1765 Lumen P60 Quad XPG Silver Plated Copper Heatsink Direct Drop-in, in developement

[VanIsleDSM]

I'm glad you enjoy! Wait until you see it at night, it's a field lighter.

The optic is a Khatod Italian made 10 degree FWHM beam with an XPE, so slightly wider with an XPG. It is the tightest beam of any small triple or quad optic, and cost 3X as much as the Carclo optics that try to compete with them.

The driver does have memory, and a low battery warning for use with unprotected cells.

I am surprised that you needed a spacer though, that larger head that you are using must have slightly more space in it. What type of cell are you using?



I do need to get all the final specifications up. The drop-in is nice and heavy because I have paid attention to every little detail while engineering it to make it as good as it can possibly be. The reason there is no spring on the positive contact, is that there is no need for one, there is already a spring for the switch. This allows me to drop the driver down, and create a very thick heatsink base for the LEDs, 7.2mm thick, over a 1/4". Even the aluminum version has a nice weight to it.

I'll have your threaded FETtie in the mail asap, just had to get the thermally enhanced MOSFETs in. I would like to make a forward clicky version of the FETtie for those that prefer. Personally I like reverse clickies, so you can change modes without clicking off the light, but I understand that there are those that don't. The problem is that reverse clickies are shallow enough to fit in with the battery and elctronics.. just barely, and I mean barely fit. I would have to find quite a small forward clicky to be able to utilize it, but I'm sure one exists.

 

[donn_]

The spacer was needed because the head is a shock isolated head. There's a rubber gasket ahead of the drop-in which isn't strong enough to push the drop-in down to contact the cell.

It's this cell.

What is the indication of low battery?

 

[donn_]

Personally I like reverse clickies, so you can change modes without clicking off the light..

Ahh, but with the forward clickie, you can change the mode without clicking it on! Momentary tap to reach the mode you want, and click it in to lock.

It's all in what one is used to. As I said, I only have a couple of reverse clicky lights, so I'm used to the forward.

 

[ptolemy]

Mine is still not here - wahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

yours looks splendid 🙂

 

[donn_]

It's dark outside now, but it's raining. :shakehead

 

[VanIsleDSM]

That appeares to be the same cell that I am using, though mine is blue, maybe slightly older, it wasn't long ago that I ordered them from batteryspace myself.

Makes sense that it's the head. I'd maybe try to add an O-ring to compress the drop-in further, rather than a magnet. At these current levels using a magnetic spacer will add resistance and cause your light to drop out of regulation sooner, though not by much, I am obsessed with absolute efficiency and performance of the entire flashlight, not just the LEDs themselves.

The low battery indication kicks in at 2.75V, the light will drop into low mode and will intermittently blink off for a quick flash and then back on. It won't leave you without light when you need it, but it will let you know it's time to change the cell.

 

[don.gwapo]

Wow! Did I say it's bright? The first thing I did upon installation was shine the high level on the white ceiling 3 feet above my head. It blinded me!

Donn, looking forward for the beamshots. :naughty:.

 

[Bimmerboy]

It's dark outside now, but it's raining. :shakehead

Not anymore!

:devil:

EDIT: And we've been back to continuous rain since like, 12:30.

Looking forward to some beamshots!

 

[flashfiend]

Ahh, but with the forward clickie, you can change the mode without clicking it on! Momentary tap to reach the mode you want, and click it in to lock.

It's all in what one is used to. As I said, I only have a couple of reverse clicky lights, so I'm used to the forward.

Funny enough I am actually liking the idea of the FETtie being a reverse clicky. There's been a few times I've cycled through the level I want with the forward clicky.

Btw donn, is this the module with the silver plated copper heatsink you received? Is this why the module is so much heavier than other drop-ins you've had in the past?

 

[donn_]

Yes..it is the silver-plated copper copy, and I believe that must be why it is so heavy.

 

[ptolemy]

I got mine today, it's sweet. Here are some quick and dirty pics

I couldn't install the fettie, so using mcclickie 🙁

I really like the tint, it's like cream color or so🙂

oh and like donn_, i also neeed 2 small magnets to make a contact probably about 2mm

 

[VanIsleDSM]

In the PM you sent me ptolemy, you said you couldn't install the FETtie because you were unable to remove the McClicky? There are two indents in the aluminum adapter that you can stick needle nose pliers into, to thread out the McClicky.

These larger heads have more longitudinal room in them than the standard 6P head that I use to test for fitment, thus the need for a magnet.

Does anyone have a link to where I can acquire one of these larger heads? I would like to make a plastic spacer that will compress the drop-in further, eliminating the need for another contact point.

 

[ptolemy]

In the PM you sent me ptolemy, you said you couldn't install the FETtie because you were unable to remove the McClicky? There are two indents in the aluminum adapter that you can stick needle nose pliers into, to thread out the McClicky.

These larger heads have more longitudinal room in them than the standard 6P head that I use to test for fitment, thus the need for a magnet.

Does anyone have a link to where I can acquire one of these larger heads? I would like to make a plastic spacer that will compress the drop-in further, eliminating the need for another contact point.

hi

the heads are here post #4
i can send you the head since i am mailing you the fettie/tailcap anyway.

i found the groove but i tried unscrewing it and it wouldnt budge and i dont want to ruin it.

 

[Noctis]

hi

the heads are here post #4
i can send you the head since i am mailing you the fettie/tailcap anyway.

i found the groove but i tried unscrewing it and it wouldnt budge and i dont want to ruin it.

I ran into the same problem, but later found out that the retaining ring simply requires a LOT of torque in order to unscrew. I suspect there might be some kind of threadlocker holding it in place. You can try to boil the tailcap to loosen it, though pushing down REALLY hard and turning might do the trick.

 

[LightJunk]

I ran into the same problem, but later found out that the retaining ring simply requires a LOT of torque in order to unscrew. I suspect there might be some kind of threadlocker holding it in place. You can try to boil the tailcap to loosen it, though pushing down REALLY hard and turning might do the trick.

Same here. FM could be using a tool secured to a driller to secure the ring. I tried the latter and it worked after much swearing. No signs of thread locker though.

EDIT: Double checked mine and confirm no signs of thread locker. I used the Leatherman plier.

 

[donn_]

There was definitely thread locker on mine. you can see it (red goop) in this photo:

I used right angle pliers and a strap wrench.

 

[ptolemy]

It's not even that. I be first to admit that I am not really handy. Flashlights are pure hobby for me, ie: toys....

This drop-in is pure fun for me...

I figured I would'nt be able to unscrew it without damage and I couldn't.

I live in a small apartment, no workbench or anything...just screw driver/pliers/hammer here...no other tools 😛

It's already mailed off, hopefully, he can install threaded fettie for me.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Threaded FETtie for the FM 26XXX is complete.

I think it may also work for the Z41 tailcap, maybe with slight modification. I will know when I receive the Z41 cap from Donn.

I will send out the threaded version for Donn as I return the Z41 cap, with a FETtie for it aswell.

I will send out the threaded version for ptolemy as soon as I receive the FM tailcap to install it in.

How does the Z41 compare in popularity to the Z59? Which one should I expect more requests for?

 

[donn_]

How does the Z41 compare in popularity to the Z59? Which one should I expect more requests for?

I can't prove it, but I'd bet there are far more Z41 caps in circulation than Z59.

How may FETtie requests you get, in total, depends upon how many of your drop-in you sell, and how many other applications there are for the switch in other lights.

What else is it good for?

Incan hotwires? What's the current capability?

Other LED drop-ins or permanent builds?

 

[Kestrel]

I can't prove it, but I'd bet there are far more Z41 caps in circulation than Z59.

+1. VIDSM, the vast majority of the C-format SF's (6P/9P/Z2/Z3/C2/C3) ship with Z41 twisties, and those who want them may 'upgrade' to the Z59 tailcaps.