Thanks, I understand now. That would be a lot of messing about for me unless it comes on at max. by default. I'll look for a suitable clicky.
P60 sized led drop-ins (part 2)
- Thread starter Fizz753
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Thanks, I understand now. That would be a lot of messing about for me unless it comes on at max. by default. I'll look for a suitable clicky.
I hope it's ok to ask a noobie question here. I'm not really sure what search words to use for my query. I'm thinking of getting a drop-in, and I have a host which I believe it will fit. My question is: the host torch has a twist on-off tailcap with a button for momentary on. With a multi mode drop-in, will the different modes be useable with this kind of switch? (It wouldn't actually be a problem if I were stuck with full brightness). Cheers.
Alternatley, if there is a thread explaining this, please link me up.
You may want to check with the drop-in manufacturer before you buy. For the Dereelight multi-mode with a twisty tailcap, you can do one of two things:
(1) from on, loosen the tailcap slightly and then tighten within 1 second to change modes
(2) push the momentary switch to change modes then tighten the tailcap for constant on
That said, I think the multi-mode drop-ins would work better with clicky tailcaps.
Cheers :thumbsup: I think what I'm going to do is get the drop in first and see how it works. If I'm not happy I'll then look into getting a clicky. There's no rush with it, it's just a little beginner project... which will probably lead to something more ambitous.
Well my 0-100% Dealextreme is FINALLY dimming.
After 7 days with SLIGHTLY used primary cells I noticed that this morning I could still get a pretty ood ramp up of the light but this evening the low is about 1/2 of what it was and the highest it can go is about the brightness of a 1/2 watt led.
Will run it a little longer and see when it stops lighting back up.
This will definately be my camping/travel light (alond with my NDI) and a backup if I ever go caving. I might buy another to go in my bug out bag instead of the streamlight TL1 LED that is in there now.
wwglen
After 7 days with SLIGHTLY used primary cells I noticed that this morning I could still get a pretty ood ramp up of the light but this evening the low is about 1/2 of what it was and the highest it can go is about the brightness of a 1/2 watt led.
Will run it a little longer and see when it stops lighting back up.
This will definately be my camping/travel light (alond with my NDI) and a backup if I ever go caving. I might buy another to go in my bug out bag instead of the streamlight TL1 LED that is in there now.
wwglen
hellogreen
Banned
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2008
- Messages
- 1
Measuring magnification
How to Measure magnification
How can I see how strong a magnifying glass is?
I bought this magnifying glass http://www.liangdianup.com/inventory/189901.htm and I want
to know how to test it to see how strong it is. I hear a lot of people talk about
magnifying and how strong the magnification is, but I would like to know the true
magnification of my magnifying glass. I have a few of them and some seem stronger then
others. How can I rate these? How can I pin a correct number on mine? How do the companies
that make these come up with these numbers.
How to Measure magnification
How can I see how strong a magnifying glass is?
I bought this magnifying glass http://www.liangdianup.com/inventory/189901.htm and I want
to know how to test it to see how strong it is. I hear a lot of people talk about
magnifying and how strong the magnification is, but I would like to know the true
magnification of my magnifying glass. I have a few of them and some seem stronger then
others. How can I rate these? How can I pin a correct number on mine? How do the companies
that make these come up with these numbers.
CampingLED
Enlightened
Try these 2 links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnifying_lens
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convex_lens#Types_of_simple_lenses
Not the right forum for this question though.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnifying_lens
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convex_lens#Types_of_simple_lenses
Not the right forum for this question though.
Well I got one xtra day with my 0-100 dealextreme dropin.
8 days before it went out all the way. 7 days before it wouldn't ramp up to full brightness.
I just checked the battery current draw for new primary cr123 batteries (actually old but unused).
I got 10 mA on low and 800mA on high.
Since the brightness on low is equlivant to 1-2 mA of current to the emitter there is HUGE losses in the driver circuit. Even so I like the long run time and low-low. It will be my HOTEL and emergency light on trips (Along with my NDI).
wwglen
8 days before it went out all the way. 7 days before it wouldn't ramp up to full brightness.
I just checked the battery current draw for new primary cr123 batteries (actually old but unused).
I got 10 mA on low and 800mA on high.
Since the brightness on low is equlivant to 1-2 mA of current to the emitter there is HUGE losses in the driver circuit. Even so I like the long run time and low-low. It will be my HOTEL and emergency light on trips (Along with my NDI).
wwglen
kramer5150
Flashaholic
Just got my DX:17593 today. Haven't had it long enough to really test it. The UI is very easy to use. Its ONLY a single variable mode 1-100%. There is no low/med/high modes on mine. This is a GOOD thing in my book. After using 14442, I dont think I like mode flipping. Even with a Surefire momentary switch 14442 is a little cumbersome to use. This one has last mode memory too, so it behaves more like a single mode once you set the brightness to taste.
One things for sure the lowest mode is REALLY low. My 6 Lumen Gerber tempo TOTALLY blows it out of the water. To further put it into perspective, my mag solitaire blows it away too LOL. So those who like .25-1 Lumen night vision preserving light(like me) will really appreciate this one.
I don't find the PWM flicker on low to be all that offensive. It is there and can be seen when illuminating fast moving objects (ceiling fans, running water faucet..etc), but with casual use just walking around I don't find it any worse than DX14442.
One thing I DO notice is the color tint variation with brightness. I think this is to be expected to some degree with ANY severely under-driven CREE emitter. Mine turns very yellow in color (with a slight green) at the lowest mode. FWIW, my DX14442 color tint does not vary all THAT much, but then again its lowest mode is still around 40 Lumens, and only runs for ~3.5 hours at that mode. I guess its not a terrible thing, since I find yellow tint lights to be much easier on the eyes with night adapted vision. Once I ramp up from that low-low point it starts to whiten considerably.
Color tint on high is MUCH more white than the low-low modes. Its not quite as pale-white as my DX14442, but not quite as yellow as my DX11836... somewhere in between, leaning closer to the DX14442. So the Cree color tint lottery is in full effect with all these DX R2 modules.
For some whacko reason my 17593 has VERY faint cree-rings compared to any of my other modules. I took extra time to adjust the modules to make sure the emitters are adjusted to the same focal point, yet the difference is very noticeable.... a pleasant difference. I think it might be a difference in the reflector OP surface.
With my DMM I measure 620 mAh draw on the highest setting, with freshly charged RCR123 cells.
DX originally sent me the wrong item. I found the RMA procedure easy and painless, although shipping from China to the US took about 8 days.
I'll post a detailed review after I have had a chance to use it more. I am using a Surefire M2 as a host.:thumbsup:
One things for sure the lowest mode is REALLY low. My 6 Lumen Gerber tempo TOTALLY blows it out of the water. To further put it into perspective, my mag solitaire blows it away too LOL. So those who like .25-1 Lumen night vision preserving light(like me) will really appreciate this one.
I don't find the PWM flicker on low to be all that offensive. It is there and can be seen when illuminating fast moving objects (ceiling fans, running water faucet..etc), but with casual use just walking around I don't find it any worse than DX14442.
One thing I DO notice is the color tint variation with brightness. I think this is to be expected to some degree with ANY severely under-driven CREE emitter. Mine turns very yellow in color (with a slight green) at the lowest mode. FWIW, my DX14442 color tint does not vary all THAT much, but then again its lowest mode is still around 40 Lumens, and only runs for ~3.5 hours at that mode. I guess its not a terrible thing, since I find yellow tint lights to be much easier on the eyes with night adapted vision. Once I ramp up from that low-low point it starts to whiten considerably.
Color tint on high is MUCH more white than the low-low modes. Its not quite as pale-white as my DX14442, but not quite as yellow as my DX11836... somewhere in between, leaning closer to the DX14442. So the Cree color tint lottery is in full effect with all these DX R2 modules.
For some whacko reason my 17593 has VERY faint cree-rings compared to any of my other modules. I took extra time to adjust the modules to make sure the emitters are adjusted to the same focal point, yet the difference is very noticeable.... a pleasant difference. I think it might be a difference in the reflector OP surface.
With my DMM I measure 620 mAh draw on the highest setting, with freshly charged RCR123 cells.
DX originally sent me the wrong item. I found the RMA procedure easy and painless, although shipping from China to the US took about 8 days.
I'll post a detailed review after I have had a chance to use it more. I am using a Surefire M2 as a host.:thumbsup:
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On LOW I doint have a problem with the PWM but from about 15% up to about 85% it is really bad to me.
I generally run it at LOW and 25% as they are good enough for most of my uses and HIGH is there when I need it.
wwglen
phantom23
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2007
- Messages
- 2,044
There is first P60 MC-E module. Inside sku.18857 from DX.
This sku 16240 is seriously as bright as my Aurora P7, I must have gotten a very efficient R2. I can't explain it, with two RCR123's it is pulling .65 amps.
I just ordered sku.18857 to compare. I think these *fire surefire knock-offs are the best deal going.
I just ordered sku.18857 to compare. I think these *fire surefire knock-offs are the best deal going.
outersquare
Enlightened
There is first P60 MC-E module. Inside sku.18857 from DX.
i was gonna buy one but you have to buy the whole light?
outersquare
Enlightened
well can you use CR123 in that light?
kramer5150
Flashaholic
I for one wouldn't recommend it.... Its risky discharging 16340 sized cells at that high of a rate.
Its still a steal, with the cost of MCE LED's the host is practically free. I ordered one before they sell out.
PlayboyJoeShmoe
Flashaholic
Sorta wish I could too.
But the CFO is spending a LOT on Christmas and I don't even see getting a Zebralight H50 before sometime in '09.
But the CFO is spending a LOT on Christmas and I don't even see getting a Zebralight H50 before sometime in '09.
ordered one too. Although the Lumen figures seem wrong. 100lm @ 1A is too little
Nite
Enlightened
whats the max and min Voltages on P60Led plz?
what happens to a mallkoff 60F if you use 3x lion cells?
what happens to a mallkoff 60F if you use 3x lion cells?
FLT MEDIC
Newly Enlightened
Seems the single mode and 5 mode 250 Lumen R2 drop-ins from DX have the same brightness and white color at high setting. Either R2 drop-in beats my stock 80 Lumen Gladius hands down.
Bought the optional smooth reflector but it didn't change the spot size or range/throw distance of both R2 drop-ins.
Bought the optional smooth reflector but it didn't change the spot size or range/throw distance of both R2 drop-ins.
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