Ultra High CRI AAA option, JetU E21a, and JetU Solis, post your beamshots

[clemence]

Beam shots attempting to show color are virtually meaningless much like the photos you posted that would not be at all like how our eyes would interpret the images. It's obvious that only one of the images was properly white balanced.

I know pictures can only be used as TINT comparison at best, even this is truly dependent on your screen (mostly still use RGB LEDs). But to me it's FAR BETTER than verbal comparison. I posted that picture to help people decide before buying anything from my store.
FYI, all pictures were shot under the same 5600K WB. If you want to check the RAW files you can contact Jon and I will send it to him.

[Clemence]

 

[archimedes]

....
FYI, all pictures were shot under the same 5600K WB....

Thanks clemence, that is very useful

 

[Modernflame]

Well it seems that color balance discussion did not stick because these photos are not remotely representative of how the eye would perceive the scene and yet you are defending it. Maybe you are the one that needs some reflection?

It's akin to crossing the beams. I find these photos very useful, but I understand the limitations.

 

[bykfixer]

I can bias my camera settings to look like these photos and the RAW data still show the same WB for all four files. (Or change room light sources to achieve same).

They are certainly an attempt to get a point across, and do a good job of it but like 3me said, do not necerssarily show what my eyes would see.

Looks too pink imo like it's just a better boost to reds versus previous nichias. You just don't notice because the other 3 are so yellow biased.

 

[Modernflame]

Somebody help me out here. What is the difference between the Jetu E21A R9080 and the Jetusolis R95?

 

[spaceminions]

I can bias my camera settings to look like these photos and the RAW data still show the same WB for all four files.

They are certainly an attempt to get a point across, and do a good job of it but like 3me said, do not necarssarily show what my eyes would see.

a) Please elaborate on how you would cause the camera to bias the results, because I am simply curious.

b) Explain please what you think a raw file does with the stored white balance number, such that it matters if it shows the same or different. I do not think I can have understood correctly if you say that it matters.

c) Explain why you think it is more objective to edit the photos to look subjectively like what one person's eyes perceive in this case? Perhaps you would prefer to see the appearance when individually white balanced using a grey card, to show what they would look like if viewed individually such that the eye might adjust to the color temperature. However, I claim that when you have them all together in the same image, without explanation, it is better not to change that, and instead to imagine the situation of four tables right next to each other with the same items on them, such that your eyes cannot adjust to each one.

d) @multiple people involved: I do not know if this is something our cultures share, but if it were me being accused of doctoring the images, I would be insulted.

 

[jon_slider]

Somebody help me out here. What is the difference between the Jetu E21A R9080 and the Jetusolis R95?

E21a is a type of LED, Optisolis is another type of LED
both are being offered in an AAA host
I think you might like the E21a in 5000k...

E21a has a very consistent illuminated area

Optisolis is less efficient, but has higher R9 CRI and higher Ra CRI
it also does not light up the entire dye, so requires diffusion

I modified these images to add the orange arrows, and boxes, and to add the LED photos. Pics are 4x leds, not single LEDs

The Duv value informs about the tint, I prefer negative Duv, that means below the BBL, but the daylight references for CRI actually have positive Duv.. iow, daylight has more green in it than incandescent light.


in this next image, from maukka, you can see that the cooler Optisolis land above the BBL (Duv is a positive number, towards green tint), and the warmer ones land below the BBL (Duv is a negative number, towards magenta tint):

 

[Modernflame]

Thanks, Jon. That's extremely helpful, as usual.

 

[jon_slider]

Here are some E21a, both single color, and blended
the arrow shows the CCT closest to typical camera daylight white balance of 5600k

I have the E21a sm203, 2000k, and it is a gorgeous warm, non green color, shown with an N219b 4500k, and a cool white low cri LED on the right, for comparison:

and next to the two Sofirn C01 Yujis:

and here are the E21a, Optisolis, and N219c:

you can see the 6500k optisolis is the whitest, the 2000k E21a is the richest orange, and the 219c tend to be on the yellow end of the variations

 

[archimedes]

Do you happen to have a Duv value for the 4000K Optisolis ?

 

[jon_slider]

Do you happen to have a Duv value for the 4000K Optisolis ?

Optisolis 4000k
Duv 0.0001



for comparison
E21a 4000k
Duv 0.0000

 

[archimedes]

Duv 0.0001 ....

Wow, thanks. I think I now know why I like this particular emitter so much

 

[jon_slider]

Optisolis is possibly THE highest CRI Ra and CRI R9 option out there

note however that it is much lower lux than the E21a

 

[archimedes]

I like lower lux

 

[Modernflame]

Definitely leaning toward an Optisolis. Exploring color temp now.

 

[maukka]

Here's an imgur album link for 1 JetUE21a (2000K) and 7 Jetusolis (2700K, 2x3000K, 3x5000K, 6500K). Measured from the hotspot.

https://imgur.com/a/17cUdNx

I recommend getting Optisolis for CCT 5000K+ and E21a for lower.

 

[desert.snake]

Last night I looked at 6500K from all sides, a lot of blue, mb for the spectrometer it shows a good reflection of red, but blue somehow affects the perception of red inside my eyes, so for me personally it is too blue. I think 5000K will be more pleasing to the eye

I thought a little where we have something like a test red? I don't have a testing card of red color, but for that is pepper sauce, how many bottles I bought, the color of the cap changes from batch to batch, but the color of the sauce itself is almost unchanged, as well as the taste, so I suggest not focusing on it in this case

At first I took a photo in the daylight, now it's 11.30, the weather is slightly cloudy, beautiful spring landscape!

 

[desert.snake]

Now look at the 4 lanterns next: SF 6PX 6000K +/- 500K ??CRI, Malkoff M61N 4000K 80CRI, YL T95CRI 3*219C 4000K 90CRI, HDS 219A 4500K R8870, Jetusolis 6500K 99CRI.

 

[desert.snake]

And now the most interesting thing begins - I cut out the slices of plates with sauce, is closest to daylight exactly flashlight 6500K

+ his schedule is very close to the standard light source D65
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illuminant_D65

even had the idea that the creators of these diodes customized them to this standard:



I think this flashlight can be recommended to workers in the printing industry.

















upd.

right - industrial standard

Optisolis™ provides a natural light source with a spectrum that achieves the industry's closest match to that of the standard illuminant, including both the sun and incandescent. Optisolis™ is optimized for the general lighting market and is accomplished through Nichia's own blue chip and phosphor technology. Manufacturers can utilize Nichia's Optisolis™ technology and trust in a spectrum where all colors are reproduced to that seen under a standard light. Most importantly, since UV emission is essentially non-existent in the spectrum, the degradation of irradiated materials can be reduced dramatically compared to that of other light sources containing UV emission, including other market available LEDs.
Optisolis™ target applications include Museums, Art Galleries and Hospitals, where a natural light source is preferred to most accurately represent an object, but UV radiation and light sources can be detrimental. Additional applications could include Color Evaluation（e.g. painting, printing), Commercial Lighting (e.g. retail, etc.) or anywhere a natural light source is desired.

There is also a suspicion that the camera has added an additional blue color due to the fact that it simply lacked the brightness of one flashlight. We must make a multi-eyed light of these diodes:

 

[bykfixer]

To answer post 26:

Never said photos were doctored.

The digital camera sensor sees the world in black, white and shades of gray. A computer program decides from there what shades of gray equal a given color. Each camera has it's own built in biases. Canon for example tends to make certain colors pop better than say, Nikon or Pentax. A Sony has its own characteristics and so does Panasonic. I shoot with Nikons because I understand their given tailoring (or lack therof) where my wife prefers the Canon method of biasing.

An SLR capable of RAW photos can be tailored deep into the settings to give an appearance in photos that differs from factory alogorthims. My D7000 for example is a wee bit flat in green tones. I changed it slightly in the purple and green tones to cause a better 'pop' with green without affecting reds and blues. I boosted red slightly in my D700.

Overhead lights such as one of those pink hue street lights, an incan table lamp bulb or an incoming sunset can cause the camera with a specific WB setting to cast a bias into the photos.

For me, I tailor white balance in RAW photos to match what my eyes see, unless a given change of the photo is preferred. Say it caused the orange of a sunset to appear more red in the photo and I was shooting "wow" pix for a customer. Yeah, I'd keep the photo as is. Plus editing is tedious. Even pitb at times. But if my goal is to acheive more realism, editing it is.

Does that mean I 'doctor' them? I don't believe so. Nor would I consider the subject photos to be doctored.

Now take a wedding scene shot in a given setting with a curly fry bulb on one side and sunset on the other side lighting up a pure white dress.... The dress will look blue on one side and orange on the other in a photo where to those in the room it will appear white overall. Even when a flash bulb is used.

My wife used to shoot weddings I did not attend so as an outside observer I would edit the photos to gain a more realistic set of photos. Often minor white balance changes solved the issue. Other times gamma, hues and tints, saturations and/or other adjustments were required to acheive proper flashtones once the white balance was corrected.

Hope that answers the questions.

Do these lights do a good job at correct rendition? Let the buyer decide. My brain tells me the CREE 6200's by PK are fine given the correct intensity on a given object.