Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

[blackFFM]

Does the light use a XM-L T6 or U2?

 

[selfbuilt]

Only tiny thing I might change would be UI timing and moonlight as a memory mode. The awesome hold for moonlight UI makes me like the UI, way more than most UIs.(im an anti "twisty+btn" for mode changes guy) but I'd prefer that moonlight wasn't remembered as one of the memory modes. ie if on high last, hold to moonlight, press off, press on goes back to moonlight (but i'd prefer it be high/memory).

It's a good point - given that Moonlight can always be accessed from off, there is no advantage to having it memorized (i.e., you would be better having the non-moonlight mode memorized).

I recall wishing the same thing on some of the early Nitecore lights (e.g. D10/EX10 series and variants). I gather this is more complicated to do in the circuit when "shortcuts" are used (and the press-hold-from-off here is kind of like a shortcut). The simplest thing for a memory mode is to simply remember the last state, no matter how you got there.

But it can definitely be done differently, with a bit more work in the circuit design. This was something Liteflux was quite good at, back in the day they were still producing lights. It's one of the reasons why I switched from the D10 to the LF3XT as my EDC for a good while. Hopefully Olight gives it some though.

Does the light use a XM-L T6 or U2?

I don't believe Olight specifies the tint bin. At least, it wasn't on any of the documentation I saw when I wrote up the review.

 

[Oztorchfreak]

The Olight S10 Beam Tint is "YELLOWY" (I don't like it)..

It's a good point - given that Moonlight can always be accessed from off, there is no advantage to having it memorized (i.e., you would be better having the non-moonlight mode memorized).

I recall wishing the same thing on some of the early Nitecore lights (e.g. D10/EX10 series and variants). I gather this is more complicated to do in the circuit when "shortcuts" are used (and the press-hold-from-off here is kind of like a shortcut). The simplest thing for a memory mode is to simply remember the last state, no matter how you got there.

But it can definitely be done differently, with a bit more work in the circuit design. This was something Liteflux was quite good at, back in the day they were still producing lights. It's one of the reasons why I switched from the D10 to the LF3XT as my EDC for a good while. Hopefully Olight gives it some though.


I don't believe Olight specifies the tint bin. At least, it wasn't on any of the documentation I saw when I wrote up the review.

The tint on my S10 and other S10 owners that I have seen is on the "YELLOWY" side(more neutral as typical in some other Olight products) which I think should have been be printed in the specs for this light as I would have liked the option of a "COOL WHITE" version of my S10 than what I have now.

A lot of light manufacturers offer a "COOL WHITE" or "NEUTRAL" as options as many users like to have these days.

This would keep more users happy and probably Olight would have sold more S10 lights if the word gets around that a lot of buyers do not like the beam tint just as I don't like it.




CHEERS

 

[MattSPL]

Is it safe to run it on max non-stop? Putting it on my bike inside a Velcro strap? Does it have an auto off @ certain temp? Night time still hot in AZ. Or should it just never really overheat?

I have yet to get it too hot to touch so I figured its ok, but just wanted to ask the experts.

Actual use this S10 will be on strobe with diffuser, but if my other bike light died, i'd like to not worry about this guy on max nonstop.

EDIT:
Awesome light BTW!! great EDC.
Only tiny thing I might change would be UI timing and moonlight as a memory mode. The awesome hold for moonlight UI makes me like the UI, way more than most UIs.(im an anti "twisty+btn" for mode changes guy) but I'd prefer that moonlight wasn't remembered as one of the memory modes. ie if on high last, hold to moonlight, press off, press on goes back to moonlight (but i'd prefer it be high/memory). wish moonlight always hold to activate. also maybe shorten the time it takes between level changes closer to what Zerbalight has. I'm waiting just a tad bit too long. but I'm just being too picky, others probably like moonlight as memory, and mode changing speed (its not too slow, i'm just not patient) Great light! UI is great!

I also use my S10 as a bike light using a Velcro handle bar mount, although I usually keep mine on medium most of the time.

I have done runtime tests on high for the full duration of different cells. The longest was 1hr and 11 minutes.
Due to the light stepping down to 60% after 5 minutes, heat doesn't become a problem.

 

[Oztorchfreak]

I also use my S10 as a bike light using a Velcro handle bar mount, although I usually keep mine on medium most of the time.

I have done runtime tests on high for the full duration of different cells. The longest was 1hr and 11 minutes.
Due to the light stepping down to 60% after 5 minutes, heat doesn't become a problem.

I did not know that my S10 had a "stepdown" at all.

Does it drop down suddenly or ramp down to the LOWER level of 60%?

I just thought that running at 320 lumens it would be ok with that.

Is that fact documented in any review, spec or wherever you noticed it?

I will have to check mine now that you have got me thinking about it.

I didn't like the beam tint being rather "YELLOWY" and not having a proper "COOL WHITE" optional as my main gripe, but now I think you have just added another one to my "LIST".





CHEERS

 

[MattSPL]

I did not know that my S10 had a "stepdown" at all.

I just thought that running at 320 lumens it would be ok with that.

I will have to check mine now that you have got me thinking about it.

I ddn't like the beam tint being rather "YELLOWY" and not having a proper "COOL WHITE" optional as my main gripe, but now I think you have just added another one to my "LIST".







CHEERS

It gradually steps down over the space of a few minutes, after about 5 minutes on high, so you don't notice it happening.
If you switch it off then on again, it will return to 100% high mode.
I guess Olight did this to stop the light getting hot, and to maintain a good runtime on high.

The tint is a bit yellow, but i like it as colours look good when using it outside at night.
I got my S10-Ti the other day, and it uses a neutral emitter. See the pic below. S10 on the left, S10-Ti on the right.
The normal S10 looks like a very cool white in comparison.

Cheers
Matt

 

[Oztorchfreak]

It gradually steps down over the space of a few minutes, after about 5 minutes on high, so you don't notice it happening.
If you switch it off then on again, it will return to 100% high mode.
I guess Olight did this to stop the light getting hot, and to maintain a good runtime on high.

The tint is a bit yellow, but i like it as colours look good when using it outside at night.
I got my S10-Ti the other day, and it uses a neutral emitter. See the pic below. S10 on the left, S10-Ti on the right.
The normal S10 looks like a very cool white in comparison.

Cheers
Matt

Hi Matt.



Thanks for that info on the S10 as it was news to me!

I never saw that fact documented anywhere and especially not by Olight.

Is it documented anywhere or did you just discover that fact "OUT OF THE BLUE" during your runtime test?

I bought the "Beaded Blasted" Titanium S10 recently not realising that it was only available with a Neutral beam tint.

When I received it I was shocked by the "PINKY" beam tint as I already did not like the "YELLOWY" look of the original beam tint.

I mainly do not like a very Neutral High CRI tint except on some of my lights.

I have never seen that "PINKY" tint ever before and do not want one in my collection.

I returned the light and got a refund.




CHEERS

 

[MattSPL]

Hi Oztorchfreak

Selfbuilt mentioned the step down in his first post of this review thread

The S10 has a somewhat distinctive step-down pattern on Hi: after 5 mins, the light steps down to a slightly lower level – but gradually, over a period of two minutes. This differs from most lights that have an abrupt step. As a result, you are not likely to be able to perceive the gradual dimming here.

Would you consider modding your S10, or an S10-Ti with a cool white emitter? I've heard its a simple swap. You could get a new XM-L U3 put into one of them
I haven't used my S10-Ti, other than to take a couple of pics because its an xmas present i bought from my girlfriend to me, just to make sure i got one

Cheers
Matt

 

[Oztorchfreak]

Hi Oztorchfreak

Selfbuilt mentioned the step down in his first post of this review thread


Would you consider modding your S10, or an S10-Ti with a cool white emitter? I've heard its a simple swap. You could get a new XM-L U3 put into one of them
I haven't used my S10-Ti, other than to take a couple of pics because its an xmas present i bought from my girlfriend to me, just to make sure i got one

Cheers
Matt

How did I miss that one?

It went clean right out of my head!

Thanks again for your help on the S10.




CHEERS

 

[MattSPL]

No problem :thumbsup:
Let me know if you get tempted to do an emitter swap in the S10. I'd be interested to see how you get on I'll wait to get some use on my S10-Ti, and if i decide to swap the emitter(if i can get the courage to open it), i'll post pics.

Cheers
Matt

 

[CrazyHighVoltage]

an emiter swap is realy easy on this light if u can solder and reflow a led.

step 1: get a pair pf needle nose pliers to unsrew the bezel. (wich is prety loose)
step 2: take a battery and push it in the battery tube till the lens pops out.
step 3: push the reflector back in with the battery to get the red o ring out
step 4: push out the "drop in" using the same methode as step 2.
step 5: unscrew the reflector and take out the anoying piece of black plastic (wich centers the led and is a pain to get back in) and unsolder the 2 wires from the pcb and take the pcb out.

hope this helps good luck

CrazyHighVoltage

 

[MattSPL]

an emiter swap is realy easy on this light if u can solder and reflow a led.

step 1: get a pair pf needle nose pliers to unsrew the bezel. (wich is prety loose)
step 2: take a battery and push it in the battery tube till the lens pops out.
step 3: push the reflector back in with the battery to get the red o ring out
step 4: push out the "drop in" using the same methode as step 2.
step 5: unscrew the reflector and take out the anoying piece of black plastic (wich centers the led and is a pain to get back in) and unsolder the 2 wires from the pcb and take the pcb out.

hope this helps good luck

CrazyHighVoltage

Thanks for that :twothumbs

What size pcb is the led on?
I'm thinking a U3 XM-L might be nice in the S10

Cheers
Matt

 

[naiter]

Thanks for the great replies.
Do we know if the step down still happens on strobe? I haven't been able to get it to overheat yet but its not summer.

 

[CrazyHighVoltage]

hi

the pcb isnt entirely round it has 2 flat sides wich is 13 mm.
and if i want to measure the other side i have to remove the anoying piece of plastic(wich centers the led)
but i think u should just swap the led not the pcb just wat i did

CrazyHighVoltage

 

[MattSPL]

hi

the pcb isnt entirely round it has 2 flat sides wich is 13 mm.
and if i want to measure the other side i have to remove the anoying piece of plastic(wich centers the led)
but i think u should just swap the led not the pcb just wat i did

CrazyHighVoltage

Ok, thanks for your help
I might look into doing a swap.

Cheers
Matt

 

[CrazyHighVoltage]

matt no problem im glad i could help u
good luck and dont make it go

CrazyHighVoltage

 

[MattSPL]

matt no problem im glad i could help u
good luck and dont make it go

CrazyHighVoltage

ill do my best

 

[djdawg]

I just recieved a Baton and it came with two o-rings in the box. One is for the threads I know if I ever wear one out.
But theres also one small , short fat little o-ring in the box too....... what is this one for ????
Thanks dj

 

[loquutis79]

if you have the version where you can remove the magnet then this o ring is used in place of the magnet to prevent rattle.
i just recieved mine also after a overly long shipping from Battery Junction. ! I love it. what a great tiny light

 

[selfbuilt]

But theres also one small , short fat little o-ring in the box too....... what is this one for ????
Thanks dj

if you have the version where you can remove the magnet then this o ring is used in place of the magnet to prevent rattle.

That's right, the small thick o-ring is a replacement for the magnet in the tailcap, should you choose to remove it. See my magnet swapping video below: