1x123 Tail Switch Packs: Post Your Test Results Here

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I got my tail switch today. I flicked it on and off for about two hours and it works fine. It seems to be okay in my pocket and hasn't come on yet. This weekend I'll be in a warehouse shipping disaster relief supplies. If it makes it through that without coming on I'll be impressed.

Wonder if anyone could make a wire stand,like a folding rifle stock, that would fit in the lanyard ring....I'll have to try that......
 
Well, received my 2 switches today at ~3pm. At 8 pm one will not stay in the on position.
Prior to failure:
switch operated perhaps 25 times.
failure occurred just after my removal of the bezel.
battery removed.
same battery reinstalled within seconds of the removal.
tightened bezel
switched on
light flickered on then off then on again
tightened more on lamp
tapped (flicked) with my finger ~6 times on side of rubber portion of swwitch
switch now will not stay on. Only momentary action occurs.
Removed switch from end of pack. no obvious cause.
I don't have time to read above posts right now. My lady's on my case about time away from her
smile.gif
 
day two fiddled with the failed switch
Light comes on in full on mode with no repeatable pattern,
Sometimes when I turn bezel 180 degree sometimes not. I've had switch out of pack many times and cannot discern difference from spare.
Sometimes rotating switch has light on, sometimes not
Light going to all levels of power, full bright to very dim during these trials of bezel and switch manipulations.
Pulled failed switch and replaced with spare
 
Thanks, TOB9595. I may change out the switch on one of mine even though there's been no problem. Maybe the spare is faulty and I wouldn't know it until I needed it. TEST THE BACKUP. Good rule.

McGizmo was right about the split ring. My 1" ring is threaded on only up to the break because of that tiny lanyard hole. The mini-clip has a large ring, though, so there's no practical difference due to hole size. Dangle angle isn't as close to vertical as with the TwistyTail, so carry is sloppier, floppier. Nevertheless, belt loop carry is possible with this configuration.

My second rests quietly at pocket bottom, sans ring.

Neither has failed to ignite fully nor extinguish -- not even one time.
 
HI Guys,

One thing I have noticed is that when you install a kroll switch, make sure it is in the off position. If installed in the on position, the side, barrel contact spring can get hung on the "rivet" contact and the switch will not operate correctly. With a screw driver, you can pop the switch apart and access all components. These are very simple pieces and it may be that a visual inspection will show why one is not functioning. There is no "magic" in this switch so trouble shooting should be straight forward. The only thing that can't be determined is the condition of the side spring, once installed. This is where I believe 90% of the problems or issues are likely to stem from. ( yes, I pulled that percentage right out of the 'ol poop shoot)

- Don

PS. I have it on good authority that berkeleypoint will be offering some 1/2" and 3/4" spliit rings within a week or so. These will be more appropriate for clip attachments.
 
McGizmo, How do you tell if switch is in the on or off position before putting it in the pack?
I think the threading mechanism doesn't lend itself to water proofness. Any thoughts on this?
 
TOB9595,

With the Kroll switch out, look into the interior area where the side spring is. When you depress the switch, you will see a silver "rivet" shape come down and contact the side spring. In the on cycle this "rivet stays in contact with the top of the spring. In the off position, the Rivet dissapears. I am assuming that you want the side spring uncompressed and not contacting the "rivet" during installation. This has seemed to aid in proper function but I can't guarantee that this makes a difference. One thing for sure, if you remove the side spring and then re-install it with the switch on, the spring will catch the lip of the "rivet" and the results will be an "always on" condition. Duh! I have done this numerous times.

As far as the waterproof seal, this is accomplished by the boot lip going down into the Counter bore of the switch bulkhead on the pak and being somewhat compressed. You need to make sure the boot lip does indeed go into the bulkhead or the integrity of the seal is lost. The threads don't provide any seal.

With the switch installed and battery removed, you can get intimate with your pak and blow and suck to determin if a seal is present. Is flavored KY jelly a good thread lube? 🙂 Yuck, I think......... never went there, honest.......
 
Good reports everyone! I do expect some of them to stop working since they failed in our tests as well. The hope is that we can reduce the failure rate.

To that end, McGizmo has provided some helpful suggestions. Your right about most of the failures occuring with the side spring. We are currently trying third party springs but the stock spring still works best.

A trick Munroe came up with to prolong the life of the side spring was to scavenge one from another switch and double them up. This was also suggested recently by a CPF'er.

Also, these should water seal fairly well. We have pressure tested the packs to 200feet without leakage. But the boot must be firmly seated.

Peter
 
Something I noticed while removing and reinstalling the switch is that the side spring will want to rotate against the threads of the pack while screwing it in and get compressed and deformed if not noticed in time. I held it by pinching the rubber cap at the base of the spring while threading it in the last three or four turns. This didn't happen the first time I reinstalled it. If this spring falls in-between the threads it goes in very smoothly,if not it could be at the least compressed and cause faulty or no operation. Just my 1.5 cents worth.
Christoph
 
I've given both of my test samples at least six month's worth of testing by now. I even removed and replaced one multiple times, but never fouled the side spring nor saw any difference in function.

Now can we begin testing the 2xAA version?

Seriously, is there sufficient diameter in the 2xAA body to accomodate this switch? If so, I want one. A lanyard groove is nearly mandatory on that one, though.
 
MarcV,

The existing 2xAA holders are about .020" larger in diameter than the Mag AA which the Kroll fits perfectly. You would be adding length obviously, to the holder to accomodate the Kroll. It is very doable but unless the tail diameter was increased, no wall thickness for lanyard groove. :-(
 
Thanks, McGizmo.

Extra length won't be a problem for me because I carry the 2xAA holstered in a sheath. That means head up, of course. As a result, the lanyard groove would have to be near the head anyway.

In fact, a "pocket clip" capturing a split-ring (your idea on your website) would be excellent for my purpose (safety over the water). I already use that plan for my E2, a light of somewhat similar dimensions.
 
My switch is working without failure. A minor point:

The switch has a "cheap" feeling, detracting from the high quality of the LS. When depressed slowly, I can distinctly feel the spring rubbing and creeping against the switch barrel.

Related to the spring rubbing is the "sproingy" sound of the spring compressing.

Perhaps dry lubrication, coating of the switch barrel or change of materials would help.
 
Rodmeister, do you prefer the sound of the Streamlight Scorpion where muffling occurs because the switch is surrounded by the battery holder?
 
Peter,

Have you seen the RAM Instruments tail cap switch?

3407283.box.GIF


5.99 at Outpost.com

http://shop2.outpost.com/product/3407283

This is an all aluminum cap, with a red plastic sswitch.

Their address listed on the back of the box is:
RAM Instrument
Balboa Manufacturing
5629 Copley Drive
San Diego, CA 92111 USA

www.raminstrument.com

However, that web address has never worked for me.

My only complaint is that the on off button is too soft.
 
I'm afriad the RAM won't fly because it isn't even a little bit waterproof. The switch housing is press-fit into the screw-on case, and the one I had just rattled right out. I'm not too impressed with the RAM, though I understand that some folks really like them.
 
Ok, I made it back and my switch is going strong. I have clicked it at least 5,000 times probably more. I have also rubbed the switch on various surfaces to simulate wear and it is holding up very well. I have been pleasantly surprised with is durability. Now for the extra length the only concern I have with this is the fact it is much more noticeable in my pocket. After using this new switch for two days It need a new battery and installed it. When I put it back together nothing it was dead, well when unscrewing it the light went on. After a lot of tinkering I discovered that this problem was the fault of the switch but my Arc has developed a problem when screwed down all the way the Arc turns off and it does this with all of the battery packs.
 
Faulty switch/ARC.

Same thing has happened to me. I was ready to post a faulty switch post, and I read jtivat’s post about a faulty switch, being really a faulty ARC LS. Trying different battery holders has confirmed this.

Time to put the switch on my back-up ARC LS.

Oh well, after buying almost 10 of these lights (not all for myself) I was due to maybe send one back.
 
JT and mc,

I had the same problem with my SLS orange/red HD; the dreaded flex syndrome. At least with the Kroll, I can back off on the pressure and the light works fine.

- Don
 
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