine dimmed noticably after a bit of runtime. I can't imagine the light is fully regulated. I put some old used (but in better shape) batteries after the originals started to get dim and there was a good increase in brightness.

  28. #28

    Arrow Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    InfidelCastro wrote: "Mine dimmed noticably after a bit of runtime. I can't imagine the light is fully regulated. I put some old used (but in better shape) batteries after the originals started to get dim and there was a good increase in brightness."

    Yep, both you and Roy's runtime plots would indicate this is not the full regulation we know.

    The River Rock 0.5w 2AAA packaging actually says:
    ". Regulated Circuitry
    Provides Maximum Light
    Output throughout Entire
    Battery Life"

    Whereas the TM-311H on the Shykuang page does NOT mention any regulation (Shykuang is the actual manufacturer of the light) - so it would appear that the marketing companies are claiming regulation when there is only a DC/DC step-up.

  29. #29

    Exclamation Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    Vikas Sontakke wote: "Even with the Fluke DMM, I used to get very different readings on the two scales. Does your DMM use different physical plug for 10A? Mine does and because of the low resistance introduced in the circuit, causes least disturbance."

    Yes, I do have to change sockets to use the 10A scale.

    My DMM can give quite different current readings between the 10A and the 200mA scales and even if this happens as you say on an expensive Fluke DMM - this still does not inspire confidence in my readings -

    Here are some more readings - I used 2 pairs of alkaline AAA batteries - Duracells, and reputable supermarket own brand (Kroger) they all are in good condition and as far as I can see they all seem as bright as each other.
    These are the readings on the River Rock 0.5w 2AAA without any further comments -

    (A) = 10A scale
    (B) = 200mA scale

    2x Duracell alk AAA 1.485V + 1.484V
    current = 0.06A (A) 54.6mA (B)

    2x Kroger alk AAA 1.461V + 1.468V
    current = 0.06A (A) 57.0mA (B)

    Despite the low looking readings - this River Rock 0.5w 2AAA still looks very bright and holds up well against my Fenix, and is slightly just noticably brighter than the two Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) I have.

    Click on that link to see how widely the 10A scale can differ from the 200mA scale in the readings in post #13

  30. #30
    *Flashaholic* PlayboyJoeShmoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Shepherd, TX (where dat?)
    Posts
    11,043

    Default Re: River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

    I don't have a really great multi meter but on the 200Ma scale my RR2AAA pulls ~119.5Ma which seems to be inline with what others have seen.
    http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2640/usflaghalfmastmdwht.gif

    PBJS



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •