Do you still have the TN31 carriers available and how are they modified? I just received a TN32 and found that it's battery carrier was too short between the end plates to hold most protected 18650 batteries. Maximum allowed battery length was about 68.4mm. I have disassembled mine and shimmed under both end plates so it will now accept batteries up to 70mm+ length. Interested in getting a spare carrier for the light if you still have any.
Hello, i am working on a S200C2 eagletac. When i mod it with a xpg2 the amps go down to 1.6amps instead of 2.6amps original with the xml2. So they tell me to add resistors on the circuitboard. Problem : how can i get to the circuitboard without damaging the head? What resistor do i have to change?
I can solder an have a bit knowledge of electronics (changed circuitboads before).
Just got the 2500L drop-in and tried it in my SF 6P with 2x aw imr 16340. It just doesnt work at all. I dont see any structural damage, just no light from the LED. Am I doing someting wrong? Other drop-ins, both LED and incan, work just fine in this bode/cells configuration.
Received my C21C thanks for the timely shipping. Few things though you might want to be aware of. Modes go high, turbo, med and low in that order. Seems strange, maybe that is normal for this light but not from what I can tell. I was unaware that dedoming would cut lumens down as much as it does. For me it would only make sense to do on a thrower unless there is something I'm missing. To make any buttontop batteries fit I had to remove the washer. Some do fit now. Seems that battery tube was not reconnected to head fully. It is not "square" with the head. This may help explain the battery problem? Hard to believe that main beam is 5000K seems much warmer but I have no way of knowing independantly. Of course without a direct measurement it is subjective. I don't want to act on this in any way. I hate dealing with the post office etc. If I order another light would it be alright to ask for some better QC?
I'm a noob on the CPF forum and I asked who could help me re-build my Dosun R6 A300088, you were recommended.
Awhile back I dropped my Dosun R6 and cracked the lens and the tailcap click switch stopped working, I sent it to Dosun and they did nothing about the lens but supposedly replaced the switch. Well long story short the switch does not work and lens is still cracked.:shakehead
My big idea (have no idea if its possible) is to get it fixed using the experts here at CPF. After reading alot of posts and threads i think I would like to replace the emitter with possibly a Nichia 219, get a trustworthy tailcap switch and have the lens replaced.
Is this something you can do? Do you have any suggestions? I'm open to upgrades if you have some cool ideas.:thumbsup:
Thanks and I look forward to hearing back from you.
I am looking to have someone upgrade/mod a couple lights with newer XM-L2s for me. Specifically a Thrunite Catapult V3 and a Dereelight CL1H-T.
The Thrunite currently has a neutral XM-L. I want to upgrade this to the brightest possible XM-L2 Cool white. I don't know if Thrunite will be offering a pill upgrade to XM-L2 soon or not, so I'm open to your suggestions. The light tends to hunt through the brightness levels when I loosen the head, but in full brightness mode is reliable.
The Dereelight used to have the best tint, I believe it was XM-L T3 7A but it burnt out. Gott a new XM-L2 cool white pill cuz they didn't have any warms in XM-L2. The new cool white XM-L2 pill has green center, purple spill with slight doughnut. Ugly. Hoping you can toss a warm XM-L2 in there and make sure beam is focused?
Should I shop for the LEDs and send them in with lights, or send you pills, let you supply LEDs and see how they turn out?
Any suggestions or questions let me know, Thanx!