PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build (Now 1140W) . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added

[petrev]

Thanks to LarryK, PlasmaMan, JimmyM, LuxLuthor and . . .

Historical Credits:
Crosman451 - The Sleeper,
LarryK - LK14,
Plasmaman - A123 Version LK14
JimmyM - JM-SST and how to boost to a double FET +Volume Control
Inspiration by Ra The Maxablaster

Project - Make a LarryK14 (Par 64 GE-Q4559X 28 volt 600 watt Lamp) and then fit a 1000W Landing Light (Par 64 GE-4556 28 volt 1000 watt Lamp)

Using Parts List

JM-SST (JimmyM Soft-Starter with Trim)
DeWalt V36 Pack (10xA123) (eBay)
inc. DeWalt built-in charger
DeWalt Pack Power-Charger (eBay)
UK Homebase 5,000,000 CP Lantern
Par 64 GE-Q4559X 28 volt 600 watt Lamp (SkyGeek)(Google +Try Variant Spellings)
Par 64 GE-4556 28 volt 1000 watt Lamp (SkyGeek)(Google +TVS)
Muldental 6.0 sqmm, 0.75 and 0.50 UltraFlexible Silicone Cable (also Google Super Flex)
2x Deans 50A Male and Female (1 Female PCB mounted)
1Meg Pot

Note: Q4559X (MBCP 765,000)with halogen capsule is brighter than standard Q4559 (MBCP 600,000)

Note: 4556 not listed in current GE/Silvania/Ushio literature

Alternative. . . 4557 Dual filament version 400/1000 ? (MBCP 600,000) ~ Bigger, less bright hot spot but more total output than Q4559X same as 4556 . . .

I wanted to use the De-Walt pack almost as is - stripped of outer casing but utilising the standard charger. The pack in V1 form is very simple as everything stays where it is and just need to be strapped together. The V2 pack (Slim and Tall) need. the built-in charger to be relocated and the balancing wires extended.

An Emergency Cut-Out Switch is made from a Deans Female on PCB and a Male with a wire loop. This has the added function of providing an external position to check current using a DC Clamp Meter.

Artists Mock-Up



1000W Filament



600W Filament (in Halogen Capsule)



Dremel edge ring to accomodate deeper PAR64



Dremel Battery Bay - Less needed for V2, only requires a small amount from the rear door bottom edge and fillets on cross screw housings



Dremel slot for copper heatsink (remote mounted FETs from JM-SST)



1 FET removed from JM-SST, mounted on heatsink and second added !



FETs in place



Easy V1 pack - everything is where it was in the original DeWalt package



More work - Extend balance connectors and cut slots in top cage to allow underside connectors to bed in nicely



V1 - Chamfer front edge of connector to allow easy access to battery bay



V2 fit in with the bottom edge taken down about 1/8 inch



6.0sqmm cable and 50A Deans - The standard DeWalt connections are not rated as highly so are only used for charging



Charging V2 pack



FETs mounted and cabled (White is gate signal and Black is Neg In and PWM-Lamp Neg, Small black is Batt-Neg to the JM-SST)



JM-SSTmounted -> Red - Switched Pos, White - Gate Signal, Black - Batt Neg



Deans Emergency Cut-Off PCB and Main Switch to JM-SST



FET Copper Sink + Xtra External heat sink ( I had it spare so . . . )



Emergency Cut-Off, JM-SST Trim Pot and Volume Knob (now connected - working well - HMMMMM)



Cut-Off again



Final (?) Item

Originally Posted by petrev

Hi

Added Voltmeter (Battery Pack Voltage)

and second power pack for double runtime and less stress . . .



Amazing how long "just" adding a voltmeter and a second pack takes . . .

Cheers
Pete

24 Feb 2008

Meter Readings :

1000W Lamp
28V @ 36.0A
1008W

Double Pack 1000W
30V @ 38.0A
(1140W)


600W Lamp
30V @ 22.4A
672W

Pete

+ Beam-Shots Added
+ Video Added below

Originally Posted by petrev

Some sort of Beam-Shots

All @ ISO100 (equivalent)

Sunlight on wall with 1000W
f10 @ 1/400th


Ceiling Bounce - 600W LarryK14 (672W)
f8 @ 1/400th


Ceiling Bounce - 1000W XK21 (1008W)
f8 @ 1/400th


Outdoors - Osram 64625 FM3" 4xA123
f4 @ 1/2sec Auto White-Balance (Wrong)


Outdoors - 600W LarryK14
f4 @ 1/2sec (Incan-WB)


Outdoors - 1000W XK21
f4 @ 1/2sec


ORIGINAL - FULL SIZE IMAGES - Thumbnails

LK14
.

XK21


Cheers
Pete

VIDEO -

Originally Posted by petrev

Outdoor Video (7.7MB)
http://www.mediafire.com/?3yi1sejwdpz

5761 then 623 then 1000W

[Bogus1]

Wow, Pete! Very nice

[Cydonia]

Sleeper mega mod!!

[electromage]

That looks like a well-thought-out build.

What is the metal box on top of the battery pack?

It seems like that PAR lamp would get too hot for the plastic case. Does it reflect enough out the front to keep temps down?

Oh, and this thread seems startlingly devoid of any pictures with the lamp on...

[Stereodude]

Pardon the stupid question, but is that a HID?

[paulr]

HID = high intensity discharge = basically an arc lamp. They are around 3x as efficient as incandescents but have various shortcomings and are expensive. In portable lights most of the ones we see are 35 watts and 3000 or so lumens. The 1kw light in this thread is not HID, it's a monstrous incandescent. Wow!

[petrev]

Words Added . . .

Originally Posted by Bogus1

Wow, Pete! Very nice

Originally Posted by Cydonia

Sleeper mega mod!!

Thanks - Good to hear from you E
Thanks Cydonia

Originally Posted by electromage

That looks like a well-thought-out build.

What is the metal box on top of the battery pack?

It seems like that PAR lamp would get too hot for the plastic case. Does it reflect enough out the front to keep temps down?

Oh, and this thread seems startlingly devoid of any pictures with the lamp on...

Still work to be done . . . !

Metal Box is the DeWalt built in Charger/Balancer.

PAR lamp throws almost all the heat right out of the middle of the lens. Almost none gets backwards - Remarkable.

BUT the Pack . . . More on that in a moment.

Test run last night and then sleep as had worked allmost all day soldering and fitting and posting photos . . . too tired to add words and do more photos !

Originally Posted by Stereodude

Pardon the stupid question, but is that a HID?

Originally Posted by paulr

HID = high intensity discharge = basically an arc lamp. They are around 3x as efficient as incandescents but have various shortcomings and are expensive. In portable lights most of the ones we see are 35 watts and 3000 or so lumens. The 1kw light in this thread is not HID, it's a monstrous incandescent. Wow!

That about sums it up - Thanks paulr (correction)

Now - Heat

The PAR64 1000W produces a lot of heat out of the front but doesn't get hot in the back and sides - so that's great.

BUT - CAUTION

Pack gets very HOT during a "long" run. Maybe the DeWalt pack strapping is not rated at 35A - the std. output/charge connections are almost certainly not, which is one reason why I added the Deans. All the data on the RC-Groups threads and other sources say that the A123 cells don't heat up much even under extreme load (30A+). Tried an extended 3 minute run and nothing got too hot - or so I thought - but in fact the pack was boiling hot and at 35A the power drop at the end was truly precipitous. Whether from heat or over-discharge a cell had failed 0.0V (the others were at 2.9V)

So no extended runs, and I have ordered a small Volt Display to add on the top to monitor Pack Voltage.

More photos when I get a chance . . .

Cheers
Pete

[JimmyM]

Smashing Build! I really like how you made the heatsink. How warm do those things get?
My regulator will use a MOSFET driver, which can drive 1-4 MOSFETs. Instead of building more boards for specific L14K type designs. I thought I would just make the JM-SSR capable of driving multiple MOSFETs in it's base form. Then just add external MOSFETs.
I know plasmaman had a failure using a single MOSFET and a 1000W bulb. So it looks like 600W is OK with a heatsink on a JM-SST, but 1000W requires dual FETs.
Bravo!
How about beam shots?

[Stereodude]

Originally Posted by paulr

HID = high intensity discharge = basically an arc lamp. They are around 3x as efficient as incandescents but have various shortcomings and are expensive. In portable lights most of the ones we see are 35 watts and 3000 or so lumens. The 1kw light in this thread is not HID, it's a monstrous incandescent. Wow!

I know what an HID is, it just wasn't immediately clear if this was an HID or not to me. Though I should have figured it out from a picture of the filament.

[AlexGT]

We need beamshots!!!!

Wow! Nice build! I have one of those spotlights laying around, how much did you spend on all the parts? Might build one myself.

AlexGT

[petrev]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

We need beamshots!!!!

Wow! Nice build! I have one of those spotlights laying around, how much did you spend on all the parts? Might build one myself.

AlexGT

Hi Alex

Beamshots as soon as poss.

Cost varies greatly depending on where you are ?

US cost is about
$40-60 for the lamp eg. Here or $35 GEQ4559X Here
$90+ for the pack eg. on eBay $110 inc. post
$16 for the charger eg. on eBay $36 inc. post
$4 cable
$8 FETs eg Here $4 each
$25 JM-SST
$8 Deans eg. Here

+HOST ~$20 (UK~£20 !!!!!!)

Google/eBay item for more choice / your area
+ anything I forgot . . . postage ! ?

Cheers
Pete

[JetskiMark]

Hello petrev,

Congratulations on your outstanding build. Excellent pics and post too.

I have a Q4559X. How does the 4556 compare? Is it considerably brighter? Is the beam similar? Does it throw farther? How is the spill?

I am curious because my HyperBlitz beats my Q4559X LarryK14 in all areas except spill.

Is there any way for you to take comparison shots between the Q4559X and the 4556? There are a few CPF members that are familiar with the former and it would be great to get an idea of how much brighter the 4556 is.

Regards,
Mark

[petrev]

Originally Posted by JetskiMark

Hello petrev,

Congratulations on your outstanding build. Excellent pics and post too.

I have a Q4559X. How does the 4556 compare? Is it considerably brighter? Is the beam similar? Does it throw farther? How is the spill?

I am curious because my HyperBlitz beats my Q4559X LarryK14 in all areas except spill.

Is there any way for you to take comparison shots between the Q4559X and the 4556? There are a few CPF members that are familiar with the former and it would be great to get an idea of how much brighter the 4556 is.

Regards,
Mark

Hi Mark

I think it is quite a bit brighter, maybe more focused but not sure (maybe not quite as white as not overdriven - but still impressive - trouble is they both make you go a bit blind ! ). I really need to get it next to another one or get out there and do the photos - My nice camera is bust and my Pocket Camera just isn't as easy for taking manual shots, but I will get to it soon . . .

Plasmaman is building one - he has the LarryK14 that inspired me to do a similar mod and then we found the bigger bulb and thought - Why Not?
At some point (soon) we will get them together and do a side by side comparison . . . easy to load either lamp of course.

Love your HyperBlitz by the by

Cheers Pete

[JetskiMark]

Originally Posted by petrev

....At some point (soon) we will get them together and do a side by side comparison....

That would be great and I'm really looking forward to it.

Originally Posted by petrev

Love your HyperBlitz

Thank you, it is a lot of fun. I need to build something considerably brighter now though. The madness never ends....

Regards,
Mark

[3rd_shift]

Man!! That is kickin'!
1000+ watts!
I sure wish you could make it to the Dallas Fort Worth area this summer with that monster.
Keep up the good work!

[divine]

Originally Posted by 3rd_shift

Man!! That is kickin'!
1000+ watts!
I sure wish you could make it to the Dallas Fort Worth area this summer with that monster.
Keep up the good work!

Maybe he can just shine it in your general direction.

[cat]

HOLY!

Let.there.be.LIGHT!


I like the way the charging grommet's used for the trim pot, and the copper heat sink slit.


What I don't get is why..the two battery packs, V1 and V2. And two lamps.
Pity about the Dewalt pack, getting so hot. Disappointing.

Thanks for the photos.

[Raoul_Duke]

Well done Pete. V-Nice.

[ez78]

This is great. I might upgrade my Larryk. Comparison shots between the original and this would be interesting.

[petrev]

Originally Posted by cat

HOLY!

Let.there.be.LIGHT!
I like the way the charging grommet's used for the trim pot, and the copper heat sink slit.

What I don't get is why..the two battery packs, V1 and V2. And two lamps.
Pity about the Dewalt pack, getting so hot. Disappointing.
Thanks for the photos.

Hi Cat

Thanks for spotting the trim pot behind the charging grommet - I thought that worked out really neat too.

Why two battery packs ?
Well the idea was to produce a simple pack from the DeWalt that could be charged using the standard charger that is available really cheaply (?) to U.S. so that people without A123 chargers might benefit . . .

That is the V1 - Straight out of the Std. Pack and just strap it all together and add the BIG output cables and Deans plug - easy and quick !

V2 is just because I might be getting another host that has a narrow/taller battery compartment so I decided to try to make a pack that would fit both hosts.

If someone wants to copy this build then just do the simple V1 - it works fine and only needs a bit more Dremel work on the inside.

. . . And - Why two Lamps ?
Answer - Personally I think the Std. LarryK14 Q4559X is probably the most "sensible" as it runs for a bit longer (22A vs 36A) and everything will be less stressed - but - as I saw the 1000W lamp existed I just had to find out if it would work and whether it was much brighter/sharper/impressive ??? I think I will probably actually "use" the Q4559X version more often but the 1000W is now just a swap away when extra is needed.

Originally Posted by Raoul_Duke

Well done Pete. V-Nice.

Ta Mate

Originally Posted by ez78

This is great. I might upgrade my Larryk. Comparison shots between the original and this would be interesting.

Hope to get some beam shots tonight if I don't screw it all up fitting the Volume-Mod !!!!!!!!!

Cheers
Pete

[cat]

Oh, I think you pointed out the trim pot, but it just took me a few moments to realise that the grommet was already there.

V1, V2... I thought (from some RC stuff I read) that the charger was built into [one of] them.

The two lamps... ok, yes, I get it. And maybe the Dewalt packs will survive with the 600W lamp?

[petrev]

Originally Posted by cat

Oh, I think you pointed out the trim pot, but it just took me a few moments to realise that the grommet was already there.

V1, V2... I thought (from some RC stuff I read) that the charger was built into [one of] them.

The two lamps... ok, yes, I get it. And maybe the Dewalt packs will survive with the 600W lamp?

Hi Cat

Both V1 and V2 use the built-in DeWalt charger.

As far as I can ascertain the charger/balancer electronics are built into the DeWalt pack and are in the metal piggy-back lump. The Yellow thing the pack sits in while charging is really mostly a 36V power supply with some LEDs to show status and faults - these may well be derived from the charger/balancer.

I think the pack may hold up much better at only 22A. I can't find any data on what real DeWalt tools consume, power wise, but the power wires that connect the pack to the built-in charger look like only about 15A max !

Cheers
Pete

[petrev]

Some sort of Beam-Shots

All @ ISO100 (equivalent)

Sunlight on wall with 1000W
f10 @ 1/400th


Ceiling Bounce - 600W LarryK14 (672W)
f8 @ 1/400th


Ceiling Bounce - 1000W XK21 (1008W)
f8 @ 1/400th


Outdoors - Osram 64625 FM3" 4xA123
f4 @ 1/2sec Auto White-Balance (Wrong)


Outdoors - 600W LarryK14
f4 @ 1/2sec (Incan-WB)


Outdoors - 1000W XK21
f4 @ 1/2sec


ORIGINAL - FULL SIZE IMAGES - Thumbnails

LK14
.

XK21


Cheers
Pete

[ez78]

Alright, thanks for those pics. Seems to give a noticeable boost over the 600W version and spot it nice and round. So this might be 20-22k lumens. I think the bulb is only rated for 25 hour life but that does not really matter in this type of use. Nice mod.

[JimmyM]

That 1000W light is impressive.
Is that now, in fact, the most powerful hand held light? 1008W

[cat]

I think the 600W is ok, given the current draw problem with the 1000W.

Why am I bothering to build a 64625.


Pete, where'd you get the copper sheet/strip for the heatsink? I've just come back from looking at plumbing stuff and window latches, looking for something for converting my charging clamp to do parallel.

[petrev]

Originally Posted by JimmyM

That 1000W light is impressive.
Is that now, in fact, the most powerful hand held light? 1008W

Could be ?

The Ra Maxablaster gets the throw record I think, but the beam is not the same in any way.

Originally Posted by cat

I think the 600W is ok, given the current draw problem with the 1000W.

Why am I bothering to build a 64625.


Pete, where'd you get the copper sheet/strip for the heatsink? I've just come back from looking at plumbing stuff and window latches, looking for something for converting my charging clamp to do parallel.

The 64625 is great and really useful - hangs off a belt much better, and lasts longer too - just not the same self blinding capability.

Agree 600W is more of a "practical" lamp

Have fitted the Volume conversion now and the JM-SST(+V) works great - just a bit noisy - not really a stealth light ! Creates a wonderful industrial hummm at lower settings.

I got the piece of copper from my local metal merchant as an offcut - I think it's 18 guage about 0.6mm thick cost 50p. They do the same stuff at craft and model shops I think. Thin enough to cut easily and bend if necessary. Thicker would be better for your clamps though.

Cheers
Pete

[wallyrulz]

Originally Posted by petrev

Agree 600W is more of a "practical" lamp

Love the use of the word "practical".

That is a truly awesome build. Nice detail, and I like your use of inexpensive parts. The first Mag85 I built cost WAY more in parts, and was pretty hard to find, and was a total pain in the butt to charge 9 AA cells individually .

These A123 cells are going to change a lot for flashaholics.

Thanks for sharing the build.

[wallyrulz]

I know it goes without saying here, but I sure am glad you were using A123. If regular lithiums had gotten that hot, you would have been holding a grenade .

Question, if it was the batteries that got hot, wouldn't that imply that the batteries themselves had exceeded their capacity? If the wiring had not been up to that amperage, it seems like the wiring and not the batteries would have gotten hot. But then again, me talking about electrical stuff would be like asking hillary clinton to ... oh, never mind.

[petrev]

Originally Posted by wallyrulz

I know it goes without saying here, but I sure am glad you were using A123. If regular lithiums had gotten that hot, you would have been holding a grenade .

Question, if it was the batteries that got hot, wouldn't that imply that the batteries themselves had exceeded their capacity? If the wiring had not been up to that amperage, it seems like the wiring and not the batteries would have gotten hot. But then again, me talking about electrical stuff would be like asking hillary clinton to ... oh, never mind.

Hi

Wouldn't want to try 36A with LiIons and yes if they got as hot as the A123s then . . .

The wiring of the pack is welded to the aluminium canister and the neg. cap so difficult to tell which is causing the heat build-up but had not expected this sort of heat at "only" ~15C

- to quote FlyElectric

Temperature in use - Excellent (luke-warm at 15C)

full A123 Comparisons text HERE

Cheers Pete