Prometheus Lights ....
- Thread starter AZPops
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Barefootone
Enlightened
Amen to that brother, but once your infected especially by Prometheus your doomed. HA ;-) ....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
It is great to hear how pleased you are with your new light. Would you mind commenting about the thread quality in your ready made Alpha? Thanks very much.
Barefootone
Enlightened
Hi bluebonnet,
I thought I would volunteer some pictures of Alpha ICE v3 with some shots of the threads. I'm a fan of high precision threads and Jason spares no expense when he machines the threads on his lights. To get a little technical here is a quote from Jason about his thread making.
I must say the threads are extremely tight in meshing and absolutely no slop. When you screw the head on and off it feels like a micrometer thimble.
UTS Class III Thread Fit.
"I won't bore you with all the details, but this is the highest precision Unified Thread Standard (UTS) class and normally reserved for certain military and instrumentation applications. The increased thread contact area enhances electrical and thermal conductivity. This means the thread slop is exceedingly low. I'm not aware of anyone in the flashlight industry that uses a Class III thread fit... because it's insane... and very difficult to make sure subsequent batches of parts actually fit together. Haven't had to throw any out yet though...close, but not quite."
I thought I would volunteer some pictures of Alpha ICE v3 with some shots of the threads. I'm a fan of high precision threads and Jason spares no expense when he machines the threads on his lights. To get a little technical here is a quote from Jason about his thread making.
I must say the threads are extremely tight in meshing and absolutely no slop. When you screw the head on and off it feels like a micrometer thimble.
UTS Class III Thread Fit.
"I won't bore you with all the details, but this is the highest precision Unified Thread Standard (UTS) class and normally reserved for certain military and instrumentation applications. The increased thread contact area enhances electrical and thermal conductivity. This means the thread slop is exceedingly low. I'm not aware of anyone in the flashlight industry that uses a Class III thread fit... because it's insane... and very difficult to make sure subsequent batches of parts actually fit together. Haven't had to throw any out yet though...close, but not quite."
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bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
Very handsome looking Alpha Ice version 3. Most impressive. Thank you for taking the time to post your photos. I wonder how the class II threads in the ready made compare to your class III?
Barefootone
Enlightened
I really don't know. I will try to cypher out the difference and post if I can assertain the specs. Thank you for the compliment my ICE it is one of my favorites. My other favorite is my original Haiku.
Barefootone
Enlightened
This may help you with the thread classes.
Classes of Thread
(Tech Tip #5)
Can you explain 'Thread Class'?
Classes of thread fit is one of three factors one must consider when deciding what type of thread is best for a given fastener application. The other 2 are thread form and thread series. We will discuss thread form and thread series in future Tech Tips.
Thread fit is a measure of looseness or tightness of mating threads. For unified inch threads, there are 3 thread classes for external threads- 1A, 2A and 3A - and three for internal threads - 1B, 2B and 3B. All of these are "clearance fits" which indicates that they assemble without interference.
As a general guideline, the higher the class number, the tighter the fit. For example, an assembly which mates class 1A and 1B threads will have a looser fit than an assembly having class 3A and 3B threads.
Classes 1A and 1B are infrequently used, but they do have their applications. They are ideally suited when quick assembly and disassembly are a key consideration in a design. Classes 2A and 2B are the most common thread classes in use, offering a balance of ease of manufacture, cost and performance. Classes 3A and 3B are best suited where close tolerances, safety and strength are required, and thus are frequently specified for socket cap and socket set screws.
It is not necessarily true that tighter thread tolerances and closer fit insure a better quality assembly and performance. Our engineers can assist you in developing the optimal combination of features for your design application. If you would like more information on this or other technical application questions, email us at [email protected] and we'll be happy to help you
Classes of Thread
(Tech Tip #5)
Can you explain 'Thread Class'?
Classes of thread fit is one of three factors one must consider when deciding what type of thread is best for a given fastener application. The other 2 are thread form and thread series. We will discuss thread form and thread series in future Tech Tips.
Thread fit is a measure of looseness or tightness of mating threads. For unified inch threads, there are 3 thread classes for external threads- 1A, 2A and 3A - and three for internal threads - 1B, 2B and 3B. All of these are "clearance fits" which indicates that they assemble without interference.
As a general guideline, the higher the class number, the tighter the fit. For example, an assembly which mates class 1A and 1B threads will have a looser fit than an assembly having class 3A and 3B threads.
Classes 1A and 1B are infrequently used, but they do have their applications. They are ideally suited when quick assembly and disassembly are a key consideration in a design. Classes 2A and 2B are the most common thread classes in use, offering a balance of ease of manufacture, cost and performance. Classes 3A and 3B are best suited where close tolerances, safety and strength are required, and thus are frequently specified for socket cap and socket set screws.
It is not necessarily true that tighter thread tolerances and closer fit insure a better quality assembly and performance. Our engineers can assist you in developing the optimal combination of features for your design application. If you would like more information on this or other technical application questions, email us at [email protected] and we'll be happy to help you
This Ready Made's threads which I noticed immediately, has a bit of a grit feeling to it with some play between them while removing / installing the head. Where my early Alpha's threads were very smooth, almost silky smooth (if I'm remembering correctly as it's been awhile since I sold it. My previous Alpha was made prior to the Ready Made). However, once the head is screwed on, on the Ready Made, it's on tight.
I'd say Jason's description of the Ready Made's threads in his web site is pretty much spot on.
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bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
Thanks very much for that information...most helpful. Again, enjoy your new Alpha RM.
bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
Barefootone, that's good information and much appreciated.
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Barefootone
Enlightened
I would suggest taking a cloth with Windex or simple green and clean the threads and O ring to remove old oil/dirt. Than relubricate the O ring and threads with a couple drops of Nano Oil. You will see a difference IMHO.
Good to know Barefootone, thanks. The threads is really a non-issue for me. The RM performs, is what is most important. It has a well focused IMO beautifully balanced flood. The tint is very much to my tastes (in addition to what I was looking for), so at present, I'm confident that any rattlers who happens to be within our path will be spotted and not washed out IMHO.
bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
Barefootone, I ordered the Nano-Oil from Jason when I purchased the little Beta-QR. I like the way the lubricant is packaged; it allows for precise and minimal distribution of the product onto the thread surface. Excellent product. Thanks again.I would suggest taking a cloth with Windex or simple green and clean the threads and O ring to remove old oil/dirt. Than relubricate the O ring and threads with a couple drops of Nano Oil. You will see a difference IMHO.
Barefootone
Enlightened
bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
AZPops, do you happen to use the flat-top AW 18650 2900mAh protected cell that Jason sells in your new light? Thanks.
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I'm running either EagleTac 3100mAh, or one of the many (when I fist got into lights, .... and I bought a lot of them ... lol) ****fire 2500mAh button top's.
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Barefootone
Enlightened
bluebonnet,
I use the AW 18650's in my light and I bought them Jason. They are a protected cell and hold up very well.
I use the AW 18650's in my light and I bought them Jason. They are a protected cell and hold up very well.
bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
O.K. and thanks for the information.
bluebonnet
Newly Enlightened
Thanks for that information. If I order the Alpha RM, I'll order the flat-top AW 18650 at the same time. This would be my first experience with an 18650 cell, so I'm trying to do things right.
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