2 x AA Seoul Z Flashlight

FlashCrazy said:
Saw this on Dae's website, anyone have it or know anything about it? I just ordered one, so I guess I'll find out soon enough...

http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/ultrafirereg-2xaa-flashlight-601a-seoul-zled-regulated-p-433.html?osCsid=973fded357b0afe450ddecea7cc7f036

Nice enough - too bright for really close stuff.

Not very good beamshots - beige roof about 50" away. LHS is ZLED, RHS Minimag 3xAA LED. The Zled is not nearly as blue as my phonecam makes it seem. Both photos are also somewhat out of focus - phonecams and shaky hands do not make for good beamshots.
DSC00137.jpg



Beige wall 32" away, again Minimag 3xAA LED and ZLED. Minimag on left this time.
DSC00136.jpg

It really does not appear that angry blue to my eyes and these photos make the beam look a lot worse than it is.

It is a good bit shorter than the minimag, probably about half an inch plus an AA shorter. Mine lives in a toolbag and is used a lot more than the minimags though, as you can see, it isn't as bright as the 3AA. It doesn't get noticeably hot even when using it for several hours. I seem to remember that some old 2300mAh NiMH cells ran it for well over two hours before there was noticeable drop in brightness.

I like it
 
dulridge, thank you very much! Great info, and you went above and beyond by posting pics! Nice to see that it has good run time. Is the LED easy to get to? If so, does it have a star board in it?

Looks like you like the light, that's good news. Thanks again for the info! :goodjob:
 
It does use a star and it is easily accessible. However, changing it may be tricky (Or may not - I'm happy with it the way it is) as the head comes off just below the knurling rather than at its base and the star is recessed nearly an inch in the head which wouuld make soldering the wires onto the star tricky though not impossible. I am in the process of uploading some pics which may help. Since the star is connected by two wires, it may be that it needs to be electrically isolated from the body - a good blob of heatsink compound should see to that.

The star is held on by two screws - it would be a good idea to strongly magnetise your crosshead screwdriver first. The magnets out of old hard drives are excellent for this purpose.

I have a rather pronounced tremor in my hands which I first noticed when I was 12 so have lived with it for 35 years and while it hasn't ever stopped me from doing anything I wanted to (other than TIG welding), it does make fiddly soldering tricky.

This image is with the "head" removed. The reflector just drops out, it isn't glued down or anything
DSC00139.jpg


With the reflector out (as well as the focus!) The only reason I left this pic in is that it shows the depth better than the in focus one below.
DSC00140.jpg


A nice pic of my knees :)
DSC00141.jpg


I've no idea if it uses any sort of driver circuit or a resistor - I just use it.

I just measured the current draw from it - it is pulling 875mA from the pair of elderly 1600mAh NiMH cells in it which measure 2.58V off-load as I've not the patience to figure out how to measure the voltage under load. This means it is pulling something like 2.58 x 0.875 = 2.26W from the cells, and presumably a bit less being put into the LED.

If you've any more questions I'll do my best to answer them
 
Thanks again for the info, dulridge!! Great stuff...can't think of any other questions. Thorin693, thanks for your input too! I guess I'll have the light in a couple of weeks.
 
Vikas Sontakke said:
Shouldn't this light be brighter than MagLED 3AA?

- Vikas

The Seoul LED in this is not the latest XR-E LED but an older variety.

With freshly charged NiMH cells on my photographic meter, the Seoul LED is brighter. This did surprise me - the cells in the light when I did the beamshots must have been rather low on charge.
 
I've no idea if it uses any sort of driver circuit or a resistor - I just use it.

I just measured the current draw from it - it is pulling 875mA from the pair of elderly 1600mAh NiMH cells in it which measure 2.58V off-load as I've not the patience to figure out how to measure the voltage under load. This means it is pulling something like 2.58 x 0.875 = 2.26W from the cells, and presumably a bit less being put into the LED.
It would have to be using a boost circuit. 2 NiMH cells will be under three volts -- too low to operate the LED direct-drive. If there were 3 NiMH Cells or a LiIon, so that the battery voltage is greater than the ~3.6V across the LED, then there would be a chance of it being a direct drive light with just a resistor.
 
I have a rather pronounced tremor in my hands which I first noticed when I was 12 so have lived with it for 35 years and while it hasn't ever stopped me from doing anything I wanted to (other than TIG welding), it does make fiddly soldering tricky.

Alas, me as well. At least we have been great humanitarians by NOT becoming brain or open heart surgeons, right? hehe....
 
i bough this light about a year ago from Dae, and I was pretty disappointed. Compared to the 602A, which i bought at the same time, it's just whimpy.
mine had an old ZLED inside, according to the bin it was something around ~40 lumens and it had a baaad color shift.
there seems to be a simple voltage regulated boost circuit inside.

build quality and finish are okay, but not overwhelming. its walls are rather thin, and the anodizing is a shiny maglite-type (what's that? I? II?).

at least it has a glass lens, o-rings and a relatively deep (plastic) reflector, might be a nice host for a new SSC P4. should be easy to do.

but there seem to be BIG differences in Ultrafire's flashlights. the original 602A for instance is built like a tank compared to this one.
 
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