250 Lumen Cree R2 "Drop-in" for the M3

[Policetacteam]

Ok...so while we're on the topic of legoing the M3 head...will it fit on a M2 body? This thread is very cool. I may need to just buy a whole new M3. I have kind of always wanted one and this is a great excuse for purchasing one!

 

[Justin Case]

The Z46 bezel from an M3 most likely won't fit on the M2, without some sort of adapter. The M2 uses the classic threading from the 6P, as indicated by the fact that it can use the KT1 TurboHead. The M3 uses Millennium threading, as indicated by the fact that its TH upgrade is the KT4.

An update on the output of the P91 lamp when driven by 2xAW17670 Li-ions in a SureFire 6P host plus Solarforce extension tube and using a UCL window -- 466 lumens on startup. The M3's MN11 lamp should perform similarly. If you want to stick with the M3's form factor, then use 2xIMR16340 cells (though you sacrifice run time vs the bigger 17670s -- probably about 10 min vs 30 min, as I had calculated in an earlier post in this thread).

Now that I think about it, it may be possible to take an AW Turbo Tower, and cut it down to the right height to emulate an MN11 lamp assembly. From the wide flange down, an MN11 looks the dimensionally same as something like the MN21. I will check this out tomorrow. If this is the case, then cutting down an AW tower should work, and that would allow you to build an LED tower that can run in the stock Z46 bezel of the M3. You could run emitters like a Seoul P4, Luxeon K2, or even a Cree MC-E.

 

[donn_]

Now that I think about it, it may be possible to take an AW Turbo Tower, and cut it down to the right height to emulate an MN11 lamp assembly. From the wide flange down, an MN11 looks the dimensionally same as something like the MN21. I will check this out tomorrow. If this is the case, then cutting down an AW tower should work, and that would allow you to build an LED tower that can run in the stock Z46 bezel of the M3. You could run emitters like a Seoul P4, Luxeon K2, or even a Cree MC-E.

It would take more than simply shortening the tower.

On top is an AW Turbo Tower with a K2TFFC emitter.

On the bottom is a Turbo Tower with Rebel 100, built specifically for the M3 reflector assembly.

As you can see, the M3 tower is not only shorter, but substantially narrower, in order to pass through the reduced aperture of the M3 reflector. It's necked down twice, to provide a path for the wiring to the emitter.

To use a larger emitter, like the P4 or MC-E, you'd have to enlarge the aperture on the M3 reflector, as well as shorten the tower.

 

[Justin Case]

Yeah, the problem is that the Z46 bezel necks down the reflector opening and the narrower opening is big enough to fit only the small bulb of the MN11 lamp assembly.

Here is a KT4 TurboHead on the left and a Z46 bezel on the right. The initial openings for both are the same, but the Z46 then necks down.

SureFire MN11 on the left, N62 in the middle, and AW Turbo Tower with 2S2P MC-E on the right. Note the skinny glass bulb for the MN11 compared to the larger bulb on the N62. Also note that the black aluminum base for the MN11 and N62 are the same diameter. Thus, as donn_ says, if you open up the necked section of the Z46 bezel to the same diameter as the upper section, a cut-down AW Turbo Tower should work.

 

[donn_]

Someone opened up the aperture of an M3 reflector, for a Turbo Tower. I just read it recently, but for the life of me, I can't find it now.

 

[Justin Case]

I have this black anodized turbo tower to match the look of the MN11.

 

[Thundar]

Soooo, I've been using my Cree R2 at work for about a month and it just stopped working. I know the LED is getting power because it illuminates very faintly when the tailcap is depressed. The LED isn't putting out enough light to reflect any observable reflection from the reflector, but you can see that it is on by looking directly at the LED. It started doing this a few days ago, and after taking the head off and manipulating the small spring, it would light up as normal. Now, I can't get it to light up. I've tried both my rechargeable batteries and my standard 123's and I get the same slight illumination.

Has my LED burned out or is there a solution?

 

[Justin Case]

This is for a Lumens Factory LED module for the M3? And you used a magnetic spacer? Any chance that the spacer moved and shorted the inner and outer spring connections (I assume that the LF module has these -- I'm not familiar with the specific product)? I'd contact LH or LF and ask them what sorts of features their driver has, esp short circuit protection.

Can you smell anything burnt?

Can you measure the current draw at the tail?

If you are up to it, you probably can partially disassemble the module, assuming it is built like the usual P60 drop-in. Unscrew the pill. Desolder the driver LED- wire from the LED. Hook up a DMM in series with the LED- side of the driver (one DMM probe to the LED- wire from the driver, the other DMM probe to the LED- side of the LED) and put the DMM into amps mode. Apply power to the driver. Check the current output displayed on the DMM. Presumably, the current output from a working driver should be around 1A.

 

[Thundar]

Yes, I have the LumensFactory LED module and a magnetic spacer.

The magnetic spacer did not touch the side - it's rounded edge is covered with electrical tape and each time the illumination would drop I checked the battery configuration to ensure the magnet was secure.

There is no burnt smell.

I am not able to check the current at the tailcap or check the output on the DMM.

Can these LED modules burn out? I'm running 2 AW IMR 16340's with a dummy cell behind them. Could these have had too much amperage or something?

 

[Thundar]

If the LED is burnt out, I was thinking about trying a high output incan lamp as I recently ordered another LED module for a 3D maglite that will have good runtime so I will only use the M3 for clearing rooms and the like.

Which is a better incan lamp: the MN11, the LumensFactory HO-M3, or LumensFactory EO-M3?
Are these all pretty sturdy?
Are there any other options that I missed?

BTW: As this will probably come up, I lost the MN11 lamp that came with the light so would have to order it.

 

[Thundar]

Just spoke with Lighthound where I ordered the LED. They said the battery setup shouldn't have blown the light. They said they've gotten a few D36's back and that they might have had a bad batch.

 

[Thundar]

After all of my posts regarding not using the MN11 lamp due to it's low runtime, I may use it now. Initially, I used my M3 as my primary patrol light (and therefore needed long runtime) but now have more lights to use for different purposes on duty. I have a 220 Lumen Terralux for general use where I don't need extreme illumination. I got a new NiMH stick for my old SL20X (which will likely be a backup light that stays in my patrol car). I am also upgrading a 3D maglite with a 2100 Lumen ElektroLumens LED drop-in with NiMH D cell rechargeables. I will primarily use my M3 for building clearing due to it's high output and ease of use while holding my pistol. BTW: I blame this forum and all of you for my relapse in my flashlight buying addiction (I can stop anytime, of course). I may have to start a 12 step program...

Back to the M3... I'm using 2 of the AW IMR 16340's with a dummy 123 cell. From what I've read, the EO or HO-M3 lamps put out by Lumens Factory actually have less output than the MN11 lamp, so I think I'll go with the MN11. I wish I hadn't accidentally thrown out the one that originally came with the light, oops. Lighthound advised me that they can credit me for the malfunctioning LED (which will give me enough to get a MN11 lamp from them).

 

[Thundar]

OK, I'm trying to put the MN10 (& MN11) reflector back in, but can't get it back in the shock isolation foam piece that loops around inside the head. The foam has started to tear in different places now. Every time I try to push the reflector inside of the foam the foam either bows in so that the reflector is above the foam and the foam donuts downwards, or the reflector is at an angle and one side begins to donut downward. I literally struggled with it for 2 hours yesterday.

I thought about putting glue on the outside of the foam, maneuvering the foam in place and letting the glue dry before attempting to put the reflector in. I'm concerned with the combination of heat and the glue, however...

Any ideas on how to get this in?

 

[Thundar]

Just realized I've kind of hijacked this thread... I'll restart on another thread still in the Homemade and Modified Lights section. Thanks for all of the help you have already provided.

 

[Superdave]

Just an FYI for anyone doing this mod, it is (or was for me) extremely easy to remove the M3's bezel ring.

I set the bezel onto a 2x4, crown down, then set another small block of wood on the back side. A few taps with a hammer sunk the crenelations into the 2x4. I then pushed down and twisted at the same time. Ring was 100% un-damaged and everything came out perfectly.


and, now to wait another week or 2 for my LF D36 module to arrive :sigh:

 

[Sgt. LED]

Cool, I bet the hammering helped weaken the Loktite too. Good job.

 

[Superdave]

Thanks

there was a little bit of residue in the threads but not as much as i've seen from SF in the past. I might try this with my M6 today as well. 🙂

 

[BugOutGear_USA]

FYI,

I just did this mod on my M3 today and wanted to let everyone know that you can remove the bezel quite easily with one of those watch back removal tools (purchased at Wal-mart for $5-$6).

What is everyone using as a spacer for the D36 module since it is slightly to short to make proper contact?

Regards,
Flavio

 

[donn_]

I use insulated rare earth magnets.

 

[houtex]

Have to bring this thread back up....

I got the LF D-36 led drop-in today and am currently trying to install it.
I got the head open and everything apart but I cannot get the LF to sit properly on the head. Worst yet, I tore the foam sponge strip.:mecry:

What can I do?!?!?!any idaes please.