Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

[TheFraz]

Totally agree...getting slimmer is the way to go. That's where we're moving. The tiny pieces that allow us to get there are a different beast....but we will tame it.

 

[Sos24]

Totally agree...getting slimmer is the way to go. That's where we're moving. The tiny pieces that allow us to get there are a different beast....but we will tame it.

I really appreciate all the improvements that you make.

 

[djans1397]

So I ordered an XHP 50.2 emitter to replace in this light. I was unsuccessful in installing it however. I had a hell of a time getting the screws to go back in the place to hold the LED circuitboard. I eventually gave up and attempted to reinstall the original SST 20. However when I twisted it to turn the light on I started smelling something and there was a bit of smoke I swear. I quickly unscrewed it. I assume I had the LED in backwards. Does it make any difference as to which terminal go to which screw? Overall it was not near as easy as I expected it to be. In the process I broke my replacement LED. So overall it was a major fail. 😩

 

[TheFraz]

I really appreciate all the improvements that you make.

Thank you

 

[TheFraz]

So I ordered an XHP 50.2 emitter to replace in this light. I was unsuccessful in installing it however. I had a hell of a time getting the screws to go back in the place to hold the LED circuitboard. I eventually gave up and attempted to reinstall the original SST 20. However when I twisted it to turn the light on I started smelling something and there was a bit of smoke I swear. I quickly unscrewed it. I assume I had the LED in backwards. Does it make any difference as to which terminal go to which screw? Overall it was not near as easy as I expected it to be. In the process I broke my replacement LED. So overall it was a major fail. 

Sorry about the issues, but whatever it is it will be an easy fix. Is the XHP 50.2 one of the 3v ones? Also it will need just a tiny bit of solder on the contact points to raise the points high enough to ensure constant positive pressure. Yes, full disassembly can be a bit tricky at first as those parts are small (I have big hands myself so it has taken a bit of practice to get fast). Yes, the positive lead needs to go to the screw end and the negative to the nut end. It is easiest to change out the LED by loosening the nut end slightly then unscrewing the screw end and the LED should come out easily. Then you can put it back in under the negative side washer first and screw the allen wrench side back in. If you put the screw on the end of the allen wrench along with the washers it should be fairly simple to get it to go back into place. You have to hold the spring retention piece (aluminum piece on the other side of the engine that somewhat resembles a coke tab) in place with your hand while you screw or it may be a bit difficult to get purchase on the threads. As for the smoke, it definitely should not have done that even if you had the LED in backwards. Did you have multiple cells in the unit? The LED should be fine, you likely bridged a straight short somewhere else (I would guess the metal tab on the bottom side of the engine was hanging out and bridged the positive side of the battery directly to the battery tube - that probably tripped the short fail-safe which caused the electrical smell).

Whatever it was, I'm more than happy to get it fixed for you - any issue it was will be easily fixable/replaceable. And I have to get the video out on the easiest way to replace the LEDs.

I'm also going to post instructions in a minute that we have sent people on how to tighten the washer-leads. It is also a good source for replacing the LED as it is done in much the same way.

Update: here are the instructions for tightening the LED in the engine. Works the same way for taking one out except you loosen the nut and screw for the first op.

1) Take the battery out of the battery tube
2) Take the piston out of the engine and remove the QTC from the piston
3) Put the piston back into the light with no qtc on it
4) Screw the battery tube back in tight
5) Make sure the LED pads are centered under the washer leads
6) Get some needle nose pliers and tighten the nut over the negative lead
7) Get an allen wrench size 5/64" and tighten the machine screw over the positive lead
8) Put the qtc back in your piston and the battery back in your battery tube

 

[thermal guy]

See now THIS is customer service at its best😁

 

[Sos24]

See now THIS is customer service at its best[emoji16]

Agree!

 

[djans1397]

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation! That's what I was looking for. I think I can get it reassembled now. Just have to order another XHP50.2 3V as I broke the other when trying to install it. They sure are fragile ☹️

 

[404_Unobtainium]

Looking forward to the official "how to" for the tiny nugget. Want to swap some leds and want to watch the official officials do it before I give it a whirl

 

[TheFraz]

Been a bit since I've posted, but we've been busy...

I'm listing these 2 lights here first before they go to the website, one shiny and one matte. The first 2 Tiny Nugget Slimlines (the Gold Nugget) in brass. 200$ for each, and they come with some extras that are not with the aluminum models. They will ship by next week. PM me if interested and I will take the first 2 who pay.

Details:

These lights use all new internals that are in my opinion a huge upgrade over the original 'wireless' system. A tab-contact design that has allowed us to shrink the footprint of the light and reduce parts. The components are also now much easier to reach and change. There are now only 2 possible points of water incursion (the optic and battery tube - both o-ring sealed). There are now only a handful of parts that we do not machine in-house (the springs, LED, optic, and o-rings). This light has implemented every comment we have received from customers (and ourselves). Overall we are very pleased and are looking forward to getting the first units out there. When we get back home we will also start to get Tiny Nugget Slimlines and Tiny Nugget 2s ready (they both use the same internal design as these first 2 Gold Nuggets).

Pictured below are the new internal components before assembly, fresh off the mill today:

Please let me know if you have any questions and PM me if interested. I'll leave these up for sale on CPF only until we get back home.

Thanks!
-Fraz

 

[thermal guy]

The week I'm short of cash you make these lol. Will there be more made?

 

[gunga]

Very neat. What size are these?

 

[TheFraz]

The week I'm short of cash you make these lol. Will there be more made?

Lol sorry about that - yes we will be making more. And we will also have some of the aluminum versions available as well. I'll make a post on here when they are ready.

 

[TheFraz]

Very neat. What size are these?

Thank you . They are 3.05" x 1.3"

Here it is next to the original Tiny Nugget:

Significantly smaller than the original Tiny Nugget (the old one is 1.45" width).

 

[thermal guy]

Please put me down for a shiny brass please.

 

[gunga]

I think I'd like to grab an aluminum one when available. 4000K Samsung

 

[pilo7448]

Yes shiny brass for me as well in a few weeks

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk

 

[chipwillis]

That look nice. Let me know when you have more. I love the new size.

 

[popehatz]

Would love to claim either one but new acct here and cannot PM. Let me know, these look fantastic!

 

[tech25]

Great job, I like the slimmer design!