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  1. lumengeek

    Nitecore D10 LED replacement

    Thanks for the speedy replies everyone, much apprecieted Great that it seems so easy to take the D10 head apart, it looks like this has just given me an excuse to buy the D10 :p I will keep the Fenix 'as is'. I actually like the cooler white of the standard Q5 for working on equipment during...
  2. lumengeek

    Nitecore D10 LED replacement

    Hi all, I am considering purchasing a Nitecore D10 (Q5 version) as I quite like the styling of this light. However, I will probably want to replace the emitter with a warm version. I have no problem with soldering on a new emitter, but I was wondering about the head itself - is it physically...
  3. lumengeek

    Hig pressure inside Fenix L2D?!

    Needle through tail switch is a good idea - thanks, I'll do that! :grin2: I have a charger that charges individual cells and can do a capacity test (Technoline BL700) so when I get around to it I'll cycle the cells a couple of times then see what their capacity is being reported as. I do know...
  4. lumengeek

    Hig pressure inside Fenix L2D?!

    That must have been it then, thanks for the reply I guess it's not a safety issue by itself, but it could be a bit nasty if the hydrogen/oxygen inside the light was ignited by trying to switch the light off :)
  5. lumengeek

    Hig pressure inside Fenix L2D?!

    Hi all, I was just doing a discharge duration test on my Fenix L2D (on high) with 2x2000mAh Uniross NiMh cells inside. The light was tailstanding, and everything was normal for the first ~1 hour, the body was slightly warm as you'd expect. Then I went downstairs for 10 mins, came back...
  6. lumengeek

    Malkoff M60W: Not a typo, it's the WARM version!!

    There are a few mentions in this thread that warm white is preffered for outdoors use, I'm just wondering what are the reasons for this? I'm very interested as I'm building some mountain bike LED lights right now, and the lower efficiency of warm whites wouldn't bother me really because my...

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