10.5in IS Sphere incan OTF readings by bigchelis

bigchelis

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Mods,
I have this in the LED section, but if its okay I would like to keep the Incan section here. Thanks!




SpreadsheetIncan1.png

SpreadsheetIncan2.png

SpreadsheetIncan3.png

SpreadsheetIncan4.png

SpreadsheetIncan5.png

SpreadsheetIncan6.png

SpreadsheetIncan7.png





Light____________________Lamp_____________ Cells____________ Lumens____ Time___5m lux__1m lux (cal)__

Surefire C2 w/KT-1________6V Stock N1_________2 Surefire CR123_________97.7______1 sec______460______11,500_____
________________________________________________________________76.2______30 sec_________________________
________________________________________________________________70.8______1 min__________________________
________________________1.09A at the tail___________________________69.2______2 min_________________________
_________________________________________________________________70.0______3 min_________________________
Surefire C2 w/KT-1________6V Stock N1__________5*2/3 NiMH___________155.4______1 sec______927______23,175_____
_______________________________________________________________146.2______30 sec_________________________
_______________________________________________________________142.3______1 min__________________________
________________________1.19A at the tail__________________________138.5______2 min_________________________
________________________________________________________________137.7______3 min_________________________
 
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RichS

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Many thanks bigchelis!! It's great to see the actual out the front lumens on these very popular incan hotwires.

Let me be the first to place my vote on this being added as a sticky, or at the very least to the 'Incandescent Forum - Threads of Interest' sticky. It will be referenced a lot...

BTW - is there any way you could add the P91 and LF IMR-9 information to this chart? I saw these readings in your other chart in the LED section.

Thanks again!!
 
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^^Nova^^

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Awesome work.:twothumbs

It would be interesting to see how the 5761 stacks up as well. I realise you don't have a never ending supply of torches (how cool would that be), but just thought I would mention a bulb that would be nice to see measured.

Cheers,
Nova
 

Justin Case

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I hope you can figure out a way to test a 4D Mag623 using 5xIMR26500 with a JimmyM constant voltage regulator.
 

jaundice

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Justin;

I plan on bringing it over to BigC's house as soon as I get it. :D

BigC;

I haven't spoken to you about this, but I have one of Justin Case's new builds coming. By his description, you should be able to guess what it is! It's a Mag623 running at 15.5v for 160 watts! Do you have a fire extinguisher handy, in case it's too much for your sphere?

-John
 
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bigchelis

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Wow...let me know when you get that 160watt monster. We can measure it starting at 1 minute to allow for the peak temperatures to drop and keep my Sphere somewhat fire safe.


We can do the 5 meter lux too just for kicks.

bigC
 

ANDREAS FERRARI

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Thanks for posting this BigC.:twothumbs

I thought the JC5607 might perform nearly as well as the FM1909 but apparently not.

Can you tell me the runtime of these bulbs.You would think the 5607 would run longer but than it is being severely overdriven and might be drawing as much juice as the 1909.Any thoughts?
 

bigchelis

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Thanks for posting this BigC.:twothumbs

I thought the JC5607 might perform nearly as well as the FM1909 but apparently not.

Can you tell me the runtime of these bulbs.You would think the 5607 would run longer but than it is being severely overdriven and might be drawing as much juice as the 1909.Any thoughts?


Honestly; I been using them on my Desk Lamp:D It is 12v with no sag via wall outlet and they last about 2 weeks before they :poof:. So, maybe 20 hours at least before they go :poof: and 12V with no sag is driving them harder than the 3 IMR C cells.
 

Justin Case

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Wow...let me know when you get that 160watt monster. We can measure it starting at 1 minute to allow for the peak temperatures to drop and keep my Sphere somewhat fire safe.


We can do the 5 meter lux too just for kicks.

bigC

I'm not sure anything is going to decrease after only one minute. The JimmyM regulator should keep the input voltage to the Osram 64623 bulb constant as long as the 5xIMR26500s can hold above 15.0V. So in theory, incan output should be constant until the batts give up the ghost. At about 10A draw, that shouldn't take too long.

Another option is to test with an Osram 64440 IRC bulb, which should draw less than 5A at 15.5V. That bulb should be able to run at 18V-19V and still deliver a decent balance of lumens vs bulb life.
 

Jay T

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Thanks for posting this BigC.:twothumbs

I thought the JC5607 might perform nearly as well as the FM1909 but apparently not.


What is really strange is that from the chart an 1185 on 3 x IMR26500s is a little brighter than the JC5607 on 3 x IMR26500s?

I wonder what the builds of these lights were? Were they using a kiu socket, an AW soft start or was it a simple drop in adapter with the spring tower? The higher the current the greater the voltage drop, and the spring has a good deal of resistance.
 

bigchelis

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What is really strange is that from the chart an 1185 on 3 x IMR26500s is a little brighter than the JC5607 on 3 x IMR26500s?

I wonder what the builds of these lights were? Were they using a kiu socket, an AW soft start or was it a simple drop in adapter with the spring tower? The higher the current the greater the voltage drop, and the spring has a good deal of resistance.

Yes, the WA1185 was brighter with less current to boot.

For both lamps I used the same 2D Mag with stock switch and no soft-start. The spring in the tail is super short and I just put a plastic pipe to hold the IMR 26500 cells in place. If you see I actually tested the WA1185 in my 2D Mag twice. The 1st time the cells were drained to less then 4V or so; which was my attemp to not blow the bulb. Then I got brave and topped off the IMR C cells at 4.21v each and it worked with no soft-start and I got much higher OTF readings too. I use a FM bi-pin kit for those lamps.

I been meaning to re-do the WA1185 and FM 1909 with a resistance mod, but I think I have to do that to the switch not the tail cap resistance.

I don't have anymore D size switches as I think the FM1909 melted something in there. This is the 2nd switch it does it to:confused::(:tired:

If anybody has a D size switch that has a resistance Mod already done to it please PM so I can re-test, but I can't gurantee it wont melt or get damaged...Thanks.
 

Fulgeo

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Just wanted to say I have used the FM1909 quite a bit and have not experienced any trouble with switch failures. I used a 3D Mag host and a Kiu socket kit to make my mod(s). I also did resistant mods including using copper braided wire and car water hose sections to make the tail spring. Bigchelis, I would be very interested in knowing how your switch failed. If you disassemble your switch and determine how it failed please share your results. Thanks in advance.

Happy mods!
 

Justin Case

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The consensus on CPF seems to be that the D Mag switch can handle about 4A-5A without problems. Thus, the 1909 lamp might be marginal. One person might have a switch that can handle around 5A, while someone else has one that can handle 4A. Or the various parasitic resistances in one light results in a current draw of say 4.5A, while a different, lower resistance light might pull 5.5A. Using IMR26500s can have an effect as well.

There is a thread in the Homemade forum on installing a 10A Radio Shack rocker switch into a D Mag switch housing.

IMO, a better option, though more expensive and more involved, is building a mod'ed D Mag switch using the excellent JimmyM hotwire regulator. You get soft start, regulated incan output, low batt warning, temperature sensing, and multimodes (if you want that regulator version).
 

RichS

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BC - I often get asked - "so how does your light compare to one of those big stock maglites?". Many people still consider the 3D Maglite the "biggest and brightest" flashlight you can buy.

I actually bought a 3D Maglite and left it completely stock just so I could do a direct comparison with it compared to one of my hotwires. When I'm not able to actually demonstrate the difference, I estimate the difference in lumens. But, I would love to be able to tell them the actual tested out the front lumens of a 2D or 3D stock Maglite.

By any chance, would you happen to have (or have access to) a stock 2D or 3D Maglite that you could test in your IS Sphere?

Thanks!

-Rich
 
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Jay T

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The consensus on CPF seems to be that the D Mag switch can handle about 4A-5A without problems. Thus, the 1909 lamp might be marginal. One person might have a switch that can handle around 5A, while someone else has one that can handle 4A. Or the various parasitic resistances in one light results in a current draw of say 4.5A, while a different, lower resistance light might pull 5.5A. Using IMR26500s can have an effect as well.
--- snip ------

The switch or the switch tower assembly? The switch is a little black and blue thing stuck inside the tower. It sounds like bigchelis is melting the tower where the spring goes.

I have a 100W (8-9A) Mag that I bought from Fivemega, do you know what the switch at the heart of this light is. If it's good enough for an FM build it's good enough for me.


^The tower has been cut off and a metal pin from the lamp holder directely contacts the switch when it is installed in the light.

No doubt a regulated driver or installing a high current rocker would be better, however, I doubt a 1909 is pushing the stock switch past it's limits.

Edit to add:
That's the good thing about a KIU kit. You eliminate the whole tower contact/spring/contact thing and just solder a wire right onto the switch.
 
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bigchelis

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My FM1909 pulls 5.6 + at the tail with 3 IMR 4.21v 26500 cells....


The spring that pushes the tower down bends or looses tention where they stop working. I think the actual switch still works, but the springs give out where they somehow make my 2D Mag not work.. I use FM Bi-pin kit and thats it.

I wish I had the regulated Mag switch for the tests maybe I can borrow Jaudice for testing.:D
 

jaundice

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I wish I had the regulated Mag switch for the tests maybe I can borrow Jaudice for testing.:D

BigC;

Sounds good to me. I'll bring it on over when it shows up. The only real issue is that once the JimmyM regulator is set for some specs, it's not that easy to change them. I mean, it's not like you'd just sit on your couch and change settings to see what the result was. It apparently takes some time and patience to get it right. Mine is set at 15.5v and a medium softstart. I can't wait to get it!

-John
 

Justin Case

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The switch or the switch tower assembly? The switch is a little black and blue thing stuck inside the tower. It sounds like bigchelis is melting the tower where the spring goes.

I have a 100W (8-9A) Mag that I bought from Fivemega, do you know what the switch at the heart of this light is. If it's good enough for an FM build it's good enough for me.


^The tower has been cut off and a metal pin from the lamp holder directely contacts the switch when it is installed in the light.

No doubt a regulated driver or installing a high current rocker would be better, however, I doubt a 1909 is pushing the stock switch past it's limits.

Edit to add:
That's the good thing about a KIU kit. You eliminate the whole tower contact/spring/contact thing and just solder a wire right onto the switch.

The clip contacts that you see poking out of the black and blue barrel part touch a contact ring when the push button is pressed. When you exceed the switch capabilities, I think that you can get arcing between those contact points. AFAIK, that's the origin of the 4A-5A Mag switch limit. And an FM1909 definitely can pull close to 6A.

The Kiu socket does not get around the fact that the Mag switch contact ring has to contact those clips.
 
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