DVD burners that rock for diodes.

[Kenom]

The purpose of this thread is to educate and let others know of our own success. It is my hope for this to one day become a sticky and people looking to make thier own DVD burner lasers can come to this list of DVD burners and choose from the list which burner to get to make thier own Laser.

Essentially what you do is if you have torn into a DVD burner for the specific purpose of harvesting a DVD Laser diode, post what your findings were. 1. What was the brand? 2. What was the model #? 3. Was the diode open or closed? 4. What kind of power did you get out of it?

I will start things off with my own experience in this and my own findings thus far.

1. Plextor
2. Px-708a
3. Diode was closed
4. Output power in the range of 100mw.

[Corona]

By "open or closed" do you mean if the diode package has a window (glass over output aperture) or not (as many cheap reds have none for cost reasons)?

I have a burner coming for a project and will participate, though I have no power meter...

[KrisP]

1. Pioneer
2. DVRA07
3. Closed
4. Don't know

1. Pioneer
2. DVRA09
3. Closed
4. Don't know

1. Pioneer
2. DVR112
3. Open
4. Don't know

[Kenom]

Corona by open I mean that there is no glass covering the output aperature. Closed has glass.

Thanks for your input Krisp.

[Corona]

1. LG
2. GSA-H42N
3. Uncovered (open).
4. Melts through a trash bag. Makes cigar butts smoke (blackened tobacco). Pops balloons with black marker spot. Won't easily light a match, but I'll be trying again.

Operating at 150mA in Elly-based assembly, 10 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. Assembly has variable focus and Aixiz brass module, plastic aspheric lens.

I've run it for in excess of 5 minutes at a time and it doesn't even feel warm. The Elly body does a great job of heatsinking the laser module!

The size / length of the semiconductor laser in the diode is way cool; it's easily 3mm long. One problem this introduces in the Elly (as I make them) is it places the output mirror facet a bit closer to the collimating lens, preventing point-blank focus (the brass collar / lens has to be unscrewed too far - all the way off if you're not careful). It will safely (?) achieve about a 6 inch (15cm) focal distance to a sharp spot, and adjusts out to a fairly well collimated beam for general "oh wow" duty and beam shots.

Against my ~25mW greenie, it appears to have about equal luminosity both to the eye and digital camera. It's a whole lotta red!

[Kenom]

Thanks for the input. Doesn't anyone have any experience with which DVD burners netted you a good diode?

[Aseras]

NEC good, 150-180mw

LG good, but open can ( when i say open can I mean bare diode no metal at all not just a missing window ) 200mw+, but fragile as hell, every one has died while i tried to make it into something.

[Gazoo]

Hello Aseras,
Do you happen to know the model number of the NEC?

[Kenom]

I just got done tearing into a Sony DW-D26A Bought the drive as-is on ebay and was not functioning for reading or writing so I figured what the hay! Lo-and-behold closed cans. Pretty good power.

So here it is.

1.Sony
2.DW-D26A
3. Closed diode
4 unknown output.

[Levitra]

Hi, my laser is

1. Benq
2. Dw1620
3. 5.6 mm with glass (closed)
4. Don´t know output power

I use it at 150 mA and Vd=2.59 volts (389 mW input power) with a collimator from a laser copier. So output power must be near 100mW.
None heat problem and very low divergence.

[Kenom]

another report of a good dvd rewritable drive

1. Memorex
2. MRX-525G
3. closed cans
4. output power unknown

[Kenom]

and another I tore into the other day.

1. HP
2. ZD8000 notebook drive.
3. Red was closed can IR open can
4. Unknown output power.

[Gazoo]

1. Benq
2. Dw1625
3. 5.6 mm with glass (closed)
4. Greater than 100mw

I am guessing on output power, but I think it's close when driven with greater than 200ma. Currently I am driving the diode with around 240ma. It will light a match with a light gray head as long as the focus is perfect. I am using a Meredith module with a glass lens. It does start to heat up if left on for longer than a minute. Anything less and it stays cool.

[Kenom]

1. LG
2. GSA-H42L
3. Closed can.
4. Output Unknown.

It must be noted that this particular model had a very large heatsink that the red diode is mounted into. It is very difficult to remove and takes lots of patience.

[Bernhard]

1. Sony
2. DRU-700A
3. Closed can for both IR and Red.
4. Unknown Output

[Bernhard]

1. Lite-On
2. LH-20A1P
3. Open can for both IR and Red
4. Not Known

[VaThInK]

1. Sony
2. DRU-800A
3. Open diode
4. 342mW peak @ 650mA with good heatsink

1. Pioneer
2. 112D
3. Open diode
4. 345mW peak @ 650mA with good heatsink

I assume most of the red diodes used in 18x DVD burners are the same. I've tried Samsung, LG and Lite-On 18x burners (forgot the model) as well with similar results to the above.

PS: Just keep in mind that these diodes get extremely hot real quick when being fed at 650mA without proper cooling (gets to 50C within 2 minutes with ambient room temp at 18C). So an active cooling such as fan assisted heatsink or peltier cooler is very recommended for longer duty cycle.

Cheers.

[Kenom]

those are some pretty impressive output power levels. Can you post pictures of what your open can's look like. I've got a few open cans that I've seen but for some reason I am thinking they are completely different that what others are getting. I will post a pic of mine!


Shot at 2007-07-03


Shot at 2007-07-03

I find it odd I keep finding diode's that are rectangular instead of circular. This particular diode is IR.

[VaThInK]

Here you go mate. From all of the DVD burners I have dissected above, I always ended up with this type of diodes. They look "prettier" than the closed one I reckon . Very sexy .

PS: This particular one have been through a lot as you can see from the scars on its body in the picture. However, this one is still putting out 342mW of red goodness without a hitch . I found them to be quite durable and I don't know why you are keep on breaking yours Aseras. Maybe you need to be more gentle in handling these beast .

Kenom: I've only come across with this type of diode once. It was the IR diode in a SCSI 12x Pioneer CD-ROM drive. Exactly like yours, the weird looking ones.



Shot at 2007-07-04

[Gazoo]

Hello VaThInK,

Hmmm they do look somewhat sexy. That's a lot of power coming out of that diode. I wonder if the diode has a tendency to stay cooler because it is open, not sealed like the ones most of us are familiar with. I definitely must try one of these. A quick search on e-bay revealed both of the drives you mentioned can be found for less than $40.00 including shipping. Maybe soon I can get one. The one I pulled from my Benq is still going strong.....

[Bimmerboy]

VaThInk - Cool, my first look inside a can! Wait... that didn't sound right.

Dammit, Jim... I'm a flashaholic, not a proctologist!

BTW... you're sure those diodes are putting out almost 350mW? I'd have thought even attempting it would be instant death for any 5.6mm package... even the 20X'ers.

[KrisP]

1. Pioneer
2. DVR111
3. Closed
4. Don't know

[Kenom]

WOW! 340mw! I would be freaking goin crazy. I donno if I can work with anyhting quite that powerful. I would have to learn a bit more before going so far as to cool that baby. So far I'm sure the main reason I've fried the one's I'm playing with are because of insufficient cooling. I'd kill it almost instantly trying to mess with that cause I don't have the means to cool it properly. You will have to show me a picture of what you mean by active cooling and how you accomplished it. I know what peltiers are and havn't got any but could.

Thanks much for the Picture. It is very sexy.

Most of my weird diodes have come from laptop drives. they must only make them in those. the first one was in a HP laptop dvd rw and the other was in a sony. BOTH IR. Now I need to devise a way to make it work as a laser. Odd shaped chamber with circular optics but rectangular mounting.

[Aseras]

That's the open can diodes I was saying were in the LG burners. all of them are way powerful but also very very fragile.

you touch the wire going to the diode and it dies.

[VaThInK]

Behold, is this freaky or what ? I just hit the 400mW mark on the dot ! And it was going steady down to 391mW. I rigged up this quick and dirty setup to proof to Bimmerboy that I did manage to get 345mW reading previously without peltier or active cooling but only using the laser diode housing from Aixiz on eBay. It turned out to be a bomb when I set the current to 700mA coupled with peltier cooler . By the way, thanks to SenKat for recommending LPM-1 to me. Just received it a few weeks back and now I can measure my findings. Such a great meter. Thanks again SenKat!

NOTE: If you decided to try to feed your LDs at around 600mA, please keep in mind that the duty cycle should be kept at around a minute or so maximum or you'll regret it later .

I've tried to find its maximum current in the past and based on the results that I get so far, I can safely conclude that this kind of diodes can withstand current from 750mA up to 800mA maximum while keeping it's temperature at around 30C. Pushing the current beyond 800mA then you're only asking for trouble, as they will only light up for hours, minutes, or even seconds regardless its temperature! This varies from LDs to LDs. I actually blew 2 of them when I pushed one to 950mA with its temperature reading at 4C and another one at 850mA. They worked for about an hour and then , they turned into weird looking LEDs .

And here's the picture that you've been waiting for .



Shot with Canon DIGITAL IXUS 60 at 2007-07-05

All in all, I reckon this is the best laser ever! 400mW red lasers at around $35 each, nothing beats its value. Nothing comes even close! Too bad it's red.

Kenom: What I meant by active cooling is by using a heatsink coupled with a fan to cools it down. CPU coolers is one example or you could rig one up from common parts that you can easily get from your local electronic shops. I guess it's best to use old CPU coolers such as from Pentium I, II, III or Athlon K7 CPUs. Newer CPU heasinks are harder to adapt but it's possible too if you're willing to do more work. Personally, I haven't made mine yet, but I have been thinking of doing so lately. Too bad I haven't got enough free time to turn this into reality thanks to my job. One day I will though, one day I will. Anyway, one way to achieve this by drilling a hole on the center of the heatsink (or wherever you see fit) and then flush the LD housing halfway into it and fix it in place by using thermal epoxy or anything that conduct heat and you're done.

PS: Sorry if the picture is too big. Let me know and I'll fix it.

Cheers.

[Kenom]

what is that pad sitting on top of the peltier?

I'm curious if that is all You have for active cooling I'm sure some kind of heatsink wrapped around the Aixiz module (it would have to be fairly large with a fan) would accomplish the same thing. Now I'm no expert and have never actually played with a peltier so donno how cold they get, but a good sized heatsink with air flowing over it should work.

[VaThInK]

Originally Posted by Kenom

what is that pad sitting on top of the peltier?

That huge block is a heatsink designed to be used for audio amplifier. It was not cooled down by a fan. That's why I use a big heatsink. As I said, I did that setup in 10 minutes just to prove my claim. So what I did was I took out my peltier cooler (it was already attached like that to the heatsink as you can see in the picture as I can't be bothered taking it apart when I finished my old project). Then I put a wet tissue in between the LD housing and the peltier to improve the heat transfer and that's about it.

Originally Posted by Kenom

I'm curious if that is all You have for active cooling I'm sure some kind of heatsink wrapped around the Aixiz module (it would have to be fairly large with a fan) would accomplish the same thing. Now I'm no expert and have never actually played with a peltier so donno how cold they get, but a good sized heatsink with air flowing over it should work.

Yep, you're right. As I said, a small Pentium III coolers (60mm x 60mm heatsink with a suitable fan) would do the job quite well. Remember though, I've never tried it, but I think it is sufficient. I did mine using peltier because it is easier for me. I already got it set up and ready to run and I don't have a heatsink built up ready for testing. I have heaps of them lying around in my storage though. Something like 30+ heatsink fan modules but I just don't have enough free time to do it .

Peltier can go as low as -20C without any load acting on the cold side, so it will freeze water no problem. When heat is applied to the cold side, it will drop significantly of course. The hot side is very hot, hence the huge heatsink. This particular ones have a cooling/heating power of 240W.

Hope I have answered your questions.

PS: When this laser is not collimated (I took out the collimating lens), I can feel the heat when I shone it to my hand. This is when the beam diameter measured at around 5cm! I am so amazed! Now this is dangerous stuff alright. Please, anyone that are going to attempt this, be very very very careful with it. This thing can melt a thick plastic. Always consider safety first. Better safe than sorry.

Cheers.

[Kenom]

ahhhh it was the wet tissue that I was referring to. I was like huh? he's got a cloth there. wtf? LOL considering that your peltier is getting that cold I am not quite sure that a heatsink and a fan will be sufficient then. You physically putting something that is very cold right onto the module and I don't think that a simple heatsink and fan could accomplish this. You would have to buy one of those water cooled assemblies. (wish I knew where to get those! (suggestions anyone))

Here is a heatsink idea I was looking at but instead of having just fins protruding from one area have it circular with a solid base that is hollow for the module.
http://www.zalman.co.kr/usa/product/...p?idx=33&idm=1

[Gazoo]

I have been looking into this. Peltier's are fairly inexpensive. I have thought about mounting one to a cpu fan and head sink arrangement using arctic thermal paste. But I am not sure how I would mount the module to the peltier.

Also there is the problem of condensation that develops but I don't know how bad it would be since we know we do not want to run it for long duty cycles.
This could turn into an interesting project. I saw some small peltiers on e-bay that would be good. I know they draw a lot of power so portability might be a problem unless using a lead acid battery. Perhaps all of this could be installed in one of those big lead acid flashlights. One would have to cut slots or holes for ventilating, but I think it could be done.

I have a peltier cooler. It will run for about an hour on a 7 amp 12 volt battery, just to give an idea of the power requirements.

[Kenom]

I had some heatsinks made up to fit inside my Mini Dorcy mod so that it would wick the heat from the Aixiz module to the head of the Dorcy and act as a heatsink.
Now I'm working on getting something like this but bigger with fins that go from the bottom of the spacer to the top. Maybe I can just epoxy some fins onto the spacers!



By kenkassdy at 2007-07-05



You can also check out the heatsinks that were made by Tallaxo on LPF here
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/fo...num=1181994764

He really did a bang up job on those heatsinks.