2/3 A Cell

[rjr104]

I'm trying to find some 2/3A cells. 3v or 3.6v. I've got an old SF6 that works (looks) best with a 2/3A or 2/3AF. I can use sleeved cr2's with a magnet to lengthen it out a scoch, but I'd rather have the real deal.

 

[mdocod]

CR123A translates as "one 2/3rds A"

I'm not familiar with the SF6 so I'm not sure if it was originally a NICD powered light or a lithium powered light...

Most SFs will fit CR123 or RCR123 size lithium and li-ion cells. Make sure you match the correct bulb to the battery configuration though

-Eric

 

[rjr104]

A cr123 is 1.3 in length. A 2/3 a is 1.1. The bulb that originaly came with the light is an r60 (which are still available). All I want to do is put a r/p60 drop in in the light and have the bezel screw down to almost completey seated before the light comes on which works best with two 1.1" batteries. 123's will work, but the bezel is about 3/8" extended which looks bad.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

A 2/3A cell will always be a NiCd or NiMh cell, 1.2 volts nominal, except the first Lithium 3 volts Duracell's which were called DL 2/3A. The first SF bodies using two CR123's, or DL 2/3A are shorter than the current 6P's, and the bezel will not screw all of the way down when LED drop ins are used. My 6Z has this problem, as well as my first 6P.

Bill

 

[rjr104]

Thanks for the reply BE Bill. I ran on all kinds of NIMH/Nicad doing my google thing and also the Duracel which I think is what I want. Any idea if there are any out there anyplace? A few people alude to that battery but show pictires of 123's. Maybe I'll just call a few vendors tomorrow and see if they show that picture because there are no pictures of the DL 2/3A. Flashlights - they keep you entertained (and broke :laughing.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

From what I gather, the DL 2/3A is the same size as standard CR123A's, with essentially same chemistry. It is the size of your body that is the problem, not working well with LED drop ins. Duracell has stopped making their own CR123A batteries (DL 2/3A) and is using the Panasonic, it looks like. I have chopped back some of the springs on my drop ins for better fit.

I guess I need to correct myself. You want to use the R60 (no longer made, but some are still out there) or the P60 LA. It could be that the original LA's for the SF6 (Surefire 6C) were shorter and that is why they worked ok with the DL 2/3A. Just a guess, but worth measuring if you have some older ones handy.

Bill

 

[mdocod]

I have an idea for you:

firstly I wanted to say thank you for asking the question and to those who responded as I can call this the "thing I've learned today"

What if you used a boost regulated LED module with a pair of NIMH cells? The 2.4V would be plenty for many regulators out there as quite a few work well in the 1-3V input range. This would allow you to use the shorter 2/3A/F cells in NIMH format to give you the size needed...

The trick is going to be finding a module, OR, a "blank" module to install the LED and regulator in that fits the bezel to the depth you want... I'm not sure what the head size/depth is on that SF6, but I think this option may be worth exploring..

I hate recommending this place but they do have at least one thing for the right price that might help... DX SKU 5737 for ~$3 is going to be hard to beat to give you the platform put the proper driver into. Something like the 4382, or 4735, or 10084 found there might work as the boost circuit but I'm not sure which ones will fit that blank module best... Might be worth experimenting, or checking around for boards from another source.

-Eric

 

[rjr104]

Hey Eric,
Thanks for the reply and suggestion. Something I hadn't thought about. Seems like a workable solution, and I'll give it a shot. That's the neat thing about CPF - always somebody out there willing to help.
RJ