Hello? FourSevens Are You Out There?

[gunga]

Is there anywhere to buy the olight clip?

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Google olight clip.

Bill

 

[radiopej]

Is there anywhere to buy the olight clip?

Going Gear has them.

 

[recDNA]

I have a Quark neutral 2 x CR123A standard not tactical flashlight. I have used it in my bathroom for years. Neutral is perfect for checking skin, injuries, etc.

Anyway it just stopped working. I cleaned threads but nothing. Then I switched head to tail end and tail to head end of tube. For some reason it works now but loosening or tightening the head has no effect on modes. It now always starts in moonlight and takes 3 clicks to get to high. Any ideas on how to fix it myself? I hate to send it in for repairs.

 

[Hondo]

Definitely sounds like you are dealing with contact issues still. In your present state, you just need to get the end of the tube to make contact to the outer trace inside the head. Sometimes just cleaning has not been enough for me. Try putting a fine piece of sandpaper, preferably something like 320 silicon carbide paper, if you have it, on a flat surface. Then work the end of the tube on the paper. Back and forth, twisting, whatever. See if that gets the turbo-strobe modes back when tightened. Just a wipe with alchohol (or Deoxit if you have it) is all you should need for the trace on the PCB in the head.

 

[recDNA]

No sandpaper but I will try alcohol on pcb. I only did threads. If I had to lose a mode I wish it were the one starting in moonlight. I only use the highest output.

 

[reppans]

Try THIS paperclip bypass to test the head function. Loose bezel modes get their negative ground through the threads, tight bezel modes get their negative ground through a combination of the threads and the outer brass ring on the PCB, so use a rounded end on the paperclip to connect both simultaneously.

If the head works fine, it could be a loose screw down collar for the pocket clip, or a loose clicky retaining ring (tighten w/needle nosed pliers), or dirty clicky contacts (open it up and clean).

 

[Hondo]

If you don't have sandpaper and cleaning the trace in the head does not do it, you can attack the end of the tube with a Scotch Bright pad from the kitchen, or an SOS pad, or any steel wool. If none of that is on hand, just use a sheet of paper and work the end of the tube vigorously on that. You are trying to wear off a thin layer of aluminum oxide that has formed on the raw aluminum, and acts as an insulator.

 

[recDNA]

Try THIS paperclip bypass to test the head function. Loose bezel modes get their negative ground through the threads, tight bezel modes get their negative ground through a combination of the threads and the outer brass ring on the PCB, so use a rounded end on the paperclip to connect both simultaneously.

If the head works fine, it could be a loose screw down collar for the pocket clip, or a loose clicky retaining ring (tighten w/needle nosed pliers), or dirty clicky contacts (open it up and clean).

Not using the clip. Tried the clicky retaining ring. Very tight. Will try scrubbing the end of tube. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

~ C.G.

 

[RedLED]

Definitely sounds like you are dealing with contact issues still. In your present state, you just need to get the end of the tube to make contact to the outer trace inside the head. Sometimes just cleaning has not been enough for me. Try putting a fine piece of sandpaper, preferably something like 320 silicon carbide paper, if you have it, on a flat surface. Then work the end of the tube on the paper. Back and forth, twisting, whatever. See if that gets the turbo-strobe modes back when tightened. Just a wipe with alchohol (or Deoxit if you have it) is all you should need for the trace on the PCB in the head.

This is excellent advice, also try a Scotch Brite pad from the kitchen, but don't reuse it in the kitchen. Or, a pencil eraser is an old trick

 

[recDNA]

Thanks to a combination of ALL your suggestions I just got my neutral Quark working again as it should. Both sets of modes work properly again. Thanks so much. There is no replacing this excellent flashlight as you all know.

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

Excellent! One would really hate to lose the use of an irreplaceable Quark.

Last Wednesday I received all the parts for a discontinued Quark Turbo AA2. I'd wanted one for quite some time but didn't have any luck on Panjo or the Market Place. FourSevens.com put all the parts on clearance. When they arrived I experienced the same issues recDNA did with his. A call to FourSevens, a little investagating by T J and the problem was solved. Seems the new head doesn't work with the old bodies. The new, new body should arrive any minute.

Thanks T J & FourSevens for the great service. :twothumbs

~ Chance

btw, Ha ha, Suefire. :nana:

 

[reppans]

Good to hear all around, these lights are pretty tough - it usually turns out to be simple connection issues. Closest I've come to a failure was a Turbo 2L that I dropped half a dozen times on asphalt - light went dark on the last drop..... turned out to be a protection circuit failure on an AW 17670.

Surprised to hear any Lego incompatibility, I have new and old heads and everything in my collection seems to Lego fine.

btw, Ha ha, Suefire. :nana:

LOL.. love it!

 

[recDNA]

Excellent! [emoji14]arty: One would really hate to lose the use of an irreplaceable Quark.

Last Wednesday I received all the parts for a discontinued Quark Turbo AA2. I'd wanted one for quite some time but didn't have any luck on Panjo or the Market Place. FourSevens.com put all the parts on clearance. [emoji14]aypal: When they arrived I experienced the same issues recDNA did with his. A call to FourSevens, a little investagating by T J and the problem was solved. Seems the new head doesn't work with the old bodies. The new, new body should arrive any minute.

Thanks T J & FourSevens for the great service. :twothumbs

~ Chance

btw, Ha ha, Suefire. :nana:

That's a really nice flashlight. Had it been a neutral I would have been all over it. I often thought about buying that model with an extra 1 x CR123 body so I could run jt with 2 x AA or 1 x CR123. Then they were gone.

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

Good to hear all around, these lights are pretty tough - it usually turns out to be simple connection issues. Closest I've come to a failure was a Turbo 2L that I dropped half a dozen times on asphalt - light went dark on the last drop..... turned out to be a protection circuit failure on an AW 17670.

Surprised to hear any Lego incompatibility, I have new and old heads and everything in my collection seems to Lego fine.


LOL.. love it!

Yep, same here, or so I thought. The new AA2 body solved the problem. Unfortunately, the new body is sans any lettering. I'm going to call FourSevens Monday, and ask if there's a way to fix the issue with the old body. My intention for the light has always been an addition of discontinued 4Sevens offerings, not one I'd be EDCing. Not really a Queen if she's not wearing her official robes.

~ Chance

 

[recDNA]

Quarks deserve to be used imo but then you never asked my opinion! LOL

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

Quarks deserve to be used imo but then you never asked my opinion! LOL

Indeed! The thing is, I've been spoiled by my QP2L-X. It's really hard to leave at home. Besides, it's not like I bought all the AA2 Turbos and every once in a while, I need a fix. I will use it, just not going to put it into EDC. Feel better?

~ Chance

 

[pomah]

Indeed! The thing is, I've been spoiled by my QP2L-X. It's really hard to leave at home. Besides, it's not like I bought all the AA2 Turbos and every once in a while, I need a fix. I will use it, just not going to put it into EDC. Feel better?

~ Chance

I must agree on that, I cant replace my qt2l-x, cant find anything with that size and such a great UI... I just hope that foursevens can do something similar...

 

[recDNA]

Indeed! The thing is, I've been spoiled by my QP2L-X. It's really hard to leave at home. Besides, it's not like I bought all the AA2 Turbos and every once in a while, I need a fix. I will use it, just not going to put it into EDC. Feel better?

~ Chance

Absolutely! Makes a good kitchen light. I still use an old javevin with P60 drop in.

I have a neutral 2 X CR123A Quark in both bathrooms, a Quark ti AA X 1 in the living room and a Quark ti 2 x CR123A in the den! All are used. I also have a Xeno in the kitchen on the microwave cuz I cannot see the buttons.