~1500mA AC Driver

[hellokitty[hk]]

Hello, I hear that the Nichia 219 high CRI 4500k has a superb tint and I'd like to try that out on an LED desk lamp.
I'm looking into the 3x star at illumination supply and wire them in series.

I'm looking for an AC -> DC constant current driver that will drive them them at about 1500mA.
Dimmable and modes are a plus but are not required, and are secondary to price.
I'm very much hoping for something cheap <$15.

Also, does anyone have any suggestions on optics? I'm fairly sure I will simply leave them bare but if anyone has done something similar and has comments please do tell.

I've looked all through DX and could not find one that fits my needs. I'm thinking Ebay may have what I want but it's so difficult to find things.

EDIT:
I am also looking for some way to get ~1v to power a spare fan I have. It happens to fit exactly in my heatsink otherwise I'd just toss it. It runs on between .5 - 1.5v but I'd prefer it to be on the lower side because I don't want it being noisy.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Shadowww]

For optics, I'd use Carlco TIR lens from the very same illuminationsupply: https://illuminationsupply.com/carclo-10508-100mm-frosted-medium-array-p-146.html
Frosted (aka diffused) lens are IMO perfect for desk lamp use.

And for driver, I'd use https://illuminationsupply.com/powe...3.html?zenid=bd5e7dca95c9caddd5e2237d191a0886 together with something like this: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ac-pow...amera-5-5-2-1mm-us-plug-100-240v-56426?item=2

 

[hellokitty[hk]]

Hi thanks for the reply. I'm not really interested in optics to make the beam tighter, at most I would use some sort of optic to diffuse the light better, like a plain frosted lens.

I already have a few possibilities in mind using a cheap AC to DC driver feeding another DC to DC driver but I'd rather avoid doing that if possible as it decreases efficiency a bit.

For example something like DX SKU 42741 1300mA 20W constant current LED driver (85v - 265v). The specifications say that it is constant current at 1300mA for a voltage range of 16 - 18.
However, some reviews seem to imply that it can be used as low as 12v, and possibly lower. It also seems to only output 1200mA but at that price this is acceptable.
I'm considering giving it a try and hoping it will run near 10v...

 

[Shadowww]

AC-DC PSU and DC driver might be less efficient solution, but it's a bit safer - high voltage AC doesn't reaches the DYI stage of lamp.
@the SKU 42741: even if it can't run at 10V, you can add 2-3ohm 5W resistor in series with LEDs, and then it'll work as Vf "seen" by driver will be 12-14V.

 

[hellokitty[hk]]

@the SKU 42741: even if it can't run at 10V, you can add 2-3ohm 5W resistor in series with LEDs, and then it'll work as Vf "seen" by driver will be 12-14V.

I have also considered that 🙂 But at a power loss of about 3w that is also a last option.

After much searching I have found Ebay item number 150844871314. It appears to be the perfect driver with an output voltage of down to 9.4v and amperage stated as 1400mA - 1500mA. The price is about what I would expect for something like a cheap chinese driver you'd see on DX... and also well within my hopes :thumbsup:

I hope it will be as advertised. If anyone else has any experience with it or has an alternate solution...

but it's a bit safer - high voltage AC doesn't reaches the DYI stage of lamp.

That's a good point I didn't think of! If I use the driver above, what reasonable safety precautions should I use? From the looks of it I may have to wrap up the whole thing in kapton tape or something.

 

[hellokitty[hk]]

As a side note does anyone know a source for XM-L T5 4C/4D?
(bump)

 

[yazovyet]

A nichia is rated at 100-110 lm at 350mA, at 1500mA it goes to approx 350%, thats around 350 lm. with 3 LEDs you'll get around 950 lm directed mostly in one direction. Thats a really bright desklamp but sounds like it will be pretty neat!

I'm wanting to do somehting like this as task lighting for the kitcken counter, the info you've brought up looks usefull, ty.

 

[Mike S]

The T5 4500K XML's from Digikey are really nice. They actually look a little cooler than 4500K, but it's definitely not higher than 5000K.

 

[hellokitty[hk]]

A nichia is rated at 100-110 lm at 350mA, at 1500mA it goes to approx 350%, thats around 350 lm. with 3 LEDs you'll get around 950 lm directed mostly in one direction. Thats a really bright desklamp but sounds like it will be pretty neat!

Yes I know and I like light (this is cpf!).

The T5 4500K XML's from Digikey are really nice. They actually look a little cooler than 4500K, but it's definitely not higher than 5000K.

Yes I've seen them on digikey and newark and mouser, but AFAIK they are saying something like T5E4, which you can look up on the binning and labeling as either 4C, 4D, 4B, or 4A.
On digikey as far as I remember the part numbers were like XMLAWT...L....T5E4D-ND or T5F4C or something like that... I'm also unsure of that means that it is a 4D or 4C but it appears as though the 4 is part of the E4 so I am not sure if they are actually meaningful...

Thanks for the replys.
I think that no one has used this 1400-1500mA driver before, and in fact I cannot find the driver listed anywhere else; I've only seen the other version that's 12-16v or something. I even wonder if perhaps the specs are wrong, but I guess I have to try it out. If no one has other comments I will order in the next week or so and I'll put up my findings.

Although I'd like some advice about the HV AC that needs isolating.

 

[PCC]

The only non-flashlight LED light I have is a Jansjo desk lamp sold at Ikea for $10. That light uses a wall-wart style AC to DC converter then they employ a very simple AMC7135-based driver to drive a Luxeon Rebel at 500mA. There's an on/off switch inline between the wall-wart and the lamp. Using this type of circuitry design you can try locating an AC to DC converter converter with a high enough wattage rating to handle what you are trying to do then use a buck driver to control the LED output.

 

[Mike S]

Yes I've seen them on digikey and newark and mouser, but AFAIK they are saying something like T5E4, which you can look up on the binning and labeling as either 4C, 4D, 4B, or 4A.
On digikey as far as I remember the part numbers were like XMLAWT...L....T5E4D-ND or T5F4C or something like that... I'm also unsure of that means that it is a 4D or 4C but it appears as though the 4 is part of the E4 so I am not sure if they are actually meaningful...

Yeah, I was just about to edit my post again after looking at the kit codes, but you beat me to it. Like you said, it looks like the chromaticity bin can be either 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D.

Out of the dozen that I ordered, I haven't been able to detect a difference in tint and always assumed they were exactly the same.

 

[hellokitty[hk]]

The only non-flashlight LED light I have is a Jansjo desk lamp sold at Ikea for $10. That light uses a wall-wart style AC to DC converter then they employ a very simple AMC7135-based driver to drive a Luxeon Rebel at 500mA. There's an on/off switch inline between the wall-wart and the lamp. Using this type of circuitry design you can try locating an AC to DC converter converter with a high enough wattage rating to handle what you are trying to do then use a buck driver to control the LED output.

Yes I have considered that and have a few setups in mind, but I would simply like to avoid using two drivers.
I'm also interested in those cheep high power AC->DC drivers and how they do, maybe I will use some later.

 

[hellokitty[hk]]

Hate to bump it again but I'm excited to get started.
I'll give it a few days for anyone to come around and comment on the driver, and I'll hope for a bit of advice on electrical safety of that little ac to dc power supply and then I'm going to order.
Thanks everyone.