HDS Systems EDC #21

[Lungbarrow]

Since I'm new to the rotary interface, two questions:

1) should it feel smooth like a premoum
volume knob? Mine feels ever so slightly grainy.

2) is there ever a need, and therefore is it possible, to clean the rotary dial?

 

[d13avo]

So Jon, the NB 170N is, in HDS terms, neutral rather than high cri? 'Cos that's what I've got - still my favourite.
P

Me too that's why I ordered the Nichia 219B 4500K for my Titanium.

 

[d13avo]

Oh, I loved that overpolished bezel. I should try with car polish, maybe I could get something nice with a regular bezel ?

Yeah I loved these too. I remember seeing this polished bezel that was so much more shiny than the bezel on my 170N. I contacted Henry for another one but he said that there were just a batch that had been over polished by the machinist.

 

[peter yetman]

Me too that's why I ordered the Nichia 219B 4500K for my Titanium.

My next quest.
P

 

[jon_slider]

So Jon, the NB 170N is, in HDS terms, neutral rather than high cri? 'Cos that's what I've got - still my favourite.
P

I believe the short answer is Yes, IF it was sold as a 170N it means close to the Neutral Tint Line (aka BBL), and it is >85 and <90 CRI

bear in mind that the word Neutral has more than one meaning, depending on context, and who is saying it

Yes, Henry calls lights with Neutral Tint, the ones with a CRI above 85 but below 90. In that context he is also saying that the Tint is close to the BBL, or what he calls the Neutral Tint line. (In the past he used the term Guaranteed Tint, (which meant "white" not green or angry blue). This Tint term, is separate from the Color Temperature, which at 4500k is also called Neutral White

Neutral Tint
Neutral White
Neutral CRI

oh my!

here is our prior discussion on this topic
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...stems-EDC-19&p=5135565&viewfull=1#post5135565

it IS rather confusing

Im glad you have a light you are happy with, I do believe it is over 85 CRI, and I do believe the Tint is close to the BBL, or below (pink), and not above (green), and I do believe it is 4500k.. so still yes, Neutral White, Neutral Tint, and Neutral CRI.. (which is imnsho a real *******ization of terminology.. the word Neutral has been abused and appropriated for so many disparate meanings, that at this point the word Neutral is rendered practically meaningless, unless specifically qualified in context)

I do consider 85+ CRI to be excellent, regardless what terms we use to describe it.. And I LOVE the N219b LED (yours is probably N219b 4500k 85+CRI 9050).. hard to go wrong there...

atm, my pick of the Nichia Litter is the N219b 90+CRI 4500k 9080

My next quest.
P

I support your quest! I now have that LED modded into a Novatac Storm, and several other non HDS lights.. it is my GoTo for EDC
And when the time comes for me to own a Rotary, it will also be modded to N219b 4500k 9080

I honestly care more about the LED, than what light it is in.. its like Bacon, the N219b 4500k 9080 makes everything better...

 

[peter yetman]

Thanks Jon, nice we nailed it at last.
And what would life be without conversation?
P

 

[jon_slider]

what would life be without conversation?

Banal, moreso than Neutral.. LOL

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Since I'm new to the rotary interface, two questions:

1) should it feel smooth like a premoum
volume knob? Mine feels ever so slightly grainy.

2) is there ever a need, and therefore is it possible, to clean the rotary dial?

The current tails will have a slightly gritty feel especially counter-clockwise. No cleaning or servicing necessary on it.

 

[Strintguy]

Thanks everyone for helping me identify my emitter, so great to have the collective intelligence here.

 

[jon_slider]

Novatac, a Gateway to Rotary

Its a Bright New Day!

I am the proud new Virtual Owner of an HDS Rotary 200 w CW XP-G, circa 2011.
Presently on Diplomatic mission to Europe, with a Novatac Gen 1..
Anticipated return across the Great Water, to make landfall in North America, next month..
Our Men on the Ground have transmitted via secure satellite communications, the following proof of Light:

Got Tailstanding? Check!

Got Orange Peel? Check!

Got Nipples? Check!

Got Tint? Check!

The Revolution is Alive and Well ;-)

 

[ven]

Congrats! looks quite nice does that for a CW as well

 

[thermal guy]

I sometimes forget how small Henry's old light are.much easier to pocket carry.

 

[d13avo]

I believe the short answer is Yes, IF it was sold as a 170N it means close to the Neutral Tint Line (aka BBL), and it is >85 and <90 CRI

Correct Jon. I have a 170N and remember the CRI being listed as 88.

 

[jon_slider]

Congrats!

thank you, its been a long time coming
the green tint has to go though, that light is destined for an N219b 4500k 9080 mod

I sometimes forget how small Henry's old light are.much easier to pocket carry.

Yes, the Novas a cute little handfuls, but for my size large hand, I suspect the HDS will be a better fit, as I find the beam of the Nova is often blocked by the side of my hand.

otoh, Im really impressed with how tight the hotspot is on some of the Novatacs, such as the one pictured. I also really like the Tint, even though it is cool, it is not green.

Correct Jon. I have a 170N and remember the CRI being listed as 88.

thank you for confirming my understanding, Im grateful that you took the time to post

fwiw, Ive heard that when Nichia says an LED is 90CRI, they give themself +- 5 points of "tolerance", and in my experience 85+ CRI is very very nice, even it it is not actually 90+

Ive had other 90+ Nichias that actually measured 87 and 88 CRI, that is "normal" for the breed..

Congrats on your 170N, those sound like outstandingly nice lights regardless how High CRI is defined..

 

[Modernflame]

...and in my experience 85+ CRI is very very nice, even it it is not actually 90+

You're right. There's little difference between 85 and 90 CRI. I'd be surprised, though, if Henry didn't quality check each emitter and guarantee that it meets the standard he advertises.

 

[scout24]

I'm certain if HDS says a light is x lumen or x cri, that it's been in the sphere and the numbers quoted are a minimum. One of the few, if not the only, manufacturers I'd trust with that.

 

[jon_slider]

One of the anticipated benefits of me receiving a Rotary in stock form, is that I will be able to use it as a Calibration reference for my homebrew meter.

after that, I can change the LED to sw45 High CRI and get a good idea what the modded lumens become.

I dont expect any advantage, since the XPG is Cool white, and in other swaps to High CRI I am accustomed to seeing a 30% lumen loss, in exchange for the 30% increase in CRI. To me, CRI is much more important that Max Lumens...

Cool White can be fine for many things, but at the end of the day, I want my High CRI!

One of the unanticipated coincidences of my adoption of an XPG Rotary, is that it is the same LED that I chose not to experience in Hogos rotary passaround.. I figured.. just buy a Rotary already, why mess around? So I put 10 Ti Rotaries w SW45 into my cart, but, forgot to pay.. LOL... fortunately a more affordable option materialized

 

[Lungbarrow]

The current tails will have a slightly gritty feel especially counter-clockwise. No cleaning or servicing necessary on it.

Thank you!

 

[indigon]

One of the anticipated benefits of me receiving a Rotary in stock form, is that I will be able to use it as a Calibration reference for my homebrew meter.

after that, I can change the LED to sw45 High CRI and get a good idea what the modded lumens become.

I dont expect any advantage, since the XPG is Cool white, and in other swaps to High CRI I am accustomed to seeing a 30% lumen loss, in exchange for the 30% increase in CRI. To me, CRI is much more important that Max Lumens...

Cool White can be fine for many things, but at the end of the day, I want my High CRI!..

You might try a Lee #162 filter under the lens of that XP-G for fun, you'll be amazed by the results..

 

[thermal guy]

My U60XRGT just ran for 20 days at .33! And I have 4 more levels lower then that if need be.love old school hds lights.also let the battery go down to 2.3 volts. Gets every last drop of juice out of the battery.