2 output (not mode) driver

[at4rxj]

Is there a driver you guys recommend that has 2 modes with 2 different outputs? If not, is there a way to rig a multi mode driver to have 2 different outputs?

I'm kicking around the idea of doing a mag mod with 3 bright led's and one red one in the center.

 

[Linger]

Is it possible to canabalize a cheap headlamp with this function (med , high, red)

 

[Gunner12]

Having 2 output is having 2 modes of operation.

Are you looking for a driver to drive the 3 white LEDs, and then the red LED seprately?

Or a driver with 2 different drive currents?

Or a driver that sends current to the white LEDs, and then the red LED(as a second mode)?

You can probably get 2 drivers, one for the white LEDs and one for the red, or wire up the LEDs in series and use a driver that can drive all the LEDs at once. Heck, you can probably fit 4 smaller drivers in a mag, one for each LED.

 

[at4rxj]

Are you looking for a driver to drive the 3 white LEDs, and then the red LED seprately?

Yes... I would like 2 modes... one with the white led's only, and the other with the red led only. Having it remember what mode it was on would be great, but not necessary.

 

[Benson]

Yes... I would like 2 modes... one with the white led's only, and the other with the red led only. Having it remember what mode it was on would be great, but not necessary.

What if you just used a 2-mode clicky switch, with separate (single-mode) drivers for each output?

 

[HarryN]

Depending on how you want to approach this, it might be possible to do it with 1 driver.

Example - The Luxeon III red and red/orange can handle up to 1.5 amps, although I am very impressed with it at 1 amp. If you put this in series with your other LEDs and drive them "all together in series", then they will all get the same current.

If you are careful with the switch design, and always remember to turn off the driver when switching, you could make a switch assy which cuts out the un-needed LEDs. A high ohm resistor across the driver leads could possibly prevent a few second error from being really bad.

Another approach that I have used, is to run the bright LED with the driver circuit, and run a small red LED with a resistor. It isn't that efficient, but if the current is low, it does not make that much difference.

 

[at4rxj]

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying Harry.

I would like to run the white led's alone, and the red led alone.

A light I have that comes to mind is the twintask form streamlight. One switch. Click it, the led's come on. Click again, they go off. Click again, the incan comes on. Click again, it's off.

I could use that basic principle, except that it would be white and red led's vs led's and incan.

 

[HarryN]

Ok - let's do a specific example. What specific battery and LED setup are you thinking about ?

3 x NiMH C cells ? , etc.

Which LEDs - K2s, MC-Es ?

Once this is picked, we can figure out the rest with a specific wiring example.

 

[at4rxj]

I haven't started buying anything, so the batteries can still be determined. If you give me an example, though, using 2 or 3 c or d size, I can go from there.

Probably the luxeon III red you mentioned, and then 3 xre's. None of that is set in stone, either.

 

[HarryN]

Thanks - let's go from there.

Assuming

White LEDs
- 3 x single die, power LEDs like a K2 TFFC or Cree equivalent. (Cree is fine, I just know the Lumileds products better so I will use them in the example)
- Capable of substantial output from 1,000 ma - 1,500, sometimes pushed harder
- Vf approx 3.5 - 4 volts, depending on drive current
- The single die package will make it easier to focus for throw if you want that, or defocus for more of a flood beam.

Red LED
- Lux III Red or red orange
- Capable of substantial output from 500 - 1,500 ma
- I have a light with this in red/orange, set at 1,000 ma, and it will shine right through your eyelids, but remarkably, still preserve some night vision.
- Vf approx. 2.2 - 3 volts, depending on drive current

2 or 3 cell NiMH C of D cells
- Drive the 3 white LEDs in series with a boost driver at 1,000ma or so. Hook this up to one on/off switch.

- Run the red LED either in direct drive mode (2 cells) or with a 2 ohm resistor (3 cells) with its own switch. I know this is not optimum, but it actually will be pretty efficient. It is easy to bench test this setup and determine if you are happy with it before building up the light.

It might be possible to find a double pole switch that will throw both circuits at the same time. (one off, one on)

On my home built light called "Breeze", I set it up pretty much just like this except for one white LED and one (small) red LED. There were some difference though, so the switch I used will not work for you.

 

[at4rxj]

Run the red LED either in direct drive mode (2 cells) or with a 2 ohm resistor (3 cells) with its own switch.


It might be possible to find a double pole switch that will throw both circuits at the same time. (one off, one on)

Thank you for doing that. I haven't searched yet, and will, but I'm not sure how to add another switch to the maglite. I was hoping to do it with one. Do you know if there is a switch I can replace the mag one with that will do this?
I was hoping to find a driver that would do that for me.

 

[HarryN]

You might be able to find a 3 position switch that can do this instead of two. Look at newak, mouser, and digikey for ideas.

There might be a driver like you are asking about, but I have looked before and have never seen one.

The main values for a driver are the potential to use battery supply voltages that are significantly different that your "real need" efficiently, and to maintain a constant current to the LED.

Your battery voltages are relatively close the the red LED, and the current change is not so great that you will easily see it during most of the battery life.

The saving grace here is that the red Lux III led has low Vf and can operate well over a very wide current. It is a much larger die size than the white K2, so it will not have as much throw. It is sort of like a 3/4 ton 4 x 4 pickup truck - it will keep going no matter what. In fact, it will keep going long after the batteries cannot power the white LED anymore.

 

[old4570]

KaiDomain.com has a 2 level output driver .

I put mine into a SAIK SA-8 when the original controller board died .
Im happy with it , its 17 mm DIA ...
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1801
:wave:

 

[VegasF6]

Take a look at the CC5W dual output here:
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=27&pg=2

And a 3 way switch. I think that is what you are after?

 

[at4rxj]

I think that driver would work with the regular switch if I'm reading correctly. I don't know that it outputs enough power, though. Is there some kind of booster I could wire in that could use this driver board as a switch of sorts and have the power directly connected? Kind of like a relay?

Direct link to the board.
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut885