Eagletac G25C2 (XM-L, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS+

[selfbuilt]

So you dont believe I will have any cutoff issues due to high discharge rates?

No, the discharge rate of this light is not a problem for any standard ICR Li ion. The only concern is size and fit, and it sounds like you will be fine.

 

[Eagle 1]

hey CPF!

I bought this light (Eagletac G25C2 Mark 2) advertised at 1000 lumens from a retailer, and frankly, im having a hard time with the light and figured id come here for some advice. the light works fine in turbo (in reg and tactical settings), but my issue is in reg mode, the light will turn off and back on erratically. nothing i have tried, researched, or read has any advice whatsoever. i emailed Eagletac and they told me to send it to HONG KONG!! after spending150 on the light and bundle, it seems ridiculous to spend another 30 just to ship a 1lb package from the US to Hong Kong. i was wondering if anyone had any advice. ive tried everything in the manual, learned all the modes and submodes, and i can assure u its not a simplistic mistake. if i change (or start on) a lesser output than turbo, after 3 seconds the light will shut off for a sec, then turn back on. after that it stays on about 20 seconds, and repeats. every 20 seconds. again, really not sure what to do, any advice would help alot! thanks

 

[selfbuilt]

ive tried everything in the manual, learned all the modes and submodes, and i can assure u its not a simplistic mistake. if i change (or start on) a lesser output than turbo, after 3 seconds the light will shut off for a sec, then turn back on. after that it stays on about 20 seconds, and repeats. every 20 seconds. again, really not sure what to do, any advice would help alot! thanks

What type of battery are you using? Have you tried multiple types, included different brands of 18650 and primary CR123A?

Since you are only experiencing issues in the head-loosened state, I'm wondering if it isn't some sort of contact issue with the battery you are using (i.e., not making proper contact with the head).

Oh, and :welcome: as I see this is your first post.

 

[Badbeams3]

"There is an "energy saving feature" (on by default) when the light reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds in Turbo. To toggle this feature off/on, loosen the head to the fourth level and the click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

"There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch".

20X...20 TIMES! Are you kidding me? ...1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8...9...10...11...12....13.......14..........15..............16...................17...................18..........dam cramps.............19......I can do this...........................................20. "SORRY. YOU TOOK TO LONG...PLEASE TRY AGAIN"

 

[rjking]

hey CPF!

I bought this light (Eagletac G25C2 Mark 2) ,,, it stays on about 20 seconds, and repeats. every 20 seconds. again, really not sure what to do, any advice would help alot! thanks

Seems to me that this is in a slow beacon mode. Have you tried toggling the modes?

 

[sidecross]

I would also check the threaded ring above the clip; this can easily loosen and cause problems.

I would also agree with rjking that you may be in the slow beacon mode.

 

[Up All Night]

Eagle 1,
If you've exhausted all recommendations with zero results you should contact your retailer for an exchange. If these on/off cycles are of a constant elapsed time, I doubt you have a contact issue. Slow beacon? Maybe, but it sounds like you have a good command on how to program the light. I've just run mine(in regular mode) and regardless of what level I start in it exhibits none of the behaviour you describe. If this issue was present "out of the box" your retailer should be willing to exchange it.......hopefully! I certainly wouldn't pay to ship it to China, not to mention the wait involved.

 

[Cato]

Stupid question- how do I run it with two CR123 without rattle? Is there a CR123 holding device included?

 

[selfbuilt]

Stupid question- how do I run it with two CR123 without rattle? Is there a CR123 holding device included?

Yes there is, at least on the sample I purchased.

EDIT: to clarify, mine was bought as part of the kit with the diffuser cover and color filters.

 

[sidecross]

Yes there is, at least on the sample I purchased.

Eagletac sells a cardridge for two CR123 (EagleTac CR123 Battery Magazine [ET/123/Mag])

"The EagleTac CR123A Battery Magazine is made of durable polycarbonate material and allows quick loading of batteries in the field and helps to organize your batteries. Compatible with all CR123A primary batteries and fits rechargeable RCR123 as well. *Batteries not included!"

 

[Up All Night]

My Mark II version did not come with a cr123 magazine, nor have I seen it listed as an included accessory in any product description. It is standard with the D25LC2, the XP-G2 and XM-L U2 versions I have both came with.

 

[sidecross]

My Mark II version did not come with a cr123 magazine, nor have I seen it listed as an included accessory in any product description. It is standard with the D25LC2, the XP-G2 and XM-L U2 versions I have both came with.

You are right it only comes with D25LC2, but I ordered 10 of these magazines from Eagletac.

 

[selfbuilt]

My Mark II version did not come with a cr123 magazine, nor have I seen it listed as an included accessory in any product description. It is standard with the D25LC2, the XP-G2 and XM-L U2 versions I have both came with.

Hmmm, my Mark I was bought as part of the kit with the diffuser cover/filters and body tube extenders ... the plastic anti-rattle insert may not have been included with the standard base model. :shrug:

 

[sidecross]

Hmmm, my Mark I was bought as part of the kit with the diffuser cover/filters and body tube extenders ... the plastic anti-rattle insert may not have been included with the standard base model. :shrug:

I have bought 2 G25C2 with the accesory kits and 1 G25C2 Markll and none came with 123 x2 insert.

I did buy from Eagletac 10 of these inserts and they make for quick interchange of 123 batteries in the field. :thumbsup:

 

[selfbuilt]

I have bought 2 G25C2 with the accesory kits and 1 G25C2 Markll and none came with 123 x2 insert.

Mine didn't come with the full 2xCR123 insert either, but a smaller plastic tube that was presumably for rattle prevention. I just checked the manual, and this is confirmed - but it is meant to be used when the 3x or 4x battery tube extender is in place. For regular 2xCR123A usage, you can buy the proper full-sized insert separately, as you observed. Olight also sells a similar one. These typically work in most lights wide enough for 18650 cells.

 

[bluemax_1]

Another great review. I have some questions though.

1) Are there any changes in the interface between mk1 and mk2?
2) I see that there's a way to program the light to trigger the strobe from any brightness with a double click of the tailswitch, which is great. On the new TX25C2, you can trigger the strobe OR go straight to Turbo from any brightness with the button. With the G25C2-mk2, is there a way to go straight to Turbo from Low/Med, one-handed when holding the mk2 with my thumb on the tailswitch?

I like the design and features of the G25C2-mkII, especially with the upcoming XM-L2, 21,800 lux, flip up diffuser etc. but I need to be able to immediately trigger Turbo (and strobe, depending) from Low or Med one-handed (the light must be one-hand capable without requiring switching grip positions to turn it on and a different position to change brightness levels and/or trigger the tactical strobe).

If the TX25C2 had similar throw and a flip up diffuser like the G25C2-mkII, I'd possibly get that.



Max

 

[selfbuilt]

1) Are there any changes in the interface between mk1 and mk2?
2) I see that there's a way to program the light to trigger the strobe from any brightness with a double click of the tailswitch, which is great. On the new TX25C2, you can trigger the strobe OR go straight to Turbo from any brightness with the button. With the G25C2-mk2, is there a way to go straight to Turbo from Low/Med, one-handed when holding the mk2 with my thumb on the tailswitch?

Very little has changed in the interface between the MK I and MK II. Mainly, there are a few more auxillary modes now.

In answer to your second question - no. With tailcap strobe enabled, you can jump to strobe from any head-set level by simply flashling the tailcap from On. But there is no way to jump to Turbo without tightening the head. This is the limitation of the use of a physical clicky switch interface - it can only be programmed to do one thing. The TX25C2 has the extra flexibility that an electronic switch provides.

My review of the G25C2-II with XM-L2 should up within a week.

 

[bluemax_1]

Very little has changed in the interface between the MK I and MK II. Mainly, there are a few more auxillary modes now.

In answer to your second question - no. With tailcap strobe enabled, you can jump to strobe from any head-set level by simply flashling the tailcap from On. But there is no way to jump to Turbo without tightening the head. This is the limitation of the use of a physical clicky switch interface - it can only be programmed to do one thing. The TX25C2 has the extra flexibility that an electronic switch provides.

My review of the G25C2-II with XM-L2 should up within a week.

Ah, thanks again for the info. Can't wait to see the XM-L2 results.

BTW, one last question about the interface: I know this light is significantly bigger than a Quark QPA, but in the photos of you holding it, it appears that you might be able to hold the head with your pinky while reaching the tailswitch with your thumb. This is how I trigger Turbo/strobe on my QPA-G2 one-handed, by holding the head with my pinky and turning the body with my thumb and index finger (and I can then press the tailswitch for strobe if needed).

Is it possible to do this with the G25C2? Or is the head twist for brightness selection too stiff to easily do that? (Or maybe the head is too far to reach, although it appears that you can reach the rear part of that long head with your pinky). With some lights (and this appears to be one) it can help if you position your hand so the tips of your ring and middle fingers are on the pocket clip, allowing you to turn the body by shoving on the pocket clip with those fingers while holding the head with your pinky.


Max

 

[selfbuilt]

BTW, one last question about the interface: I know this light is significantly bigger than a Quark QPA, but in the photos of you holding it, it appears that you might be able to hold the head with your pinky while reaching the tailswitch with your thumb. This is how I trigger Turbo/strobe on my QPA-G2 one-handed, by holding the head with my pinky and turning the body with my thumb and index finger (and I can then press the tailswitch for strobe if needed).

I just tried and was unsuccessful ... perhaps you need stronger (or longer) pinky fingers than I have, but I couldn't overcome the resistance. I think the problem is the size of the head is such as you don't have enough leverage with your pinky.

 

[shelm]

My review of the G25C2-II with XM-L2 should up within a week.

sb will you update this thread or create a new review thread?
looking forward!!