299792458m/s
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2008
- Messages
- 39
**While posting in another thread about my Mag623 build, I received several PMs about how my build was going, etc. So, I decided to post a pic by pic guide on how to build a Mag623.
***All pics are thumbnailed, so click on them for the full version. I have added notes to the pics to clarify my instructions.
>>>2D Mag623-The sexy beast that punches you hard in the wallet, but makes a decent batman signal on cloudy nights.<<<
I. Preparation
Materials needed:
II. Assembly
This is a relatively simple mod considering what you get out of it, so don't get apprehensive about tearing up the new mag. This guide assumes that you have already had the body tri-bored and are replacing the switch (since Kiu has his own guide for the high-temp mod).
1. First remove the head and tail cap from the mag body. Also take the spring from the tail cap and toss it aside. We won't be needing it.
2. Next, we are going to remove the switch from the body. Pinch the rubber button cover so it will pop out. Then, insert a 5/64 allen wrench into the button opening. There is a set screw about 1.25-1.5 inches deep inside the button. Once you feel the allen wrench slip into place, turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen the switch. Remove the allen wrench, and the switch will now slide out the rear of the mag body.
3. Now, we need to remove the anodized coating from the inside of the tailcap so the batterypack can make contact. To do this, you can use sandpaper, honing stones, a chisel, a screwdriver, or any other number of crude methods--as long as the coating is removed. I prefer to use a dremel as it gets the job done quickly and provides a nice clean, smooth surface.
4. Now, we can begin reassembling our new creation. Take your switch replacement, and slide it in the rear of the mag. It is a slightly tighter fit, but should slide in with ease. If you are having difficulty getting it into place, ensure the set screw (used to lock the switch into place) is loosened. It must be flush with the side of the switch or slightly indented. If it is still too tight to fall into place, use your battery pack to gently push it into place. Line up the switch and tighten it down using the same method you used to take it out. The set screw for AW's Incan Driver is just above his button. Replace the rubber button cover, and you are off to the next step.
5. Now that you switch is secured, you can place a bulb into the bi-pin socket. REMEMBER: The oils from your skin can damage a Halo bulb, so open the bulb packaging only half way, starting from the end with the pins, and try not to touch the bulb at all. If you open the package only half way, you can put the bulb into place with the plastic seal still on, then remove the plastic. If you happen to touch the bulb, wipe it off with alcohol or acetone and let it dry before use.
6. Ok, we are almost done. All the hard stuff is out of the way. Next, replace the reflector and lens if you are keeping the old mag head. They simply drop in place. Then replace the head. If you went for FiveMega's FM3V-2 head, then just screw it in place.
7. Lastly, place Lux's battery pack in place, and replace the tailcap. (But don't forget to let it rest, and if you overcharge it, use your e-station/AW's low setting on the switch to discharge it to around 17V. Anything more than that will likely flash your bulb unless you sprung for the 64633. Incidentally, Lux's "Destructive Incan Bulb Test" thread is a godsend. It is found here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=179748. Use it. (I've included a picture of my first charge to drive home the usefulness of a voltage meter/e-station. If I had popped this in right off the charge, I would have fried one or more $4 bulbs.)
Congratulations! There is your finished product (compared to a 3D Mag in the second pic and both a budget and pimped Mag623 in the third pic.)
III. Performance and Afterthoughts
A few of my favorite things about the 2D Mag623 build is its versatility and performance. A Mag623 can cost you less than a Mag85 build if you really cut corners (and outperform one by a wide margin), but the 2D Mag623 can also stand out from a collection if you have a few extra bucks to throw at it. Another added bonus is: because it compact enough to look like a normal Mag, but powerful enough to out-shine spotlights, it will scare pedestrians when you turn it on. Now go out and impress your friends and frighten your neighbors. You've earned it.
>>>4D Mag623-A portable sunbeam that will detach retinas at 10m without draining your checking account.<<<
******BEAM SHOTS COMING SOON. RAIN DELAYS :sick2:*******
******4D Mag623 MOD COMING SOON*******
******By requests, I'm going to make the 4D mod a budget build to demonstrate ballpark prices of each******
***All pics are thumbnailed, so click on them for the full version. I have added notes to the pics to clarify my instructions.
>>>2D Mag623-The sexy beast that punches you hard in the wallet, but makes a decent batman signal on cloudy nights.<<<
I. Preparation
Materials needed:
- A Tri-bore 2D Mag Host
- Osram 64623 (or 64633) bulbs
- An aluminum reflector
- A glass lens
- A High-Temp Switch mod or switch replacement
- A 15.6V battery pack from LuxLuthor
- A Universal Smart Chager
- **Optional: An FM3V-2 replacement head (has alum reflector and glass lens)
- **Optional: AW's MagD Incan Driver (switch replacement)
- **Optional: A voltage meter or e-station (VERY useful-removes battery resting guesswork)
- A tri-bore 2D Mag host. If you have someone who can bore it for you, then any 2D Mag will work. Otherwise, I recommend using Jesus Hernandez right here on CPF. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156080
- You will need to find an Osram 64623 (or 64633) bi-pin bulb. These can be found anywhere. Several members of CPF can get them for you, or you can go to ebay, amazon, google, etc.
- You will need a new aluminum reflector and glass lens. (The stock plastic ones will melt in seconds if you do not replace them.) Here is where Mag623 builds can diverge. You can keep the standard Mag head and get a new reflector and lens from CPF Member FiveMega from here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163470, and it will work fine; however, if you have the extra cash to spend, I (and others) highly recommend FiveMega's alternative FM3V-2 from here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=174247. The FM3V-2 head is superior to a stock head because it is lightweight, has a smaller bulb opening, is capable of throwing a wider beam, and just plain looks good.
- You need a switch replacement. The stock Mag switch just sucks for what we are building. There are several alternatives around the CPF B/S/T board, but I highly recommend AW's Incan Driver found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/177316. It is incredible. Besides the greatness of soft starting, you will find yourself using multi-mode more than you think. If you are going for a budget build, though, another board member, Kiu, offers a cheap alternative. The high-temp switch mod found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171607
- Lastly, you will need some juice to power this beast. Look no further than CPF's own LuxLuthor. Go to his thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/191890, and order a 1500mAh 2/3 A Cell 15.6V (13 cell) battery pack. There are alternatives to getting the juice you need, but there is no need to list them as Lux's stuff is top notch for a great price. Both budget and high-quality builds will want this pack. Check out a few of his recommended sites or your local hobby stores to get a Universal Smart Charger for your new pack.
II. Assembly
This is a relatively simple mod considering what you get out of it, so don't get apprehensive about tearing up the new mag. This guide assumes that you have already had the body tri-bored and are replacing the switch (since Kiu has his own guide for the high-temp mod).
1. First remove the head and tail cap from the mag body. Also take the spring from the tail cap and toss it aside. We won't be needing it.
2. Next, we are going to remove the switch from the body. Pinch the rubber button cover so it will pop out. Then, insert a 5/64 allen wrench into the button opening. There is a set screw about 1.25-1.5 inches deep inside the button. Once you feel the allen wrench slip into place, turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen the switch. Remove the allen wrench, and the switch will now slide out the rear of the mag body.
3. Now, we need to remove the anodized coating from the inside of the tailcap so the batterypack can make contact. To do this, you can use sandpaper, honing stones, a chisel, a screwdriver, or any other number of crude methods--as long as the coating is removed. I prefer to use a dremel as it gets the job done quickly and provides a nice clean, smooth surface.
4. Now, we can begin reassembling our new creation. Take your switch replacement, and slide it in the rear of the mag. It is a slightly tighter fit, but should slide in with ease. If you are having difficulty getting it into place, ensure the set screw (used to lock the switch into place) is loosened. It must be flush with the side of the switch or slightly indented. If it is still too tight to fall into place, use your battery pack to gently push it into place. Line up the switch and tighten it down using the same method you used to take it out. The set screw for AW's Incan Driver is just above his button. Replace the rubber button cover, and you are off to the next step.
5. Now that you switch is secured, you can place a bulb into the bi-pin socket. REMEMBER: The oils from your skin can damage a Halo bulb, so open the bulb packaging only half way, starting from the end with the pins, and try not to touch the bulb at all. If you open the package only half way, you can put the bulb into place with the plastic seal still on, then remove the plastic. If you happen to touch the bulb, wipe it off with alcohol or acetone and let it dry before use.
6. Ok, we are almost done. All the hard stuff is out of the way. Next, replace the reflector and lens if you are keeping the old mag head. They simply drop in place. Then replace the head. If you went for FiveMega's FM3V-2 head, then just screw it in place.
7. Lastly, place Lux's battery pack in place, and replace the tailcap. (But don't forget to let it rest, and if you overcharge it, use your e-station/AW's low setting on the switch to discharge it to around 17V. Anything more than that will likely flash your bulb unless you sprung for the 64633. Incidentally, Lux's "Destructive Incan Bulb Test" thread is a godsend. It is found here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=179748. Use it. (I've included a picture of my first charge to drive home the usefulness of a voltage meter/e-station. If I had popped this in right off the charge, I would have fried one or more $4 bulbs.)
Congratulations! There is your finished product (compared to a 3D Mag in the second pic and both a budget and pimped Mag623 in the third pic.)
III. Performance and Afterthoughts
A few of my favorite things about the 2D Mag623 build is its versatility and performance. A Mag623 can cost you less than a Mag85 build if you really cut corners (and outperform one by a wide margin), but the 2D Mag623 can also stand out from a collection if you have a few extra bucks to throw at it. Another added bonus is: because it compact enough to look like a normal Mag, but powerful enough to out-shine spotlights, it will scare pedestrians when you turn it on. Now go out and impress your friends and frighten your neighbors. You've earned it.
>>>4D Mag623-A portable sunbeam that will detach retinas at 10m without draining your checking account.<<<
******BEAM SHOTS COMING SOON. RAIN DELAYS :sick2:*******
******4D Mag623 MOD COMING SOON*******
******By requests, I'm going to make the 4D mod a budget build to demonstrate ballpark prices of each******
Last edited:
like the 6D is)
