Hammer Train
Banned
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2008
- Messages
- 716
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1765 Lumen P60 Quad XPG Silver Plated Copper Heatsink Direct Drop-in, in developement
- Thread starter VanIsleDSM
- Start date
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he pmed me about it last week, i also had to order it.
but i am a little concerned about if we can get it out later on....hehe
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
It's not a necessity to use thermal grease, I do recommend it though. It will improve heat transfer between the drop-in and the host, giving you more lumen.
You can use any type of thermal grease found at any computer store. My personal favourite is Artic Silver 5.
Isopropyle will remove any trace of the thermal grease if you decide you want to remove it from your host.
Right now I am PMing people on the original list, post #320. After I am through the list I will be making a sales thread and selling these first come first serve.
You can use any type of thermal grease found at any computer store. My personal favourite is Artic Silver 5.
Isopropyle will remove any trace of the thermal grease if you decide you want to remove it from your host.
Right now I am PMing people on the original list, post #320. After I am through the list I will be making a sales thread and selling these first come first serve.
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Hammer Train
Banned
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2008
- Messages
- 716
pm sent :wave:
smokelaw1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Wait, now I'm more confused than ever. Is the thermal grease required/strongly suggested for use as a P60 dropin? I'll be using mine in a bored 6P, and have no thermal grease.
If needed...what kind do you recommend?
If needed...what kind do you recommend?
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
It's not necessary, but I do recommend it.
The surface area is large enough, it won't really matter which type you use, can just be the cheapo white stuff. But even the expensive stuff is cheap enough, I've had the same tube for a long time. Arctic Silver 5 is what I use.
I use it between every drop-in in every flashlight though.
I don't have any actual figures, but with the grease you'll lower the thermal resistance between the drop-in and host. Might be 5-10C. You'll gain some output for sure, less heat will be trapped inside the host. How much? I can't say for certain, but it will help.
The surface area is large enough, it won't really matter which type you use, can just be the cheapo white stuff. But even the expensive stuff is cheap enough, I've had the same tube for a long time. Arctic Silver 5 is what I use.
I use it between every drop-in in every flashlight though.
I don't have any actual figures, but with the grease you'll lower the thermal resistance between the drop-in and host. Might be 5-10C. You'll gain some output for sure, less heat will be trapped inside the host. How much? I can't say for certain, but it will help.
donn_
Flashaholic
Do you think the effects will be as dramatic with the silver-plated drop-in? If it's snug in the FM host, won't the silver plating essentially do the same thing?
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
The silver plating is to help spread heat around the outside of the heatsinik, and to stop any oxidization from building up on the copper. Oxidization is good for emitting heat (like an anodized heatsink) but it's a very poor conductor of heat, and since a drop-in is a conductive heatsink, (conducts heat into the host, which then dissipates it) not a convective, or emissive heatsink, I use the silver plating to enure there's no "insulation" between the drop-in and the host. This is the same reason why I do not anodize my aluminum drop-ins. I have my own anodizing tank, but doing this makes the heatsink conduct heat into the host less effectively.
Thermal grease fills up all of the little micro gaps that are still there, even with a snug fit, to ensure the best thermal transfer possible. The CPU in your computer has a heatspreader milled flat, very precisely, as does the heatsink, but using thermal grease stills makes a big defference, nobody doesn't do it, all of the OEMS use it.
It is still completely up to you though. If you want the extra output, however much it may be, then go for it. Artic Silver 5 (AS5) will probably be $5-15 at your local computer store. I just put a little dab on the inside of the host, and then smear it around with some paper towel over my finger, remove any excess, just a thin layer all the way around is what you want, not enough to ooze out when you push the drop-in down.
Thermal grease fills up all of the little micro gaps that are still there, even with a snug fit, to ensure the best thermal transfer possible. The CPU in your computer has a heatspreader milled flat, very precisely, as does the heatsink, but using thermal grease stills makes a big defference, nobody doesn't do it, all of the OEMS use it.
It is still completely up to you though. If you want the extra output, however much it may be, then go for it. Artic Silver 5 (AS5) will probably be $5-15 at your local computer store. I just put a little dab on the inside of the host, and then smear it around with some paper towel over my finger, remove any excess, just a thin layer all the way around is what you want, not enough to ooze out when you push the drop-in down.
flashfiend
Enlightened
I strongly advise you to design the FETtie to screw into the 26XXX tail. I may have to withdraw my interest in the 26XXX version of the FETtie if it does not have this feature.
Btw, I thought thermal grease is a poor electrical conductor. Can this create another potential issue?
Btw, I thought thermal grease is a poor electrical conductor. Can this create another potential issue?
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Post #337 explains perfectly well that I am making threaded versions now.
I was just trying to keep costs down, but out the window with that I suppose. I have a few plastic drop-in FETties around I'll let go for less, but the new brass threaded ones will be $38 and fit both FM and Surefire hosts.
Thermal grease is a poor thermal conductor compared to aluminum or copper, but not compared to air, which is what would fill the microgaps if you didn't use thermal grease.
My drop-ins don't make electrical connections through the heatsink, therefore the thermal grease will have no effect on this. The ground is made through a silver plated beryllium copper spring, with a gold plated contact area. -No better way to possibly do it.
I was just trying to keep costs down, but out the window with that I suppose. I have a few plastic drop-in FETties around I'll let go for less, but the new brass threaded ones will be $38 and fit both FM and Surefire hosts.
Thermal grease is a poor thermal conductor compared to aluminum or copper, but not compared to air, which is what would fill the microgaps if you didn't use thermal grease.
My drop-ins don't make electrical connections through the heatsink, therefore the thermal grease will have no effect on this. The ground is made through a silver plated beryllium copper spring, with a gold plated contact area. -No better way to possibly do it.
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flashfiend
Enlightened
Sorry for my misunderstanding and thank you for clarifying. I am glad the new version fits both the FM 26XXX and Surefire hosts. Can you please confirm my order by PM? Thanks again.
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Well, sorry for the teaser, the new switch will not fit both hosts.
I forgot about the stupid little lip in the surefire Z59 tailcap that doesn't allow the threads the screw down far enough. The switch has to be so shallow to fit in the Z59, that there are no threads that far down, and a seemingly useless lip which would stop any threading from passing by (which is why it can't be interchangeable) The 6P Z59 switch must remain a drop-in.
The FM version will thread in. The 6P version will drop in and use a friction fit inside the switch boot to hold it in place while the tailcap is removed.
Forgot to mention, the new brass threaded FM26XXX FETtie will be able to heatsink into the tailcap, so I will be using a thermally enhanced MOSFET package which will bump the FM FETtie's current allowance from 12A to 50A, and up to 20V. This should work well for crazy direct drive projects, and hotwire users.
I forgot about the stupid little lip in the surefire Z59 tailcap that doesn't allow the threads the screw down far enough. The switch has to be so shallow to fit in the Z59, that there are no threads that far down, and a seemingly useless lip which would stop any threading from passing by (which is why it can't be interchangeable) The 6P Z59 switch must remain a drop-in.
The FM version will thread in. The 6P version will drop in and use a friction fit inside the switch boot to hold it in place while the tailcap is removed.
Forgot to mention, the new brass threaded FM26XXX FETtie will be able to heatsink into the tailcap, so I will be using a thermally enhanced MOSFET package which will bump the FM FETtie's current allowance from 12A to 50A, and up to 20V. This should work well for crazy direct drive projects, and hotwire users.
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flashfiend
Enlightened
AFAIK, the AW switch for the Z59 is a drop-in, possibly similar to what you just described for your FETtie. As for my purposes I am hoping to use your FETtie in a FM26XXX body and your quad drop-in. Just waiting to hear the good news from you.
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
What is the AW switch? Can you post a link?
Just fnishing up the first 3 threaded FM26XXX FETties right now. One for you flashfiend, and the other two for donn and ptolemy, sent out free of charge to replace the non threaded versions they received.
Just fnishing up the first 3 threaded FM26XXX FETties right now. One for you flashfiend, and the other two for donn and ptolemy, sent out free of charge to replace the non threaded versions they received.
donn_
Flashaholic
:twothumbs
No sign of the drop-in yet. The last update on tracking is it left San Francisco Customs on Saturday at ~noon.
The AW Softstart switch is a PWM based softstarter with 3 output levels and flash. It's made for use with incans.
flashfiend
Enlightened
AW Incan Switch (see Version A for Surefire Z59) Version B is for the Surefire Z41 tailcap.
I hope this helps.
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
It looks from the AW pictures that my FM verson may fit a Z41, though I can't say for sure.
I don't have a Z41 tailcap to test on, I suppose I should get one.
First person to confirm by PM that they have a Z41 and are willing to ship it to me, will receive their Z41 tailcap back with a free FETtie installed.
I don't have a Z41 tailcap to test on, I suppose I should get one.
First person to confirm by PM that they have a Z41 and are willing to ship it to me, will receive their Z41 tailcap back with a free FETtie installed.
donn_
Flashaholic
I don't do PM, but I'll send you the Z41.
Email your mailing address
Email your mailing address
donn_
Flashaholic
Wow!
I don't know what else to say.
It's here, installed, and incredibly bright. It also has a gorgeous tint.
Here's the host:
And down the muzzle:
Some initial impressions:
This is, by far, the heaviest P60 drop-in I've ever seen. It's easily twice as heavy as Malkoff's brass bell units.
The drop-in didn't make contact with the cell until I added a thin magnet to the positive end of the cell.
Great spacing in the lo-med-hi levels, and it appears to have memory.
The FETtie works fine, although I'm looking forward to the screw-in model. I'm certain to forget it's loose in there, and the first time I change cells, it'll drop out.
The FETtie is a reverse clicky. I must have missed that part of the description. I hate reverse clickies, because they are only on maybe 3-4 of my lights, and they have no momentary, but I'll get used to it.
The beam is not a white-wall hunter. It doesn't have a round hotspot, and its hotspot is large. Spill is ample. I'd call it a medium flood beam, but it's still daylight, and I haven't had it out in the dark yet.
Did I say it's bright? The first thing I did upon installation was shine the high level on the white ceiling 3 feet above my head. It blinded me!
:goodjob::thanks:
I don't know what else to say.
It's here, installed, and incredibly bright. It also has a gorgeous tint.
Here's the host:
And down the muzzle:
Some initial impressions:
This is, by far, the heaviest P60 drop-in I've ever seen. It's easily twice as heavy as Malkoff's brass bell units.
The drop-in didn't make contact with the cell until I added a thin magnet to the positive end of the cell.
Great spacing in the lo-med-hi levels, and it appears to have memory.
The FETtie works fine, although I'm looking forward to the screw-in model. I'm certain to forget it's loose in there, and the first time I change cells, it'll drop out.
The FETtie is a reverse clicky. I must have missed that part of the description. I hate reverse clickies, because they are only on maybe 3-4 of my lights, and they have no momentary, but I'll get used to it.
The beam is not a white-wall hunter. It doesn't have a round hotspot, and its hotspot is large. Spill is ample. I'd call it a medium flood beam, but it's still daylight, and I haven't had it out in the dark yet.
Did I say it's bright? The first thing I did upon installation was shine the high level on the white ceiling 3 feet above my head. It blinded me!
:goodjob::thanks:
