Prime / Prime Pro. Every Day Carry Lights.

[ArmyTek]

Is the honeycomb diffuser lens option offered on any prime models ?? BTW sorry bout the multi post issue here I've got a hair trigger on the send button.

Old versions of Partner was designed with a honeycomb diffuser. We removed this diffuser in order to make the beam of Partner/Prime more focused. You can easily change optic yourself in Armytek Prime Reg.

 

[The_Driver]

Old versions of Partner was designed with a honeycomb diffuser. We removed this diffuser in order to make the beam of Partner/Prime more focused. You can easily change optic yourself in Armytek Prime Reg.

Which optic from which manufacturer do you use?

 

[Tachead]

Does anyone have the new Prime C2 Pro V3 XHP-35(Warm)? What is the tint like? How do you like it? Thanks.

 

[SubLGT]

Well, I received my Prime C1 Pro V3 XP-L (Warm)...This is my first Armytek light and I have to say I am very impressed with it so far, everything works perfectly….The indicator beacon works perfect too. It shuts off after 2 blinks on the 2 moonlight/firefly modes(Actually it still blinks but very, very dimly….The body of the light is well machined and has very nice "real" Type III anodizing that is much better then many brands. ...The only flaw I can really find with this light is the clip. The groves it sits in on the flashlight body are spaced too far apart and this allows the clip to sit crooked. Either they need to be moved closer together or the clip needs to be widened. It could also use a ramp to stop it from getting caught on your pocket when clipping it on….

I have the same flashlight and agree with your observations. I solved the loose clip problem be inserting the lanyard ring as a spacer.

My sample has begun to experience main LED flicker when the flashlight is set on a solid surface tail down. Set it down when in the higher output modes with anything more than a very gentle touch, and the LED will flicker once from the mild shock. My XP-L equipped Wizard Pro does the same.

 

[Tachead]

I have the same flashlight and agree with your observations. I solved the loose clip problem be inserting the lanyard ring as a spacer.

My sample has begun to experience main LED flicker when the flashlight is set on a solid surface tail down. Set it down when in the higher output modes with anything more than a very gentle touch, and the LED will flicker once from the mild shock. My XP-L equipped Wizard Pro does the same.

Mine doesnt do this no matter how hard I bang it. I am running 18350 flat tops which may help. It is probably due to the magnet in the tail pulling on the battery combined with the weight of the battery pulling it away from the positive contact. Its too bad they didnt make it a duel spring design. Try using a q-tip with some isopropyl alcohol on it to clean the positive contact on the light and your cells. You could also stretch the spring a bit.

Edit: what batteries are you using?

 

[SubLGT]

I'm using an AW unprotected button top 18350.

 

[Tachead]

I'm using an AW unprotected button top 18350.

Ok, I thought maybe a loose fitting 16340 could be exaggerating the problem but, that's not the case. They really should have included a battery sleeve for using 16340's and CR123a's. I am going to get one for mine. Try cleaning the positive contact if you havent already. Maybe it is something else like a bad solder joint though. Mine doesn't do it at all and since I talked to you I tried my best to repeat it. I am using Keeppower High Drain INR18350 flat tops(black) in mine. If all else fails, send her back to AT. It only has to go to Canada now and is pretty "hassle free" lol.

 

[SubLGT]

Cleaned all the contact surfaces and treated with De-oxit, and charged the battery. Still get the LED flicker from mild mechanical shock on the tail. The irony is this Prime Pro was a warranty replacement 10 months ago for a Prime Pro that would completely shut down from a very mild impact. I have lost my enthusiasm for Armytek flashlights. But at least shipping to Canada will be cheaper and faster than my last experience.

 

[ArmyTek]

Which optic from which manufacturer do you use?

Optics is made of acrylic glass.

 

[The_Driver]

Optics is made of acrylic glass.

That is not what Iasked.
You wrote above that the optic is easy to replace. How can we replace it if we don't know what to replace it with?
Which manufacturer?

 

[ArmyTek]

That is not what Iasked.
You wrote above that the optic is easy to replace. How can we replace it if we don't know what to replace it with?
Which manufacturer?

Please note, if you replace the optics, it will not be a warranty case. All information about optics you can read on armytek.com.

 

[eraursls1984]

Old versions of Partner was designed with a honeycomb diffuser. We removed this diffuser in order to make the beam of Partner/Prime more focused. You can easily change optic yourself in Armytek Prime Reg.

Which optic from which manufacturer do you use?

Please note, if you replace the optics, it will not be a warranty case. All information about optics you can read on armytek.com.

So how can he easily change the optics?

 

[ArmyTek]

So how can he easily change the optics?

You can choose and change the optics by yourself, but the company is not responsible for flashlight work with other optics.

 

[Tachead]

Does anyone have a new Prime C2 PRO V3 XHP35(warm)? What is your tint like? Thanks.

 

[DaveTheDude]

My Prime C2 (regular version) appears to have a color temperature of about 4500K.

 

[Tachead]

My Prime C2 (regular version) appears to have a color temperature of about 4500K.

Thanks for the reply, but I am wondering about the tint, not the colour temperature, and am looking for others with the XHP35(warm) in particular.

 

[Woods Walker]

Well finally ordered the C2 plus extra A1 body for my Primes. I think there are 3 Prime about the house though one is getting tossed into the BOB. I bet the runtimes should be rather long using a 3500 mAh over the 700-900 mAh of the smaller lithium ions I am using in the C1 and A1. Just gotta remember not to feed the low voltage heads 2 lithium or lithium ion primary batteries.

 

[vicv]

I asked this in another thread and it wasn't answered so I'll try here since it pertains to this line of lights. Particularly the v3
The a1 prime lists turbo as 500 lumen for 50 min. I'm sorry that's not possible. The led will need about 1.2A for that output. Triple that for an eneloop due to boosting voltage 3 times that 3.6A. That's a lot of boost so there's going to be inefficiencies. Maybe 4A draw. For a 2ah battery that's 30 minutes or less. And since the light shares the same head and driver as the c1 does that mean the output goes up with a 14500 to the c1 output level? And in that case how can there be low voltage protection on a 14500 when the light must presume there's a cr123 cell in there. The manual doesn't show how to change battery type so I presume that can't be changed in the non pro model. But the specifications also state there's low voltage protection for non protected lithium ion batteries. So specs seem quite off
Second problem I see is turbo is 500 lumens. But the highest main is 90 lumens. That's a huge jump. Why isn't there a ~200 lumen high mode. Especially since an eneloop isn't going to support turbo for very long once the cell can't support turbo anymore it would be nice to have a mode higher than 90 lumen as a normal high mode. Same as the partner. From looking at the site the tiara mode spacing is perfect. Or the v2 prime. I think the v3 prime is poorly executed

 

[The_Driver]

You can choose and change the optics by yourself, but the company is not responsible for flashlight work with other optics.

Which company makes the optics for Armytek?

 

[ArmyTek]

Which company makes the optics for Armytek?

We are not authorized to provide this information.